Church of our Lord of Tila

Balancán is a small city of about 14,000 people (2020) in the Mexican state of Tabasco in the Yucatán Peninsula. The town saw upheaval and conflict through the colonial era with the local Maya community resisting Spanish invaders. Outsiders meet a considerably warmer reception today and the town is a good stop for eco-travelers interested in the region's many rainforests as well as travelers exploring Maya civilization who will want to visit the Moral Reforma archaeological zone and the Museo José Gómez Panaco in town.

Understand

Balancán (officially known as Balancán de Domínguez, though nobody outside the government actually uses the long name) is a colonial era city with Mayan flavor.

History

The local area was originally settled by the Maya around the 5th century AD, when it was known as Tatahuitalpan. Hernan Cortes visited the town in 1525 but the locals had burned the town to the ground and fled when they got word of the approaching Spanish forces. Another Spanish expedition in 1529 was repulsed by the Maya and any Spaniards who survived fled the area. The Mayas rebuilt the town in 1530 at its current site. Spanish expeditions in the 16th and early 17th century were similarly unsuccessful. It would not be until 1671 that the Spanish would exert control over the area.

The town saw violence again during the Mexican Revolution when federal troops tried to occupy Balancan. The city was defended by rebel troops under the leadership of Colonel Jose Dominguez. The town's official name is a tribute to the good Colonel.

Get in

By bus

From Villahermosa it is a 2-1/2 trip to Balancan with Autobuses TRT, which operates 3 buses per day on the route. Autobuses ATS operates two daily buses from Campeche and Escarcega. It is 2-1/2 hours to Balancan from Escarcega and tickets cost about M$200.

• 1 Bus station, Leona Vicario. Small bus station. 

By combi

Combis (colectivos) are commonly used to get to nearby towns or tourist destinations.

• 2 Transportes Jaguar, Gregorio Mendez 506, Centro, ☏ +52 934 104 5675. 05:30 - 19:30. Service to multiple local destinations in large Toyota vans. Often unreliable. (updated Dec 2023)

Get around

The town is fairly small but generally stretches out along the Usamacinta River, so distances can be fairly long. A bike is a better choice for getting around in town. Taxis are a necessity for getting to outlying areas like the Moral Reforma archaeological site.

See

Many of the sites that make Balancan worth a visit by foreign travelers are in the countryside a few kilometers outside of town. For this destination, it is worth considering sites to be either "in town" or "nearby". You'll want to hire a taxi or rent a car or motorbike to visit the "nearby" sites.

In town

• 1 Parque Central (Zocalo), Independencia 103, Centro. The town's main plaza is a focal point for the community with benches, walkways, a large kiosk, and a water fountain. Adjacent to the town hall and the main church (San Marcos). (updated Dec 2023)

• 2 Museo José Gómez Panaco, Zaragoza 716. Daily 08:00 - 13:00. Small regional museum focused on the history and culture of the local Maya community. The museum has more than 1,000 artifacts in its collection, most relics from local Maya sites like the well-known Moral Reforma, but also from lesser known sites that are not open to the public (Santa Elena and Aguada Fenix). Free. (updated Dec 2023)

• 3 Parroquia San Marcos (St. Mark's Church), Melchor Ocampo 609, Centro. Main church in Balancan. (updated Dec 2023)

Nearby

• 4 Iglesia del Señor de Tila (Church of our Lord of Tila), Carratera a Balancan, Ejido Leona Vicario. One of the most stunningly visual churches in all of Mexico, a veritable explosion of colors. Each swath of color represents a miracle (or an instance of the miracle of love). (updated Dec 2023)

Do

• Explore the Moral-Reforma Maya archaeological site
• See the rivers and rainforests at the Wanha´ Biosphere Reserve

Festivals

• Sunflower festival - held in June, includes many events in the town square including the popular pocho dance

Moral-Reforma archaeologal site

The "Double Pyramid", Building 14 at Moral Reforma

Stela depicting Moral Reforma's king, Wo Chan Kawil

Moral Reforma is one of the many ancient Mayan cities that remain off the radar of most travelers (and even most archaeologists). The ruins are more than 2,000 years old and possibly established around 300-250 BC. It was once under the dominion of Calakmul, but around 600 AD, fell under the domainion of Palenque. The site's architecture has elements of both Puuc and Rio Bec styles.

