User:(WV-en) Gorilla Jones/Sanin

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Heading west from Tottori on the JR San'in Main Line, you'll notice a distinct thinning of the tourist herd. The San'in Main Line begins in Kyoto and hugs the coast all the way to Shimonoseki; quite a lot of that distance is through Shimane, the second least populous prefecture in Japan. If you're not in a hurry, this is a great trip to spread out over a few days, hopping on and off the train.

Kurayoshi

Kurayoshi (倉吉市) is west of Tottori. It shares some of the charm of Kurashiki, as many of the old kura (storehouses) and Meiji era houses have been restored and filled with small shops. There are also many narrow canals winding through the town, making for a pleasant walk.

Buses from the station run to popular tourist sites like the Pear Museum and the Shirakabe Warehouse District. Bike rentals and tourist information are available just west of the bus platforms.

• <see name="Tottori Nijisseiki Pear Museum" alt="" address="198-4 Dakyoji-cho" directions="Bus to Kurayoshi Park Square" phone="+81 0858-23-1174" url="http://1174.sanin.jp" hours="8:30AM-5:30PM" price="¥300 adults, ¥150 children" lat="" long=""> The Pear Museum celebrates the prefecture's signature product, the 20th Century Pear. As the country's only museum dedicated to pears, this is the only chance you will have to fully explore the history and mysteries of Japanese pear production. There's a tasting area, a dessert parlor, and more.</see>

• <see name="Shirakabe Warehouse District" alt="" address="" directions="Bus to Shirakabe-dozogun" phone="+81 0858-22-1200" url="" hours="" price="" lat="" long=""> The warehouses that line this street comprise some of the oldest buildings in the area, dating back to the Edo and early Meiji periods. Shops specializing in sake, oil, rice, and soy sauce once formed a prosperous shopping district, and the old storehouses with white plaster walls, black wall panels, and red tiled roofs lend an air of old Japan. Many of these buildings have since been remodeled to offer regional crafts and souvenirs. Specialty coffees and local favorites (like soy sauce ice cream) are served.</see>

• <do name="Akagawara Crafts District" alt="" address="Shinmachi 1-chome" directions="" phone="+81 0858-23-6666" url="http://akagawara.net/" hours="9AM-5PM" price="" lat="" long=""> In the Shirakabe area, these craft shops offer visitors the chance to create traditional Japanese crafts. Classes include Hakota doll painting, postcard-making, kite-making, and ceramics. Participants must reserve a spot in advance.</do>

• <do name="Utsubuki Park" alt="" address="Nakano-cho" directions="Bus to Utsubuki Koen Iriguchi" phone="+81 0858-22-1200" url="" hours="" price="" lat="" long=""> Every April, Utsubuki Park is filled with people admiring its 4,000 cherry blossom trees and 40,000 azaleas.</do>

Yasugi

Yasugi (安来) is east of Izumo and Matsue on the San'in Main Line. Formerly a center of steel production, it's now best known for the comedic yasugibushi dance.

• <see name="Adachi Museum of Art" alt="" address="320 Furukawa-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0854-28-7111" url="http://www.adachi-museum.or.jp/e/" hours="9AM-5PM, to 5:30PM Apr-Sept" price="¥2200, recorded English tours ¥300" lat="" long="" email="" fax=""> Although it is an art museum, Adachi is most famous for its gorgeous 43,000 square meter garden, frequently rated among Japan's best. However, visitors can only view it through windows inside the museum. The museum itself has a collection of 130 works by Yokoyama Taikan, one of Japan's foremost visual artists, and many other modern Japanese artists. The Ceramic Art Hall showcases work by some of Japan's greatest potters, including Kawai Kanjiro (a native of Yasugi) and Kitaoji Rosanjin.</see>

• <see name="Wako Museum" alt="" address="1058 Yasugi-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0854-23-2500" email="" fax="" url="http://www.city.yasugi.shimane.jp/p/global/english/1/3/" hours="Th-Tu 10AM-5PM" price="¥300"> This museum describes the tatara method of steel-making that was employed here — many fine samurai swords, for example, were made of steel from Yasugi — along with much else about the steel industry in Japan, with cool tech both high (robots) and low (swords) on display. It's next to the Port of Yasugi.</see>

