Culturally significant landscape in Montoro
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The Culturally significant landscape in Montoro takes you through a particular natural and cultural interest. Original reference documents are available on the website of the Digital Guide to Andalusia’s Cultural Heritage.
The purpose of these routes is to help you understand the various ways in which people have related to and continue to relate to the place they call home, as well as how these interactions have given rise to various types of cultural landscapes. Not only do these landscapes contribute to the uniqueness of the area, they also represent examples of sustainable spatial development.
Understand
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The river descends to the echo of Lorca’s “green how I want you green”, |
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—Solano Márquez, F. (1976), A to Z of Córdoba’s Towns and Villages, Córdoba, Provincial Council. p. 324. | ||
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The municipality of Montoro is located in the eastern part of the province of Córdoba, where it borders the province of Jaén. Part of the comarca of Alto Guadalquivir and 42.6 km (26.5 mi) from the province’s capital Córdoba, it spans 584.84 km (363.40 mi) and is crossed by the A-4 motorway (Autovía del Sur) between 353 km (219 mi) and 366 km (227 mi), as well as the N-420 carriageway. Both the A-4 and N-420 have exits in Montoro. The municipality is linked to Córdoba by road and train, as well as by road to nearby towns and villages, such as Bujalance (via the A-309 ).
The landscape of Montoro is characterised by three main features: its mountains and foothills, open countryside, and the plain around the River Guadalquivir. The latter forms a natural border while also creating a truly unique and stunning landscape. The town, whose past has been shaped by the Iberians, Greeks, Romans and Moors, is perched on a small hill surrounded by and divided into two by the river. This offers a stunning sight when viewed from a distance.
Montoro is perched on the top of a 195-metre hill, surrounded on three sides by the River Guadalquivir. This strategic location has meant that different civilisations throughout history have sought to control the town, and thus communications between the Guadalquivir Valley and Sierra Morena. In addition to offering natural protection and a privileged site from which to control the surrounding area, Montoro’s location also meant easy access to water for its residents. As such, humans have inhabited the place that is now Montoro since the end of the Bronze Age (1200 BC to 700 BC). This led to the founding of a significant Ibero-Turdetani settlement, remains of which can be seen at the Llanete de los Moros archaeological site, located just by the current bullring.
The town underwent an extensive process of Romanisation, beginning at the end of the 3rd century BC, when it was known as Epora (meaning ‘someone that looks over something’ in Greek). As such, some historians have drawn a link between its name and strategic role as a stronghold overlooking the Guadalquivir. The signing of alliance treaties (foedera) with Rome during the Punic Wars led to Epora gaining the status of civitas foederata. Over the coming centuries, this would see it become an important stop on the Via Augusta. The Romanisation of Epora saw olives and grain become the driving force behind its economy. This led to the landscape around Montoro taking on a very characteristic appearance. Nowadays, extensive farming, hunting in the nearby mountains and the mining of copper and lead are also important sectors for the local economy.
The town’s layout was transformed during the Visigoth period and particularly under the Moors, conditioned by limited space and the unique terrain. Although historical sources are scarce, some surviving from the Visigoth period reveal that farms began to appear on the outskirts of the town from the Low Roman Empire onwards. In the 8th century, the town became known as Kántar-Estesan (reflecting the fact that it had a bridge), the town wall was rebuilt and an alcazaba (palatial fortification) was erected on the current site of Plaza de Santa María de la Mota. A few remains of the alcazaba can be seen today from the right bank of the Guadalquivir, where the river bends. Ferdinand III regained control of Montoro in 1240, but the Mudéjar would leave a lasting mark on the town. This can be seen in its esparto weaving, pottery, irrigation ditches and many fountains.
After its recapture by the Crown of Castile, the town was initially part of Córdoba, later being incorporated into the land owned by the Marquess of Carpio in 1660. In 1662, Philip IV granted Montoro the status of duchy and it became part of the House of Alba, which was responsible for regulating trades and taxes, including the alcabala (sales tax), as well as imparting justice and appointing magistrates and notaries.
Between the 16th and 18th centuries, the town grew with a series of emblematic public and religious buildings appearing. These formed the image and layout that we see today, and include the bridge Puente Mayor (also known as Puente de las Donadas), San Bartolomé Church, Casa Tercia and the many houses that once belonged to aristocratic families who had vast olive groves, vineyards and fields of grain.
During the 19th century, taking advantage of its strategic location, local soldiers successfully fought off attacks by Napoleon’s troops. As a result, in 1808 Montoro was awarded the title of Noble, Loyal and Patriotic City by Ferdinand VII.
