Tsavo West National Park

Tsavo West National Park is in the Southern Rift Valley of Kenya. Tsavo West hosts fewer visitors than its slightly larger brother, Tsavo East National Park, because its hilly landscape and thicker vegetation makes animals harder to see. Don't count Tsavo West out, however – it is considered the better looking of the two.

Understand

The best time to see wildlife in Tsavo East is from August through September, when the vegetation is thinner and the viewing distances longer.

History

Tsavo was the hunting ground of the infamous Tsavo Man-Eaters, two lions that were responsible for the deaths of many construction workers on the Kenya-Uganda Railway during 1898. (This saga was dramatised in the 1997 Hollywood film The Ghost and the Darkness.)

The national park was established on 1 April 1948 with an area of 21,812 km2 (8,422 sq mi). It was the largest park in Kenya for just a month, as the park was then divided in two in order to ease its administration. The dividing line for the parks is today's Nairobi–Mombassa railroad.

Landscape

Tsavo West has an arid, hilly landscape, dotted with volcanic cones, dark lava flows and a number of rocky outcrops. It is bisected by the park's namesake, the Tsavo River.

Flora and fauna

The park host leopards, cheetahs, wild dogs, buffaloes, rhinos, elephants, giraffes, zebras, lions, crocodiles, mongooses, hyraxes, dik-diks, lesser kudus and nocturnal porcupines, among others. Over 600 different bird species have been spotted in the park.

Climate

Generally the temperature ranges from 27–31 °C (81–88 °F) during the day and 22–24 °C (72–75 °F) during the night, year round. Humidity is high from December to April. There are two rainy seasons at Tsavo West: a long one from March to May, and a short one from October to December. You probably want to skip the long rainy season, while the short rainy season is quite tolerable with just afternoon showers.

Get in

Most visitors enter Tsavo West by private vehicle, rental vehicle with driver or an organized safari from Nairobi, Mombasa, Amboseli or the Kenyan coast. Public transport can take travellers to nearby towns, but it does not provide a practical means of entering and touring the park.

The principal northern entrance is Mtito Andei Gate, beside the Nairobi–Mombasa highway. Kenya Wildlife Service places it approximately 240 km from Nairobi and 250 km from Mombasa. Other entrances include Tsavo River, Chyulu, Lake Jipe, Maktau and Ziwani gates. Chyulu Gate provides the usual connection with Amboseli National Park. Confirm the most appropriate gate with the accommodation or safari operator, as choosing the wrong entrance can add several hours of driving.

The Nairobi–Mombasa Standard Gauge Railway stops at Mtito Andei. A lodge, safari operator or private driver should be booked to meet the train, since the station is outside the wildlife-viewing network and there is no regular public transport around the park.

Light aircraft can land at the Kilaguni and Finch Hattons airstrips. Other airstrips include Kamboyo, Ziwani, Tsavo River, Lake Jipe, Maktau and Kasigau, although flights and ground transfers must be arranged in advance through a lodge or charter operator.

Visitors arriving by road should travel during daylight. The Nairobi–Mombasa highway carries heavy truck traffic, and official travel advice identifies road accidents, dangerous overtaking and poorly maintained vehicles as major risks in Kenya.

Fees and permits

For non-residents, the entrance fee is US$80.

Get around

Tsavo West is explored by safari vehicle, either independently or with a driver-guide. There is no public transportation between its gates, lodges and attractions. The park’s hilly terrain, lava fields and dense vegetation make travel slower than distances on a map may suggest.

A high-clearance vehicle is advisable, and a 4×4 is strongly recommended during the rainy seasons or when using remote tracks. Heavy rain can make unpaved roads difficult or impassable, even for four-wheel-drive vehicles. Ask park staff or the accommodation about current road and river-crossing conditions before setting out.

KWS requires drivers to remain on established roads, prohibits off-road driving and sets a maximum park speed of 40 km/h. Visitors must remain inside their vehicle except at lodges, campsites, viewpoints, picnic areas and other designated places. Ordinary gate hours are 6AM–6PM, unless the visitor is staying overnight within the park.

