The 17th arrondissement of Paris lies (slightly) off the beaten path, directly north of the Arc de Triomphe. If you want to see Paris at some of its finest, wealthiest, and most eclectic, this is the place to go. There are no major sights to see or museums to visit, just amazing Haussmannian architecture, countless restaurants, and that quintessential Parisian atmosphere you always imagined.
But beyond this postcard introduction, the neighborhoods that make up the 17th arrondissement have different characteristics. The southwestern areas, commonly referred to as Wagram-Monceau-Ternes, feel like an extension of the Champs Élysées and 16th arrondissement, with high-end shopping galore and fancy apartments. The central area of Batignolles is quite different, with a grungy bohemian feel, lots of bars and bistros which are popular with bobos (short for bohemian-bourgeois aka "hipsters") from the 17th and elsewhere, and plenty of green spaces. Finally, the Épinettes neighbourhood, at the eastern end, is more "rough around the edges" and has quite a lot in common with the neighbouring 18th arrondissement, but still offers a plethora of ethnic cuisines, cheap stores, and excellent bars.
Although the 17th is not particularly close to any of the Paris airports, it is there where airport buses from Charles de Gaulle Airport (Les Cars Airfrance) and Beauvais-Tille Airport (the official shuttle bus) land, stopping at Porte Maillot (Les Cars also stop at Place de l'Étoile). If you want to start exploring right after getting off your airport shuttle bus, or head to the hotel without having to transfer further, the 17th is where you can start your Paris adventure.
The suburban Transilien train lines J and L cross the district on their way to Gare Saint-Lazare, but only Transilien J stops within the 17th at Pont-Cardinet. If you arrive on Transilien L, you have to go back a short distance from Saint-Lazare to find yourself in the 17th.
RER lines A and C cross in the 17th, but do not share a common station - the Line A runs from west to east along the southern boundary of the district, with a station at Place Charles de Gaulle, while the Line C runs from South to North closer to the western border of the district with stops at Neuilly – Porte Maillot, Pereire – Levallois and Porte de Clichy.
Line 1 has stops at Charles de Gaulle - Étoile and Porte Maillot.
Line 2 has stops at Charles de Gaulle - Étoile, Ternes, Courcelles, Monceau, Villiers, Rome, and Place de Clichy.
Line 3 has stops at Porte de Champerret, Pereire, Wagram, Malesherbes, and Villiers.
Line 6 has a stop at Charles de Gaulle - Étoile.
Line 13 has stops at Porte de Clichy, Brochant, Porte de Saint-Ouen, Guy Môquet, La Fourche, and Place de Clichy.
Line 14 has stops at Pont-Cardinet and Porte de Clichy.
Make sure you admire the many luxurious townhouses along the avenues, and relax in hidden small parks and squares sprinkled throughout the area. Many of Paris's upper class live in this district, and the architecture proudly shows this!
- Marché des Batignolles (rue Lemercier at rue des Moines). Tu-Sa 08:30-13:30, 16ː00-19:30. This covered market is known for its organic produce, and has fish and meat and a supermarket (G20) as well.
Though the diversity of cuisine is definitely a notch below the rest of Paris, the 17th arrondissement represents probably the best opportunity to experience true Parisian and French food. The area does house some of the finest Algerian and World cuisine in Paris. If you want a twist on French wine and food, go try some!
- l'Abadache, 89, rue Lemercier (Métro Brochant), ☏ . A French-English collaboration, the cooking is mostly in the French tradition, but with English cheddar and quite a bit of English inventiveness. Go for the polenta with sun-dried tomatoes. €30.
- Aux Couleurs du Monde, 118, rue Truffaut (Métro Brochant), ☏ . A Lao/Honduran restaurant with superb atmosphere, trendy decor, friendly service, and good food. It's not hard to understand why it's one of the most popular places with Batignolles bobos as well as people from outside of the quarter, at least judging by the number of taxis queued up late in the evening. €25.
- Le Bistral, 80, rue Lemercier, ☏ . Inventive cooking in the Spanish tradition and an intimate atmosphere are what distinguishes this little place from the dozens of bistros in the neighbourhood, but it's probably the genuinely caring, warm, service which will bring you back again and again. €35.
- 1 Bistrot des Dames, 18, rue des Dames (Metro Place de Clichy), ☏ . M-F 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00, Sa, Su 12:30-23:00. The romantic bistro offers simple seasonal plates and has a charming garden in summer time.
- Brasserie Wepler, 14, Place de Clichy (Metro Place de Clichy), ☏ . Excellent service, open late, Seafood specialities. Menu from €27.
- Jaipur, 25, rue des Dames (Métro Place de Clichy), ☏ . noon-14:30; 19:00-midnight. The brothers who operate this Indian/Mexican restaurant are actually from Sri Lanka, but that doesn't seem to impact their ability to deliver on both of their favourite ethnic cuisines. When asked why Mexican, the youngest of the three (and the usual waiter) explained "because we like it". You will too. €20.
- A Joy in Food, 2, rue Truffaut (Métro Place de Clichy), ☏ . Lunchtime only. Vegetarian home cooking which leans heavily into Laurel's Kitchen territory. It's not the Potager du Marais (see Paris/3rd_arrondissement), but it's a close runner-up. €17 three-course lunch.
- Niv's, 8, rue des Batignolles (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☏ . A Franco-Italian bistro with high-end Italian dishes.
