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Reflections on Tràigh Mhòr

Tiree (Gaelic Tiriodh) is the westernmost island of the Inner Hebrides. It's about 12 miles (19 km) long by 3 miles (5 km) wide. The terrain is mostly flat and sandy, and the climate is mild and sunny, with an Atlantic breeze that discourages the midges.


The island's name means "land of corn" and it's more fertile than other parts of the Hebrides, supplying corn to the monks of Iona. Like other islands it briefly flourished in the 19th century when kelp was valuable, but suffered the usual decline of poverty and forced depopulation. Civil unrest was so bad here in 1886 that the government sent a warship; but the uprising ended peaceably and the Marines showed the islanders how their terrain was ideal for golf.

Tiree has a population of about 700 spread over 30 sq mi (78 km2), most of which is flat fertile land.

Visitor information[edit]

Get in[edit]

By plane[edit]

  • 1 Tiree airfield (TRE IATA), Crossapol (2 miles west of Scarinish). The main link is by Loganair, who fly to Tiree from Glasgow (GLA IATA), which has good domestic and international connections. They fly twice a day year round (so a day trip is feasible) except in winter on Sa & Su, when there's only a single flight. Hebridean Airways fly from Oban via Coll to Tiree two days a week, year round. This is basically an airborne school bus, using BNF Islanders with very limited luggage capacity. There's a cafe and toilets, and small local history exhibition. Tiree Airport (Q1945992) on Wikidata Tiree Airport on Wikipedia

Loganair are no longer part of Flybe and are not directly affected by their collapse, the problem is with connecting flights to English regional airports.

By boat[edit]

Calmac ferries sail to Tiree from Oban, taking four hours. April-Oct they sail daily, Nov-March daily except Wednesday & Friday. They usually call at Coll on the way, so these two islands are easily combined on a trip. On Wednesdays Apr-Oct the ferry continues to Barra.

A return fare is £121 for a car plus £22 per person including the driver. A “Hopscotch” ticket, visiting Tiree plus Coll, is £126 per car plus £24 per person (in summer 2020). Pedal bikes go free. The ferry jetty is at 2 Scarinish.

Get around[edit]

The island is big enough to make it worth bringing a car. It's fairly flat with quiet roads which make it good for exploring by bicycle. Attractions around Scarinish are easily reached on foot.

A ring-n-ride minibus runs M-Sa 07:00-18:00, with late services on Tuesday. Phone +44 1879 220419 to book a journey between 1 hour and 1 week in advance. Priority is given to ferry connections.


Traigh Bail
  • 1 An Iodhlann (Tiree Historical Centre), An Iodhlann, Scarinish PA77 6UH, +44 1879 220793. Jul Aug: M-F 11:00-17:00, Sep-Jun: M W Th 09:00-15:00. Small but fascinating museum, with archives for family research. Free.
  • 2 Skerryvore Lighthouse Museum, Upper Square, Hynish PA77 6UQ, +44 1865 311468. Shore station for a lighthouse built between 1838 and 1844. The lighthouse is on wave-lashed Skerryvore 12 miles out to sea, and was designed by Alan Stevenson, uncle of Robert Louis. There is an exhibition on the difficult building of the lighthouse, and another on the Treshnish Isles. The signal tower is sometimes also open. The light was automated in 1994. Free, but donation appreciated. Skerryvore Lighthouse (Q2292002) on Wikidata Skerryvore Lighthouse on Wikipedia
  • 3 The Ringing Stone. Always open. About 2 miles walk on a roughly marked path from Balephetrish. Start along the shore track past the wind turbines, then follow arrows through 3 gates, then continue for 350 m after the last gate, past Loch na Gille, and the Stone can be seen next the beach just after passing a small loch (Loch Dubh a Gharraidh Fail). A sign near the Stone tells of use in 2500 BC. Throw a fist-sized rock at the stone to hear it ring: this is thought to occur because the crystalline interior of the stone is under tension, and resonates when struck. Hacking bits off (please don't) releases the tension so the fragment goes "dead". Free.
  • An Turas (The Journey) (next to the ferry terminal). Always open. Modern art installation, a long open corridor, with a view over Gott Bay. Shortlisted for the Stirling (architecture) Prize. Free.
  • 4 Dun Mor Vaul (walk about 1 km from Vaul; you could also walk from the Ringing Stone, although there is no clear path, the terrain is reasonable). always open. Ruins of a broch (circular castle tower) built in about the first century AD. The ruins are about 2 m high, and you can walk into the centre and get a good feeling of what the broch would have been like. free. Dun Mor Vaul (Q1271556) on Wikidata Dun Mor Vaul on Wikipedia


