Wat Sen, Luang Prabang

Haw Kam

Luang Prabang (Lao: ຫຼວງພຣະບາງ, pronounced Loo-ang pah-bang and also spelled Louangphrabang, is the former capital of Laos and a UNESCO World Heritage city.

Understand

Set at the confluence of two rivers that almost surround the town, and beneath a temple-topped hill, Luang Prabang is a wonderful patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture, reminders of when Laos was part of the French colony of Indochina. Golden-roofed wats (temples), decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha, sit under the gaze of wrap-around teak balconies and 19th-century shuttered windows. All of this is set against a backdrop of verdant greenery and rugged mountains.

Luang Prabang is a relatively small city with an atmospheric and charming personality. With UNESCO so closely involved and a largely responsible group of local business owners, the pressures of mass tourism have been held at bay, but for how much longer remains to be seen. Restaurants in the main street cater for luxury tourists. More typical Lao venues can still be found along the Mekong.

History

Luang Prabang rose to prominence as the capital of the first Lao kingdom (Lan Xang, land of the million elephants) from 1353. The city owes its present name to the Pha Bang, a revered Buddha image (now in the Royal Palace Museum) which was brought to the city by King Visoun during the golden age of Lan Xang in the early 1500s.

The fragmentation of the Lao kingdom at the end of the 16th century left Luang Prabang a militarily weak independent city state paying tribute to surrounding kingdoms. The 1887 sacking of the city by the Chinese Haw led the Luang Prabang monarchy to accept the protection of the French, whose influence led to the construction of the many fine colonial villas that sit harmoniously alongside traditional Lao architecture.

The city fell into decline in the latter half of the 20th century following the reluctant withdrawal of the French, and the 1975 revolution which brought an end to the Luang Prabang monarchy. The relative poverty of newly independent Laos perhaps helped save Luang Prabang from the ravages of 20th-century city planning.

The reopening of Laos to tourism in 1989 resulted in a remarkable turnaround in the city's fortunes, as crumbling timber houses and colonial mansions were sensitively restored and transformed into immaculate guesthouses and boutique hotels. In 1995 the city was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Get in

By plane

• 1 Luang Prabang International Airport (LPQ  ^IATA) (4 km north of town). Laos's second largest airport, and as of 2023 offers services to several destinations in the region, including Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, Siem Reap, and Vientiane. (updated Jul 2023)

Visa-on-Arrival is available at the airport, costing US$40 (as of 2022) for most eligible countries, and $20 for citizens of China or Vietnam, plus an extra $1 service fee. You need a passport photo to obtain a visa. If you don't have one, they'll scan your picture from your passport and charge you an additional US dollar.

ASEAN nationals do not need a visa to enter Laos for stays not exceeding 30 days.

Visa extensions are possible at the immigration office opposite the Rama Hotel. The cost is US$2/day plus a US$2 form fee. The process is very easy. Turn up in the morning with your passport and one photo. Fill in a form (in Luang Prabang they do this for you) and come back in the afternoon for your extension.

A tuk-tuk costs 80-100,000 kip (Mar 2020). There is a taxi counter at the exit of the arrival hall. Taxis are a flat rate of 80,000 kip for 1–2 people (as of Dec 2022). If you're traveling light, a walk from the airport to the town center takes about 1 hour.

There are four ATMs just outside the arrival hall.

By train

Luang Prabang railway station

Five high-speed, standard-gauge trains run daily from Vientiane via Phonhong and Vang Vieng, taking two hours to Luang Prabang. Three or four continue north to Muang Xay, Luang Namtha and Boten on the border with China. Another train crosses, allowing four hours for border formalities at Boten / Mo Han, then onward to Kunming South Station for high-speed connections across China. The southbound train leaves Kunming at 08:00 to reach Luang Prabang by 15:50 and Vientiane for 17:40.

Train is by far the fastest, most comfortable way to reach Luang Prabang, but there have been short booking horizons and sold-out trains. See Laos#By train for the latest and consider booking through a travel agent.

2 Luang Prabang railway station is 12 km east of the old city. A seat on a shared minibus costs a fixed 40,000 kip ($2, November 2024). You find the minibuses once you leave the train station and go down the stairs. There are tents where you can buy the tickets for the minibus. To get to the station from the city center, have your guesthouse or hostel call the minivan for you (do not follow the timetable from the van stop). The railway station is huge and clean. As of January 2024, there are toilets, Cafe Amazon and a small shop to buy drinks and snacks, as well as two ATMs outside the station entrance (to your left.)

By bus

There are two bus stations: Naluang International Bus Station on the main road 2.6 km south west of the town; Northern Bus Station near the airport 3.3 km from the town. Tuk tuk should cost no more than 50,000 kip from town to either.

Tickets booked at travel agent or hotels may cost as much as 100,000 kip above the bus terminal/stations ticket counter price, with little added real added value. Essentially the agent arranges a tuk tuk to take you from your hotel to the bus terminal, at which point they buy a minibus ticket for you. For this 'convenience' the tuk tuk usually collects you one hour prior to the scheduled minibus departure, which can then delayed. Tuk tuk should cost no more than 50,000 kip from anywhere in the town to any bus station.

Book tickets in advance, particularly for VIP buses as they have reserved seats. You don't want to end up sitting next to the toilet.

• Chiang Mai - this bus direct to Chiang Mai costs 1,500 baht one-way. Total journey time is 18 hours. The bus will use the new Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge from Huay Xai to Chiang Kong.
• Vang Vieng - the air conditioned VIP bus costs approximately 150,000 kip, the same price as the Vientiane bus. Minibuses leave from Vang Vieng at 09:00 and cost 100,000 kip. The minibus station is just north of the city. The trip takes 6–7 hours (not the 5 that travel agents advertise). Rte 13, along which the bus travels, passes through the mountains and twists and turns uncomfortably for most of the journey. This is not a trip to make on a full stomach or if you are feeling queasy.
• Vientiane - air-con VIP with reclining seats costs 150,000 kip while an air-con VIP sleeper bus costs 165,000 kip if booked through an agent. Express buses (no air-con) bought at the station are 110,000 kip. Tickets purchased in Vientiane to Luang Prabang are more expensive than those purchased in Luang Prabang. A 12-hr trip, not 9 hr as they claim, a total of 13 hours including the 1-hr meal time.

The bus follows Rte 13 south, which has been upgraded and is now pretty comfortable. Comparing pluses and minuses for VIP sleeper/VIP seats to Express for night trips, not much difference. If taking the trip at night, there is no need for air-con. Those prone to motion sickness should know that this trip travels a winding, mountainous road.

For seats-only buses, there is no toilet and you should relieve yourself before departing because the stopover at the restaurant is 4 hours away, and the last is at the destination station. Check though, because not all tour companies offer free pick-up from a passenger's residence in the quoted price.