Nowadays, the main driving force behind the local economy is olive farming. As such, it has 18,895 hectares of olive groves, which are used to produce high-quality olive oil, as well as 2285 hectares of fields used for dry and irrigated farming, mainly of wheat. As such, the town’s economy is essentially centred around agriculture, with 465 associated activities being recorded in 2022. This is followed at some distance by commercial activities and the production of goods using techniques such as esparto weaving. The town offers many views of the surrounding agrarian and natural landscape. However, the best views are to be had from the outskirts looking towards Montoro. From here, you will see the outline of the town set against the countryside, a common sight in the province of Córdoba and one which is included on the Register of Cultural Landscapes of Andalusia.
This route aims to show visitors the most characteristic features of the landscape in Montoro. This includes its urban and natural landscape, as well as how the two interact. The first part begins at the viewpoint known as Mirador del Imperio Romano (Viewpoint of the Roman Empire), continues on to Mirador Lineal (a scenic path), along Calle Herrerías, across Puente Mayor bridge (also known as Puente de las Donadas), and into El Retamar, the only historic area of the town on the other side of the river. It then continues through El Retamar until you reach the viewpoint. This site offers stunning sights of the valley. It then takes you to the point where Calle Amargura and Calle Jardines meet, and then back to the area around the bridge and along the riverbank to the fountain known as Fuente de la Oliva. It then continues along the northern ring road (circunvalación norte) to the bridge known as Puente Nuevo. From here, it takes you through the area of the town that was built as it grew during the 17th and 18th centuries, to Plaza de las Hijas de la Caridad. It then continues north through the medieval town and Plaza de Santa María, finishing at one of Montoro’s most emblematic landmarks: Plaza de España.
Get in
[edit]The route takes place in Montoro, 42.6 km (26.5 mi) from the city of Córdoba, which can be reached via the A-4 , N-420 or A-309 . The route can be made by foot.
Drive
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Route: Mirador del Imperio Romano to Calle Herrerías, on the corner of N-420 .
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The route begins at the viewpoint known as 1 Mirador del Imperio Romano (Viewpoint of the Roman Empire). From here, you can see how the River Guadalquivir makes it way from the south-east, surrounding the town. To the south, the river has created an area of lush vegetation that almost entirely covers the medieval 2 Cascajar watermills, once used to make flour. To the east, you will see the whitewashed 3 neighbourhood of El Retamar. To the west is the fountain known as 4 fuente del Pilar de las Herrerías and the town’s distinctive red and white houses. To the north, the river bends around the town, makes its way under Puente Mayor bridge and then disappears from view. It is well worth taking a moment to take in the stunning sight of the lush riverbank, the river, El Retamar and the distant olive groves, whilst listening to the trickling water of the river. The route continues along 5 Mirador Lineal, a scenic path above the Guadalquivir. To your left, you will see a line of whitewashed houses perched delicately on the red sandstone rock upon which Montoro is built. You will pass by one of Montoro’s many fountains, known as 6 fuente del Pilar de Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Just by this you will see a Station of the Cross. Both are reminders of the importance of water and the traditional Crosses of May in the town. After passing this fountain, continue straight along Calle Camino Nuevo, which takes you to 7 Puente Mayor (also known as Puente de las Donadas).
View from Mirador del Imperio Romano.
View from Mirador del Imperio Romano.
Route: 8 Mirador lineal (scenic path) above the Guadalquivir, parallel to N-420 , and calle 9 Camino Nuevo (15 minutes).
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From 10 Puente Mayor, you can truly appreciate the importance of this bridge, which was built in the 16th century. Its location is no coincidence, with the narrowest point in the valley formed by the Guadalquivir (known as Cincela del Rastro) being chosen. The bridge is known locally as Puente de las Donadas, alluding to the fact that it is believed locals donated money to help with its construction by selling off land. Puente Mayor sits 19 metres above the river, enough to avoid it being flooded by the frequent changes in water levels, and is built from blocks of red sandstone, known locally as piedra molinaza. According to some historians, this term comes from the fact that the stone was used to build mills (molinos) and watermills (molinos de agua). From this height, you can see how the river has shaped the terrain and formed a deep valley, through which the River Guadalquivir runs, surrounding the town. If you look to the south, to your left you will see the 11 neighbourhood of El Retamar , perched on the side of a hill, certain parts of which are considerably steep. To your right, Montoro stands tall at 200 metres, crowned by the red bell tower of 12 San Bartolomé Church. The Guadalquivir takes on green hues and on occasions reflects the whitewashed houses and blue sky. You will also see that there are small fields on each side of the river, behind the trees. The well-transited bridge known as Puente Mayor links the district of El Retamar, on one side of the river, to the main part of the town on the other, as well as the mountains to the countryside.