  • Wild Diamond offer water sports: surfing, windsurfing, kiting, kayaking and sand yachting. Their shop is at Cornaig, by Loch Bhasapol at the northwest corner of the island.
  • 1 Tiree Music Festival (An Talla beach, Crossapol, 2 miles west of Scaranish.). weekend in mid-July The next is F 8 - Su 10 July 2022.. Tiree Music Festival (Q18624765) on Wikidata Tiree Music Festival on Wikipedia
  • Running: marathon, half-marathon, and 10-km race each May (next on Sat 1 May 2021); ultramarathon in September (next on Sun 6 Sept 2020).
  • Basking sharks congregate in early summer in the Sound of Gunna, the narrow straits separating Tiree from Coll. Shark-watching trips run from Oban and Coll; none go regularly from Tiree but you might be able to negotiate this locally.
  • Tiree Wave Classic. 6 days in October. windsurfing competition. Tiree Wave Classic (Q7809193) on Wikidata Tiree Wave Classic on Wikipedia
  • 2 Vaul Golf Club. 9 hole flattish course with no obstacles. Day ticket £20.


  • 1 Co-op Food, Scarinish PA77 6UH. Daily 07:00-22:00. With bakery & Paypoint.
  • Royal Bank of Scotland (next the Co-op). Tu - Th 10:00 -16:00. Bank without a "hole in the wall" (ATM).
  • 2 Bùth a' Bhaile, Crossapol. Shop with a small selection of "everything" - souvenirs, groceries, plumbing fittings, books.
  • 3 Blue Beyond Gallery, Sunbeam Cottage, Balemartine PA77 6UA. W-F 13:00-17:00. Small gallery selling textile pictures, raku pottery and cards produced onsite by the owners. The original Blue Beyond gallery has been converted to a self-catering cottage.
  • 4 Tiree Glass, Ceosabh, Balinoe PA77 6TZ (near Balinhoe campsite). Apr-Oct: Tu-F 10:30-17:00, Sa 12:00-17:00. Glass-making studio and gallery


See the sleep section for hotels.

  • 1 Ceabhar Restaurant, Sandaig PA77 6XQ, +44 1879 220684. W-Sa 19:00-22:00. Booking essential.
  • Cobbled Cow, Crossapol PA77 6UP (At entrance to airfield). Tu W 10:00-16:00, Th-Sa 10:30-19:30, Su 14:00-18:30. Booking advised for evenings.
  • Cobbled Calf (near the Co-op). lunchtimes + F, Sa evenings. Takeaway van offering fried food and coffee.
  • 2 Yellow Hare. Su-F 10:00 - 14:00, Sa 9:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 19:00, usually open around ferry times, closed in January. Coffee and cakes, gift shop.


  • Bun Dubh brewery, in Sandaig next to Ceabhar Restaurant, produces various cask ales.
  • Tiree tea is a premium range of tea bags developed on the island.


Typical Architecture on Tiree
  • 1 Balinoe Campsite, +44 1879 220399. Open Apr-Oct with pods and a wooden bothy. Tents, caravans and camper-vans welcome. Facilities include toilets, showers, indoor kitchen and dining area, and wifi. They also run Skerry View self-catering cottage, sleeps 8, let Sunday-to-Sunday year round.
  • Wild camping is allowed free throughout the island, so long as you follow the Outdoor Access Code. Much of the island is farmland, so watch out for grazing livestock.
  • 2 Millhouse Hostel, Cornaigmore PA77 6XA (by Loch Bhasapol, 8 km from pier), +44 1879 220435. Two dorms each with six single beds, plus two rooms with double bed plus single bunk. No dogs. Dorm £24 ppn.
  • 3 Rockvale Guest House, 35 Balephetrish PA77 6UY (2 miles from ferry pier), +44 1879 220675. Friendly 3-star B&B on north coast of island. B&B double from £90.
  • 4 Scarinish Hotel, Scarinish PA77 6UH, +44 1879 220308. Cosy small hotel near ferry pier, with restaurant. B&B double from £90.
  • 5 Tiree Lodge Hotel, Gott Bay, Isle of Tiree PA77 6TW, +44 1879 220329. Small 2-star. B&B double from £100.
  • Several self-catering cottages dotted about.


You should always get enough signal for a phone call, but 4G coverage is weak.

Stay safe[edit]


  • Pier Laundry (behind Yellow Hare cafe, near ferry pier). Laundrette and public coin operated showers.

Go next[edit]

  • Coll is where the ferry calls on the way from Oban most days of the week, sailing time one hour, and indeed it's usually visited in combination with Tiree.
  • Oban is the mainland port, with access to the rest of Scotland, though by public transport you'll have to go via Glasgow.

This rural area travel guide to Tiree is a usable article. It has information on how to get there and on restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.