Batumi
Batumi is the capital city of the Autonomous Republic of Ajara in the country of Georgia.
Understand
Batumi's coastal location and sub-tropical climate make it a popular holiday destination. It's the party capital of the region with a night life to match which increasingly includes big name international DJs on the beach-front clubs. Expect to party on the beaches with Russians, Armenians, Azerbaijanis, Iranians, Turks, Dutch, and, of course, Georgians.
Also, Batumi has an interesting architecture, mixing modern attempts with old architecture.
Climate
Batumi and its vicinity is one of the important tourism and resort zones on the Georgian Black Sea littoral. The climate is humid subtropical. The low annual range of temperature, with a mild winter and warm summer is a characteristic of the city and of the Georgian coast as well. The average annual temperature is 14.5°C. The average temperature in January, the coldest month, is 7.1°C and in August, the warmest month, 23.2°C. The annual precipitation is 2,560 mm. Showers are frequent. It rarely snows but when it does, the snow melts easily. The average annual temperature of the sea is 16.7°C at the shore.
Talk
The official and majority language is Georgian. Nonetheless, English, Russian, and Turkish are also commonly spoken. Russian is spoken by most older Georgians, while English is spoken by many (though hardly most) younger ones. In addition, because of the large number of Turkish tourists, it's not uncommon for locals to speak Turkish, or at least simple Turkish phrases.
Get in
By plane
- 1 Batumi International Airport. (BUS IATA) is 2 km (1.2 mi) south of the city
The following airlines operate service to/from Batumi International Airport:
- Anda Air (Kiev-Zhuliany, Kryvyi Rih)
- ATA Airlines (Tehran)
- Belavia (Minsk)
- Georgian Airways (Donetsk, Kharkiv, Kiev-Boryspil, Moscow-Domodedovo, Odessa, Tbilisi, Ben Gurion International Airport / Tel Aviv)
- Sundor Airlines (Tel Aviv) (seasonal)
- Turkish Airlines (Istanbul IST)
- Wings of Lebanon (Beirut)
- Buta Airways (Baku)
By bus
There are three bus/marshrutka stations in Batumi:
- 2 Batumi Bus Station (Old Bus Station) (close to the northern end of the promenade; just go east across the railway tracks). This one has long distance marshrutkas to Kutaisi, Tbilisi, Poti, etc.
- 3 Batumi Bus Terminal. Large buses to foreign destinations.
- 4 Marshrutkas to Sarpi, Tbilisi Square. Sarpi: 2 lari, 20 min.
From specific destinations:
- Tbilisi – Buses and marshrutkas operate regularly between Batumi and Tbilisi: 6-7 hr. 25 lari (Sep 2018). The scenery along the way is breathtaking.
- Akhaltsikhe (via Khashuri) – 08:30, and 11:30. 6 hr. 20 lari.
- Akhaltsikhe (via Khulo, Jun-Aug) – 10:00. 6 hr. 18 lari.
- Borjomi – 1-2 early ones. 4½ hr. 17 lari.
Turkey: Daily buses also operate between Trabzon or Istanbul and Batumi (or Sarpi), with stops in Rize and the border crossing at Sarpi. Some coming from/going to Tbilisi. Check out Metro Turizm and Lüks Karadeniz. (Make sure you meet all visa requirements before crossing the border into Georgia.) Buses will generally wait for you the other side of the border, but marshrutkas are less reliable. From Sarpi you can take a minibus for 1 lari to bring you the short distance to the center of Batumi—you need a Batumi Card to pay the bus though, but just ask some passengers and give em 1 lari.
By car
Batumi is on the E70 and S2 roads, which stretch north to Poti, and south into Turkey and along the Turkish coast to Samsun. The E97 road connects Batumi with Abkhazia, Russia and Crimea to the north, and also to Trabzon, Rize and Aşkale in Turkey to the south.
By train
- 5 Batumi Central Station (about two kilometres north of the centre). 06:00–01:00. Several local buses (No. 2, No. 15, No. 8, etc.) go by the station – check out the live traffic here.
Georgian Railways operates several daily (+one night) fast trains between Batumi and Tbilisi. During the summer, an extra train Batumi-Tbilisi-Yerevan also operates. There are also slow trains to Kutaisi and Ozgureti, one pair each. Daily trains are typical by western standards. For the night trains, there are 3 classes: In first class, there are two people per cabin, the berths are a little short, narrow and hard but rather comfortable, and linen is provided. First class costs 40 lari, second class costs 23 lari, seats cost 13 lari (do not rely on the latter though, a check at the station in March '19 suggests that this option is not always available). Since the schedule changes quite often, you can check before hand on the Georgian Railways website - be careful with the simplified version of the timetable - the Georgian version tends to be updated more often than the foreign ones (check the last update timestamp on both to be sure). However, the ticket booking system always has correct times.
Train tickets can be bought online, which is the easiest as trains tend to fill up fast (except local ones). You can do it at the station or from an office in the old town at 5 General Mazniashvili St (between Melashvili and Abashidze). This office is very plain and nondescript with no signs in English. The door and window frames are green and some metal chairs are visible inside. Hours are 09:00 to 18:00.
Unless taking the slow train to/from Kutaisi or Ozgureti, reserve your seats in advance on the weekends, as many Georgians flock to the seaside.