• Muang Xay - takes about 5 hours. Costs 40,000 kip and points onward, such as Luang Namtha, are travelled by public minibus only. Big backpacks are carried on the roof. Reservations are usually not necessary. Go early in order to secure a good seat.
• Luang Namtha - takes 8–9 hours and costs 90,000 kip. Parts of the road leading from Oudomxay (intermediate stop between Luang Prabang and Luang Namtha) are still under construction and are quite bumpy. Direct local bus via Muang Xay at 09:00. Otherwise take a bus to Muang Xay and switch there.
• Nong Khiaw - 3 hours away by public bus from the Northern Bus Station or 8-10 hr by boat for about 110,000 kip. From there boats connect to scenic Muang Ngoi Neua.
• Huay Xai - up to 15 hours away. Public buses leave at 09:00 (arriving at 24:00) or 17:00 (arriving at 08:00. A normal sleeping bus, not a sleeper). Costs 135,000 kip. VIP buses leave on alternating days, tickets purchased at the Northern Bus Station will cost 35,000 kip, less than if purchased at an agent in town.
• Phonsavan - Minivan departs from Naluang bus terminal at 0830hr and takes 11 hours (!) for the 260km trip (Road 13 then Road 7) due to extremely poor road conditions. ticket 255,000 kip from bus terminal (Jul 2024). Or arrange via your hotel or travel agency to be picked up and taken to the minibus station. You can stay on the minibus until it unloads the local people in the centre of Luang Prabang though tuk-tuk drivers may try to make you get off earlier at the bus station. Minivan terminates at Xiengkhouang Bus Station in Phonsavan which is more than 2km from Phonsavan town.
• Hanoi by long-distance bus (make sure you have the Vietnamese visa beforehand), 360,000 kip, 24 hours direct bus. If you require a Vietnamese visa, there is a Vietnamese Consulate in town that can issue visas (next day US$70). If heading to Hanoi, you can buy a ticket from a tour agent, or walk to the Southern Bus Station (30-min walk) and buy it yourself cheaper. You shouldn't buy the ticket at the station itself, but opposite the station you'll see some buses waiting and there will be an office of the Naluang Travel Company. They are the ones who operate the buses, so if you buy anywhere else the ticket will be more expensive. They claim to sell a ticket to Hanoi at the Northern Bus Station and for only 150,000 kip, but this will take you only to the border and then you'll be left at the mercy of the local drivers who can charge you any amount, since you're in the middle of nowhere. Don't mistake the Northern bus station with the Southern.
• Loei - This connection goes once a day to the province capital Loei in Thailand. Buses leave Loei at 08:00 and the return journey from Luang Prabang leaves at 07:00. The fare is 700 baht one way and journey time is approximately 10 hours. From Loei there are 4 overnight buses and one day bus to Bangkok. For those going directly from Luang Prabang to Bangkok this allows to bypass Vientiane.

BanNaluang Bus Station (South Bus Station)

To	Departs	Kip	Duration (hr)	Comments	Updated
Sainyabuli	09:00, 14:00	100,000			Jan 2023
Phonsavan (Local)	08:30	80,000			Jun 2011
Phonsavan (air-con)	08:30	95,000			Mar 2020
Phonsavan (VIP)	08:30	255,000			Jul 2024
Vang Vieng (air-con)	09:30	90,000	6-7 hr		Jun 2011
Vang Vieng (VIP)	09:30	105,000			Jun 2011
Vientiane (Local)	06:30, 08:30, 11:00, 14:00, 16:30, 17:00, 18:30	110,000			Jun 2011
Vientiane (VIP)	08:00, 09:00 (?), 19:30, 20:30	145,000	12 hr		Jun 2013
Vinh (Vietnam)	W and Sa, 18:30	200,000			Jun 2011
Hanoi (Vietnam)	Daily except Th, 18:00	360,000	24 hr		May 2012

A shared tuk-tuk from the South station to your hotel in town will cost 20,000 kip per person (Mar 2020).

By car

Hwy 13 connects Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng and Vientiane in the south and via Hwy 1 to the north. Hwy 13 is sealed and in relatively good shape during dry season all the way to Vientiane. Simply put, it is a long, bumpy and winding road trip. The road smacks of a lunar landscape and there are countless potholes due to poor quality surface, the top layer eroded to reveal the gravelly underlayer, which means a really bumpy ride. Although there have been incidents of violence along this stretch of road, it is now safe.

By boat

Boats ply the Mekong to and from Huay Xai at the Thai border, stopping in Pakbeng where you can catch overland connections towards the northeast and the border with China. The trip takes 2 days (each day about 9 hours) by slow boat, or 6 bone-rattling hours by speedboat. There are also operators offering 2-day "luxury" cruises.

Expect to spend the night in Pakbeng if you're taking a slow boat (the safest option), or to arrive in Luang Prabang deaf, shaken and either exhausted or exhilarated from six hours in a speedboat. There is also a twice-weekly "one day comfortable boat" between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai, but the cost is significantly higher.

Slow boats

Slow boats leave every day, the last one at 11:00. The trip from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai costs at least 220,000 kip (Mar 2014), the trip to Luang Prabang from Huay Xai costs 900 baht (Sep 2011). The slow boat leaves Luang Prabang at about 08:30, from a pier that is 10 km away from the town centre (a tuk-tuk costs 50-60 baht per person) and arrives around 18:00 at Pakbeng. It is common to have to switch to a different boat in Pakbeng, so you may end up in a boat of higher or lower quality for the second half of the journey. Two day boats have comfortable (car) seats and it is no longer necessary to purchase any cushions. Arriving in Huay Xai, it's best to take a quick tuk-tuk from the border crossing to the city centre for 50 baht.

The slow boat is generally packed, so much so that there may not enough seats to go round. Arriving early will mean a longer day, but most likely a better seat, towards the front and away from the engine.

The slow boat trip proceeds in a pleasant 20–30 km/hr and offers nice views of nature and village life on the banks of the Mekong. Most of the passengers are foreign tourists. Occasional locals take the boat only for short hops between the riverside villages, but prefer to take the bus for the full distance from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. So you won't be able to observe any local boat travellers, as the boat ride offers just the usual sight of tourists drinking Beerlao for 20,000 kip.

As of January 2022, Huay Xay-Pakbeng-Luang Prabang tickets purchased directly at the slow boat pier are 220,000 kip, which is a bargain for one of the most scenic trips in the world. There is no need to book ahead a 2-day ticket all the way to Luang Prabang in Huay Xay. You can also just buy a ticket to Pakbeng (125 kkip) and the onward journey to Luang Prabang upon boarding in Pakbeng (115 kkip). See the Pakbeng page for more information on the slowboats.

There is no public boat service to Vientiane, but it may be possible to do the trip by private tourist boat when the water levels are high enough. Read more about fast and slow boats in the Laos country guide.

Speedboats

If you choose to travel on the speedboat (a light canoe with a very powerful engine), a crash helmet and life-jacket should be provided. It is not recommended you travel in a speedboat without this essential safety equipment. It is also recommended that you make your bags as waterproof or water-resistant as possible and wear a rain jacket. The boat can generate quite a bit of spray, plus any showers you might encounter along the way will sting like needles against any exposed skin. On sunny days, sunscreen is invaluable as there is no roof or shade on these speed machines. The journey to Huay Xai can be reduced to as few as 4 hours in the wet season, with a lunch stop at Pak Beng. However, some consider this means of transportation less safe, especially in the dry season. Earplugs are strongly recommended. Those who are concerned about creating as little environmental impact as possible may want avoid speedboats, as they are heavier polluters than the slower options. Travel agents in LP will sell the tickets for 320,000-370,000 kip. You will need a minivan to take you the 10 km north to the fast boat pier.

There seems to be a reluctance to take foreigners on the speedboat. You sit there watching as speedboat after speedboat leaves without you on them. The phrases "come back tomorrow" and "just wait, wait", are repeated a lot. If you are in a hurry, an extra payment may encourage an earlier departure. This is definitely not a means of transport to be relied on. It is a good idea to work out with your fellow boat passengers to remove the seat dividers in the fast boat which allow you more space to move around as long as you don't mind a bit of contact. It will be better than being jammed in one place for the whole trip. The speed boats have been pulling a scam where you are dropped off 10 km outside of Luang Prabang at a small bamboo dock. Refuse to get off here and force them to take you two minutes further down river to the Luang Prabang boat dock. If you are forced to get off before Luang Prabang, the tuk-tuk driver may demand up to US$15 per person. The cost should not be more than US$5 for everyone in your party, but the tuk-tuk is your only option into town.

