Konye Urgench

Konye Urgench (Turkmen: Köneürgenç and also written Konye-Urgench, Old Urgench, or Urganj) is a city in Dashoguz Province, Turkmenistan. The former capital of the historically-important region of Khwarezmia, today Konye Urgench is an impressive collection of ruins that haven't been restored. Its proximity to the Turkmenistan-Uzbekistan border and to Khiva results in Konye Urgench being the first (or last) thing many travelers see when visiting Turkmenistan.

Understand

The town was called Gurganch from the 10th century CE onward and is now called Konye Urgench (Old Urgench), as the inhabitants moved to modern Urgench in Uzbekistan in the 17th century.

While the exact date of the city's founding is unknown, historical records indicated that it existed in some scope before 712, which is when Arab forces conquered it. The city emerged at a strategic point along the central Eurasian trade routes: here, the east-west Xi'an-Constantinople route (the main "Silk Road") intersected with the north-south Volga-Persia route (along which travelers like Ibn Fadlan visited the Russians and Volga Bulgars). While Konye Urgench was at its height, the Amu Darya river flowed into the Caspian Sea; one of the reasons the city was eventually abandoned was due to the river shifting to the Aral Sea in the 16th century.

Around the year 1000 CE the Emir Mamun unified the region of Khwarezmia, and Konye Urgench was made its capital. Khwarezmia was a powerful and strategically important region during the Middle Ages, and many important scholars from the Islamic Golden Age called Konye Urgench their home. Indeed, al-Khwarizmi, the founder/inventor of algebra, lived and taught in Konye Urgench (although it's unknown still if he made the discovery at the university in Konye Urgench or while he was at Baghdad). Konye Urgench became one of the centers of the Islamic world and was called "the heart of Islam" and "the capital of a thousand wise men". Great scholars such as al-Biruni (Abu Reikhan Biruni) and Avicenna (Abu Ali ibn Sina) lived here.

In the early 13th century the caliph of Khwarezmia, Mohammad Shah II, made what is perhaps the greatest and most influential diplomatic blunder in history, when he ordered the murder of Chinggis Khan's envoys. In response, the Khan sacked the city, razing it to the ground in one of the most disastrous massacres in history, before spending the next few months chasing the Shah further south into the Persian world before the Shah's eventual death. Nearly the entire population of Konye Urgench's Iranian population was wiped out during the massacre, paving the way for various Turkic peoples to migrate into the city. Chief among these peoples were the sedentary Uzbeks, but the city's role as a geographic hub meant that the nomadic Turkmens also began to settle in and around the city.

After its conquest by the Mongols in the 13th century, the city became an important trade center again. The Arabic traveler of the 1300s, Ibn Battuta, described Konye Urgench as "the biggest among the Turkish cities with broad streets and splendid bazaars". The main part of the magnificent monuments in Konye Urgench were built during the reign of Kutlug Timur and his wife Turabek Khanym. Konye Urgench suffered another devastating destruction at the hands of Timur (also called Tamurlane), who was upset that the Silk Road routes were bypassing his capital of Samarkand in favor of Konye Urgench. So, to redirect the flow of commerce, he ordered the city destroyed.

In the post-Timurid years, the city was largely abandoned, with the Turkmens opting to settle in new constructions just outside the old city. When the Amu Darya changed its course in the 16th century, the population moved to the modern city of Urgench, and Konye Urgench was left to both the sands of time and the sands of the Karakum.

Konye Urgench was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. Unlike practically every other Silk Road town in Central Asia, Konye Urgench has been deliberately not restored. The only restorations at the site are those needed to keep the buildings from collapsing. That means that (with the exception of the yellow bricks used in the structural restorations) what you see is entirely original, including the tilework on and in the domes.

Get in

By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines operates several daily flights from Ashgabat to Dashoguz, which is about an hour and a half east of the city. You will need to arrange transport between the two sites; there are no shuttles or buses.

By bus or taxi

There are frequent buses and marshrutkas from Ashgabat (US$4, 10 to 12 hours) and from Dashogus (US$0.50, 2 hours). Taxis from Ashgabat cost about US$6 per seat or US$24 for the whole car, from Dashoguz US$0.75 per seat or US$3.50 for the whole car. The bus station is outside town, near the Gürgenc Hotel. From there you will need a taxi to the town centre.

By car

Konye Urgench is about 100 km from Dashoguz and 480 km from Ashgabat. The road between the two cities is varied in quality. As it is a mostly-rural provincial road, you will encounter farm machinery and delivery trucks all along the road.

Get around

There is no public transport in Konye Urgench. The sights of Konye Urgench are spread over the town. A taxi to the most distant monuments (Turabeg Khanym Mausoleum, Sultan Tekesh Mausoleum, Kyrk Molla and Il-Arslan Mausoleum) and back will cost about US$2 including waiting time.

