Esplanade (Bengali: ধর্মতলা Dharmatalā, Hindi: धर्मतल्ला Dharmtallā) is the modern heart of Kolkata, combining colonial-era buildings with modern developments. It serves as the city's new central business district and is preferred by major businesses, particularly along Chowringhee Road.
Understand
[edit]Name
[edit]The area is known as Esplanade in English, and Dharmatala (Bengali: ধর্মতলা Dharmatalā, Hindi: धर्मतल्ला Dharmtallā) in Bengali and Hindi.
The name "Esplanade" refers to the large, open, level area outside a fortress to provide clear fields of fire for the fortress's guns, and Fort William (present-day Vijay Durg) was developed with a surrounding open area, also called the Maidan (ময়দান Maẏdān). The present district is developed around that green space.
The name "Dharmatala" literally means "Holy Street", and is commonly believed to be named after Tipu Sultan Mosque. According to historian Binoy Ghosh, the name Dharmatala is probably due to the preeminence of folk deity Dharmathakur in olden days.
History
[edit]In the mid-18th century, when the British began expanding beyond B. B. D. Bagh, Esplanade was among their earliest developments. They constructed large bungalows and houses along the northern stretch of Chowringhee Road. Only a few of these structures remain today, including The Oberoi Grand, Janbazar Building, Chowringhee Mansions, Asiatic Society, and the Indian Museum.
Get in
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Map of EsplanadeBy bus
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- 1 Esplanade Bus Terminus. The bus stand also serves several city bus routes, not just the long-distance ones. It is the most obvious way to get here, though there are bus stops to alight at specific destinations within the district.
By metro
[edit]2 Esplanade 1 2 is the main hub of the Kolkata Metro, being served by both Blue and Green lines. It has two separate underground terminals for each line, connected by a subway (underpass).
3 Park Street 1 is at the western end of Park Street.
By tram
[edit]There are only two active routes from 6 Esplanade 
, one from Shyambazar, and another from Gariahat. Despite being eco-friendly, this is not the most practical way to get here, especially in peak hours when the roads are congested.
See
[edit]- 1 Central Municipal Office Building, 1, Charlie Chaplin Sq. Although not as iconic as the one in Mumbai or Chennai, the rectangular building built in colonial architecture houses the office of the Kolkata Municipal Corporation (KMC), formerly the Calcutta Municipal Corporation (CMC), the civic body governing the city of Kolkata.
- 2 Roxy Cinema, Chowringhee Pl. A single-screen cinema known for its Art Deco architecture. The semicircular building with three viewing levels was originally an opera house, which was converted to a cinema in the 1940s. It has been a cultural hub of Central Kolkata for decades.
Chowringhee Road
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- 3 Metropolitan Building (Whiteways and Laidlaw Building), 140, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). It was a famous department store in Kolkata during the British period. This neo-baroque emporium—with domes, a clock tower and arched recessed windows—exemplifies fashionable shopping during the British Raj.
- 4 Indian Museum, 27, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Park Street 1 ), ☏ +91 33 2249 5699, fax: +91 33 249 5696, indianmuseumkolkata@gmail.com. 10AM-5PM (closed M). Established in 1814, this was the first such museum in Asia. Among its famous collection is the urn that held the ashes of the Buddha (though this is generally not on display), a Pillar of Ashoka (the three-lion symbol which became the official emblem of the Republic of India) and numerous rare antiques. A varied collection of exhibits include unique fossils, Buddhist Gandhara art and an Egyptian mummy. The Indian Museum has a library of excellent historical value, with a special focus on the British Raj and Kolkata. ₹50 (for Indian citizens) ₹150 (for foreign citizens).
- 5 The 42 (দ্য ফোরটি-টু Dya Phōrṭi-ṭu), 42B, Chowringhee Rd. A 260 m (850 ft) high box-shaped apartment building, and the tallest building of the city.
- 6 Nehru Children's Museum, 94/1, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Rabindra Sadan 1 ), ☏ +91 33 2223 1551, nehrumuseum1972@gmail.com. 11AM-7PM (close M and Tu). A museum with a collection of over a thousand dolls across four floors of the building. Most of the dolls are collected from different states of India, dressed in traditional attire. The Indian epics like the Ramayana and the Mahabharata are depicted here through puppets and miniature models. There are also dolls from 88 nations with their own dresses, meant to be a window to the world. ₹20.
Esplanade Row
[edit]- 7 Smaranika Tram Museum (স্মরণিকা Smaraṇikā), 6, Esplanade Row East (metro: Esplanade 1 2 ; tram: Esplanade
). 3PM–8PM (closed Th). A museum housed inside a decommissioned tram, showcasing the 150-year-old heritage of the tram system in Kolkata. There's a cafeteria in the museum which serves basic tea and coffee. The cafeteria is considered a great place for adda. ₹5. - 8 Esplanade Mansions, 1, Esplanade Row East. One of the buildings previously owned by Jewish businessman David Elias Ezra. The residential building was built in the Art Nouveau architecture style. As of 2022, it is owned by the Life Insurance Corporation (LIC) and houses commercial, railways and other government offices.