Luxury cruise

The third option is to take a luxury cruise. The major operators are Luang Say, Nagi of Mekong, and Shompoo, all of which operate two-day cruises from/to Huay Xai that stop in Pakbeng for the night. Although the journey takes as long as taking the slow boat, these operators offer vastly superior facilities and equipment than public slow boats, and you should be prepared to pay a premium for it. Tickets for all operators can be bought at most travel agents in town. Prices per person, including twin-share accommodation in Pak Beng, vary from US$160 (Nagi) to US$425 (Luang Say), but prices fluctuate widely depending on season and demand.

All cruises follow roughly the same itinerary. Departure from Huay Xai pier is around 9 AM, with a stop to observe rural life along the Mekong and observe minorities. The journey to Pakbeng takes 7 to 8 hours, arriving in Pakbeng before sunset. On the second day the boat leaves at 08:00. A short stop is made to visit a hilltribe village where you can watch the traditional process of Lao whisky production. After lunch the boat stops at Pak Ou village at the mouth of the Nam Ou River, where you visit the Tam Thing Caves of a Thousand Buddhas. The boat arrives at Luang Prabang between 16:00 and 17:00.

Get around

Luang Prabang's Old Town is only about 1.5 km long and 500 meters wide, which makes it small enough to comfortably cover on foot, and this is in fact the only way to climb Phousi Hill. The city is also quite flat, which makes cycling an attractive option, although the ever-increasing traffic makes this dangerous at times.

For longer trips, your options are basically negotiating with open-air tuk-tuks, or arranging a tour package with your hotel or a travel agent, which will likely see you crammed into one of the ubiquitous silver Toyota minivans. (Large buses and trucks are both banned in the old town.) Prices for both are always per person unless you explicitly negotiate a charter. Loca ridehailing is also available.

See

Arts and crafts

• 1 Ock Pop Tok Living Craft Centre, Ban Saylom (on the banks of the Mekong 2 km south of the city), ☏ +856 71 212 597. An informative free tour to all visitors (last tour at 16:30). Operating as a fair trade traditional weaving centre, you can take classes in bamboo/textile weaving, dye your own silk, draw your own batik or just relax at the Mekong garden cafe. A free tuk-tuk departs daily from the Ock Pop Tok shop in the city at 10:00, 12:00 and 14:00, with other times possible by agreement. 
• 2 Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre, Ban Khamyong, ☏ +856 71 253 364, information@taeclaos.org. This small, but perfectly formed museum is dedicated to the ethnic cultures of Laos. Find out more about the groups that make Laos unique and enrich your visit to Luang Prabang. Closed on Mondays, and occasionally other times for exhibitions. On site shop and cafe, with an outlet shop close to the Ock Pop Tok shop. 30,000 kip. (updated Dec 2023)
• 3 Heuan Chan Heritage House. 09:00-17:00. A museum with one the few remaining pre-colonisation houses. It also features an area to dress in costumes, learn different crafting technique and quite a good cafe for lunch. 30,000 kip. (updated Jan 2024)

Local landmarks and culture

Alms ceremony

• 4 Alms ceremony (Sai Bat), Sisavangvong Rd. Daily 05:00-06:00. Monks at dawn collect alms of rice from kneeling villagers (and early-rising tourists). Ask your guesthouse host to assist you the day before in preparing if you'd like to get up and give alms in the morning. The alms giving ceremony is one which, while picturesque, is not without its detractors. Unscrupulous local merchants have used the eagerness of tourists to participate in this tradition as a means of making easy money. They sometimes sell unsuitable, stale and even unsafe food, resulting in monks falling ill after having consumed the offerings, Hence the growing resistance to continuing the tradition. The government, however, has made it clear that the monks must continue the custom or be replaced by lay persons clothed in saffron robes in order to keep up appearances, thereby maintaining tourist revenue. If you wish to participate in this ceremony, prepare the food or fruit yourself. Avoid giving food of dodgy quality. Another problem is the rampant photography: while a photo might look nice in your collection, think about how it must feel for the monks to have hundreds of tourists photographing them every day. Some lowlifes even stand next to the monks, blinding them with flashbulbs. Consider watching this old tradition from a distance instead of degrading it. 
• 5 Royal Palace National Museum (ຫໍຄຳ Haw Kham). 08:00-11:30 and 13:30-16:00. The former royal palace, now a national museum. It is not a national history museum however. You pass through the state rooms and the private rooms of the royal family and can see the collection of official cars. No photos, videos, bags, or shoes allowed, free locker provided. No bare shoulders, midriffs or knees; you can rent a cloth for 5,000 kip at the locker room if needed. Also on the grounds of the palace is the former royal temple. 30,000 kip. (updated Oct 2022)
• 6 Royal Ballet Theatre (ຫໍຄຳ Haw Kham). Oct-Mar: 18:00, Mar-Oct: 16:30. Every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evening there is a show featuring one part of the Lao epic Phra Lak Phra Ram. The show is about an hour long and in Lao with story and dance sequences. There are Lao, English and French synopsis available at the ticket desk. The ticket desk opens at least 1/2 an hour before the show and is accessed by entering Royal Palace Museum entrance gate. The museum is closed at this time so entry is free. Curiously the ticket desk is not attended while the museum is open, although they do have the schedule and current ticket prices. Also, the website has a form for tickets, but they do not seem to respond to it. 200,000 kip, 50% for children. (updated Dec 2023)
• 7 Phou Si Hill (ພະທາດພູສີ). Phou Si Hill dominates the city, and you can get a great view of the whole area from the summit. There are trails from both sides of the hill, including one just across the road from the Royal Palace/National Museum, and it's about 320 steps to the top. Sunrise and sunset are the most sensible and rewarding times to go. There is a near-panoramic view from the top. The ticket office closes at 18:30, so climbing to the top is virtually free afterwards, which gives you about 30 minutes before it gets dark. If you take the south path down, you'll go past several temples including one claiming to enshrine the Buddha's (rather large!) footprint. 20,000 kip (children free). (updated Dec 2023)
• 8 Wat Xieng Thong (ວັດຊຽງທອງ) (The entrance is on the by-lane off the main road. Towards the road along the Mekong is only an exit.). 06:00-18:00. The oldest monastery in town and one of the most beautiful. Foreigners: 30,000 kip, Lao nationals: 5,000 kip. (updated Nov 2024)
• 9 Vipassana Temple and Park (Wat Phon Phao;ວັດໂພນເພົາ). This golden temple, highly visible from Phou Si, is a shrine for Buddhists who practice Vipassana meditation.  
• 10 UXO Lao Visitor Centre. M–F 08:00–12:00 and 13:00–16:00. A small information centre with samples of the various UXO (unexploded ordinance) that has been found, information about the scope of the problem and a room with a documentary to watch. Makes the issue just a bit more salient when you see it. Free (donation box). (updated Jan 2024)

