Safranbolu is in Western Black Sea Region, Turkey, though located 50 km inland on the mountains.
Understand[edit]
One of the pioneers in Turkey to realise that preserving the old town can actually contribute to the community through increased tourism while the traditional buildings, perceived as unpractical leaky shambles, were being abandoned and knocked down elsewhere, Safranbolu's success story later inspired many others in the country to polish up their historic districts lucky enough to have kept a level of authenticity.
Get in[edit]
By road from Ankara is 220 km. Follow E89 north onto E80, turn east then north on D755 via Karabük. Summer weekends you'll be in a stream of city dwellers' vehicles heading the same way.
Buses from Istanbul run hourly and take about 7 hours via Gebze, Adapazarı, Duzce, Bolu, Gerede and Karabük, for a fare in 2024 of 450 TL. Buses from Ankara run every couple of hours and take 2 hours 45 min. The main bus lines are Safran, Metro Turizm and Flixbus (formerly Kamil Koç). Frequent local buses and dolmuşes ply between Karabük and Safranbolu.
1 Safranbolu Otogarı the bus station is on Adnan Menderes Blv one km south of town centre and 2 km from the old quarter. The onward dolmuş ride may be included in your bus ticket, enquire when booking.
The nearest railway station is in Karabük, 10-15 km southwest. For years this was cut off from the national network but in 2024 the line has partly reopened: four regional trains run daily along the northern section between Karabük and Zonguldak on the coast, taking 3 hours. On the southern section from Ankara, Karaelmas Express is a weekly "Tourist Train" which makes a long stop at Karabük for sight-seeing in Safranbolu then continues to Zonguldak, but there's no word on when regular trains might re-start.
Get around[edit]
Dolmuses regularly drive the 2 km between the old town (Çarşı) and the new town center, which is where buses are likely to let you off or pick you up. Once in the old town, everything is reachable by foot. Additionally, some intercity buses might drop you off in the nearby steel down of Karabük. From there you'll have to find a dolmus into Safranbolu.
See[edit]
- Çarşı is the charming old town, full of Ottoman merchants' villas in various stages of restoration.
- 1 Ulu Cami (Great Mosque) was built as a Greek Orthodox church around 1660, and converted to a mosque in 1956.
- 2 Cinci Han was the principal caravanserai, built in 1645. In the 21st century it was converted into a hotel, but this venture has flopped. So you may or may not find it open to look around, for the price of a cup of tea in the courtyard.
- Koprulu Mehmet Paşa Mosque next to Cinci Han was built in 1661 AD.
- Hamamönü Sokak is the scenic street north of Cinci Han, lined with old buildings and named for its historic hamam.
- 3 Eski Çarşı is the atmospheric old bazaar that gives its name to Çarşı district. It's accessible 24 hours.
- İzzet Paşa Mosque west side of Eski Çarşı was built in 1796. It's a smaller replica of Nuruosmaniye Mosque in Istanbul, commissioned by İzzet Mehmet (1743-1812), the local boy who rose to be Grand Vizier 1794-98. Then he was exiled, and his tomb is in Manisa.
- 4 Kaymakamlar Gezi Evi, Hıdırlık Sk 6. Daily 09:00-17:30. Mansion converted into an ethnography museum.
- Hıdırlık Tepesi is a viewpoint on the hill at the top of Hıdırlık Sk. The octagonal tomb is that of district governor Hasan Paşa (d 1845).
- Bağlar (literally "orchards") is the northern extension of Old Town. Sights here are more spread out.
- Mencilis (Bulak) Cave which is 3 km from city center, worth to see since it is the 4th biggest cave in Turkey.
- 5 Sırçalı Kanyonu (15 km northeast, past the village of Düzce). The highlight is the Taş Teras ("stone terrace"), a wide, flat rock protruding from the cliff over the canyon, known as the "Turkish Trolltunga".
- 6 Yörük is a historic village 15 km east off D030, a miniature and much less touristy version of Safranbolu.
Do[edit]
- Turkish baths: Cinci Hamam is 50 m north of Cinci Han and was built at the same time. It's still in use.
- 1 Hike down the canyon. The canyon sports beautiful cliffs. 1 hour. ₺5.
- 2 Incekaya Su Kemeri. An old aqueduct north of Safranbolu past the village of Incekaya. Ask around to get there. There are also some organized tours that go there in the morning.
Buy[edit]
Traditional tablecloths and souvenirs from Arasta Bazaar.
Eat[edit]
- Safrantat. Try their saffron flavoured lokum (Turkish delight) in their main factory in Kıranköy, Safranbolu.
- Adanadan Dürümce, Kaya Erdem Cad. 40 (in the new part of the town—catch a dolmuş up the hill, the restaurant is on your right after you get off at the first stop). An excellent restaurant featuring the cuisine of southern city of Adana and the southeast on the menu. Kebabs, mushroom (mantar), tasty freshly prepared ayran, and menengiç coffee (made of roasted seeds of turpentine tree, Pistachia terebinthus) are the main specialities.
Drink[edit]
Sleep[edit]
- 1 Zalifre Hotel, Araphacı Sk 77, ☏ +90 370 725 4718. Smart downtown hotel. B&B double 2500 TL.
- 2 Saffronia 1900, Kaya Erdem Cd 19, ☏ +90 370 415 1900. Welcoming, clean and comfy. B&B double 2500 TL.
- 3 Havuzlu Asmazlar Konağı, Beybağı Sk 18, ☏ +90 370 712 1444. Charming old mansion, havuzlu means the pool in its centre. B&B double 3000 TL.
- 4 Gulevi Safranbolu, Hükümet Sk 46, ☏ +90 530 243 0045. Delightful place in a knock-through of three 18th century mansions. No air-con, pet-friendly. B&B double 2500 TL.
- 5 Baglar Saray Otel, Sadri Artunç Cd 102, ☏ +90 370 725 5078. Modern hotel done in retro style. B&B double 3000 TL.
- 6 Safir Konak, Sadi Yaver Ataman Meydanı 1, ☏ +90 501 267 2347. Trad konak showing its age. The restaurant often has live music and noisy parties. B&B double 2500 TL.
Connect[edit]
Safranbolu, Karabük and their approach highways have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of Jan 2024, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.
Go next[edit]
- Amasra to the north is another historic town, with the added bonus of nice beaches and plenty of sea views.
- Kastamonu to the east is a riverside city, with an old town much larger and historically important than Safranbolu, though not as well preserved or visited.
Routes through Safranbolu |
Ends at (N / S) ← | W E | → Kastamonu → Amasya |