See

Nedjameddin Kubra Mausoleum was built in the 14th century. It is considered as the holiest place in Konye Urgench. Nedjameddin Kubra lived in the 12th/13th centuries. He was born in Khiva and became a famous religious teacher known as 'designer of saints'. He left several treatises on mystic experiences, founded an important Sufic order and was killed by the Mongols.
Konye Urgench Museum in the modern Dash mosque (US$1, W-M 08:00-13:90, 14:00-16:00). Some rooms contain ethnographic exhibits including a pottery workshop and carpet looms.

The most interesting monuments are on both sides the Ashgabat road about 1 km south of the town. Admission is US$1, camera US$0.70, open from 08:00 to 18:00.

Turabeg Khanym Mausoleum is one of Central Asia's most beautiful buildings. It was built in the 14th century by Kutlug Timur for his wife Turabeg Khanum. Its portal with a height of 21 m and a breadth of 14 m is richly decorated with majolicas. The central building measuring about 100 m² is also ornamented with colourful tiles. The interior of the dome (height: 20 m) shows 365 stars symbolizing the days of the year, 12 open and 12 closed arches symbolize the hours of day and night, 12 bigger arches symbolize the 12 months and 4 big windows the four seasons.
Kutlug Timur Minaret was begun in the 11th century and finished in the 14th century unter Kutlug Timur. It was the minaret of the main mosque in Konye Urgench. With a height of 60 m, it is the highest minaret in Central Asia. The minaret is divided by 18 belts with an ornament and 3 belts with Kufi inscriptions.
Sultan Tekish Mausoleum is the mausoleum of Sultan Tekish, shah of Khorezm in the 12th century, who conquered a huge territory from the Aral Sea the Persian Gulf and from what is today Iran to the Pamir. This mausoleum is one of the few monuments in Konye Urgench surviving from pre-Mongol times. The dome was richly decorated with blue tiles and geometrical patterns. The mausoleum was 30 m high and serves as a lighthouse in the desert and as a symbol of authority (as it stood high above ordinary houses).
Kerk Mollah (Hill of the 40 mullahs) is one of the best known places of pilgrimage in Turkmenistan.
Il-Arshan Mausoleum is Konye Urgench's oldest surviving monument. It contains the grave of Il Arslan, the father of Sultan Tekish. The dome in the form of a tent and the facade of the monument with a pattern of bricks are the first of this type and were the prototype for similar buildings in Samarkand.
Minaret of Mamum. The minaret of the 10th to 11th century collapsed about 100 years ago. The foundation slab was found indicating that the minaret was constructed by order of Shah Mamun.

Ib-Khadzhib Madrasa. 14th to 16th century.
Mausoleum of Fakhr ad-Din Razi. 13th century.
Mausoleum of Azizan Al-Ramatani. 13th to 14th century.
Mausoleum of Seid Ahmed. 12th to 14th century.
Mausoleum of Piryarveli. 13th century.
Mausoleum of Gulidergan. 12th century.
Mauseoleum of Khorezimbag. 13th to 18th century.
Mausoleum of Dashgala. 14th to 16th century.
Mausoleum of Matkarim Ishan. 19th to 20th century.
Mausoleum of Sultan Ali. 16th century.
Mausoleum of Dashmedzhet. 20th century.
Ak Kala Fortress. 1st to 13th century.
Izmukshir. The ancient city of Zamakshar with magnificent fortress ruins was the birthplace of the great 10th century philosopher Az-Zamakshari.
Dashmechet Madrasah (80 m east of the Nadzhimetdin Kuvra Mausoleum). The Madrasah was erected in the beginning of the 20th century. It is a one-storey brick building with a high portal, 4 towers and 19 living rooms for the students.

Do

Wander around the ruins and explore the history of one of the world's historic cultural capitals.

Buy

Aside from some small souvenir stands near the Turabeg Khanym Mausoleum and the Nedjameddin Kubra Mausoleum, there are no stores near the sites. Stores within the surrounding town are of little interest to the traveler, as they are the types of stores one would find in any human settlement (grocery stores, appliance stores, etc.).

Eat

Bedev Cafe, Azadi köcesi, ☏ +993 347 21044. 07:00 to 21:00. US$3.

Drink

Sleep

Gürgench Hotel, Dashogus Köcesi (out of town). No running water, pit toilets outside. US$6.
Chapayev Guesthouse (on the road between the town and the Uzbekistan border post, not signposted). Only recommended if you have your own transport. US$2.50.

There is no comfortable hotel in Konye Urgench. It is better to stay overnight at Dashoguz.

Many tourists continue to the Darwaza gas crater and spend the night in a yurt camp in the desert. It's a 5 hour drive over an incredibly torn-up and pothole-y road between Konye Urgench and Darwaza.

Respect

The city is both figuratively and literally a graveyard. After the two great destructions, the Turkmen who moved into the area buried their dead within the site (which is one reason it was preserved). Many of these graves have been removed and moved elsewhere, but many remain. Treat the area with some reverence; stay on the paved paths.

As many of the remaining buildings were themselves built as tombs or mausolea, there are many Turkmen and Uzbek pilgrims who come to the site to pray. If you enter a tomb, be quiet or keep noises to a minimum, especially if someone is there praying.