Park Street
[edit]Park Street (পার্ক স্ট্রিট Pārk Sṭriṭ), officially Mother Teresa Sarani (মাদার টেরিজা সরণি Mādār Ṭerijā Saraṇi), is a colonial-era relic and one of the busiest streets in Kolkata. It runs east-west from Park Circus Crossing to Chowringhee Road. The street is almost always busy, even in midnight, reminding that the city never sleeps. Park Street is particularly popular when it comes to Christmas and New Year in Kolkata. During this time this area is so well decorated with colours as if it is still part of the British Empire. The area records spikes in footfall during Durga Puja and Diwali as well.
Park Street is also Kolkata's foremost dining area with many restaurants and pubs, and it has been popular for nightlife since the British times. Even though there are pubs and bars everywhere in Kolkata, Park Street has retained its British colonial spirit. It also showcases fashionable clothes, as well as books from all over the world.
- 9 The Asiatic Society, 1, Park St. 10AM-6PM. The oldest library in Kolkata, with hundreds and thousands of books, journals and microfiche in various languages, along with a collection of different images. The main reading room has an internet facility, where you can search for books online. Its collection includes the Edict of Ashoka in granite from 250 BCE, a Brahma statue in black basalt stone from the 12th century, Maitryavyākaraṇa from 940, and Aṣṭasahasrikā Prajñāpāramitā from 1231.
- 10 Assembly of God Church.
- 11 Seventh-day Adventist Church.
- 12 South Park Street cemetery, Park St. The final resting place for early British traders and settlers.
Memorials
[edit]- 13 Mother Teresa’s tomb (Mother House), 54A, AJC Bose Rd, ☏ +91 33 2217 5267. The Missionaries of Charity is a new order formed in 1950 by Mother Teresa. Their vow to give wholehearted and free service to the poorest of the poor was put into action with the setting up of several homes. Visit Mother Teresa’s tomb at the Mother House, Nirmal Hriday (home for the dying), Shanti Nagar (for lepers), and Nirmala Shishu Bhavan (the children’s home).
- 14 Shaheed Minar (শহীদ মিনার Śahīd Minār, formerly Ochterlony Monument). Locally known as the "Monument", the British-era memorial pillar is 48 meters high. It is rededicated to the Indian freedom activists in 1969 and the monument was renamed Shaheed Minar.
Museums
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- 15 Victoria Memorial (ভিক্টোরিয়া মেমোরিয়াল Bhikṭoriẏā Memoriẏāl), 1, Queen's Way (metro: Maidan 1 (north entry), Victoria 3 (north entry), Rabindra Sadan 1 (south entry)), ☏ +91 33 2223-5142, victomem@gmail.com. 10AM-5PM (closed M), Son et Lumière (English) 7:15PM Oct-Feb and 7:45PM Mar-Jun. Kolkata's most celebrated landmark, this monument was built with imperial self-confidence and was the brainchild of Lord Curzon, one of India's most flamboyant Viceroys. The domed structure was completed in 1921, with marble used from Makrana. Now a museum, the Victoria Memorial's 25 galleries are spread over 2 floors. The collection covers a fascinating selection of Raj memorabilia and includes the Calcutta Gallery with oil paintings and watercolours of the city's history. Do not miss the grand Durbar Hall, inside which lies a statue of Lord Cornwallis. The museum is set in extensive and beautiful lawns and is lit up at night. A laser audio-visual show is held on the lawns every evening. "Nike", the Greek Goddess of victory, on top of the museum, is said to be haunted and has been prominently featured in many Kolkata stories and novels. Drones not allowed. Garden: ₹4 for Indians. Museum: ₹20 for Indians and ₹150 for foreigners. Camera free. Light and sound shows: ₹10 and ₹20.
- 16 Academy of Fine Arts, info@academyoffinearts.in.
- 17 Baker Hostel (বেকার হোস্টেল Bekār Hosṭel), 8, Smith Ln. A historical building founded in 1910 by Edward Norman Baker as a government hostel for the male students of Maulana Azad College. Rooms 23 and 24 of the building are converted into a museum in honour of Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the founding father and the first president of Bangladesh. Room no. 24 (Bangabandhu Memorial Room) contains Rahman's used bed, table and chair. There is a small library where his books are arranged.
- 18 Kolkata Police Museum, Library & Cafeteria, 112, Muzaffar Ahmed St, ☏ +91 33 2360 7704. 11:00AM-6:30PM (closed M).