Allow ample time when travelling between attractions such as Mzima Springs, Ngulia, Shetani Lava Flow, Roaring Rocks, Poacher’s Lookout and Lake Jipe. Avoid attempting to cover every part of the park in a single day.

Fill the fuel tank before entering and carry drinking water, food, a first-aid kit, sun protection, insect repellent and basic vehicle equipment. Mobile reception may be intermittent, so download maps in advance and inform the lodge or camp of any long self-drive route. KWS specifically recommends bringing water, food, sunscreen, insect repellent and first-aid supplies.

See

Mzima Springs – A series of four natural springs

Do

Rock climbing – The most impressive site is the Kitchwa Tembo cliffs

Buy

KWS operates the Man Eaters Gift Shop at Mtito Andei Gate and another gift shop at Tsavo River Gate. They sell KWS-branded merchandise, souvenirs, curios, park maps and guidebooks.

General shopping inside the park is very limited. Buy food, bottled water, medicines, toiletries, batteries and other essentials before entering. Mtito Andei is the most convenient supply point for the northern entrance, while Taveta and towns along the Nairobi–Mombasa highway serve other approaches. Do not rely on lodge shops for specialist items.

Single-use plastic is prohibited in Kenyan national parks, so use refillable water containers and reusable bags where possible. Carry all rubbish out or place it in designated bins.

Do not purchase ivory, horns, skins, feathers, shells or other wildlife products. Kenya imposes severe penalties for possessing prohibited wildlife items, even when an object is sold as an antique or souvenir.

Eat

Your safari operator should, in most cases, provide catered food. Otherwise there is food at the lodges.

Drink

In the lodges the prices for soft drinks are about Ksh 150ksh, while beer is roughly Ksh 350 and wine Ksh 400. Water is free in most camps. Prices for drinks in the safari vehicles should be about the same.

Sleep

Lodging

Most accommodations are set near watering holes where game can be sighted.

Severin Safari Camp
Kilaguni Serena Lodge
Rhino Valley Lodge
Lions Bluff Lodge – Located in Taita Hills, outside the park, although has a 360-degree view over the park

Camping

Backcountry

Stay safe

Tsavo West contains elephants, buffaloes, lions, leopards, rhinoceroses and other dangerous wildlife. Remain inside the vehicle except in designated areas, keep doors closed and allow animals the right of way. KWS requires visitors to keep at least 20 m from wildlife and prohibits feeding animals.

Give elephants plenty of room, particularly mothers with calves and lone bulls. Never drive between herd members, block an animal’s route or approach an elephant that is displaying agitation. Buffaloes and rhinoceroses can also charge when surprised or cornered.

Move slowly and quietly around wildlife. Do not hoot, rev the engine or play loud music, and never drive under the influence of alcohol. Off-road driving can damage fragile vegetation and may leave a vehicle stranded beyond the reach of normal patrol routes.

Wear a seat belt whenever the vehicle is moving. Safari vehicles can overturn on rough roads, and visitors have been seriously injured when not wearing restraints. Avoid driving on the highways outside the park after dark because of unlit vehicles, pedestrians, animals, dangerous overtaking and the risk of crime.

Carry more drinking water than expected, particularly during the hotter months. Use sunscreen, a hat and light covering clothing, and avoid prolonged exposure around midday. Do not drink untreated water from springs, rivers or lakes.

Malaria occurs in parts of Kenya. Use insect repellent, wear long sleeves and trousers after sunset, sleep beneath a mosquito net where rooms are not screened, and consult a medical professional about preventive medication before travelling.

Medical facilities within and near the park are limited, and serious injuries may require evacuation to Nairobi or Mombasa. Carry essential medication and obtain travel insurance covering emergency evacuation. Kenya’s national emergency numbers are 999 and 112. KWS lists 0800 597 000 as its toll-free hotline and +254 726 610509 for WhatsApp assistance.

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