• <do name="Yasugibushi Theater" alt="" address="534 Furukawa-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0854-28-9500" email="" fax="" url="http://www.city.yasugi.shimane.jp/p/global/english/1/01/" hours="9AM-5PM" price="Performances ¥600, play ¥1200"> Yasugibushi is one of the most popular folk songs and dances in Japan, featuring the humorous loach-scooping dance dojousukui. (The loach is a kind of fish.) The theater offers four performances daily and a play on the history of the form. You can also try some loach dishes at the theater’s restaurant.</do>

• <drink name="Cafe Rosso" alt="カフェロッソ" address="" directions="" phone="+81 0854-22-1177" email="" fax="" url="http://www.caferosso.net" hours="W-M 10AM-6PM" price=""> One of the most famous cafes in Japan. The owner, Hiroyuki Kadowaki, won the Japan barista championship and placed 2nd in the 2005 World Barista Competition in Seattle. It's on Route 9 near the border with Yonago.</drink>

Matsue

Matsue (松江) [1] is the capital of Shimane. It's on the San'in Main Line east of Izumo. There are also direct buses from Izumo Airport (30 minutes).

In town, the Matsue Walker Bus is handy — it runs in a loop around all of the major attractions, every half hour. An unlimited pass costs ¥300. Matsue also shares some stations of the Ichibata Electric Railway with Izumo.

See

• <see name="Matsue Castle" alt="松江城" address="1-5 Tonomachi" directions="" phone="+81 0852-21-4030" url="" hours="8:30AM-5PM, to 5:30 PM Oct-March)" price="¥550, foreign visitors half price with passport" lat="" long=""> Dating back to 1611, the castle keep is one of only twelve original castles left in Japan. Inside, you'll find an impressive array of original artifacts from the Matsudaira clan including original armor, swords, and helmets. The top of the castle offers a great view of the city and Lake Shinji.</see>

• Weather permitting, there are boat rides in the moat around Mastue Castle and neighboring canals. You can ride all day getting on and off at the castle, the microbrewery Ji Beer Kan, and Karakoro Square, making this a relaxing way to get around town. The boats feature a traditional charcoal heated low table (kotatsu) during colder weather and your boatman may regale you with a song about Matsue.

• <see name="Lafcadio Hearn Residence" alt="小泉八雲旧居" address="315 Kitahori-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0852-23-0714" url="" hours="9AM-4:30PM" price="¥350" lat="" long=""> The famous Irish writer only spent 15 months here, but during that time he married a Japanese woman, became a naturalized Japanese citizen, adopted the name Koizumi Yakumo, and started his career writing about Japan. A memorial museum dedicated to Hearn is next door (322 Okudani-cho).</see>

• <see name="Vogel Park" alt="松江貓頭鷹花園" address="52 Ogaki-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0852-88-9800" url="http://www.vogel.jp/English/index2.html" hours="" price="¥1500; 30% discount for foreign visitors" lat="" long=""> As one of the largest greenhouses in the entire world, Vogel Park has an impressive variety of flowers and greenery. It also has an aviary housing many different species of birds.</see>

• <see name="Kamosu Taisha" alt="神魂神社" address="563 Oba-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0852-21-6379" url="" hours="" price="Free" lat="" long=""> Built in 1583, Kamosu Taisha is the oldest shrine built in the taisha-zukuri architectural style. The creator gods Izanami and Izanagi are enshrined together inside. It has been designated a national treasure.</see>

• <see name="Yuushien" alt="由志園" address="1260-2 Yatsuka-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0852-76-2255" url="http://www.yuushien.com" hours="8:30AM-5:30 PM" price="¥600" lat="" long=""> This garden has flowers in bloom during every season thanks to its "House of Peony", which produces numerous large blossoms year round.</see>

• <see name="Buke Yashiki" alt="武家屋敷" address="305 Kitatono-machi" directions="" phone="+81 0852-22-2243" url="" hours="8:30AM-6:30PM April-Sept, to 5PM Oct-March" price="¥300" lat="" long=""> Once owned by a samurai, Buke Yashiki still houses many of his weapons and other artifacts.</see>

• <see name="Matsue English Garden" alt="松江イングリッシュガーデン" address="369 Nishi-Hamadasa-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0852-36-3030" url="http://www.matsue-englishgarden.jp" hours="9AM-5:30PM, to 5PM Oct, to 4:30PM Nov-March" price="Free" lat="" long=""> This should provide some welcome relief from all those Japanese gardens, as it's an authentic English garden. There's an Ichibata Railway station right outside (named after the garden).</see>