The site is operated by Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH). In the early 2020s INAH received a large funding increase to upgrade visitor facilities at Mayan sites near the route of the new Tren Maya railway, being built to improve transportation throughout the region. One of INAH's projects was to better explore, restore, and upgrade the Moral-Reforma site. During their work in early 2023, archaeologists discovered a large ceremonial burial site beneath a pyramid known as Structure 18. Human remains of 13 young men were recovered. The bones were determined to be more than 2,000 years old (dated to around 250 BC). Skulls showed signs of ritual decapitation. Anthropologists believe the young men were sacrificed as part of the dedication of the new temple.

About 7 buildings have been explored and restored. Building 14 is the site's most impressive structure. It's known as the "Double Pyramid" because it is two pyramids, built side-by-side, each with its own staircase. The site also has a restored ballcourt and several restored temples and platforms. There are a number of visible mounds that obviously hide other structures so it is likely that the site will grow in significance as it is explored and developed by INAH.

• 1 Moral Reforma Archaeological Zone, El Juncal, Balancán. Daily 09:00 - 17:00. One of the least visited Mayan sites. You are likely to be the only visitor, though INAH staff are on site. There is a parking lot and restrooms, but limited facilities. Bring your own water, sunscreen, and mosquito spray. There is no nearby town. A small waterfall, Cascada de la Reforma Moral is about 500 meters from the archaeological site. Free. (updated Dec 2023)

Wanha´ Biosphere Reserve

In 2023, the Mexican government announced that it was creating a new Biosphere Reserve that would comprise the river systems and wetlands in the state of Tabasco near Balancan and Tenosique. The new biosphere reserve protects an area of 38,255 hectares along the San Pedro River. The reserve protects mangrove, tular, reed, cypress and many bird species such as elegant eagle, mallard and yellow-headed parrot, among others. The reserve includes ecosystems such as high evergreen, high or medium subevergreen forests, and hydrophilic vegetation (the habitat of more than 892 species of flora and fauna, with a high diversity of aquatic birds). The ecosystem is unique in the world because the swamps are in a river system far from the sea, it is the world's furthest inland mangrove swamp (120 kilometers from the coast).

Eat

• 1 Restaurante Sagitario, Simon Sarlat S/N, Centro, ☏ +52 934 344 0629. M-Sa 08:00 - 23:00. Bright, colorful, clean, family-friendly place serving traditional Mexican cuisine. Eggs, sweet breads, omelletes in the morning, tortas, chicken and seafood in the evening. Credit cards accepted. (updated Dec 2023)
• 2 Mi Casa Cafe, Emiliano Zapata,, ☏ +52 934 129 9998. Daily 15:00 - 02:00. Fresh brewed coffee, capuccino, latte and other coffee drinks. Light fare such as crepes and bakery treats. (updated Dec 2023)
• 3 Como Dice el Dicho, Porfirio Díaz 417, San Joaquin, ☏ +52 934 344 1712. Daily 07:00 - 22:00. Coffee, breakfast, and light food. The panuchos are recommended. (updated Dec 2023)

Sleep

• 1 Girasoles Hotel, Av. Luis Donaldo Colosio, ☏ +52 934 348 4837. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic hotel, has air conditioned rooms. (updated Dec 2023)
• 2 Hotel Balam Ku, Eusebio Castillo. 202, ☏ +52 934 690 2838. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Clean, comfortable rooms with TV, WiFi, A/C. M$500. (updated Dec 2023)
• 3 Hotel las Delicias, Calle Marina Nacional S/N esquina con, La Salud, El Carmen, ☏ +52 934 344 0033. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Bare bones budget hotel with tidy rooms but many lapses in maintenance. Check TV and AC before accepting the room because they often don't work. M$900. (updated Oct 2024)

Connect

Cell coverage exists in Balancan but is 4G and it drops quickly if you get out of town toward the archaeological sites or go towards El Triunfo.

Go next

• Tenosique
• Palenque
• Ocosingo