Places of worship
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- 19 Tipu Sultan Mosque (টিপু সুলতান মসজিদ Ṭipu Sultān Masjid), 185, Lenin Sarani. One of the major landmarks of Esplanade, locally known as the Dharmatala Mosque (ধর্মতলা মসজিদ Dharmatalā Masjid). Built in 1842 by Prince Ghulam Mohammed, the youngest son of Tipu Sultan. People from all sections of society and religions are allowed to visit and take pictures of this historical premise.
Churches
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- 20 St. Paul's Cathedral (সেন্ট পলস ক্যাথিড্রাল Senṭ Pals Kyāthiḍrāl), 1A, Cathedral Rd. The largest Anglican church in Kolkata. It was constructed in 1847 and serves as a cathedral church of Church of North India (CNI). This Gothic-styled cathedral was designed by William Nairn Forbes.
- 21 Church of the Lord Jesus (প্রভু যীশুর গির্জা Prabhu Yīśur Girjā), Rafi Ahmed Kidwai Rd. Formerly a Church of Scotland Presbyterian, the Catholic church is a unique one in the city, with most of the religious services being done in Bengali.
- 22 Sacred Heart Church Dharmatala (Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus), 3, Lenin Sarani, ☏ +91 33 2228 1046. A Catholic church building, built in 1832-34 as a Portuguese church. It was renovated in 1971, with the upper part of the building occupying the actual church.
- 23 St. James Church (জোড়া গির্জা Joṛā Girjā, literally "twin churches"). One of the most elegant churches in the city. Built in 1862, its twin spires of St. James' Church dominate Kolkata's skyline.
- St. Teresa's Church.
- 24 St. Thomas Church, Middleton Row. A Roman Catholic church.
- 25 Wesleyan Church (Sudder Street Church), ☏ +91 98749 71342. 9AM-10PM.
Do
[edit]- 1 Birla Planetarium (বিড়লা তারামণ্ডল Biṛlā Tārāmaṇḍal), 96, Chowringhee Rd, (N of St. Paul's Cathedral). One of the oldest planetaria in India. The only planetarium in the country whose dome houses a collection of projectors and optical equipment expensively imported from the erstwhile East Germany. It is the largest planetarium in South Asia and the second largest in the world. Daily shows in English, Hindi and Bengali. The central dome measures 25 m (82 ft) in diameter.
Maidan
[edit]The Maidan (ময়দান Maẏdān) is a 519-hectare green space at the middle of the city. It is a vast stretch of field and home to numerous playgrounds. The roads on the Maidan are dotted with tiny greenish bungalow tents (clubhouses) belonging to various sports clubs. There are numerous patches for playing. Some of the larger clubs occupy the fields with wooden galleries. Once in a while, the Maidan has political rallies with crowds numbering one hundred thousand plus.
The tiger-haunted jungle, which cut off the village of Chowringhee from the river, was cleared and gave way to the wide grassy stretch of the Maidan of which the city is so proud. It was originally developed as a 5-km2 parade ground for the British forces and that part is thus also called the Brigade Ground.
The big three of Kolkata football, Mohun Bagan, East Bengal and Mohammedan, have a noticeable presence, but there are also names with faded glory, such as Rangers. Somewhere in between fit-in organisations such as the Kennel Club and the Press Club. There are also lower-order clubs, who do not have much of a following but have a noticeable contribution and sometimes spring a surprise – Wari, Aryans, Rajasthan and so on – and a host of office clubs.
- 2 Kolkata Race Course. Built in 1819, it is one of the best in the east and is the scene of much gaiety, especially during the winter season. Founded in 1847, the Royal Calcutta Turf Club is the oldest turf club in India and one of the most beautiful and largest in the world.
- 3 Volleyball Ground. Operated by the West Bengal Volleyball Federation (WBVF).
Cinemas
[edit]- 4 Jyoti Cinema, 32/1, Lenin Sarani. One of the most popular and oldest single-screen movie theatres of Kolkata. Hindi films and English Hollywood films used to be screened regularly. The theatre had a steady audience for its comfortable seating, good screen quality and stereophonic sound.
- 5 Metro Cinema, 8, Chowringhee Rd. A uniplex cinema hall and a heritage building with Art Deco architecture.
Parks
[edit]- 6 Allen Park, Park St. The namesake of Park Street.
- 7 Curzon Park (Surendranath Park), Rashmoni Ave (metro: Esplanade 1 ).
- 8 Ekushey Udyan. A small park with a sculpture at the middle, dedicated to the Bengali Language Movement in Bangladesh.
- 9 Elliot Park (metro: Maidan 1 ). 1-4PM. A popular park among young people, especially as students from nearby visit the park in between their classes. It has a 1.5 km (0.93 mi) jogging strip for evening walks, as well as morning walks for locals. Free.