• <see name="Geshhoji" alt="月照寺" address="179 Nakahara-cho" directions="" phone="" url="" hours="8:30AM-5:30PM" price="¥400" lat="" long=""> While the actual temple was destroyed during the Meiji Period by the government, the temple grounds contain the graves of the Matsudaira clan, including the first daimyo, who was also the grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu. </see>

Eat

• <eat name="Daikichi" alt="" address="491-1 Asahi-machi" directions="" phone="+81 0852-31-8308" email="" fax="" url="" hours="5PM-1AM" price=""> A reasonably priced yakitori place with English menus. The chicken hips are great. It's near the train station.</eat>

• <eat name="Yakumo-an" alt="" address="308 Kitabori-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0852-22-2400" email="" fax="" url="" hours="9:30AM-4PM" price=""> A great lunch spot next to the Buke Yashiki samurai house, known for their soba and udon noodles.</eat>

Sleep

• <sleep name="Matsue City Hotel" alt="松江シティーホテル" address="31 Suetsuguhon-machi" directions="" phone="+81 0852-25-4100" email="" fax="" url="http://www2.crosstalk.or.jp/sobido/dalian/ctyhote.html" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥3800 single"> A quirky business hotel. Although fine for a solo traveler, avoid double occupancy as the rooms are small even by business hotel standards and the so-called doubles only have one single bed. The hotel is easy to find, with a large clock tower on top; in fact, the owners have sprinkled their collection of antique clocks and other furniture throughout the hotel. Take the bus from JR Matsue Station to Ohashi Kitazume (about 6 minutes, last departure 9PM).</sleep>

• <sleep name="Terazuya Ryokan" alt="" address="60-3 Tenjin-machi" directions="" phone="+81 0852-25-4100" email="" fax="" url="http://www.mable.ne.jp/~terazuya/english" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥4000 single, or ¥7000 with two meals"> Nothing fancy, just a pleasant family run ryokan with shared bathrooms and Internet access. The hosts will pick you up at the train station. There's a nice shrine across the street.</sleep>

• <sleep name="Toyoko Inn" alt="" address="498-10 Asahi-machi" directions="" phone="+81 0852-60-1045" url="http://www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00098/" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥5040 single" lat="" long=""> Conveniently located near JR Matsue Station. (From the north exit of the station, cross the street on the left side and walk for about 2 minutes.) All rooms have a TV, and the beds are quite comfortable. Internet access is available in the lobby, and coin laundry is available as well.</sleep>

• <sleep name="Tokyu Inn" alt="" address="590 Asahi-machi" directions="" phone="+81 0852-27-0109" url="http://www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/en/TI/TI_MATUE/" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥8200 single" lat="" long=""> Of course they're in Matsue! They're everywhere. This one is also a couple minutes walk from JR Matsue Station.</sleep>

Izumo

Izumo soba

Izumo (出雲) is west of Matsue on the San'in Main Line. It's served hourly by the Yakumo (やくも) limited express train from Okayama. From Hiroshima, the bus is the best option. Ichibata Bus and Chugoku JR Bus operate eight round-trips per day from Hiroshima Station and the Hiroshima Bus Center (3 1/2 hours, ¥4000 one way, ¥7200 round trip).

Izumo Airport (出雲空港 IZO) fields flights to major Japanese cities.

In town, the Ichibata Electric Railway (一畑電車株式会社) [2] includes a stop at Izumo Taisha-mae Station, near Izumo Taisha, and out to Matsue Shinji-ko Onsen Station. Ichibata trains can be boarded next to JR Izumo Station.

• <see name="Izumo Taisha" alt="出雲大社" address="195 Kizuki-higashi" directions="" phone="+81 0853-53-3100" email="" fax="" url="http://www.izumooyashiro.or.jp" hours="" price="Free"> Although the date of its construction is unknown, Izumo Taisha is regarded as one of the oldest shrines in Japan — and certainly one of the grandest. Although the current shrine is quite large at about 25 meters tall, records suggest that it is only half the size it was 800 years ago. In the Kojiki, the shrine is said to have been built for Ōkuninushi (god of marriage), who then became the shrine's patron deity. Naturally, then, this is a popular shrine for couples to pray for happy marriages. Every year in November, Shinto gods are said to gather inside the shrine for one week. Note that if you wish to pray at Izumo Taisha, it is customary to clap four times instead of the typical two claps, because you are praying for yourself, as well as your partner (or future partner). Watch many people attempting to toss small change into the large rice-straw rope of one of the shrines outside the main shrine. If you are able to get ¥45 stuck in or on the rope, you'll have good luck.</see>