Route: 13 Puente Mayor and 14 calle Calvario (5 minutes)
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After taking in the excellent views from Puente Mayor, the next stop on the route is the 15 neighbourhood of El Retamar. Here, you will find 16 ermita de Santa Ana, a chapel that was possibly used during the 17th century to care for those with infectious diseases, such as the plague. However, this interpretation is contested by some historians, who believe the origins of the neighbourhood and chapel can be traced back to the workers who built Puente Mayor. To your right is Calle Calvario. Its name comes from the fact that it marked the start of an old Via Crucis, which ended at the site of the former Chapel of San Roque, located at the highest point of El Retamar. As you walk down Calle Calvario, to your left you will notice how a number of uphill roads come off it, such as Calle Santa Ana and Calle Renepon. As you continue straight, on your right you will find 17 mirador del Retamar (El Retamar Viewpoint), an excellent spot to appreciate the size of the valley through which the River Guadalquivir runs. The viewpoint also offers panoramic views of the eastern side of Montoro. Particularly impressive are the views of the River Guadalquivir, surrounded by lush vegetation, as well as the sandstone rock with its varying hues of red, upon which the whitewashed houses of Montoro sit, forming a stunning silhouette. Further north, you will see Puente Mayor. With its distinctive red colour and arches, this bridge connects the main town to the neighbourhood of El Retamar. This spot allows you to fully appreciate the open valley, which, spans 200 metres in width from where we are to the opposite side. Continuing along Calle Calvario, just before turning down Calle Amargura you will see the remains of some old chimneys. These belonged to the factories that once stood on the bank of the river and were used to process olives.
4 The cross at the intersection of Calle Amargura and Calle Jardines: a reminder of the old Via Crucis
[edit]Route: Calle Calvario, Calle Amargura, Calle Jardines, Calle Santa Ana, Plaza del Mercado and Calle Cedrón (10 minutes)
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From Calle Calvario, turn left on to 18 calle Amargura. As you walk uphill, you will notice how the whitewashed houses, with their distinctive red, yellow and brown features, have been adapted to its gentle slope. At the start of Calle Amargura the road opens up at an 19 intersection. Here, you will see one of the many crosses dotted throughout Montoro, and particularly common in this neighbourhood. Maps from 1792, held by the National Library, show how these once formed a Via Crucis, made up of 14 Stations of the Cross marked by a traditional cross. The stations, of which there are very few left today, generally have a tapered square base and a column, upon which sits a cross, often made from cast iron. After stopping at the cross, continue uphill along Calle Amargura until it meets Calle Jardines. Here, you will find another of these crosses. As you make your way uphill, the roads get narrower and narrower, immersing you in the life of the neighbourhood. However, where they meet one of the roads that run perpendicular to the river, such as 20 calle Renepon, views across the town open up before us. The route now takes you to the end of Calle Jardines, across a park, on to Calle Santa Ana, to the Market Square (Plaza del Mercado) and then downhill on 21 calle Cedrón, where you can take in spectacular views of Montoro.
Route: 22 calle Cedrón, 23 Fuente de la Oliva, circunvalación norte (northern ring road) and 24 Mirador de Entrehuertas (10 minutes).
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Still in the 25 neighbourhood of El Retamar, we find ourselves at an intersection, leaving behind the Market Square. To your left, you will see the Chapel of Santa Ana (Ermita de Santa Ana) and Puente Mayor. In front of you, you will see a row of houses that obscures your view of Montoro. Here there is a ramp that connects to a path along the right bank of the river, which will take you to the fountain known as Fuente de la Oliva. This is the lowest part of the town. From here, you will see how 26 Puente Mayor rises amongst poplars, reeds and the rocky outcrops of the forest along the river. For a few minutes you will be surrounded by lush vegetation, until the path begins to take you uphill and on your right you reach 27 Fuente de la Oliva, with its four spouts in the shape of a cannon. Behind this fountain, you will see the remains of what was once a watermill known as El Molinillo. Built in the 18th century, this took advantage of the stream known as Arroyo de las Ventanillas. Water has historically played an important role in the development of the town, being used to its power watermills. Examples include 28 molino de las Monjas, opposite El Molinillo on the other side of the river, 29 Molino de Fernando Alonso, built in the 15th century, and 30 Molino aceña del Cascajal. Continue past the fountain and on to the riverside path. Although this spot offers excellent views of Montoro, the best place for seeing the town in all its splendour is the viewpoint known as 31 Mirador de Entrehuertas. This site allows you to fully appreciate how the town’s strategic location provided it with a natural line of defence and allowed it to control the surrounding area. This section of the route takes you along the town’s ring road, offering excellent views of the river and town on your left as well as the rugged mountains on your right.
