Pollença
Pollença is a town in the Serra de Tramuntana region of northeast Mallorca, with a well-preserved old centre. In 2023 the population was 17,300, but this includes Port de Pollenca and the rugged headland of Formentor, separately described.
Understand
[edit]The Roman town of Pollentia was 10 km away on the coast. It was Mallorca's chief port for trade with Rome and the east Mediterranean, while Palma was the port for mainland Spain and North Africa. But when the Roman Empire crumbled it came under repeated seaborne attack, and eventually its people relocated here. The abandoned site was just farmland until 1229 when Alcúdia was established there.
The new Pollença likewise grew from the 13th century, and when it was re-built in the 17th / 18th centuries it retained its medieval grid of narrow alleys beneath tall dwelling blocks. These deterred traffic and industry so the historic centre has been preserved, and modern tourism is based down on the coast at Port de Pollença.
Get in
[edit]
Pollença is 54 km northeast of Palma via Ma-13, a good highway. Near Sa Pobla you branch off onto Ma-2200, while Ma-13 continues to Alcúdia. From the airport take Ma-30 to bypass Palma. Park at the edge of town and don't bring a car into the narrow old streets.
TIB Bus 301 runs from Palma de Mallorca roughly hourly, taking an hour via Inca and Sa Pobla. It continues to Port de Pollença, but you may not ride it just for that section.
Bus 322 runs from Alcúdia beach strip every 25 min via Alcúdia port and town centre.
Bus 334 also runs from Alcúdia every 40-50 min via Port de Pollença, then from town goes out to Formentor beach, cape and lighthouse. October-March it turns back at Formentor beach.
Bus 231 runs from Sóller March-Oct four times a day, taking 90 min via Mirador de ses Barques, Escorca and Lluc, and continues to the port.
1 Pollença 1 & 2 is how the main bus stop is shown on timetables, on C de Cecili Metel by the kiddy playpark. It's just a pair of draughty shelters.
Get around
[edit]- The sights are all within walking distance.
- Bike hire and guided bike tours are offered by n + 1 Bicycles. They're at C dels Àngels 3, open daily 09:00-20:00.
- Taxi firms are Taxi 43 (+34 627 226330) and Pollensa Taxi (+34 669 073808).
See
[edit]- A total solar eclipse on Wednesday 12 Aug 2026, starting at 20:31 and lasting 90 seconds. The chances of a clear sky are 65%, but you need be on the hilltops and coast to the north to get a clear view to the horizon, as the sun will be setting over the sea. 15 minutes later, sunset ends the show.
- 1 Roman Bridge north side of town has two arches over a seasonal stream. It's closed to traffic but the footpath is in good repair.
- 2 Calvary Chapel was built in 1795. It stands on a 123 m hill and is approached by the 365 Calvary Steps, leading up from the main square. There are viewpoints along the steps and 14 Stations of the Cross.
- 3 Plaça Major is the pedestrianised main square, lined with cafes. The Church of Santa Maria is at its west corner.
- Plaça Almoina 100 m north of Plaça Major was originally town centre, with Font del Gall - fountain of the rooster - a watering point for horses.
- Casa Museu Dionís Bennàssar, C de la Roca 14 (50 m west of Son San Jordi Hotel.), ☏ +34 971 530997. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00, Su 10:00-13:00. The painter Dionís Bennàssar Mulet (1904-67) was born and spent much of his life in Pollença. This is his studio. Donation.
- Chapel of Sant Jordi is 16th century. It's just east of Son San Jordi Hotel but only occasionally open for services.
- 4 Pollença Museum, C Pere Josep Cànaves Salas, ☏ +34 971 531166. Tu-Su 11:00-14:00. The 16th century monastery of San Domingo now houses the town art gallery, with mostly modern work. Free.
- Jardins de Joan March are a leafy park north side of the museum. The tower house is all that remains of the mansion of the Marquis Desbrull, and the park was his orchard.
- 5 Santuari de la Mare de Déu del Puig (or Puig de Maria) is a 14th century nunnery, abandoned in 1988. It's closed, so you come up here for the hike (no access for visitor vehicles) and hilltop views.
- Cala Sant Vicenç is a small beach resort 7 km northeast, with a handful of hotels. The beach is rocky but you might visit for hikes on the headlands.
