Berchtesgaden
- See also Berchtesgaden National Park.
Berchtesgaden is a small, picturesque and historic town (population 7,700 in 2019) in the southeast of the German state of Bavaria, within a small enclave surrounded on three sides by the Austrian border. The town lies some 30 km south of the Austrian city of Salzburg and some 180 km south-east of Munich.
Understand
[edit]The town is in a valley at 500 to 1,100 m altitude in the south-eastern part of the German Alps and is surrounded by high mountains called Untersberg in the north, Obersalzberg in the east and further south by the Watzmann. Berchtesgaden and neighbouring Bad Reichenhall are famous for their salt mines. The production of table salt guaranteed in the medieval ages a safe source of revenue, and it still does today. Therefore, a visit to the salt mine of Berchtesgaden is definitely on the to do list.
In the 20th century, the name of Berchtesgaden became well known to the general public for more unfortunate reasons: the Nazi dictator of Germany, Adolf Hitler, had his summer getaway on the peak in a complex of buildings known as the Berghof at Obersalzberg. A teahouse was built for him at the peak of the Kehlstein ridge above Obersalzberg, but he only visited it a couple of times. It is known in German as the Kehlsteinhaus, and was dubbed “The Eagle's Nest” by the occupying American forces after the war. All the buildings and bunkers of the Berghof were bombed at the end of World War II and nowadays a documentation centre can be found close to the place on the Obersalzberg. The Kehlsteinhaus is accessible via bus from Obersalzberg, and has now been converted to a restaurant.
Berchtesgaden has its fair share of tourism all around the year, and has retained its original charming character. House fronts around the market place, palace and elsewhere in Berchtesgaden are decorated with murals.
Local information
[edit]- Berchtesgaden town council website
Talk
[edit]Standard German is well understood in Bavaria; most local people, however, speak their local dialect between themselves. This being a tourist destination, English and French are often understood.
Get in
[edit]
By plane
[edit]International travellers wishing to visit Bavaria and Berchtesgaden should have no problems booking a flight to Munich, home to a large international airport. Alternatively, if there is no direct flight to Munich with your airline, you could book a flight via Frankfurt and travel to Munich with the ICE high speed train. Alternatively you can fly to Salzburg in Austria and travel then to Berchtesgaden via train (70 minutes) or bus (~40 minutes), both direct connections. The distances are only 20 km from Salzburg and about 190 km from Munich Airport. Crossing the German-Austrian border is no problem due to the Schengen Treaty.
By train
[edit]Berchtesgaden has a train station and is well connected to Munich and Frankfurt. From Austria, a train from Salzburg is likely the best option.
- 1 Berchtesgaden Main railway station (Berchtesgaden Hauptbahnhof), Bahnhofplatz 2.
By road
[edit]Driving from Munich on the A8 to Salzburg you find Berchtesgaden sign posted shortly before the Austrian border and it is another 20 km from there to Berchtesgaden. (If you travel in a hire car make sure that you pre-order winter equipment since most of the rental car companies in Germany provide you only with “summer wheels” which are most unsuitable in and around Berchtesgaden from October to April). Note also that in order to drive on a motorway in Austria it is necessary to purchase and display a 'vignette', or tax disk. These can be bought from roadside service stations.
Get around
[edit]The bus system in Berchtesgaden is as good as in the rest of Bavaria: buses run twice or once an hour and you can reach the outermost places with them. Be sure to get a timetable (”Busfahrplan“). As a guest in Berchtesgaden you have to pay a tourist-tax (”Kurtaxe“) which will give you a tourist-card (”Kurkarte“). With this card you can use most local buses for free and you also get a reduction for some public parking sites.
