Hegra (ٱلْحِجْر al-Ḥijr), also Madain Saleh (مدائن صالح) is a large archaeological site in Hejaz, Saudi Arabia.
Understand
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Founded in the 3rd century BC, Hegra was the second capital of the Nabataean Kingdom. A city hewed out of rock in the same style as the first capital, Jordan's far more famous Petra, Hegra has been a 
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008, and would be a top tourist draw in any other country than Saudi Arabia. With the introduction of tourist visas by the Saudi government in 2019, it has now become easier for foreigners to visit, and there is now a concerted government effort in progress to build up tourist infrastructure and awareness of the site.
Get in
[edit]Entry to the actual archeological sites of Hegra is only possible by participating on an official tour organized by the official government tour agency Experience Al Ula. Tickets can either be bought online in advance on their website, or by visiting their official ticket office in the Winter Park Visitor Center, a public park and parking lot about 5 km north of the Old Town of Al Ula. The Winter Park Visitor Center is also the meeting point and departure point of all tours going to all important sightseeing sites, including Hegra.
Visitors are then being put into a tour group and headed by bus to the Madain Saleh Visitor Center, the actual entrance of Hegra, about a 16-km bus ride north of the Winter Park.
The regular guided Day Tour to Hegra (SR 95 per person) usually takes about 3 hours, and includes the most important archeological sites such as Al Diwan, the Tombs of Jabal AlBanat, the al-Khuraymat Tombs and the iconic Tomb of Lihyan, Son of Kuza.
While the quality of the English-speaking guide and their knowledge meets high standards, it's important to note that the regular Hegra Day Tour may appear a bit rushed to visitors. This is specifically relevant to visitors who want to take their time for pictures or to explore the individual tombs. Alternatively there are other tours customized to inidividual visitors such as the Hegra Vintage Land Rover Tour or Hegra Night Tour.
By plane
[edit]The nearest airports are in Al-Ula (50 km) and Medina (300 km, and yes, the city is open to non-Muslims).
By car
[edit]The nearest town of any size is Al-Ula, 22 km away from Hegra. Saptco runs direct buses to Al-Ula from major towns including Jeddah (8 hr) and Riyadh (13½ hr).
Get around
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If you are staying at one of the fancy hotels, you will most likely get arranged a transport to the Winter Park Visitor Center and to all the other relevant locations in the region.
If you are travelling independently, it's highly recommended to get around by rental car. Most of the sites, including the Winter Park Visitor Center, have large parking lots and are designed for individual car drivers in mind as well.
There is also a free golf cart shuttle service operating between the Northern and Southern Parking Lot of the Old Town of Al-Ula. Just hop on one of these golf carts driven by friendly ladies and they will be bring you there within about 3 minutes.
See
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- 1 Madain Saleh / Hegra (see the Get In section). This is the main attraction of the region, and can only be visited as part of a tour.
- 2 Elephant Rock (Jabal AlFil) (about 10 km east of the Winter Park Visitor Center). A very picturesque rock formation and scenic place to take pictures from the surrounding rocks. The actual bottom of Elephant Rock can only be accessed by paying entrance fee of a café that surrounds the whole rock. If you are an independent camper, you can also spend the night about 500 m south of Elephant rock and gaze at the illuminated rock at night.
- 3 Rainbow Arch (by car, it's about a 60-km ride north of the Old Town of Al-Ula; the last 6 km until the rock arch have to be traversed over a unpaved road, but it is doable without 4x4). A bit off the beaten path, but highly recommended. A giant rock arch of about 100 m length, picturesquely located inside a rocky valley. Free admittance.
Do
[edit]- 1 Nabatean Rock Carving Workshop (At the Dadan Visitor Center. Cannot be visited independently though.). It is usually part of the Jabal Ikhmal Day Tour. Visitors can carve their name in ancient Nabatean language onto small rocks, which they can take home as souvenirs afterwards.
Buy
[edit]Eat
[edit]Most of the upper-class hotels in the region have their own exquisite inhouse restaurants. Alternatively you can also look for rather tourist-oriented (and accordingly expensive) restaurants and cafés in the Old Town of Al-Ula.
If you have your own means of transport or if you are staying there in the first place, you could visit the more local and cheaper restaurants in the New Town of Al-Ula (2 km south of the Old Town), where all the regular locals go eat. There is a wide selection of Western-style fast food, Arabian-style rice dishes, Shawarma and Kebab, Yemeni cuisine and other restaurants.
Drink
[edit]- 1 Shalal Cafe (A very picturesque café located within spectacular rock formations and can only be entered through a narrow rock canyon.) (about 28 km north of the Old Town of Al-Ula), ☏ +966 533560914. 07:00-12:00, 15:00-23:00.
Sleep
[edit]Staying overnight at Hegra is not allowed, so most visitors sleep in the vicinity of the Old Town of Al-Ula or in one of the resorts scattered around. Prices for accommodations in this part are being considered very high (also for Saudi Arabian standards), and there is almost no selection of budget hotels.
Budget
[edit]If you plan to sleep in your own car, caravan or camping equipment, the staff at the Winter Park Visitor Center recommends spending the night in front of the iconic Elephant Rock (Jabal AlFil),
- 1 Camping Spot at Elephant Rock (about 500 m south of Elephant Rock, in front of the rocks). Free.
Mid-range
[edit]Splurge
[edit]Stay safe
[edit]Al-Ula/Hegra is as safe as the rest of Saudi Arabia. However, three French nationals were killed in the area in 2007, presumably by terrorists. Since then the region is considered safe though, and annually the inflow of tourists is increasing dramatically.
Contact
[edit]- 1 Experience Al-Ula (Official local government tourist and booking agency), Winter Park Visitor Center (about 5 km north of Al-Ula Old Town), ☏ +966 559799839. 07:00-17:00.
Go next
[edit]- Khaybar — around 217 km south-east of Al-Ula, is a ruined ancient city with a fortress on a hill, overlooking a surreal volcanic terrain. It is being developed as a tourist day tour spot, and cannot be visited independently. There are day tours planned departing from Al-Ula.
- Train Wreck at Hadiyyah Fort / Hejaz Railway — around 170 km south-east of Al-Ula, is an impressive ruined train station with a derailed steam locomotive train from the First World War. It is fenced off tightly and not accessible by foot, most likely being developed as a tourist day tour spot.
- Jubbah — about a 445-km car ride north-east of Al-Ula, is famous for its ancient petroglyphs and rock carvings. It can also be reached as day trip from the more accessible city Hail.
- Medina — about a 330-km car ride south-east of Al-Ula, is commonly referred to as the "cradle of Islamic culture and civilisation". It is Islam's second holiest city. Non-Muslims are allowed to visit the city, with exception of entry to the Great Prophet's Mosque.
- Yanbu — about a 360-km car ride south of Al-Ula, is famous for its Red Sea scuba diving options and petrochemical industry.