Route: Circunvalación norte (northern ring road), 32 puente Nuevo and 33 Plaza Hijas de la Caridad (20 minutes).
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Puente Nuevo (the New Bridge) connects Montoro to Sierra de Córdoba in the west. This spot, above the Guadalquivir, offers fantastic views of the surrounding landscape. To the north are the foothills of Sierra Morena. The slopes closest to Montoro are dominated by olive groves, used to make olive oil with the Montoro-Adamuz protected designation of origin. From here, we can see how the river is surrounded on both sides by a forest. This is home to a diverse ecosystem of flora and fauna. To the west you will see gentle hills covered in olive groves and the river as it makes its way to the city of Córdoba. To the south you will see the town’s houses perched on its hill. It is clear when looking at these that some follow the old town wall, which protected Montoro during the Middle Ages. We now leave the bridge behind and make our way through the town via Calle Pescadores. This street has had the same name since the 17th century. Our next stop is 34 calle Santos Isasa, which you can get to by taking a left and going along Calle Paloma (which has a particularly steep slope), or via Ronda del Poeta Manuel Terrín Benavides (which has a slightly gentler slope). Calle Paloma comes out on to Calle Santos Isasa very close to one of the gates in the town wall built by the Moors, who captured the town in 712. Known as 35 Torre Mocha, it likely dates back to the 11th century and is all that remains of the old Moorish town wall. Continuing along Calle Santos Isasa, you will notice how its layout is adapted to the old town wall.
Montoro and the New Bridge
Route: 36 Calle Pescadores, Calle Paloma, Calle Santos Isasa and 37 Plaza Hijas de la Caridad (10 minutes).
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The square known as 38 plaza de las Hijas de la Caridad, located at 198 metres from the lowest part of Montoro, is where the town’s main streets converge. It is joined to Plaza del Charco, and during the 16th century both squares were known by this name. Between 1530 and 1580, Montoro’s population stopped growing and its expansion was halted, having reached Calle Corredera as well as Calle El Santo and Calle Cava, in the flatter part of the town. Following the three big epidemics of the 17th century, at the 18th century the town’s population began to grow again and it underwent further expansion, with a number of religious buildings appearing towards the end of the century. These include San Juan de la Cruz Convent, now the church known as 39 Iglesia Parroquial del Carmen. Between 1863 and 1868, this square was known as Plaza de Isabel II. In 1868 it was renamed Plaza de la Libertad and in 1875 Plaza de Alfonso XII. Its current name (which translates as ‘Square of the Daughters of Charity’) dates back to 1932 and reflects its importance in the town. The red stone used for the town’s monuments as well as the entrances of its aristocratic houses contrasts sharply against its whitewashed buildings, offering a truly unique sight. If you look south from the middle of this square, you will see how it is joined to Plaza del Charco by the Baroque church known as Iglesia Parroquial del Carmen. You will also notice how six streets converge on it. One of these is 40 calle Salazar, which will take us to our next stop.
Route: 41 calle Salazar, Calle Álvaro Pérez, Calle Estrella, Calle Ceniza, Calle los Laras and 42 calle Marín (10 minutes).
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As you leave Calle Salazar behind and walk along Calle Álvaro Pérez, you will see a number of aristocratic houses with elaborate red-stone entrances and large central balconies. These houses, as well as the religious buildings along the street, take back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Of particular interest are 43 Casa de las Tercias Catedralicias (now the Olive Oil Museum) and 44 Hospital de Jesús Nazareno. The area where the road widens and joins with Calle de la Estrella used to be known as Plazuela del Mayorazgo. This name came from the fact that it used to be home to the residence of the heir apparent of a local aristocratic family (mayorazgo meaning ‘primogeniture’ in Spanish). Continuing along Calle Estrella, the roads becomes narrower and more winding. Turn right on to Calle Ceniza. This road was known as Calle de Horno de Fresco at the beginning of the 17th century. According to the land registry of the Marquess of Ensenada, there was a bakery (horno) on this road in 1757, which would explain its name. Calle Ceniza continues on to Calle los Laras, which gets its name from the prominent Lara family, who settled in Montoro following its recapture by the Crown of Castile. During the 17th century, the Laras were important landowners and also had a number of flour mills, such as the Cascajar watermill, which belonged to Don Juan de Lara de la Cerda. These streets take you through the old walled town, where you will see many examples of local architecture. Notice how the houses are perfectly adapted to the sloped terrain by way of poyatos, meaning their entrances are on the same level as the street. You will notice how there is an open space where Calle los Laras and Calle Marín meet, the result of changes to the urban layout of Montoro following its recapture by the Crown of Castile.