Outside the city

The main cascade at Kuang Si

Cascading pools at Kuang Si

• 11 Kuang Si Falls (ຕາດ ກວາງຊີ) (Some 29 km S of Luang Prabang). 08:00-17:30. The stunning Kuang Si Falls are Luang Prabang's top natural attraction. Cascading through multi-level limestone terraces, the color of the water usually varies between milky blue and a deep turquoise, although after heavy rains they can temporarily turn brown. Tuk-tuks and tours deposit you at the parking area, from where free electric golf carts next to the ticket booths shuttle around 1 km up the hill at the park entrance. From here, take the signposted "Foot Trail" to the right, which takes you through the Bear Rescue Centre (below) to the base of the waterfalls.
  There are three tiered pools that are safe for swimming, although you'll want to wear sandals or reef shoes since the rubble can be sharp. There are some basic toilets can be used as changing rooms, as well as the pleasant Green Jungle restaurant that serves up fried rice and the like ($2 and up). If you keep going up, you'll get to the main waterfall that cascades down from a height of nearly 60 meters, a gorgeous sight especially after rain when it fans out. The paved road to the left of the park entrance leads directly here, so it's also where all the tour groups are shunted, and there are plenty of picnic tables if you've packed a lunch.
  A small trail to the left leads via 542 steel steps to the top of the waterfalls, where you'll find a few more pools with a swing and a guy with a boat offering a 200 m punt up the river for 20,000 kip per person. There is also a treetop cafe with great view over the surrounding jungle hills (30,000 kip to enter) and a zipline that brings you back down to the lower basins (US$25). Beware that the signposted route way down the other side of the falls is much steeper than the way up and can be extremely muddy and slippery, so do not attempt this after rain or without proper shoes.
  A seat on a shared tuk-tuk to the falls and back including 3–4 hours waiting time costs around US$6, as does a cheap scooter rental for one day, while a private charter for 4-5 runs around US$22–25. The same in an air-conditioned minivan runs around US$12/50 shared/chartered. It's worth getting here as early as you can to beat the crowds and the heat, although the forest is nice and shady. The road is twisty but fully paved and takes around 45 minutes one way, and there are plenty of restaurants and shops both at the ticketing point and the park entrance. Every travel agent and hotel in Luang Prabang also runs Kuang Si tours, which typically tack on a mediocre lunch and a visit to one of the elephant centers. Foreigners: 60,000 kip, Lao nationals: 10,000 kip. (updated Nov 2024)

• 12 Bear Rescue Centre (adjacent to the path to the Kuang Si Waterfalls). Operated by the Free the bears charity with various enclosure for endangered Asiatic black bears, both Moon and Sun bears, that have been rescued from poachers. Small gift shop. No entrance fee but donations welcomed. (updated Nov 2022)

• 13 Pak Ou Caves. The famous "Buddha caves" are north of the city on the Mekong and can be reached by road (approximately 1 hr), with a car there and back including waiting to you costing up to 500,000 kip, or river boat (around 1.5 hr). Alternatively, you can hire canoes and a guide for the day, which would allow you to view the beautiful scenery and visit the caves without throngs of other tourists. It's also possible to finish the trip at the "whisky village" where the local Lao lao (rice spirit) is made. There are two caves, one on the entry level and another, the upper caves, on top of the hill. A very steep climb, but worth the effort. A torch is needed to see the upper cave. Simply cross the river at Pak Ou village for 13,000 kip per person (25,000 kip if you're the only one on the boat), walk up the hill and turn right, crossing the school grounds, to find your way to the caves. Motorcycle parking at Pak Ou village 5,000 kip. 20,000 kip. (updated Jun 2023)
• 14 Tad Sae Waterfalls (You must take a river boat to reach the place). Tiered waterfalls which are not as big as Kuang Si, but very beautiful. You can bathe there and elephant rides are available. 15,000 kip.  
• 15 Kuang Si Butterfly Park. 11:00-16:00, closed Thursdays. A butterfly park near Kuang Si waterfalls. On the shuttle to the falls it will pass on the right. A short walk from the entrance to the falls. $10. (updated Jan 2024)

Do

• Big Brother Mouse (off the main street, down a side street next to 3 Nagas Restaurant). M-Sa 09:00-11:00. A worthwhile organisation devoted to encouraging literacy in young adults. Depending on sponsorship and volunteers, it welcomes tourists to help with English conversation and reading practice. They publish and distribute books in Lao and English. Consider buying some books to take as gifts to village children if you travel through Laos. They have another branch in Vientiane. 
• Fair Trek Project. People who love activities and treks may find some interesting interactive tours which are designed to support villages outside of Luang Prabang in the north of Laos. 
• Hike or bike across the river in Chompet (take the ferry across the Mekong River; go to the riverside next to the national museum, where the slow boats arrive; fare is 5,000 kip). Hike or bicycle alongside the river through a few small Hmong villages and past a few temples (10,000 kip admission) and a cave. Beware the children at the temples with the ticket-takers, especially at the temple with the white stairs leading to the water opposite Luang Prabang. They will swarm over tourists' backpacks, and money will later be found missing. Enquiries to police and village officials will not be fruitful. Island map (updated May 2020)
• Lao Red Cross Sauna, Wisunarat Rd (In front of Wat Wisunalat). 09:00-21:00. A traditional Lao sauna and massage, very popular with locals in the afternoon. 1-hour massage 100,000 kip (Oct 2023); sauna 10,000 kip(may be out of date). (updated Dec 2023)
• Lenou's Library, Sisavangvong Road, ☏ +856 71 254 813. A great way to experience Lao village life without a tour bus. The owner started a library and children's English tutoring centre in his house a few years ago and since has been steadily expanding services with help from volunteers. Lenou sometimes organises dinners on the Num Ou river by request and generally seems to appreciate a helping hand. 
• Rent a motorbike. Although prices are high by Southeast Asian standards, riding around the surrounding areas of Luang Prabang is a fantastic way to see the countryside. Fuel for the whole day will cost around 20,000 kip. Common practice is the rental company retains your passport, so make sure they know when you leave and how to recover your passport (or find a shop that doesn't do this). Choose the rental agency carefully, keep the motorcycle safe and take your own lock. Some rental agencies, particularly Khamsay, have been widely accused of stealing bikes after they rent them out to tourists, then demanding US$2,500 compensation from the tourist. Research bike rentals thoroughly before choosing one. US$20-25 per day. (updated Dec 2023)
• 1 MandaLao Elephant Conservation. The first non-riding elephant attraction in Laos. They offer three different tours (morning, afternoon, or all day) where you feed and walk elephants. A shuttle is provided from your hotel with and English guide. They seem genuinely concerned about elephant welfare and have programs to help change perceptions of elephants in Laos away from viewing them as purely beasts of burden. In the high season they do seem to book out a few weeks in advance. They do have an office in Luang Prabang. US$80-150. (updated Jan 2024)
• 2 Elephant Village Sanctuary & Resort (Elephant Village), Sisavangvong Road (on the main road right next to the Royal Palace (there is a big elephant statue outside the office)), ☏ +856 71 252 417, elephantvillagelpq@gmail.com. 09:00 - 22:00. It has 14 elephants. They are kept away from abusive work and cared by veterinarians, and seem well looked after and relaxed. Offers basic elephant rides, or 1 or 2 day mahout course where you learn the commands to control the elephant. You also get to wash the elephants in the Namkhan River which is a lot of fun. (updated Apr 2015)
• 3 Nava Mekong Cruises, ☏ +856 20 5928 5555, info@navamekong.com. 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00. 2 cruises on the Mekong with full meals featuring Lao delicacies. Pak Ou Cave cruise goes upstream & includes a visit to the "1000 Buddhas cave" (entrance fee included) and a whisky village, where passengers are given enough time to visit. Sunset cruise goes downstream & includes a traditional music and dance show. The company strives to be socially responsible & make sure to hire locals from the villages around Luang Prabang, making the experience more authentic & positive for everybody. US$25-30. (updated Apr 2018)

Learn

Cooking classes

This is an enjoyable way to gain insights into Lao culinary methods and traditions. There are at least five substantial cooking class providers in the city, using Lao chefs and instructors. They differ somewhat in style and content, but all include transport, information about Lao cuisine, and eating the dishes afterwards.