- 10 Gol Talab (Gol Talab ). The central lake of Taltala, a locality known for its Urdu-speaking Muslim population.
- 11 Indira Udyan. A small park with a statue of Indira Gandhi at the middle.
- 12 Mohor Kunja (Citizens' Park). A park known for its musical fountains and an open-air stage for cultural events.
Venues
[edit]- 13 Nandan (নন্দন), 1/1, AJC Bose Rd (metro: Rabindra Sadan 1 ). The symbol of art and culture in the city. Major festivals are held here, including Kolkata International Film Festival (KIFF).
- 14 Rabindra Sadan (রবীন্দ্র সদন Rabīndra Sadan) (metro: Rabindra Sadan 1 ), ☏ +91 33 2223 9917. Theatre and cultural centre built 1961-67.
- 15 Sisir Mancha (শিশির মঞ্চ Śiśir Mañca), 1-1, AJC Bose Rd (metro: Rabindra Sadan 1 ). A building housing an auditorium for Bengali theatres, an art gallery, and an information centre for tourists in Kolkata.
Learn
[edit]- 1 Alliance Française du Bengale, Gate 3, Park Mansions, 57A Park St (upon arriving at Park Mansions, enter the gate facing Park St at Mirza Ghalib St-Park St crossing), ☏ +91 33 4006 4801. 10AM-6PM (closed Su). The French language school in Kolkata, promoting the study of French and encouraging international cultural exchange and relations.
- 2 Max Mueller Bhavan Kolkata (Goethe-Institut), Gate 4, Park Mansions, 57A Park St (upon arriving at Park Mansions, take Mirza Ghalib St and enter the leftmost gate), ☏ +91 33 2264 6602. 9AM-6PM (closed Su). The German language school in Kolkata, promoting the study of German and encouraging international cultural exchange and relations.
Buy
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The Esplanade area is the central marketplace for the people of Kolkata. There are shops ranging from computer peripherals to paint brushes and accessories, from cloth merchants to "foreign" (ফরেন pharen) goods. There are cinemas and restaurants. Major chain retailers include Pantaloons (22, Camac St).
- 1 New Market, Bertram St, Lenin Sarani (E of Lindsay Street
). M–F 10:30AM–7:30PM, S 10:30AM–2:30PM. Despite being named as such, New Market is not new at all! In fact, it is one of the oldest surviving markets in the city. Opened in 1874, it was named Sir Stuart Hogg Market after the commissioner, and it is still sometimes known as such. Although the beautiful fountain and benches at the market no longer exist, its popularity has not waned and the beautiful Gothic clock tower recalls the British heritage of the market. New Market is a good place to sample Indian sweet delicacies and generally soak up the atmosphere of Kolkata. There are also a few handicraft stalls inside. The market is in a large red brick building on Lindsay Street (the road parallel Sudder Street to the north). It has got over 2,000 stalls and is a bargain hunter's delight. The shops are arranged merchandise-wise. It is supposed to be the ultimate marketing experience in Kolkata. - 2 Eagle, 12/2 Lindsay St (in front on New Market), ☏ +91 33 98 023 6663. A good place to pick up Indian art films.
- 3 Handicrafts (Between Sudder St and Surendranath Banerjee Road). It has several shops selling handicrafts. The largest is at the corner of Surendranath Banerjee Road.
- 4 Treasure Island. M 1PM-8PM, Tu-Sa 10AM-8PM.
Books
[edit]- 5 Earthcare Books, 10 Middleton St (metro: Maidan 1 ), ☏ +91 33 2229-6551. A wonderful independent bookstore tucked away in an alley leading from Middleton St. As the name suggests, the bookstore specializes in environmental titles but also has a wide range of local subjects and poetry.
- 6 Free School Street (Mirza Ghalib Street). It is famous for its second-hand bookshops and second-hand record stalls. Rummaging through the LPs for sale on the street, one may find real gems from the jazz age.
- 7 Oxford Book Store, 15 Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 5455. A large and well-organised bookstore. Good selection of books on India and by Indian writers. Discount books and café (Cha Bar) on the second floor.
Clothing
[edit]- 8 Maidan Market (Bidhan Market), Dufferin Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). It has garments, sports goods and other shops.
- 9 Metro Plaza, 1, Ho Chi Minh Sarani (metro: Maidan 1 , beside Tata Centre), ☏ +91 33 30525473, +91 33 30525474, +91 33 22883802. Locally manufactured readymade clothes. Many shops deal only in imported garments, mostly from Bangkok. The latest footwear and lingerie. Good parking facility.