• <see name="Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo" alt="" address="99-4 Kitsuki-Higashi" directions="" phone="+81 0853-53-8600" url="http://www.izm.ed.jp/english" hours="9AM-6PM March-Oct, to 5PM Nov-Feb. Closed the third Tuesday of each month" price="¥600 adults, ¥400 yen university students, ¥200 children" lat="" long="" email="" fax=""> This elegantly designed complex is near the shrine. Exhibitions feature speculative designs of the original Izumo Taisha, displays on the history and development of nearby Iwami Ginzan, and a dramatic collection of ceremonial bronze bells and swords.</see>

• Izumo soba (出雲そば) is the region's most famous food, but the beef (Shimane wagyu) is good as well.

Oda

Oda (大田市) is a fantastic old silver mining town. At their peak, Oda's mines accounted for about a third of the world's silver production. It's accessible via JR Odashi Station along the San-in Main Line, with Izumo the closest major city. Buses run the main street to the mines; it's about a 2km walk uphill.

Iwami Ginzan (石見銀山) [3] was one of the world's largest silver mines during the 16th and 17th centuries. It was officially registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007.

• <see name="Ryugenji Mabu Mine Shaft" alt="龍源寺間步" address="Omori-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0854-89-0347" email="" fax="" url="" hours="9AM-5PM, to 4PM winter" price="¥400"> The only mine shaft that visitors can tour on their own without a tour, although guides are available. This covers only a fraction of the tunnels that were dug around here, but a walk through the shaft is impressive nonetheless.</see>

• <see name="Okubo Mabu Mine Shaft" alt="大久保間步" address="Omori-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0854-84-0750" url="" hours="Tours begin at 9:30AM, 10:30AM, 12:15PM, and 1:15PM, lasting 2 1/2 hours. No tours F-Su from March-Nov" price="¥3800" lat="" long=""> The largest and most impressive mine shaft in Iwami Ginzan, only recently opened to the public for guided tours. Reservations are not necessary but are recommended, as a limited number are offered per week. Meet at the Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Center, where a bus will take you to the mines. Despite the time and money required, it's well worth the effort to gain a deeper appreciation of Iwami Ginzan.</see>

• <see name="Iwami Ginzan World Heritage Center" alt="石見銀山世界遺產中心" address="1597-3 Omori-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0854-89-0183" email="" fax="" url="" hours="9AM-5PM" price="¥500"> Typically the first stop visitors make when visiting the mines. This museum displays the history of the mines through artifacts, recreated scenes, and interactive computers. It's a nice place to prepare for everything you are about to see.</see>

• <see name="Gohyaku-Rakan" alt="五百羅漢" address="804 Omori-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0854-89-0005" email="" fax="" url="" hours="9AM-5PM" price="¥500"> An interesting temple cut into the side of the hill, housing 500 carved Boddhisatva statues. It's located alongside the road leading to the World Heritage Center.</see>

Yunotsu

Yunotsu (温泉津) is a one-street onsen town in Shimane with several inns and two beautiful old public bath houses. It's a piece of 1920s Japan (think Studio Ghibli) that somehow survived into the 21st century — full of classic wooden buildings and geta sandals clip-clopping on the street.

JR Yunotsu Station is on the San'in Main Line, west of Izumo. The station is a 1km walk from the main part of town. There is limited bus service to and from the station. If you have a reservation at a ryokan or inn in town, ask them to pick you up.

Do

As an onsen town, the main activity here is bathing. Although your inn or hotel may have natural hot spring water pumped in, going out to visit other baths is well worthwhile.