Do
[edit]- Golf: Golf Pollença is 5 km southeast of town. It's nine holes, so twice around is 5216 m, par 70.
- Beaches: the nearest sandy beach is in Port de Pollença. Cala Sant Vicenç to the northeast is rocky.
- Davallament, the descent from the cross, is re-enacted by torchlight late on Good Friday. The effigy of Jesus is taken in silence from the Calvary Oratory down the steps to the main church, by a procession of black-cloaked figures.
- Festival de Pollença is classical music, held throughout August in Sant Domingo monastery.
Buy
[edit]- Eroski, Av Argentina (4 blocks southwest of main square). Daily 08:30-21:30. Chain supermarket with fair selection and prices.
- Pollença market is held in Plaça Major on Sunday 08:00-13:30.
- Lidl supermarket is 2 km west on the road to the port, open M-Sa 09:00-22:00, Su 09:00-15:00.
Eat
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- Ca`n Moixet, Plaça Major 2 (north end of main square), ☏ +34 971 534214. W-M 07:30-01:00. Traditional tapas bar, variable quality.
- Q11 Restaurant is opposite the church north end of the square, open daily 12:00-22:00.
- Club Pollença, Plaça Major 10 (south end of main square), ☏ +34 971 530000. Daily 07:30-00:00. It's a real club but non-members are welcome to dine. Indifferent quality.
- II Giardino, Plaça Major 11 (bottom of main square), ☏ +34 971 534302. M-Sa 12:00-22:30, Su 10:00-22:30. Splendid trad Italian restaurant.
- Bar Nou, C Antoni Maura 13 (block west of main square), ☏ +34 971 530005. W-M 12:30-15:00, 18:30-22:00. Good choice for tapas and other Mallorquin cuisine.
- Romani, Plaça de Ca les Monnares 20, ☏ +34 971 124331. Su M W 10:00-15:30, Th-Sa 10:00-15:00, 20:00-22:00. Simple local food at reasonable prices.
- La Font del Gall, C de Monti-Sion (Plaça Almoina, 100 m north of main square.), ☏ +34 971 530396. Daily 12:00-22:30. Spanish and Mallorcan fine dining.
Drink
[edit]- Town centre bars are Oh Vermut, La Birreria, U Gallet, 9 Sadanar and Cafe 1550.
- Can Vidalet is a vineyard 3 km east of town.
- Mortitx is a vineyard 10 km west along Ma-10 towards Lluc. Their shop here is open M-F 09:00-17:00; their shop in town has closed.
- Bodegas Xaloc, Can Xartell and Binimaimo are vineyards further south along Ma-2200.
Sleep
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- 1 Son Sant Jordi, Sant Jordi 29, ☏ +34 971 530389. Cozy hotel with a pleasant garden and pool. B&B double €180.
- Hotel Juma is on main square at Plaça Major 9.
- Mon Boutique is at C d'Antoni Maura 38 just south of Plaça Major. Small rooms and noise from the plaza.
- Hotel Desbrull is a clean inexpensive place at C Marquès Desbrull 7 a block south of Plaça Major, not to be confused with the pricey Son Brull (below) south of town.
- Calvario Plaza Hotel, Plaça Martorell 7 (foot of Calvario Steps), ☏ +34 630 955910. Charming little hotel with four rooms in town centre. You can also stay on their liveaboard boat. B&B double €350.
- 2 Can Aulí, C Mallorca 40, ☏ +34 871 872500. Lovely small hotel near town centre, adults only. B&B double €380.
- 3 Son Brull Hotel, Hwy Ma-2200 km 50, ☏ +34 971 535353. Luxurious spa hotel 2 km south of town. B&B double €600.
Connect
[edit]As of August 2024 Pollença town, port and approach roads have 4G from Vodafone, and 5G from MasMovil, Movistar and Orange.
Go next
[edit]- Port de Pollença has the best nearby beach, and is the route to Formentor peninsula.
- Alcúdia old town has kept its medieval walls. The ruins of Roman Pollentia lie just outside.
- Palma de Mallorca the capital needs a couple of days to explore.
- Sóller is best known for its antique train and tram, both very touristy.