Shopping malls
[edit]- 10 Emami Shoppers' City, 3 Lord Sinha Rd, ☏ +91 33 2282 0675. Coffee shops, bookshop, designer wear, toy shops, boutiques, footwear stores, electronic stores, discotheque, beauty salons, gift shops, game parlours, multiplex
- 11 Grand Hotel Arcade, GF, The Oberoi Grand. A row of shops at the ground floor of the Oberoi Grand hotel, hidden by the grand Ionic columns of the hotel.
- 12 Shree Ram Arcade, 15A, Chowringhee Rd. Open from 10:00-20:00 from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00. on Mondays. Sunday holiday.. Full of garment shops.
- 13 Vardaan Market, 25-A, Camac St, ☏ +91 33 22812724, +91 33 22874082. Forerunner of today's large shopping malls, it was the earliest air-conditioned market. Little shops and stalls line the walls of this mall selling shoes, handbags, toys, saris, salwar suits and western wear for ladies, shirts, tee shirts and trousers for men and children's clothes for all ages, chocolates and snacks.
- 14 Westside, Block D22 Camac St, ☏ +91 33 22817312, mywestside@trent-tata.com. 11AM-9PM. The Westside stores have numerous departments to meet the varied shopping needs of customers. These include menswear, womenswear, kidswear, footwear, cosmetics, perfumes and handbags, household accessories, lingerie, and gifts. Fashionable goods are priced a little on the higher side.
Eat
[edit]- 1 Arsalan Restaurant & Caterer, 119A, Muzaffar Ahmed St, ☏ +91 90070 07935. Closed 1:00AM-10AM. Biryani and Mughlai food. Popular items: firni, mutton kosha, mutton boti kebab, chicken chatpata, mutton biryani, egg chicken roll. ₹200-600.
- 2 Dacres Lane (James Hickey Sarani). A popular alley for lunch by commuters.
- 3 K.C. Das Sweets, 11A&B, Chittaranjan Ave. Best known for its rasgullas, which is fondly called "rosogolla" (রসগোল্লা) in Bengali.
- Khalsa, Madge Ln (on left side when entering Madge Ln, from Sudder St). offers excellent and cheap Punjabi food.
- 4 Nizam's (নিজামস Nijāms), 23/24, Hogg St (junction of Hogg St and Corporation Pl). Opened in 1932, the restaurant is known for the "kathi kebab roll". The roll initially became popular among the B. B. D. Bagh officers during lunch time, then became an iconic food of Kolkata. It also serves a special potato roll named after Indian actor Amitabh Bachchan. It has a separate beef counter that serves beef kebab, bhuna, chaap, biryani and khiri (cow udder).
- 5 Drive Inn, 10, Middleton St (same as Earthcare Books), ☏ +91 33 2217-2247. An outdoor restaurant offering a wide range of good vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare (Indian/Chinese). AC area is available, the staff speaks good English and is friendly. Meals from around ₹70.
- 6 Gangaur, 2 Russel St, ☏ +91 33 2265 8437. 11:30AM-11:00PM, M & W noon-11PM. Serves a variety of vegetarian food but is particularly famous for its Rajasthani or Marwari food. ₹400-600.
- 7 Jimmy's Kitchen, 7/1A, AJC Bose Rd (AJC Bose Rd-Shakespeare Sarani crossing), ☏ +91 33 2290 7139. Chinese food. Drinks available. Popular items: Thai soup, noodles, lung fung soup, prawn, crispy chilli chicken, roast pork chilli, sweet corn soup. Jimmy's Kitchen has two branches: 1. 36F Ruby Hospital Road, 2. 14D, Lindsay Street.
- 8 Jyoti Vihar, Ho Chi Minh Sarani, ☏ +91 33 2282 9791. Offers clean and tasty South Indian food. It is completely vegetarian.
- Kebab E Que, The Astor, 15 Shakespeare Sarani, ☏ +91 33 2282 9957, +91 33 2282 9958. They serve Indian and continental cuisine, but what has made this outlet famous is the variety of kebabs that go wonderfully well with drinks.
- 9 Sip & Sandwich, 1 Shakespeare Sarani, Theatre Road AC Market (Chowringhee Rd corner), ☏ +91 9830605145. Vegetarian fast food
- 10 Waldorf, 13 D, Russel St (near crossing with Park St), ☏ +91 33 65354952. Serves delicious Chinese food.
Chowringhee Road
[edit]- Aheli, Peerless Inn Hotel, 12, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2228-0301, +91 33 4400-3900. Authentic Bengali food, served in brass utensils in a Bengali marriage environment. Drinks not served.
- 11 Anadi Cabin (অনাদি কেবিন Anādi Kebin), 9A, Chowringhee Rd. Known for Mughlai paratha (মোগলাই পরোটা Moglāi Paroṭā).