• The Bamboo Experience, ☏ +856 20 5696 8889, info@bambooexperience.org. 08:30-13:30 or 16:00-20:30. Located in a village near rice paddy field and bamboo plantation. Not only you'll learn to cook Lao dishes using bamboo shoots as the main ingredient, but as well you'll learn what can be made out of bamboo, play with bamboo stilts, crossbow, attend a small music+dance show by a Hmong man, get a weaving lesson with a local craftsman & make your own small souvenir. 336,000 kip, special rates for families & children. (updated Apr 2018)
• Tamarind (along the Nam Khan River), ☏ +856 20 77770484. 09:00-15:30. Lovely gardens by the water a short ride from the city. Sep 2016: 285,000 kip. 
• Tamnak Lao (Beside their main street restaurant), ☏ +856 71 254670. 10:00-17:00, 17:30-20:30. They offer day and evening courses. For day class, there are 2 mandatory plus 5 optional dishes to choose from (choose only 3) for a total of 5 dishes plus demonstrations only on how to cook sticky rice and Lao chili paste (very good). Variation is not much as 4 of the 7 dishes presented require eggs (standard class). Instruction is no-nonsense and very fast paced, but Mr Lee, the instructor, is very helpful. It starts with demonstration, then hands on. All the dishes made are eaten, so it may be useful to bring a cooking and eating partner. 200,000-250,000 kip. 
• Tum Tum Cheng (on the main street towards the end of the peninsula), ☏ +856 71 252019. Classes have more of a demonstration orientation, with participants helping instructors with various tasks. All courses can be booked at the relevant restaurants. Half-day course for US$38. 
• 4 P 70 Pottery, Cooking and Candle Makimg Classes (Across the seasonal bamboo bridge at the end of the peninsula, close to where the Nam Khan river flows into the Mekong. If the bridge is not there, a 15 min tuktuk ride will also take you there.), ☏ +856 20 54 543 393. Moved in 2024 to this place with lovingly designed interior. Typical Lao dishes such as Laab or mango sticky rice. Asked for dietary requirements multiple times. Also offers pottery and candle making classes. Half-day course for US$37 per person. (updated Nov 2024)

Some of the hotels and guesthouses in town also offer small or private cooking classes for their guests.

Farm visit

• Living Land Farm (outside town on the way to the waterfall). Offers a "rice experience" tour, or you can just stop by this farm. If you visit without a tour, they will still show you around the farm, pointing out the organic vegetables and rice and showing you the traditional tools they use to process rice. 

Buy

Thai baht and USD are widely accepted but the exchange rates vary. There are some ATMs that accept Visa, MasterCard, Maestro and Eurocards. These ATMs are mostly on Sisavangvong Rd near the end of the Night Market. The ATMs dispense currency in Lao kip, and generally allow a maximum withdrawal of 1,000,000 kip with a charge of 20,000 kip. Banque Franco-Lao allows a maximum withdrawal of 2,000,000 kip with a charge of 40,000 kip. Multiple withdrawals are allowed to a daily maximum of 5,000,000 kip. If you arrive by plane, there is an ATM and a money changer at the airport which is only open for a few hours of the day. Also, their rates are significantly worse than the banks in town.

Money changers/exchange For Malaysians, it is best to change ringgit to baht, then change the baht to kip in Laos. This is because they give not so good rates in Laos for Malaysian ringgit.

There are a number of money changers who generally do not offer good rates, and are either on Sisavangvong Rd or in the permanent markets further east. One is next to the ATM near the Night Markets, another is about 50 m further north along the street, in front of one of the first restaurants (looks like a little tollbooth/shack). The rates offered may vary, so shop around before you change. Better maybe to use official money changing services at a bank which are easily found. There are reports of scam by using money changers to take cash advance. They will charge you more in US dollars with a different exchange rate than posted. Even after complaining it's not possible to cancel the transaction.

The Night Market (on Sisavangvong Road) caters to tourists with every kind of souvenir you could want and closes at about 22:00. Particularly good are the duvet covers, cushion covers, and pillow sets. They can even make one up to your dimensions by the next day. It is well worth a look and the hawkers are very pleasant to deal with and amazingly non-pushy by the standard elsewhere in Asia. Traders range from young children to the elderly who usually make crafts, art, and goods by themselves. Good-natured bargaining is advisable, but don't obsess over this and ruin your experience as well as giving the trader a bad day. The quality and design of goods is lower in the market than in the legions of increasingly chic stores in the city. There may be some souvenirs available made from endangered animals. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea creatures (starfish, etc.), fur, feathers, teeth and other animal products. This is the best place to buy lower end souvenirs and hone your bargaining skills.

Laotian aesthetic sense is quite evolved. For instance check out some of the higher end stores:

• Ock Pop Tok, 73/5 Ban Vat Nong, with a shop in the city, ☏ +856 71 253219. An ethical trading company with superb galleries. Also run classes and visits to village weaving facilities. 

Books

Several book stores that sell photocopies to unsuspecting travellers operate in the area. It's worth checking copies as pages can be unreadable or even missing.

• Tamnak Lao Restaurant Book Exchange (In the lane next to the restaurant). A very good selection of books. The exchange operates on a "one for one" basis plus 20,000 kip, and all books are also available for purchase. All of the money raised by the book exchange goes to buying provisions for the Luang Prabang Government Orphanages and Ethnic High Schools. 

During lunch break or siesta time, which starts 12:00 to 13:30, the dry summer sun can be scorching. To spend time comfortably while waiting for the sun to mellow at around 15:30, hang around at the public library across from the National Museum about 4 or 5 buildings down from the US-sponsored reading room. There are old English language newspapers still in circulation. Or better still, surf the net for free from the six Internet stations.

Eat

Or lam pork stew, probably Luang Prabang's most famous dish

Khai phaen roasted algae sheets

There are no multi-national fast food outlets in Luang Prabang. Restaurants line Sisavangvong Rd and the roads along the Mekong and Nam Khan. Food runs the gamut from standard SE Asian backpacker fare to more traditional Lao dishes, including buffalo sausage right up to very high quality French cuisine. There are also numerous market stalls for cheaper food, including baguettes, crepes, and pancakes.

Typical prices for Beerlao is 25,000 kip for a large bottle and 20,000 kip for a small, which generally are standard throughout the country. Most riverside places offer the same prices for beer and similar food, although prices for food can vary wildly. Shop around and don't be shy about asking prices if anything is unclear.

Probably the most recommended food is the Lao version of fried spring roll, vegetable at 3,000 kip or pork at 5,000 kip per piece.

A speciality of Luang Prabang worth trying is khai phaen (ໄຄແຜ່ນ), made by collecting green algae from the Mekong, drying it as sheets and jazzing it up with sesame seeds, chillies, oil, etc. The end product resembles Japanese nori seaweed, and it's widely sold from street stalls, but is not meant to be eaten raw! Instead, find any bar and try it flash-fried, which transforms chewy plastic into a delicious, crispy, salty snack that goes well with beer.

