Tonya is a town of about 15,000 in Eastern Karadeniz about 20 km inland and 750 m up from the Black Sea.
The road from Vakfıkebir on the Black Sea coast is good, albeit somewhat wiggly, but if approaching from anywhere else take local advice as other roads in may be damaged by flooding or difficult to follow at night or in fog.
The town itself is small enough to walk around. There are minibuses to some surrounding villages and "yayla" (high pastures), although in winter roads may be blocked by thick snow.
The town can be used as a base for exploring the surrounding low (under 2,000 m) mountains.
Because of the green high pastures and cows Tonya is known for its dairy products, and you may notice the giant model of a spoon of butter on the left as you enter the town.
Haşlama (pronounced "hashlama" meaning "boiled") is a soup containing a large chunk of meat and a few potatoes and other vegetables, which is available at at least one local cafe. At breakfast time the meat will still be rather tough as it will not have been cooked for long, so it is best ordered in the afternoon as it may have run out by the evening. Of course you will also be given plenty of bread.
The water is very good so you can safely drink tap water and refill your bottles at village çeşme (traditional roadside public drinking water pipes or taps). In cafes you can ask for "ev yapilma" (homemade) "ayran" (yoghurt drink).
Except possibly in winter accommodation should be arrange in advance as the local Öğretmenevi and the Canada Otel may well be full.
Although there is a good phone signal in town there is no signal in some of the surrounding villages, so if you are going out of town do not rely on your mobile phone for emergencies.
The town (and surrounding district of the same name) had a "wild west" reputation in the past but, although there are still plenty of cowgirls and a few cowboys, nowadays gunfighting is almost unknown. When travelling outside the town be prepared for sudden thick fog.
Gümüşhane (but take local advice about current road conditions before departing)