Route: Calle Coracha, Calle Puente, Calle Santiago, Calle Dotes and Calle Capitán (15 minutes).
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On Calle Marín, once again we see examples of red-stone entrances with crests of arms carved out above them. To your right you will see the 45 archway on Calle Ventura. This used to be known as Arco del Fiscal and was named after a public prosecutor (fiscal) who lived in the 18th century. This area of the town has a number of slopes with the houses perfectly adapted to compensate for these. Turn on to Calle Coracha. This road, which gets its name from the sac used to transport tobacco and coffee from the Americas, is narrower and windier than the previous ones due to its Moorish origins and the slope on which it is built. Calle Coracha was once the site of a tower belonging to the Muslim alcazaba, as documented in the land registry of the Marquess of Ensenada. A few points along this road offer views of the landscape surrounding Montoro to the north. At the end of Calle Coracha, the road becomes a bit wider. On your left is Calle Puente (going downhill) and above this, on your right, is Calle Santiago and the 46 Iglesia de Santiago Church. Here, each May a colourful cross is placed at its entrance. Continue uphill through the labyrinth made up of Calle Dotes and Calle Capitán. Calle Dotes is named after Don Pedro Capitán, who left a significant amount of money in his will to help poor young girls in the town. At the end of Calle Capitán, you will come to 47 plaza de Santa María. Here, you will find the 48 Santiago Cano y Consuelo Torrión Municipal Museum of Archaeology . This was the former site of a Visigoth chapel devoted to Santa María de la Mota. When the Moors captured the area, it was turned into a mosque within the alcazaba.
Route: Calle Bartolomé Camacho and 49 Plaza de España (5 minutes).
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From 50 plaza de Santa María, continue on to Calle Bartolomé Camacho, which will take you to the highest point in Montoro. This narrow road begins with a gentle slope, which, following a tight bend, becomes much steeper. After the bend, you will see the red-stone tower of the 51 iglesia de San Bartolomé church rise among the whitewashed houses. As you continue along the road, amongst houses with coats of arms engraved in the stone above their doors, the bell tower becomes bigger and more majestic. The urban landscape becomes particularly stunning as we approach Calle Postigo by the church, taking you through streets that will transport you to the Middle Ages, Renaissance and Baroque period. Passing 52 calle Postigo on your right, continue until you reach Plaza de España, the beating heart of Montoro and our last stop. This stunning square, which is where locals come to socialise and is home to the Town Hall, is truly unique. Particularly striking are its size and the grandeur of its buildings. During the reconquest, it was even bigger than it is now. Other names it has been known by are Plaza de la Constitución de 1812 (in 1932), Plaza Mayor, Plaza de la Iglesia (in 1483) and Plaza del Cabildo. The square has an unmistakeably Renaissance character, with buildings dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, such as Iglesia de San Bartolomé and 53 Casas Capitulares, which were completed in the 17th century. Also of interest is Arco del Postigo, which was built in 1761 as the entrance to the Royal Jail.
Panoramics of plaza España
Safety
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The places included on the route are safe and have low rates of crime. However, the usual safety precautions should be taken, such as locking your car and keeping your eye on your rucksack and other personal belongings. As in the rest of Spain, the Guardia Civil is responsible for policing the countryside, although Montoro does have its own local police force. On many parts of the route, there are no areas of shade. As such, you should use sun cream and a hat when the weather is hot. A number of sections are not fully accessible and may require outdoor wear and walking boots.
- Emergencies-112, ☏ 112.
- Guardia Civil, ☏ 062.
Stay healthy
[edit]The hospitals nearest to the points along the route are:
- 1 Centro de Salud Montoro, C/ Senda Golosilla, 14600, Montoro, Córdoba, ☏ +34 955545060.
- 2 Hospital Universitario Reina Sofía, Av. Menéndez Pidal, S/N, Córdoba, ☏ +34955545060.