Other local specialities include:

• Or lam (ເອາະຫຼາມ), a mild, herbal pork stew flavored with sakhaan (chili wood), which has an unusual peppery-numbing taste
• French baguettes and other bakery items. Generally very good.
• Local watercress which is very peppery.
• Buffalo steaks and sausages.
• Luang Prabang Khao Soi: spicy clear mince and noodle soup which is very different from the Chiang Mai version

Budget

Colorful buffet at the Luang Prabang night market

Stalls along an alleyway between the night market end of Sisavangvong Rd and the Mekong offers superb Lao street food at bargain prices. Grilled salted catfish is available for 15,000 kip per fish, other types of fish for 20,000. For a somewhat spicy salad for about 10,000 kip, look for vendors with containers filled with cucumber, lime, tomato and sliced green papaya, where they will mix it on the spot with mortar and pestle. If you order BBQ meat from one of the vendors opposite the tables, they will heat it up for you over the charcoal, and you can grab a seat at one of the tables to eat. The tables are quite crowded; it is easier to get a seat later in the evening, after 20:30 or so. The entry to the alley is by the vegan restaurant near the food stall end of the night market, near the traffic circle where the tuk-tuk touts hang out.

• 1 Bamboo Garden Restaurant (opposite Wat Visoun). 08:00-23:00. Cheap Lao food. Popular spot for the expats and GVI volunteers. 40-60,000 kip. 
• Ketmany Restaurant (Walk up ramp from sidewalk, big menu on sidewalk will help you find it). Cheap Lao food. Great selection all for reasonable price, good cheap smoothies. 20-30,000 kip. 
• 2 Khao Soi Street Stall (corner of Inthasome and Sisavangvong Rd in front of tourist information center gate). Luang Prabang Khao Soi street food. Opens around 17:00. Southwest end of night market. 35,000 kip. 
• Hmong Night Market. 17:00-22:00. One food stall says vegetarian and the other "végétalien" (vegan). Approximately 5,000 kip for a plate. Popular with budget travellers, but not an option for those looking for tasty food. Cash only. Eat at your own risk as hygiene is questionable. 
• 3 Nang Tao. 7AM-9PM. Excellent stop for Lao cuisine. Their larb was a favourite in the area. Most of the staff do not speak English, but there is one fellow there that does (and you can point at the menu). 35000LAK. (updated Jan 2024)

Mid-range

• Le Banneton (Opposite Wat Sop, Sisavangvong Rd). Amazing, authentic French bread, tarts, pastries and cakes. Their pain au chocolat are buttery and delicious. Go in the morning as they often run out in the afternoon. 
• Big Tree Cafe. Consistently good Western and Korean food. Under the big tree on the Mekong River. Good service and free Wi-Fi. 
• Blue Lagoon Restaurant (Beside the national museum), ☏ +856 71 253698. Offers Luang Prabang-Lao dishes and Swiss classics as well as a variety of snacks and fresh salads. 
• 4 Joma Bakery Cafe (near the post office at the end of the night market), ☏ +856 71 252292. 07:00-21:00. Free Wi-Fi, air-con on both floors and free full-menu delivery service from 07:00-19:30. Great music and friendly staff. 8,000-43,000 kip. 
• 5 Nisha Restaurant. 09:00-22:00. Popular Indian/Tamil food. Great vegetarian/vegan options but serves (halal) meat as well. 20-50,000 kip. 
• Rosella Fusion Restaurant. Clean and well-cooked food. A small place (blink, and you'll miss it) that looks like a fruit shake place. Locally owned by Lao man who trained at Amantaka Restaurant. Possibly the best steaks in town, certainly great cocktails. Slow service, but worth it. 
• 6 Saffron Caffè (around the corner from L'Elephant Restaurant in Wat Nong village). Excellent coffee. It comes from the surrounding mountains. The banana shake macchiato is recommended. Delicious fresh baked goods such as their cinnamon swirls and banana muffins go quickly. Granola and salad wraps are good. 
• Zurich Bread Artisan Bakery, Sakkaline Rd, ☏ +856 20 58 528 953. Daily 05:00-18:00. Lots of pastries and breakfasts (and bread). 
• Shakes & Crepes (In front of Croissant d'Or on the main street). A no-name place serving delicious shakes for 5,000 kip and fantastic sweet crepes starting at 7,000 kip. 
• Viewpoint Café and Restaurant, Mekong Riverside Rd, Xieng Thong Village (Next to Mekong Riverview Hotel), ☏ +856 71 254900. 07:00-23:00. High quality Lao and Western food. 

Splurge

• 7 L'Elephant (around the corner from Saffron Cafe). A lovely restaurant with a mix of Lao and French foods. The food is extremely good, but has its price. Ingredients are of the highest quality, ranging from French Camembert to Laotian lemongrass and river weeds. The menu is both pricey and some items do not justify the price tag. Great ambience. 
• 8 La Silapa Italian & Lao Restaurant, Phommathat Road (in front of Wat Aham (near Wat Visoun)), info@lasilapa.com. 17:00-23:30. Italian or local food. Particularly good are the Parmesan aubergine, pork lasagna, fresh pasta with mushroom and truffles, and the tiramisú. Big garden (with a Fiat), big room with air-con and nice terrace on the street with free Wi-Fi. Happy hour with Aperol Spritz and wine for 50,000 kip, and buy one get one free. 
• The Brothers House, Kingkitsarath Road 10 (at the Nam Khan riverside of Mount Phousie, a few minutes away from main street and night market), ☏ +856 71 255021, thehouselaos@gmail.com. The only Belgian restaurant/bar in Luang Prabang. Excellent price/quality food. It has an appealing range of Belgian beer, cocktails and wine. Known for its lasagna, stews and curries. Recommended for vegetarians. A green bamboo garden with fairy lights confers a pleasant ambience. Attentive staff. 
• Tamarind (on the bank of the Nam Khan River next to Apsara). Specialises in introducing Western tourists to Lao food, so the dishes are offered with explanations and the menu is full of information. Traditional Lao food in sampler format. Platter combinations of dips, salads, etc., as well as set menus. Only a small wine list, but good range of fruit drinks. Popular cooking classes in a garden setting. Sells food products, recipe books. 

Drink

There are a number of places to drink around Luang Prabang, though the late-night club scene is pretty much nonexistent. The liveliest and busiest bars are in a small cluster between Mt Phousi and the Nam Khong.

Luang Prabang's status means that curfews are strictly enforced here. Bars start winding down at 23:00 and close at 23:30 sharp. The only late-night options permitted are outside the main part of town, a discothèque patronised mostly by locals and bizarrely, a ten pin bowling alley.

If you do plan on staying out after hours, check the arrangements with your guesthouse first to avoid being locked out.

If you're simply looking to relax and enjoy the river views, most riverside restaurants have tables outside where you can sit back with a beer or two.

• Books and Tea L'Etranger. Downstairs is a book shop/swap and upstairs is a bar selling drinks and cake in a room covered in cushions for lazing around and reading. Movies everyday at 19:00. A tad greedy and unfriendly on the book exchange business. 
• Hive Bar, Phousi Rd. Closes 23:30 sharp. Established and highly popular watering hole, with cosy brick-lined rooms and an outside terrace. Notable for their ethnic fashion shows at 19:00 most days of the week and their range of Lao Lao cocktails. 
• Morning Glory Cafe (On the quiet end of the main street, after 3 Nagas). Run by a laid-back couple. Thai and Western food. Good wine, by the glass. Garden seating. Temple in front and street life can be enjoyed. 
• Utopia (by the Nam Khan River; follow the signs from near the Hive Bar). 08:00-23:30. Aims to be a relaxing garden by day and tropical jungle lounge by night, when it fills up with backpackers. Gorgeous views along the Nam Khan River, great venue and a laid back crowd, very popular and a good place to meet other backpackers. Free Wi-Fi. When they close everyone is pushed out into tuk-tuks headed for a bowling alley quite a way outside of town (rumored to be run by the Mafia) where the party continues. (updated Jun 2017)

Sleep

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget	Under 120,000 kip
Mid-range	120,000-400,000 kip
Splurge	Over 400,000 kip

Luang Prabang has the best selection of accommodation in Laos, with something to suit every budget. There is everything from tent sites under a roof for 20,000 kip per night up to super luxury at US$1,500 per night.