See
[edit]- 1 Documentation Centre (Dokumentationszentrum Obersalzberg), Salzbergstr. 41 (from Berchtesgaden main station, take bus 838 and alight at the stop “Dokumentation Obersalzberg”), ☏ +49 89 12688-0. Daily, 9AM – 5PM. Providing information on the use of the mountainside retreat by Nazi leaders, the museum was opened in 1999, and by 2007 had been visited by more than one million people. It sits on the foundation of the Hoher Göll guesthouse. There is also a link through a tunnel to the extended bunker complex at the demolished General Walker Hotel (former Platterhof), constructed in 1943–45. The exhibition covers the two floors of the main building and extends through the tunnel to the bunker. However, only a portion of it is dedicated to the history of the Obersalzberg itself, including a small section on the post-1945 era, when most of the area was used by the American military. The exhibition ends with a documentation of the Holocaust in the dark of the bunker. Only a part of the extensive shelter network is accessible today. Adults €3.
- 2 Kehlsteinhaus (The Eagle's Nest). At 1,834 m altitude on top of the Kehlstein hill, it provides a marvellous and unforgettable view over the eastern Alps. You can reach it by foot or public bus; it is not accessible by car. The Kehlsteinhaus was built as a present for Hitler on his 50th birthday, although he visited very rarely. The 6.5-km approach road with bridges and tunnels climbing 800 m of altitude until the parking lot, the hillside footpath, the 124-m tunnel leading to the 124-m elevator shaft, and the house itself are all tremendous feats of engineering, even more interesting as a historical site because all the structures remain very original. At the end of the war, the famed American 101st Airborne Division took control of the house, and it was spared from the destruction suffered by other Nazi leadership buildings in the area, although most of the furniture and artifacts were looted. Tickets for this attraction can be purchased at the Documentation Centre, and the buses depart from there as well.
- 3 Königssee (5 km south). The deepest lake in the Alps, surrounded by very steep mountain that raise up 2,000 m above the lake level. You can make a boat trip to the other side of the lake to visit the world famous 4 Kloster St. Bartolomä
, the smaller lake 5 Obersee and enjoy the wildlife of the national park. Hiking is very popular in summer and tours around the lake are sign posted. Routes are prepared by the "Deutsche Alpenverein" and they indicate usually how long it takes to get to your destination, and how difficult they are. One of the possible targets is the 6 Landtalbach waterfall, in a valley above Obersee. 
Lake Konigsee 2006 . - 7 Jenner Mountain (on the east side of the Königssee). Due to the cable car, it's an easy ride to an excellent view over the Berchtesgaden valley.
- The Hintersee is a small lake in nearby Ramsau b. Berchtesgaden.
- 8 Berchtesgaden Salt Mine. It is one of the two saltmines in the Salzberg. The other one is on the Austrian side. The oldest active salt mine in Germany, since 13th century. The tour takes the visitors on a mini-rail and boat ride, as well as showcasing various techniques used for the mining.
- 9 Rossfeld panoramic road (5 km from Berchtesgaden and 1600 m high). This is where was filmed the final scene of the classic The Sound Of Music movie, a very beautiful spot for skiing, or walks in the sunshine and above the clouds. There are several restaurants that offer local food at reasonable pricing and you can rest there and take a bath in the sun on chairs that are provided on a rental bases. The Rossfeld can be reached via a toll road or by bus. The toll road is very well maintained and free of snow and ice all around the year.
- 10 Obersalzbergbahn. It is the second, smaller cable car in Berchtesgaden and will bring you onto the Obersalzberg but not upon its top. The upper station you can enjoy a summer bob sledding run.
Do
[edit]Despite being in a remote location, Berchtesgaden and nearby Königsee possess world class sport facilities. The bobsleigh run (Bobbahn) at Königssee is regular venue for world-cup races, but tourists also can run it down in guest-bobs. The ice arena (“Eishalle”) in Berchtesgaden is opened half the year and popular among locals and sportsmen from nearby Austria. There's a cheap combi-ticket for ice arena and “Watzmanntherme”. The Therme is just a few meters away and probably unmatched for being embedded in a spectacular scenic landscape, surrounded by mountains and snow caped peaks and features as giant action whirl pool, hydro massage facilities, salt water pools, 80m slide with light and sound effects www.watzmann-therme.de.
