Cieszyn is a town in the Silesian Voivodeship of southern Poland, with of population of 33,500 in 2021. It stands on the River Olza on the Czech border.

Český Těšín a short walk west is now a separate town in the Czech Republic.

Understand

Cieszyn historically straddled the River Olza but for over a century has been partitioned by the border. This region was under Hapsburg / Austrian rule until the end of the First World War, when Poland regained independence and the river became the border with Czechoslovakia. The two sides were forcibly re-united under Nazi occupation, but after the Second World War the border was restored. The Schengen Agreement has made this an open border, facilitating trade and transport with what is now the Czech Republic.

Get in

By train

From Katowice trains run every couple of hours via Tychy to Goleszów, heading for Wisła in the mountains. Change at Goleszów for the short branch line to Cieszyn, with a total journey of 1 hr 45 min.

Five trains a day are direct from Czechowice-Dziedzice on the line between Katowice and Bielsko-Biała, taking just over a hour.

1 Cieszyn railway station is north side of old town, with the bus station adjacent.

Trains run hourly from Frýdek-Místek in the Czech Republic via Dobratice pod Prasiv, Horni Tosanovice, Hnojnik and Ropice to Český Těšín, 40 min. Here they either terminate, or sit for 5-10 minutes before trundling across the border to Cieszyn. It's usually quicker to get off at Český Těšín and walk over the river bridge.

Trains also run every 30 min from Ostrava via Bohumin to Český Těšín, 35 min, and continue to various destinations including Kosice in Slovakia.

2 Český Těšín railway station is on Nádražní in the centre of that town.

By bus

From Kraków Flixbus 1369 runs once in the evening, taking 3 hours via Katowice.

Wispol Bus 52 runs hourly from Koniaków via Wisła and Goleszów, taking an hour. Bus W3 runs every couple of hours from Szczyrk via Wisła.

Other buses from around the region are from Ustroń, Brenna and Strumień.

June-Aug Bus W1 runs three days a week from Kołobrzeg on the Baltic coast, taking 12 hours overnight via Poznań and Katowice.

Cieszyn bus station is next to the railway station.

Get around

The town sights are close enough to be reached on foot.

See

St Nicholas Chapel

• 1 Rynek is the attractive town square, lined by fine houses and Ratusz the Town Hall.
• Museum of Cieszyn Silesia (Muzeum Śląska Cieszyńskiego), Tadeusza Regera 6 (block southeast of Rynek), ☏ +48 33 851 2933. Tu, Th-Su 10:00-14:00, W 12:00-16:00. Fascinating museum with especially good photo collection in the former Larisch palace. This bling mansion was built after the great fire, becoming the mayor's residence from the 1840s then a museum from 1931. It was gutted by fire in 1941 but re-opened in 1969. Adult 60 zł. (updated Jul 2024)
• Church of St Mary Magdalene is a short block south of Rynek on Plac Dominikański. It was built around 1300, and re-built in Baroque / classical style after the great city fire of 1789. Rulers of Cieszyn are interred in the crypt.
• 2 Cieszyn Castle, Zamkowa 3, ☏ +48 33 851 0821. Daily 10:00-17:00. An early medieval castle on this hill became a redoubt of the Piast dynasty in the 13th century. It was converted into a palace in the 16th century but was wrecked in the 17th. It was patched up in the 19th and nowadays houses a design centre. Its main surviving features are the Piast Tower, and the iconic 11th century rotunda of St Nicholas' Chapel, which featured on 20 zł banknotes. (updated Jul 2024)
• 3 Museum of Typography (Muzeum Drukarstwa), Głęboka 50, ☏ +48 508 200 248, muzeumdrukarstwa@o2.pl. M-Th 10:00-15:00, F 14:00-20:00, Sa Su 11:00-18:00. Cieszyn once housed the biggest printing press in the Hapsburg Empire. This exhibits printing and typography and conducts classes in related trades. Adult 10 zł. (updated Jul 2024)
• 4 Church of Jesus on Plac Kościelny is Lutheran. It was built 1710-30 with the tower added in 1750. It's usually open M Tu Th F.
• 5 Old Jewish Cemetery is a bosky atmospheric place at Hażlaska 39. It began in 1647 as a private burial plot for the Singer family, then was expanded and made available to others. The New Jewish Cemetery 100 m up the street lacks ambience.

Do

• 1 Adam Mickiewicz Theatre, Plac Teatralny 1, ☏ +48 33 857 7590. Town theatre named for Mickiewicz (1798-1855) the poet, dramatist and political activist. (updated Jul 2024)
• Film on the Border is a film festival in April, showing mostly Polish, Czech and Slovak work.
• No Border Festival is held between the twin towns over a week in early October.

Buy

Cieszyn in 1640

Several convenience stores near Rynek, including two branches of Żabka open M-Sa 06:00-23:00, Su 09:00-21:00.

Eat

• Places around Rynek include Lavash Bistro, Bazylia Pizza, Limonka, Kuma Sushi, Kamienica Konczakowskich, Mare Fuori and Winowajcy.

Drink

• Pubs around Rynek include Starówka, Nie ma problema, and Chill Island.
• Browar Zamkowy Cieszyn, Dojazdowa 2 (100 m north of castle), ☏ +48 338516402. Founded in the 19th century and still brewing by classic methods despite being part of the huge Heineken / Żywiec group. (updated Jul 2024)

Sleep

Rynek

• Pokoje Venezia, Przykopa 6 (south side of castle), ☏ +48 606 346 090. Clean rooms with kitchenette. Double (room only) 250 zł. (updated Jul 2024)
• 1 3 Bros’ Hostel, Mennicza 14, ☏ +48 539 064 539. Friendly hostel near the railway station. (updated Jul 2024)
• 2 Hotel Liburnia, Liburnia 10, ☏ +48 780 043 099. Inexpensive hotel north side of railway station. B&B double 300 zł. (updated Jul 2024)
• 3 Mercure Cieszyn, Motelowa 21, ☏ +48 33 851 6900. Clean efficient chain hotel near main highway, some facilities look tired. B&B double 400 zł. (updated Jul 2024)
• 4 Camping Pod Czarnym Bocianem, Aleja Jana Łyska 16, ☏ +48 532 787 950. Pleasant well-equipped camping and caravan site by the river 2 km south of town centre. 20 zł ppn. (updated Jul 2024)

Connect

As of July 2024, Cieszyn and its approach highways have 4G from all Polish carriers, and 5G from Czech carriers.

Go next

• Bielsko-Biała 40 km north is a resort town which like Cieszyn was once divided by a border, hence the double name.
• Nearby mountain resorts are Szczyrk, Wisła and Ustroń.
• Ostrava is a sprawling modern city in the Czech Republic, but with an attractive old centre.