• <do name="Senyakuto" alt="泉薬湯" address="208-1 Yunotsu-chō" directions="" phone="+81 0855-65-2052" email="" fax="" url="" hours="5:30AM-8:20PM" price="¥300"> The first bath developed in the area. It's extremely simple without any of the typical small showers or taps for washing. Just scoop water from the pools.</do>

• <do name="Yakushiyu" alt="薬師湯" address="Yunotsu-chō" directions="" phone="+81 0855-65-4894" email="" fax="" url="" hours="5AM-9PM" price="¥300 adults, ¥150 children"> A short walk up the main street. This Meiji-era (1872) building is highly ranked by the Japan Onsen Association. The upstairs is a relaxing place to take a break.</do>

Sleep

• <sleep name="Asagiya" alt="" address="1109-17 Yunotsu-chō" directions="" phone="+81 0855-65-2126" email="" fax="" url="http://www.izumo-net.ne.jp/~asagiya" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥4200 per person"> On the road into town, next to the water on the bend just before the large parking area. Though the room rate only includes breakfast, the restaurant has reasonable prices.</sleep>

• <sleep name="Kiunso" alt="" address="202-1 Yunotsu-chō" directions="" phone="+81 0855-65-2008" email="" fax="" url="http://www.kiunsoh.com" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥8500 per person, including two meals"> 14 tatami rooms and a lovely facility. Great food.</sleep>

Hamada

Further along the San'in Main Line, the seaside recreation of Hamada (浜田市) is worth a stop during nice weather, especially if you have kids or a surfboard in tow. Tourist information is available at JR Hamada Station.

• <see name="Aquas Aquarium" alt="" address="1117-2 Kushiro-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0855-28-3900" email="" fax="" url="http://www.aquas.or.jp/english/e-index.html" hours="W-M 9AM-5PM, to 6PM August" price="¥1500 adults, ¥500 children"> A small but interesting aquarium with 10,000 fish and mammals across 400 species. The main tank has a tunnel you can walk as sharks swim above. Buses run from the station (15 minutes).</see>

• The park next to the aquarium has a great adventure playground for kids. Kagura shows are held in the park on weekends (winter excepted). Kagura is traditional outdoor theater performed by actors with fixed-expression masks and spectacular costumes. They're accompanied by musicians on traditional instruments, notably drums and bamboo flute. Shows last for about an hour and tell stories of heroes vanquishing dragons. Entrance to the park and the kagura show is free.

• <do name="Iwami Seaside Park" alt="" address="" directions="" phone="+81 0855-28-2231" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price=""> Also close to Aquas, Iwami Seaside Park has nice beaches for swimming, snorkeling, and surfing. There are cabins and campsites for rent. Beware of strong currents on rough days, though. Nearby Kokufu Beach is said by some to be the best surf spot in Shimane. The surf varies — better in winter, but extremely cold. In the summer, the water is warm, but the sea may be flat.</do>

• Look for the Iwami Tatami ga Ura rock configuration out in the water — it was created by an earthquake in 1872 that caused the seabed to rise 1.5 meters and left circular rocks protruding above the seashore.

• Hamada Castle was built in 1620 and destroyed in the final days of the Tokugawa shogunate. The foundations are surrounded by a pleasant park, on a hill overlooking the harbor. The ruins of Iwami-Kokubunji also have some interest — the temple was believed to have been built in the late 8th century, although today only the great foundation stones of its tower remain.

Masuda

At Masuda (益田市), it's decision time — either continue on the San'in Main Line to Hagi or catch the JR Yamaguchi Line toward Tsuwano and Yamaguchi. Alternately, direct buses run between Masuda and Hiroshima.

Iwami Kotsu buses run to the temples from JR Masuda Station.

• <see name="Ikoji" alt="医光寺" address="4-29 Someba-cho" directions="Bus to Ikoji-mae" phone="+81 0856-22-1668" email="" fax="" url="" hours="8:30AM-5PM" price="¥500"> Built in 1363, this temple is known for having hosted the famous Zen Buddhist monk and artist Sesshu (1420-1506) as its fifth chief priest from 1460 to 1485. Sesshu designed a garden here, now designated an important cultural property. The main gate was relocated from Nanao Castle.</see>

• <see name="Manpukuji" alt="万福寺" address="25-33 Higashi-Masuda" directions="Bus to Orido" phone="+81 0856-22-0302" email="" fax="" url="http://www13.ocn.ne.jp/~mannyou/" hours="8:30AM-5PM" price="¥500"> Built by the Masuda family, this temple's garden was also designed by Sesshu, and its Kamakura-style main hall was designated a nationally important cultural property.</see>

• <eat name="Minori Shokai" alt="寿し処みのり" address="11-7 Ekimae-cho" directions="Minori Masuda building" phone="+81 0856-22-1356" email="" fax="" url="http://www.minori-shokai.jp/" hours="Tu-Su 11AM-2PM, 5-10PM" price="Lunch ¥800, Dinner ¥1500-4000"> Good sushi made from local catch, close to the station.</eat>

Tsuwano

Tsuwano (津和野町) is on the JR Yamaguchi Line, which branches from the San'in Main Line at Masuda and terminates at Shin-Yamaguchi, the closest shinkansen station. However, on weekends (daily in July/August), there's a second option: a train pulled by a steam locomotive built in the early 1900s, the SL Yamaguchi-gō, runs once a day between Shin-Yamaguchi and Tsuwano (¥1620 adults, ¥810 children).