- Ban Thai, Oberoi Grand, 15 Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249-2323. M-F 7-11:30PM, Sa Su 12:30-3PM and 7-11:30PM. For an authentic taste of Thailand, visit Baan Thai. Widely recognised as the premier Thai restaurant in the country. Drinks served. Around ₹4,000 for two people. Drinks extra.
- New Embassy, 53A, Chowringhee Ln (right on Chowringhee Rd between Shakespeare Sarani crossing and AJC Bose Rd crossing), ☏ +91 33 22827490. Delicious Chinese food.
- 12 Rallis, Esplanade, 10D, Chowringhee Rd. Vegetarian restaurant known for various kinds of snacks. Chats and South Indian foods are common. Famous for non-alcoholic drinks including various kinds of milkshakes.
- Seacom Heritage Court Café, 1F, YMCA, 25, Chowringhee Rd. A heritage-inspired eatery serving Indian, Chinese, and Italian meals, with the Continental being the best one. It re-imagines traditional recipes with modern techniques, with a blend of heritage interiors and diverse cuisines. The balcony offers a great view of the buzzing city below. ₹1,000.
Free School Street
[edit]- 13 Kathleen's, Free School St. Pastry shop and an eclectic mix of cuisines dominated by Indian and Chinese styles.
- 14 Raj's Spanish Cafe, 7, Sudder St (hard-to-find alleyway entrance close to intersection Free School St), ☏ +91 33 4001 4373. 8AM-10PM. Serves breakfast and espresso-based coffees. Mexican, pizza, and other Western staples. mains ₹100.
Park Street
[edit]- 15 Barbeque Nation, 1F, 24, Park St, ☏ +91 80 6902 8723, toll-free: +1 800 108 6060. noon-3:45 PM & 6:30-10:30PM.
- 16 Flurys (ফ্লুরিস Phluris), 18 Park St, ☏ +91 33 22297664. Tu-Su 7AM-8PM, M 10AM-6PM. A popular and stylish café serving a good variety of baked goods and various coffees, sandwiches and entrées. A great place for breakfast or lunch. Baked goods ₹80-₹100, drinks ₹80, meals ₹600-1000.
- 17 Ilish Truly Bong Restaurant, 83B Park St, ☏ +91 98305 63345. 11AM-11PM. The only Bengali restaurant in the Park Street area, specialised to various hilsa (iliś) dishes. ₹999 onwards.
- 18 Kwality, 17, Park St (next to Oxford Book Shop). Been around for years with sharply dressed waiters serving tasty tandoori and north Indian food to well-off locals. Try their Chhola-bhatura. Mains from ₹100.
- 19 Mocambo, 25B Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2265 4300. Same owners as Peter Cat, but here the cuisine is a bit more rounded. Continental, Indian and even some Chinese dishes are served in upscale surroundings. mains ₹100-300.
- 20 Moulin Rouge (not to be confused with Paris night club), 31, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 9397. 11AM-11PM.
- 21 Oasis Restaurant, 33, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 9033. Cosy restaurant with variety of Indian and Chinese foods. Has a small bar service counter with three stalls.
- 22 Peter Cat, 18, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2229 8841. Very popular for its chello kababs. However, their service has not received the best reviews. Serves Indian, tandoori and Continental fare.
- 23 Shiraz Golden Restaurant, 135, Park St (at Mullick Bazar crossing), ☏ +91 33 3099 0175, +91 85850 07649. Noon-11:30PM. Biryani and Mughlai food since 1941. Popular items: firni, mutton biryani, brain masala, chicken tikka, chicken reshmi butter masala, mutton haleem. It has four food outlets in Kolkata: Kankurgachi, Salt Lake Sector III, Ajay Nagar, and Nagerbazar. ₹200-600.
- 24 Trincas, 17, Park St, ☏ +91 82402 59201, trincasrestaurant@gmail.com. 11:30AM-11:30PM.
Sudder Street
[edit]- 25 Blue Sky Cafe, 3, Sudder St (on the corner of Chowringhee Ln). The food is cheap, the place is clean and the service is truly fantastic. Great if you are on an extended stay as they offer both Indian and some Western food. You will not find nicer waiters anywhere. Try the freshly squeezed juices.
- Curd Corner, Sudder St (near junction with Chowringhee Ln). This small hole-in-the-wall eatery is quite an institution in the area, and a generation of travellers have gorged themselves on the fresh and thick yoghurt. Check out the filter coffee and 'mock' cappuccino. Service staff don't speak English, which makes it hard when their menu is in English.
Drink
[edit]- 1 Calcutta Rangers Club Restro & Banquet, 1F, 13/1 A, Hemanta Basu Sarani, ☏ +91 91477 22533. 1:30PM-11:30PM.
- 2 Titos Bar & Restaurant, Gate no-2, 10A, Hemanta Basu Sarani (opposite Lok Bhavan), ☏ +91 98310 30467. 11AM-midnight.