Don't expect though that the whole kit and caboodle that you can find in Vietnam or Cambodia, air-con, cable TV, Internet, can be found in LP for US$12.

While the big chains have yet to make an appearance, there's plenty of "boutique" accommodation, although this heavily overused word runs the gamut from quirky to luxury. Most of the lanes and alleys all through Luang Prabang have places to stay, with a large selection also found in the lanes south of the Post Office. Free Wi-Fi is quite common in budget guesthouses.

Budget

• 1 Bunthan Guesthouse (ເຮືອນພັກບຸນທັນ). Good, clean rooms with AC. The place itself is very quiet, but the roosters next to it are noisy. 120,000 kip (may be bargained down to 100,000 kip). (updated Jan 2023)
• Chitlathda Guesthouse. Has two wings with decent clean doubles 40,000 kip. Triple room 50,000 kip. Free Wi-Fi and water. From 40,000 kip. 
• Cold River Guesthouse. Run by a local family. It's on the Khan River. Free filtered water and bananas are available. On Saturdays they serve a free home-cooked dinner. 80,000 kip low-season. (Starting at 39 usd, Nov 2024)
• Levady Guesthouse (in a lovely side street 50 m off the main street.). Nice family, wooden rooms and floor, bike rentals, tidy. Double rooms with fan and private bathroom. No Wi-Fi. 250,000 kip. (updated Apr 2023)
• Luang Prabang Backpackers Guesthouse (next to the Nam Khan River's motorcycle/bicycle bridge (a 10-min walk away from the night market)). Clean and comfortable dorm beds (includes free breakfast and coffee). The guesthouse is run by a nice local family who, if you're lucky, will occasionally provide you with delicious Lao BBQ and Lao whisky. Free Wi-Fi, cable TV and filtered water. 40,000 kip. 
• Wat That Guest House & Mala Dressmaker, 2/16 Wat That Rd (close to the Mekong River and a short walk to the night markets), ☏ +856 71 254859, +856 20 55671180, chanm_ph@yahoo.com. A traditional Lao-style home with 3 upstairs rooms, all with self-contained baths and a new cheap room downstairs with a shared bath. Free Wi-Fi, drinking water, and regularly bananas or other fruit. Laundry, coffee, breakfast and bicycle rental. There is a dress shop in front where you can have clothes made, repaired or altered. Dorm 100 000 kop, private room 250 000 kip. (updated Jan 2023)
• Merry Guesthouse. Free filtered water and bananas are available. Not so merry though, the options further down the alley (Cold River and Sysomphone) are more appealing. US$3 with bath outside. (starts at 500k kip)
• Somjith Guesthouse, ☏ +856 71 252756, +856 20 77774883, somjithG_H@gmail.com. Clean rooms with attached or shared bathroom, fan or air-con, free Wi-Fi (but a bit unreliable), laundry service 8,000 kip/kg. From 50,000 kip. 
• Sysomphone Guesthouse, 252-543 Banvisoun 22/4 St (off Vatmou-Enna Rd. Have the Lao Development Bank on your left, walk straight till the T-junction, turn right, then take the second left into the small street; Sysomphone is at the end). Has a good view of Nam Khan River behind the guesthouse and is around a 10 min walk to Sisavangvong Rd. Friendly and helpful family/owner. Free bananas, water, and Wi-Fi. Owner has good info, prepares a free dinner once a week for guests, has sticky rice if you stumble across dinner, collects guests' photographs in an album, and shares things he knows about the Lao people or the country if you ask. Rooms with shared hot-water bathrooms. A newer, cleaner building in the back has fresher rooms for 70,000 kip. 40,000-50,000 kip. (Absorbed by Merry post Covid, then renovated, it seems)
• VannaPhone Guesthouse (10 min away from the airport and about 4 min from the city). Acceptably sized rooms with fairly small bathrooms. The rooms located close to the street are noisy, but the new backrooms are OK. US$10-15. 
• Vong Champa Guesthouse. In a small alley on the Mekong riverfront near the night market. Cheap, quiet, new and spotlessly clean. 80,000 kip. 
• Xayana Guesthouse and X³ Capsule Hotel. Guesthouse in a Lao-style villa in the protected zone. Clean dorms with bathroom/showers inside. Movies are shown in the evening. Extra services are quite expensive: storage of valuables in a safe for 20,000 kip, laundry service 18,000 kip. There are cheaper laundry services nearby. Dorms from USD4 or 30,000 kip, rooms from US$8. 
• October 2023 - Cheapest private room was 100,000 kip, shared bath. Some places seem to have closed or consolidated. Several choices around 150,000 kip.
• November 2024 - 300,000 for a room seems to be the low end, now.

Mid-range

• Kamu Lodge (in a remote location on the Mekong River N of Luang Prabang). This lodge is in an ethnic Kamu village. It purports to offer a sustainable and socially responsible tourism concept. 
• Lao Lu Lodge, Ban Pakham (in a small street 50 m from the Mekong, slightly E of Kitsalat Rd). A rather nice accommodation with a quiet courtyard, close to both the Mekong and the night market. Air-con, hot water, 24/7 free tea and drink water, free Wi-Fi. They offer limited possibilities to buy tickets to other cities. Be aware that the rooms on the ground floor have virtually no daylight. Around 200,000 kip depending on the room. 
• Manichan Guesthouse (near the Night Market). Centrally located, new and clean in green, peaceful environment. "Lao-colonial" -style house with wooden floors and homey feel rooms. Private and shared baths with hot, separate showers. Free coffee corner. Has a balcony with city view. Belgian-Lao management. Air-con an optional extra US$4. Low season: US$7–15, high season: US$12–30 (including breakfast buffet). 
• Merry Swiss Lao. Near Mt Phousi, not on the main street side, but the other side. Rooms have private bath and air conditioning. US$40. 
• Phasith Guesthouse, Chaosisouphan Rd (between Mt Phousi & Nam Kham River, facing back stairs/entrance of Mt Phousi), ☏ +856 71 260420, kolawy@hotmail.com. Local family-run guesthouse in a well-kept restored old building. Central location. The nicely decorated clean rooms have en suite baths with either balconies or gardens attached. Free Wi-Fi, bottled water, bananas provided. Family is friendly and invites guests to join them when they make family trips to local attractions. 
• Rama Hotel. Higher-end guesthouse. Hot water shower and air con. This hotel is quiet with a little traffic noise until about 23:00. US$30 including a decent breakfast.. 
• Sabaidee Guesthouse, 70 Thammikarat Rd. There are lots of good guesthouses along here. This one is good value for a double en suite room with breakfast included. There's a good laundrette just opposite the entrance. US$25. 
• Tha Heua Me Guest House, Souliyavongsa Road, Khem Khong (City centre), ☏ +856 20 55 080 903, noyna_5554@hotmail.com. Family guesthouse close to the main attractions. Each morning at dawn, the orange-dressed Buddhist monks walk just a few metres away from the terrace for the alms-giving ceremony. 
• Thony 1 Guesthouse, Ban Visoun, Chao Chomphou Rd (head for Wat Visoun which is very close by; from the temple just look towards the Nam Khan River and you will see the guesthouse), thony1@laotel.com. This converted family villa is on the bank of the Nam Khan River. Only 10 min walk to the night market and historic centre. Rooms with riverview & family rooms available. US$22-35. 
• Villa Kiengkham (Near the Rama Hotel). Nice, clean, comfortable hotel with friendly staff. US$25. 
• Villa Meung Lao. Guesthouse in the city centre, close to the Royal Palace and the morning market. Rooms offer air-con, TV, Wi-Fi (unreliable) and free water. US$25-30. 
• Hillside - Nature Lifestyle Lodge, ☏ +856 20 58777038, hillsidelaos@gmail.com. Surrounded by protected area, mountains and pristine forests. 12 km from Luang Prabang. Guided and self-guided walks to waterfalls and ethnic villages. Mountain bikes available. Has a very nice swimming pool. Charming double and twin bungalows in the tropical garden, and a family bungalow. Organic garden, restaurant with homemade food. US$55-65. 