Much of Tsuwano can be covered on foot, but there are bicycles for rent across the street from JR Tsuwano Station.

See

Tonomachi (殿町通り) is the main thoroughfare in town. It's lined with old shops, samurai houses, and sake breweries, along with a number of small, charming museums. Tens of thousands of koi (carp) live in the narrow canals that run through the area.

Washi (paper) has been made in Tsuwano for hundreds of years. Several craft shops along the road sell traditional washi, and a few allow you to try your hand at making some.

• Tsuwano Castle (津和野城跡) was built around 1325 and demolished during the Meiji Restoration, five and a half centuries later. The massive stone foundations are pretty much all that remains, but the summit offers views over the valley and town. It can be reached via chair lift (¥450, 10AM-5PM) near Taikodani Inari Jinja; alternatively, from Taikodani, walk down to the car park and along the road about 50 meters, then follow a small path on your right — the walk will take around 30 minutes.

• <see name="Taikodani Inari Jinja" alt="太皷谷稻成神社" address="409 Ushiroda, Tsuwano-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0856-72-0219" email="" fax="" url="http://www.tsuwano.ne.jp/inari" hours="" price="Free"> One of the Five Great Inari Shrines. Taikodani was built in 1773 by Tsuwano's seventh generation feudal lord Kamei Norisada to enshrine a share of the fox spirit worshipped at Fushimi Inari in Kyoto. The walk up the mountain-side, through a thousand bright red torii, leads to a great view over the town.</see>

• <see name="Chapel of Saint Maria" alt="瑪麗亞教堂" address="Ushiroda, Tsuwano-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0856-72-0251" email="" fax="" url="" hours="7:30AM-5PM" price=""> In the area known as Otome-toge behind the station. 36 Japanese Christians were martyred here during the Meiji Period. This small church is run as a memorial to them by the Tsuwano Catholic Church (津和野天主教會), which has a larger facility for worship nearby on Tonomachi.</see>

• If you're lucky enough to be in town on April 2, follow the crowds to the local shrine Washibara Hachiman-gu for yabusame, the awe-inspiring annual horseback archery festival.

Eat & Sleep

There are plenty of food stands along Tonomachi. Many visitors come through on tour buses, so most restaurants serve lunch but close early in the evening. If you are staying overnight, and your accommodation does not include meals, take care not to leave eating until too late.

• <sleep name="Star Inn" alt="民宿星旅館" address="53-6 Oaza Ushiroda, Tsuwano-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0856-72-0136" email="" fax="" url="http://www.iwami.or.jp/dai/school/yado.htm" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥6500, includes breakfast and dinner"> Family ryokan just a minute from JR Tsuwano Station.</sleep>

• <sleep name="Noren-yado Meigetsu" alt="明月メイゲツ" address="665 Oaza-Ushiroda, Tsuwano-cho" directions="" phone="+81 0856-72-0685" email="" fax="" url="" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥10,500, includes breakfast and dinner"> Very nice ryokan just off Tonomachi. Some rooms have own bath; others just use the ofurou.</sleep>

Yamaguchi

Yamaguchi (山口) is on the JR Yamaguchi Line from Masuda, and is connected to the San'yo Shinkansen via Shin-Yamaguchi Station; local trains run between the two (15-25 minutes). Only a few Nozomi trains stop at Shin-Yamaguchi, but most Hikari and all Kodama trains do. Other transit options include the SL-Yamaguchi steam locomotive from Tsuwano and the Hagi-go bus from Hagi.

Hiroyo Ouchi, lord of the region, founded the city in 1360. It was planned in conscious emulation of far-off Kyoto, but the city's fall in 1551 brought an end to those comparisons. Today, it is the prefectural capital. Most of the sights are in the "old town" near JR Yamaguchi Station. City buses run from the station.