- Le Réfuge, 34, rue Lemercier, ☏ . Till 05ː00. The drinks speciality here is an assortment of flavoured vodkas. The food, served in the spacious seating area in back is traditional, including a huge cheese platter.
- Le Bar Belge, 75, av Saint Ouen (Métro Guy Moquet), ☏ . Opened in 1954 as Paris was finally recovering from the occupation, the Bar Belge serves dozens of different Belgian beers, ales, and lambics in a locals-dominated, but very friendly room. They also have Vlaams Frites, the original "french" fries. Free Wi-Fi.
- Les Caves Populaires, 22, rue des Dames. Till 02ː00. A major bobo hangout, this one specialises in wine as opposed to the more beer-oriented Lush.
- James Joyce Pub, 71, boul Gouvion St Cyr (Across from the Palais de Congres), ☏ . Also serves standard Irish pub food. They screen Irish and English football and soccer.
- Le Kloog, 63, rue Guy Môquet (Métro Guy Môquet), ☏ . This cosy and well-designed little space specialises in wholesome organic treats. Vegetarian deli and free Wi-Fi.
- Sans Gêne, 112, rue Legendre, ☏ . The name means "without annoyance", but given the shared toilet space perhaps it should be rethought. Still this second location for the popular Oberkampfian drinking spot has a lot going for it including clean trendy decor and more importantly free Wi-Fi.
- Lush, 16, rue des Dames, ☏ . Grungy atmosphere and a well thought out selection of beers and tunes have made this a popular space with the bobo crowd. There's not much in the way of furniture, so it's standing room only when the place gets hopping. Of course that means you can fit more hipsters per square metre.
Hotels and other accommodation facilities in the 17th are mostly to be found clustered at the extremities of the arrondissement, near the attractions - the Place de l'Étoile the Palais du Congress and Place de Clichy (Montmartre). Those provide reasonable connections to the rest of Paris, especially Place de l'Étoile. While cheaper accommodation can be found deeper into the 17th, do make sure that it has effective transportation connections you will need to visit your points of interest.
- 1 Hotel Eldorado, 18, rue des Dames (Métro Place de Clichy), ☏ . A former maison de rendez-vous, a home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute no star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there's a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre's high prices, but they're within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10ː00) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, especially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk. €23-79.
- 2 [dead link] Hotel Elysées Parc Monceau, 38, rue Cardinet, ☏ . Three star charm in an outstanding residential district, just around the corner from Parc Monceau.
- 3 Hotel Prince Albert Monceau, 9, rue Tarbe. Free Wi-Fi.
- Holiday Inn Paris - Montmartre, 23 Rue Damremont Paris, 75018, ☏ .
- 4 [formerly dead link] Hôtel Acacias Etoile, 11, rue des Acacias (Métro Argentine), ☏ , fax: , ✉ email@example.com. A clean, well run hotel in the side streets near Place Charles de Gaulle. The staff is friendly, the rooms aren't large, but they are immaculate. €129, no breakfast; breakfast is €12 extra.
- 5 Hotel Ampère, 102, av de Villiers, ☏ . One of the most inexpensive luxury 4 star hotels in Paris. A garden in the heart of the elegant 17th arrondissement, not far from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysées.
- 6 Mercure Paris Arc de Triomphe Etoile, 27, avenue des Ternes. Modern rooms featuring frosted glass and stiff curtain dividers between sleeping areas and bathrooms, which may not be to everybody's liking. The most expensive rooms enjoy terraces with views over the 17th all the way to La Défense. €134-.
- 7 Novotel Paris 17 Porte d'Asnières, 34, avenue Porte d'Asnières. A typical Novotel in a faraway corner of the 17th, not really close to anything nor particularly conveniently located.
- 8 Hyatt Regency Paris Étoile (former Concorde Lafayette), 3, place du Général Kœnig, ☏ . The tallest hotel in Paris is the lone skyscraper in the northwest of Paris, adjacent to the Palais du Congres. It enjoys an unobstructed line of sight towards the Eiffel Tower from the rooms facing it and its top-floor bar. After Hyatt took over the property, it is being gradually updated, but still not entirely up to the best Hyatt worldwide standards.
- 9 Le Méridien Etoile, 81, boulevard Gouvion Saint Cyr (metro/RER Porte Maillot), ☏ . The very first Le Meridien in the world, built in 1972 to cater for Air France passengers arriving on the newly-acquired widebody jets. Behind the distinctive 1970s facade are updated rooms and common areas with contemporary design and facilities. The hotel faces the Palais du Congres and caters mostly for business travellers. This is the largest hotel by room count in Paris, with 1,025 rooms of various types. The less expensive Classic and Deluxe rooms have more dated decor, the Urban and Executive rooms have been thoroughly updated to 21st century standards.
- 10 Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe, 39, Avenue de Wagram. The Renaissance is a thoroughly modern property with floor-to-ceiling windows in the posh Avenue Wagram, just a short walk from Place de l'Étoile. The building was designed by the same Christian de Portzamparc who gave the Palais du Congres its current appearance.
- Le Bar Belge (see Drink listing). Free Wi-Fi for customers.
- Le Kloog (see Drink listing). Free Wi-Fi for customers.
|Routes through 17th arrondissement|
|La Défense ← 16th arrondissement ←||W E||→ 8th arrondissement → 1st arrondissement|
|16th arrondissement ←||W E||→ 18th arrondissement → 11th arrondissement|
|Levallois-Perret ←||W E||→ 8th arrondissement → 2nd arrondissement|