- Big Ben, The Kenilworth, Little Russell St.
- Nocturne, Shakespeare Sarani.
- 3 Olive Café & Bar, 6F, 40, Shakespeare Sarani, ☏ +91 88280 99667. Noon-midnight. Mediterranean charm and handmade cocktails.
- Shisha Bar Stock Exchange, The Factory Outlet, 22 Camac St.
Park Street
[edit]- 4 The Myx, 20G, Park St.
- 5 Olypub, 23, Park St, ☏ +91 33 64520472. 11AM to 11PM. A fine afforable bar, famous for the beer and the beef steak.
Sudder Street
[edit]- 6 Fairlawn Beer Garden, 13/A Sudder St (inside Hotel Fairlawn), ☏ +91 33 2252 1510. Only serves beer. Eccentric atmosphere with greenery everywhere. Famous among travellers and volunteers. Great place for meeting people and early evening drinking. Snacks and dinner available.
- Super Pub, Sudder St (opposite of Fire Station). Air-conditioned and clean place. Serves beer and hard liquor and seasonal fruit juice. Snacks and eateries are reasonably priced.
Cafés
[edit]There are a number of café chains (Barista, Café Coffee Day, etc.) on Park Street, near the junction with Mirza Ghalib Street.
- 7 Cha Bar, 2F, Oxford Book Store, Park St. A modern and chic café with a great selection of teas, including herbal, and smoothies. The coffee, however, is mediocre. A large window offers views of street life below, while the books provide a literary dimension.
- The Street, GF, Park Hotel, Park St. The universal colours of chic decor, black and red, are used extensively to give this café a warm but modern feel. Good selection of coffees and healthy snacks, opposed to what the name might make you think. This café is about as far from representing Kolkata's street life as you could possibly get, but it makes a good alternative to the ubiquitous Baristas and Coffee Days.
Sleep
[edit]| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹2,000 |
| Mid-range | ₹2,000–5,000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹5,000 |
Budget
[edit]
Sudder Street is at the centre of Kolkata's backpacker area, and many of the budget hotels geared towards travellers are on and around this street.
- 1 Astoria Hotel, Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 9679, +91 90516 88123, astoria@hotmail.com. Clean, large, albeit drab, rooms with private bathrooms. It has a variety of options for dining and also has fitness amenities. The hotel staff are usually considered helpful, though the receptionist is sometimes considered rude and unhelpful. ₹2,850-3,200.
- 2 Bhagirathi Guest House, 30B, Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 98369 93678.
- 3 Hotel Galaxy, 3, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +33 2252 4565. Clean, simple, and convenient location with AC rooms. Has kitchen and drinking water supply facilities. The hotel staff are considered helpful. ₹1,000-1,100.
- 4 Hotel Jaapon, 30F Mirza Galib St (at the end of Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 0657, +91 33 2252 0658. Reasonably clean AC and non-AC rooms available with a very small private bathroom and cable TV. Beds are surprisingly comfortable given the thin and well-worn mattresses, but some rooms are chokingly musty - check before checking in. The hotel staff are not considered helpful. Single: ₹650, AC doubles: ₹1,100.
- 5 Hotel Maria, 5/1 Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 0860. dorm ₹80, Very basic, creatively graffiti-ed rooms with and without attached bathroom from ₹300 as of Feb 2015. Grumpy service, cheap laundry, dank bathroom/toilet and no wifi. Very central location, takes no bookings, so arrive early (8:30AM onwards).
- 6 Hotel Modern Lodge, 1, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 4960. Not very modern, but cheap and fairly clean. ₹150 for a single with a shared cold-water bathroom. ₹100-250.
- Hotel Royal Palace, ☏ +91 33 2252 5280, +91 33 2252 4178. Clean and large A/C & non-A/C rooms with private bath, TV, STD/ISD. ₹350-750.
- 7 Seacom Inn YMCA (Young Men's Christian Association), 25, Chowringhee Rd (near corner with Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2249 2192, chowringheeymca@yahoo.com. An extremely drab and dark hotel that appears not to have received a lick of paint since its founding in the mid-19th century. However, in some ways, that is the hotel's distinctive charm, and so it may appeal to strict traditionalists. There is a heritage café on the first floor (see #Eat), with the balcony offers a great view of the buzzing city below. Non A/C single ₹600, with A/C ₹850.
- 8 Sunflower Guest House, 7, Royd St (200 m away intersection Park St and Mirza Ghalib St), ☏ +91 33 2229 9401, +91 33 2229 8388, sunflowerguesthouse@gmail.com. Clean and great location. Those who tote lots of luggage be warned there are stairs to climb to the top floor reception. ₹1,350 double.