• <see name="Rurikōji" alt="瑠璃光寺" address="7-1 Kayama" directions="Bus to Kenchōmae" phone="+81 083-924-9139" email="" fax="" url="" hours="9AM-5PM" price="Free"> This temple's five-story pagoda is something of a city symbol. Also noteworthy are the lovely temple grounds and the tombs of several medieval lords.</see>

• <see name="Sesshu's Garden at Joueiji" alt="常栄寺雪舟庭" address="2001 Miyanoshita" directions="JR train to Miyano" phone="+81 083-922-2272" email="" fax="" url="" hours="8AM-5PM" price="¥300"> This rock garden was designed by the landscape master Sesshu, with placements intended to evoke various mountains of Japan and China.</see>

• <see name="Xavier Memorial Church" alt="ザビエル記念聖堂" address="4-1 Kameyama-chō" directions="" phone="+81 083-920-1549" email="" fax="" url="http://www.xavier.jp" hours="Museum Thu-Tu 9AM-5:30PM, Catholic mass Su 9:30AM" price="¥300 for the museum"> Dedicated to St. Francis Xavier, who visited Japan as a missionary in 1549–51 and spent several months in Yamaguchi. The first floor is a museum dedicated to "Sabieru" and his travels, and mass is held on the second floor. The dazzling white interior and angular sea-blue windows of the chapel were designed by a pair of Italian architects, Father Constantino Ruggeri and Luigi Leoni.</see>

• <see name="Akiyoshidai National Park" alt="秋吉台" address="" directions="" phone="+81 083-762-0640" email="" fax="" url="http://www.ymg.urban.ne.jp/home/akihaku/Englishpage/English.html" hours="" price=""> This fascinating park unfolds across 50 sq. miles of karst topography, with more than 400 limestone caves. It is the second largest grassland in Japan, kept that way with annual grass burn-offs each February. The area is also rich in fossils — ancient rhinos, tigers, and elephants have been excavated from the plateau. The star attraction is Akiyoshi-do (秋芳洞), the largest cave in Japan and the second largest in all of Asia. It's open for tours 8:30AM-4:30PM (¥1200 adults, ¥600 children). There's also a natural history museum. The park is best reached by direct bus from Shin-Yamaguchi Station, though there is also service from JR Yamaguchi Station, Hagi, and Shimonoseki. Once inside the park, Akiyoshi-do and the main observatory can be reached on foot, but cars or "karst taxis" are necessary to reach other caves. A one-day taxi pass will cost ¥800.</see>

Eat & Sleep

Most hotels are in the expensive Yuda Onsen area, which can be reached via JR Yuda Onsen Station on the JR Yamaguchi Line (10 minutes). Some will offer transfers to and from Shin-Yamaguchi Station.

Shrimp is the best of the local catch — it's on almost every menu in town.

• <eat name="ANDO Luck" alt="ANDO吉祥" address="Terminal Hotel 1F" directions="" phone="+81 083-973-3246" email="" fax="" url="http://ando.kissho.info" hours="11:30AM-2PM, 5:30-11PM" price="¥3500"> Cocktails and creative takes on Japanese hors d'oeuvres. It's outside the north entrance of Shin-Yamaguchi Station.</eat>

• <eat name="La Francesca" alt="ラ・フランチェスカ" address="7-1 Kameyama-chō" directions="" phone="+81 083-934-1888" email="" fax="" url="http://www.xavier-cam.co.jp/lafrancescajp" hours="11:30AM-4:30PM, 5:30-9:30PM" price="Lunch sets from ¥1575, dinner sets from ¥5250, a la carte dishes from ¥1260"> Pizza, pasta, and seafood. It's in the Hotel Francesca.</eat>

• <sleep name="Comfort Hotel Shin Yamaguchi" alt="" address="1255-1 Ogori-Shimogo" directions="" phone="+81 083-974-2511" email="" fax="" url="http://www.comfortinn.com/hotel-yamaguchi-japan-JP063" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥5500 single"> Western style rooms with free continental breakfast and Internet access. As the name suggests, it's about 40 meters from Shin-Yamaguchi Station.</sleep>

• <sleep name="Matsudaya Hotel" alt="" address="3-6-7 Yuda Onsen" directions="" phone="+81 083-922-0125" email="" fax="" url="http://www.matsudayahotel.co.jp" checkin="" checkout="" price="Rooms from ¥32,550 single, ¥42,000 double"> Beautifully sculpted hotel situated in a garden from the Edo period. Natural hot springs and seasonal cuisine are available.</sleep>