Around Berchtesgaden are several slopes for skiing such as Golf and Ski am Obersalzberg, Götschen, Rossfeld and Jenner. First one is fitted for beginners, the Jenner is for advanced skiers. There are also several runs for cross-country skiing and very advanced skiers might be interested in ski touring in the Berchtesgaden Alps. From late January on sunny weather is common but the risk of avalanches is rising.
If you stay in Berchtesgaden you will have significant reduction of most entrance fees via the “Kurtaxe”.
- Wilderness trail
- Horse drawn sleigh in Berchtesgaden, Germany 2005
Eat
[edit]- See also: Bavarian cuisine
You will find plenty of nice and original Bavarian restaurants as well as Greek, Chinese, Turkish and Italian restaurants. The pricing in most places is modest by German standards and international visitors will often view that as a bargain. Obviously being in Bavaria and in the middle of the alps you should try the local specialities such as Knödel, Schweinehaxe, wild deer (very seldom), Bratwurst, Leberkase, Weisswurst, Kartoffelsalat, Gulasch Bratkartoffeln, Kaiserschmarn, fish - and lots of more things.
Budget
[edit]Mid-range
[edit]- 5 Braustüberl Berchtesgaden, Brauhausstraße 13, ☏ +49 8652-976724. This is local beer brewery and a possibility to taste Berchtesgadener beer.
- 6 Gasthaus Bier-Adam, Marktplatz 22, ☏ +49 8652-2390. If you like to enjoy dinner in a smoke free atmosphere go here.
- 7 Gasthof Goldener Bär, Weihnachtsschützenplatz 4, ☏ +49 8652-2590. Good local food, a bit smoky though.
- Berggaststätte Kehlsteinhaus, 1.834 m 83471 Berchtesgaden Obersalzberg, ☏ +49 8652-2969.
Splurge
[edit]- 8 Gourmet Restaurant PUR, Hintereck 1.
Sweet
[edit]- Café Lockstein Am Lockstein 1 83471 Berchtesgaden +49(0)8652/2122. Probably the best view over Berchtesgaden
Drink
[edit]Bavarians love their beer and one of the most beloved is the wheat beer (Weißbier). It is a cloudy, unfiltered beer commonly consumed earlier in the day with a Weißwurst and sweet mustard. In the cold wintertime it is nice to finish your dinner with a local “Schnaps” from the Enzian Brauerei Grassl. It makes you feel nice and warm after a long day out on slopes.
Sleep
[edit]There is a good range of accommodation ranging from budget to moderately expensive. Many local people enjoy “bed and breakfast” for a very good price. You can spot those places by searching for the signs that read “Zimmer frei” or “Zimmer zu vermieten”, or use the web link from Berchtesgadener Land. In the last years holiday flats became very popular, you will find them via “Ferienwohnung”.
Mid-range
[edit]- Treff Alpenhotel Kronprinz Berchtesgaden, am Brandholz. Near the city center.
Splurge
[edit]- Hotel InterContinental Resort Berchtesgaden, situated high above Berchtesgaden on the Obersalzberg. The hotel is a modern building and offers rooms and suites for up to €2500/day and is therefore Berchtesgaden's most expensive place to sleep.
- Hotel Edelweiss Berchtesgaden, Maximilianstraße 2, 83471 Berchtesgaden, ☏ +49 8652-97990, info@edelweiss-berchtesgaden.com.
Stay safe
[edit]- Berchtesgaden is thankfully largely free of crime, mugging or travel scams.
- Avalanches can occur in remote areas when the temperature rises in February till April and at steep slopes above 30%. The Lawinenlagebericht will give you detailed information: level 3 and higher is dangerous but you should always have a local guide with you.
- Having lots of snow on a road with 15% slope can be dangerous.
Go next
[edit]- Schönau a.Königssee
- Bad Reichenhall
- Munich (3 hours by train)
- Salzburg home of Mozart (1 hour by train)
- Berchtesgaden National Park