Splurge

Colonial grandeur at the Amantaka

• 2 Amantaka. Luxury resort by the Aman group, and probably the most expensive hotel in all of Laos. Set in the large garden estate and graceful colonial buildings of what was once the French hospital, just south of Phousi Hill. Airy, elegant and tranquil throughout, the décor and furnishings reflect the city's French colonial history. Only 24 "suites", some with private pools. Rates include two meals and free transport around the city with a branded tuktuk. If you can't quite justify a night, drop by for a US$10 Beerlao at the poolside bar/restaurant and soak in the ambience, which includes live traditional music in the evenings. From US$1000. 
• Ancient Luang Prabang. On the doorstep of the night market, which is a mixed blessing. A nice, authentic view, but prepare for vendors packing up stalls at 01:00 with the windows being as soundproof as paper. Rooms not quite up to scratch for this price: no shower curtain and cleverly designed taps ensure a wet floor. However, clean and comfortable. Friendly staff and no cost for airport transfer. 
• The Apsara, Kingkitsarath Rd, ☏ +856 71 254670, info@theapsara.com. A quite wonderful hotel in a restored colonial building overlooking the Khan River. All rooms are decorated with local fabrics and furniture and very much in keeping with the hip and funky image of the hotel. Try to stay in the original building if you can. Superb French/Asian restaurant in the lobby. US$75-120. 
• The Grand (around 4 km from the city. Provides a regular shuttle boat and bus service runs for guests). An atmospheric set of comfortable neo-colonial buildings on the site of Prince Phetsarath's old residence. Many rooms have idyllic views of both the Mekong River and the hotels gardens and ponds. During the winter season, breakfast is served outdoors on a terrace with spectacular views of the Mekong River and the surrounding hills as they emerge from the morning mist. 
• Kiridara. Beautiful hotel on the outskirts of the city, with views overlooking Mt Phou Si and the hills surrounding Luang Prabang. The relatively large rooms offer very comfortable beds. The infinity swimming pool has great views, and sometimes masseuses from the spa will offer complimentary 5-min massages to people lounging by the pool. The spa offers a range of massages and herbal steam baths. Small gym on-site. From US$112. 
• Lotus Villa, ☏ +856 71 255050, reception@lotusvillalaos.com. A 15-room Lao-colonial villa in the quiet area of the UNESCO precinct. The clean rooms, decorated by local artisans, are centred around a lush tropical garden, includes breakfast and Internet/Wi-Fi. US$60-180. 
• Maison Souvannaphoum Hotel. An old palace transformed into a hotel, with the "Angsana Spa" within the hotel. Spacious rooms with great amenities. Each room with a balcony. Small but clean swimming pool, hearty breakfast, all staff know you by name as there are only 24 rooms. Within walking distance to all the attractions. 
• Mekong River View. A beautiful boutique hotel with personal touches, on the tip of the peninsula, at the very end of the old town, in the UNESCO World Heritage Area. The view you have from the rooms and café/restaurant is the meeting of the Mekong River and Nam Khan Rivers. The hotel is quiet and peaceful with the beautiful former royal temple Wat Xienthong as your neighbour. 
• La Residence Phou Vao. This resort sits amid landscaped grounds and gardens, and has picturesque views over Phou Si and the town. The property has a traditional Lao spa and a restaurant, offering both indigenous and French cuisine. Regular shuttles are provided and boat trips arranged. 
• 3 Nagas Hotel. Nice colonial hotel with 7 rooms on one side and 8 on the other. The restaurant is fairly cheap, but the rooms are rather overpriced. There are a few executive suites, the most costly coming with their own set of stairs. But beware: your nights may be troubled as there is a cockerel that sings every morning at the hotel at about 03:00. The attitude of the owner has put off some guests who report this in forums. 
• Villa Maly. Boutique hotel that is a former royal residence. The property is a blend of traditional Laotian architecture with echoes of its French colonial past. Internet and breakfast included. US$190-300. 
• Villa Santi Resort, Sakkarine Rd, ☏ +856 71 252157. Villa-style resort, good restaurant, with a terribly mosquito infested pool. Massage and spa service. 
• Villa Le TamTam. Superior guest house in a quiet street just a minute walk from the city centre. Excellent service and peaceful atmosphere. Full breakfast included. US$55-80. 
• 3 Lao Spirit Resort (you can ride your motorbike to Ban Xieng Lom village or arrange for the staff to pick you up in Luang Prabang), ☏ +856 20 58 553 133, info@lao-spirit.com. Beautiful, peaceful jungle resort 15 km outside of the city. Colonial style bungalows with great views of the Nam Khan and mountains beyond. Good food and many activities offered. In the mornings, you can see elephants bathe in the river. Supports local villages. From US$100, last-minute often cheaper. (updated Jul 2015)
• 4 Parasol Blanc, 11 Phouvao Road (1km from/to the night market and center), ☏ +856 71 252 124, info@parasol-blanc.com. 3.5 stars hotel. 20 classic rooms, 10 superior rooms. While the story of Parasol Blanc started in 1885 and King Sisavang Phoulivong, the hotel is very recent and rooms are super modern. Friendly & multilingual staff (English & French especially). Bicycles lent for free. Rooms with a private balcony overlooking a tropical garden and a lotus pond, protected by the UNESCO Free Zone. Cable TV. Plugs everywhere. Substantial, diverse & delicious breakfast (including baguette, croissants, Nutella, Vegemite, fresh fruits, Lao delicacies) 06:30-22:00. US$96 for a classic room, $116 for a superior. (updated Apr 2018)

Cope

If you buy bottled water, don't throw out the bottle when it is empty. You will find water dispensers in many places, including in your hotel lobby, tour agents' offices, restaurants etc. If you can't find one along the backpackers' area, go to the lobby of the Phra Lang Phra Lao, a separate building besides the National Museum, beyond the huge King Sisavangvong statue, and fill it up. The water dispenser is on the right at the far end. There is also a free toilet.

Go next

• Huay Xai — for those departing by boat to Thailand this is the necessary stopover
• Vang Vieng — the next stop on the backpacker circuit for many younger travellers.
• Phonsavan - starting point for Plain of Jars UNESCO world heritage sites
• For a more serene experience:
  • Nong Khiaw — to the north
  • Muang Ngoi Neua
• Vientiane
• Hanoi
• Nong Khiaw