David Gareja (Georgian: დავითგარეჯის სამონასტრო კომპლექსი, Davit'garejis samonastro komplek'si, sometimes spelled Davit Gareja) is a rock-hewn Georgian Orthodox monastery complex in the Kakheti region of Georgia.

Understand

The monastery lies on the half-desert slopes of Mount Gareja, 60–70 km southeast of Georgia's capital Tbilisi, and is even partially in Azerbaijan.

Although most of the complex is in Georgia, the ridge of the site is in Azerbaijan and completely closed as of 2022, and as such, there is no way to get up (though the exact border is still the subject of a dispute between these countries). This kind of defeats the purpose of the whole trip and thus makes it probably not worth it. However, if you have a car, coming by will rewards you with some impressive landscapes—there is a shortcut by Rustavi.

Get in

By bus

• Gareji Line shuttle bus. 1st April – 31st October. This shuttle bus is going daily forth and back between the monastery and Tbilisi. Confirm the service through their Facebook site, because they were not operating for the 2022 season. 40 lari round-trip. (updated Jul 2023)

The itinerary of the shuttle bus as of Sep 2018:

• 11:00 Departure from Pushkin Square (better be there 10:45)
• Stop in the way at a little shop with a bakery
• 14:00 Arrival at David Gareja
• 16:30 Departure from David Gareja
• 17:00 Dinner break at the Black Horse Restaurant in Udabno
• 18:00 Departure from Udabno
• 19:30 - 20:00 Arrival in Tbilisi

If you want to continue to Sighnaghi after visiting David Gareja, ask the driver to drop you in Sagarejo. You'll probably be dropped at the intersection of Highway 5 and Street 172 (the one coming south from Udabno). There you could ask around for a taxi. The owner of the little bar next to the "restaurant in a bus" drove us to Sighnaghi for 70 lari (70 km, 50 min).

• Gareji Tour bus. 1st April – 31st October. Shuttle bus going daily forth and back with stop in Udabno for lunch. Start at 11:00 from Avlabari square in Tbilisi. 25 lari round-trip. (updated Oct 2019)

By car

There are two options to get there: either via Sagarejo (with a road in regular condition), or via Rustavi, which offers an amazing view on the industrial desert of this former factory city, but at the price of a road in a very bad state—when raining probably not manageable in a regular car.

In both cases, make sure you have a good GPS software, as the road signs are almost non-existent (slightly better via Sagarejo).

By taxi

Three options:

• Chartering a taxi from Tbilisi; this may cost at least 100 lari, including the 2 or 3-hour waiting time in the monastery.
• Going by marshrutka (e.g., the one heading to Sighnaghi) until the crossroad of Sagarejo; from there, charter a taxi, which may cost 50-60 lari. This option will for sure work during the high season, but can be more challenging in winter time.
• Also, many travel agencies (in Tbilisi) can organize one-day or half-day tours to the monastery. But it may be much more expensive than chartering a taxi yourself.

Fees and permits

No entrance fees.

Get around

Walking is the only option on the site of the monastery.

See

David Gareja Georgian Orthodox monastery complex

The main monastery is right behind the small parking lot. You can visit most of it; the rooms not allowed to tourists are clearly marked with "no entrance" signs, in both English and Georgian. See the tomb of the first monk to have lived there (St. David Garejeli).

Then, you can follow the path starting right behind the church shop, that goes on the top of the small mountain. There, you have a wonderful view towards both Georgia and Azerbaijan. And you will see many troglodyte churches, some of them with paintings from the 11th and 12th centuries. Total time: about 1hr 30min, using a sometimes steep path.

Do

Wandering around is the activity of choice.

Buy

The church shop at the entrance of the site sells some religious objects.

Eat and drink

There are numerous places to eat and drink in Udabno, the town just before the monastery. Or you can just bring your own food.

• 1 Black Horse Restaurant, Udabno (the exact location on Google Maps), ☏ +995 551979694, blackhorseudabno@gmail.com. Traditional Georgian cuisine based mostly on fresh local products and a wide selection of drinks in the bar. Comfortable place to relax with great views. (updated Jul 2019)

Sleep

• 1 Oasis Club, Udabno village, ☏ +995 574805563, oasisclubudabno@gmail.com. This places offers a hostel, food and drinks in the middle of a Georgian desert. Polish owners, traditional Georgian food. Check out the website for more details. Dorm from 25 lari, single including breakfast 70 lari. 

Stay safe

The monastery is partly in Azerbaijani territory. Generally, the entry is possible without any problems, but sometimes Azeri soldiers might block the way due to the ongoing dispute between the two countries. This might be troublesome, but it does not pose any danger to tourists.

Travelling further is not possible. Travel into Azerbaijan requires a visa and a proper border control.

Cope

It's often windy; so during winter be sure to wear warm clothes.

Toilets are available in the building next to the parking lot for 0.50 lari.

Connect

Probably the Oasis Club also has WiFi. Out of all mobile carriers Magti has the best reception and 4G internet is available along most of the way and at David Gareja. You can buy a simcard package in Sagarejo or Rustavi.

Go next

• Rustavi – a post-Soviet upcoming city with the Sioni Church, 30 km W
• Gurjaani – one of the centres of Georgia's wine industry. Landmarks include the Church of the Dormition aka Church of All Saints (Kvelatsminda; 8th-9th century), 60-80 km NE
• Sighnaghi – a restored wine town with an Old Town, the Pirosmani Museum and an extensive fortifications, as well as the Bodbe Monastery (aka Bodbe Convent or St. George of Bodbe) on its outskirts, 50 km NE
• Telavi – nearby Alaverdi Monastery and gateway to Tusheti National Park, 70 km N

Also, see Kakheti region for more details.