Mid-range
[edit]- 9 1 Chowringhee Hotel, 1/A, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 89614 97767. Check-in: midnight, check-out: noon.
- 10 DK international Hotel, 11/1A Marquis St (near to Colin St corner), ☏ +91 33 2252 2540, +91 33 2252 2666, dkinhotel@gmail.com. All rooms AC and breakfast included. Close to the Bangladesh bus stations. There are better deals out there but not quite as new as this place. Double from ₹1,800+tax.
- 11 Hotel Lindsay, 8A/8B Lindsay St, ☏ +91 33 3021 8666, sales@hotellindsay.com. The hotel is well-lit and clean. Its facilities, including a room minibar, hot water, tea and coffee, make it a good value four-star property. ₹4,600 double.
- 12 Housez 43, 43 Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2227 6020, +91 7595067173, booking.housez43@thesparkhotels.com. All rooms equipped with air-conditioning, TV, and private bath. Rates start at ₹4,950.
- 13 The Senator, 15, Camac St, ☏ +91 33 2289 3000. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon.
- 14 Siamton Inn - A Cygnett Collection, 56, Park St, ☏ +91 85954 50450. Check-in: noon, check-out: 11AM. ₹4,900-5,000.
Splurge
[edit]
- 15 The Astor, 15, Shakespeare Sarani, ☏ +91 33 22829957, fax: +91 33 22827430, sales@astorkolkata.com. Double: ₹5,900-10,200.
- 16 Elgin Fairlawn, 13/A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1510, +91 33 2252 8767, fairlawn@cal.vsnl.net.in. The building dates to 1783 with many colonial-era relics. Single: ₹5,000-5,600, double: ₹7,550-8,400.
- 17 The Golden Parkk, 13, Ho Chi Minh Sarani, ☏ +91 33 22883939, fax: +91 33 22889600, sales@thegoldenpark.com. From ₹8,000.
- 18 Kenilworth Hotel, 1 & 2, Little Russel St, ☏ +91 33 2282 3939, fax: +91 33 2282 5136, +91 33 2282 3940, +91 33 6621 4100, reservationkol@kenilworthhotels.com. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. ₹6,900-8,000.
- 19 The Oberoi Grand, 15, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249 2323, toll-free: 1800-11-2030, fax: +91 33 2249 9427, reservations@oberoigroup.com. US$375-1,375, ₹10,000.
- 20 The Park Hotel, 17, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2249 3121, fax: +91 33 2249 4000, resv.cal@theparkhotels.com. The unassuming exterior hides an elegant and homely interior with stylish Indian features. Drink at Aqua (First Floor), Roxy (Ground Floor), and Someplace Else (Ground Floor). ₹9,950-12,200.
- 21 Peerless Inn, 12 Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 4400 3900. From ₹10,000.
- 22 Hotel Walson, 5A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1512, +91 99033 29977, bawawalson@bawahotels.com. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. An upscale new venue that's breaking the trend from the Sudder St backpacker tide. 29 rooms ₹6,000-6,200.
Stay safe
[edit]Although most of Esplanade is considered safe, one noted problem here is the drug dealers around Sudder Street. However, as the dealers obviously do not want to draw undue attention to their activity, they are not persistent and are rarely a threat.
Police stations
[edit]Connect
[edit]There are other smaller internet cafes on Sudder St such as Net Freaks, but they are often very busy.
- 3 Gopal's Planet, 7 Tottie Ln (Coming from Sudder St, walk 50m (150ft) into Tottie Ln. On your left-hand side, same building as Raj's Guesthouse, ground floor), ☏ +91 9674273616, gopalsplanet@gmail.com. 8AM-11PM. Friendly, quiet internet cafe off Sudder Street with relatively modern computers, AC and free chai (with Wi-Fi, printers, phone calls, etc.) They also rent bicycles and sell train tickets. Their coffee and snacks are good as well.
- 4 Hotline Services, 7, Sudder St (near the Astoria Hotel, at the back of the parking lot between Roop Shringar clothing shop and Metro Beauty Parlour. Identified with a large illuminated sign in red). It has a room jam-packed with high-speed computers, and charges ₹15/hr. They also sell CDs of various styles of Indian music for around ₹150/each and have a selection of hand-woven material and cotton clothing from all over India. The hotline also provides a coffee and snack service.
Cope
[edit]Police stations
[edit]- 5 Maidan Police Station, ☏ +91 33 2223 2462, +91 33 2223 4551, +91 33 2248 0100, +91 62922 58104, maidanps@kolkatapolice.gov.in.
- 6 Park Street Police Station, 89, Park St, ☏ +91 33 2226 8321, parkstreetps@kolkatapolice.gov.in.
- 7 Shakespeare Sarani Police Station, ☏ +91 33 2281 2541, spsaranips@kolkatapolice.gov.in.