By boat
Ferries run from Sochi, Russia and from Ilyichevsk, near Odessa, Ukraine (US$145, 42 hours, irregular service). More boats are operated from Poti (5 lari with marshrutka and take one hour). It's a kind of Freighter travel. Probably best to call first to make inquiries, to avoid coming back from Poti empty-handed. The booking office is on Kutaisi 34, but the staff only speaks Russian and are not very helpful.
A boat operates between Sochi, Russia to Batumi, Georgia. It is a high speed hydrofoil which operates three times a week: W 10:30, F 09:30, Su 10:30. In 2010, the cost was 3,500 руб for adults and 1,750 руб for children. The number is +7-8622-609-622 or +7-918-409-12-96. Sochi port schedule
Get around
By bus
There is the usual choice of marshrutkas crossing the city in all directions. The newer city buses require a Batumi Card to be ridden.
By bicycle
An automatic bike sharing scheme, called BatumVelo is available to rent bicycles and ride along the beaches.
See
- Black Sea. Enjoy the waves and admire the beach, the port, and the Ottoman-era clock tower
- 1 Music fountain (Dancing Fountains). A nice spectacle at night where fountains are operated to the sound of and music.
- 2 Dolphinarium. Shows start at 16:00, 19:00, 21:00 (except M). 15-20 lari.
- 3 Batumi Botanical Garden (Take minibus 31 across the cablecar station in the direction to the coast on the north. It costs 50 tetri and finishes at the parking of the botanical garden). Daily 08:00-21:00. Georgia has a remarkable tradition of (royal) botanical gardens. It is a quiet spot, next to the Black Sea on a high cliff and it both green and cool. Plan on a visit here to take a half day to nearly a full day as it is very large. Expensive by Georgian standards but definitely worth seeing. 15 lari.
- 4 Medea statue (in the center of the city). Statue of Medea and the Golden Fleece in the centre of the city, near the Iranian/Azerbaijani joint consulate.
Places of worship
Museums
- 10 Archaeological Museum, 77, Ilia Chavchavadze str, ☏ +995 422 23694, +995 422 24013. 10:00–18:00 (closed Su). Surprisingly good little museum with helpful and friendly staff. Georgian, Russian and English info and guides. Thorough background info, foreign coins, bronze vessels, glassware, ceramic, etc. Good collection of classical vases. Somewhat unpredictable opening hours. 3 lari adult, 1 lari student.
- 11 Adjara Art Museum (State Museum of Art), 8, Gorgiladze str, ☏ +995 422 27 38 94, artmuzeumi@gmail.com. 10:00–18:00 (closed M). Paintings of famous Georgian and foreign artists, sculptures and some samples of decorative art. 1 lari.
- 12 The Nobel Brothers Batumi Technological Museum, 3, Leselidze str, ☏ +995 88 222 7 11 75. 10:00–18:00 (closed M). Exhibits inventions introduced to Batumi at the end of 19th - beginning of 20th centuries by Nobel Brothers, Rotschilds and Mantashev. 2 lari.
- Khariton Akhvlediani Museum. 10:00–17:00 (closed M). Houses archaeological materials of XII-IX c.c. B.C 1 lari.
Further afield
- 13 Makhuntseti Bridge and Waterfall (Tamara Bridge) (take the bus to Keda from the Batumi Bus Station (2 lari)). This is a nice half day trip with a great waterfall and an impressive strong bridge, even though she looks like collapsing every instance. In summer, people jump from the bridge into the water, so bring a towel if you dare. There is a nice 4-6-hr hike from Zeda Makhuntseti (up behind the waterfall) and then down into Kveda Makhuntseti again. Free.
- 14 Remains of Gonio Fortress, village Tsikhisdziti (Catch a bus from Tbilisi Square to Sarpi (1 lari) and tell the driver you want to get out at Gonio.), ☏ +995 595 352120. 10:00–17:00 (closed M). Located at the sea shore the ruins host stunning views and interesting architecture. 3 lari.
- 15 Petra Fortress, village Tsikhisdziti, ☏ +995 590 880 121. M-Su 10:00-18:00. Early medieval complex.
Do
Walk along the 'Bulvar' and watch the beach. During daytime families and youngsters play, during nighttime it is the favourite place for couples and party-goers. There are a number of restaurants and bars both on the beach and a little inland. The area is generally safe, but watch out for pick-pocketing. Batumi also has many casinos, for visitors so inclined. These tend to have an over-21 policy.
- 1 Panoramic Wheel (At the end of the seaside Blv and beginning of the port.). Attraction total time : 7min 5 lari.
- 2 Cable car. Summer 09:00-02:00, winter 11:00-18:00. Goes directly to the small (about 250 m height) nearby hill with a nice restaurant on top of it. Stunning views, especially at night. 15 lari.
- Aqua Park, 12, Khimshiashvili St. (3 km from the city centre), ☏ +995 422 210101.
- Olympic Swimming Pool, Batumi Plaza Hotel, 50 Chavchavadze str. M-F 07:00-23:00, Sa-Su 09:00-21:00.
- Boat tour (in front of Panoramic Wheel). Lots of boats offering boat tours. Yacht can also be chartered. from 15 lari.
- 3 6 May Park. Nice park with Nurigeli Lake in the middle of it. There is also a zoo corner in the northern part of it, but some animals (monkeys in particular) are kept in quite a tiny cages, so animal lovers might not enjoy it.
Theatres
- 4 Batumi Drama Theatre, 1 Rustaveli Ave, ☏ +995 422 274280.
- 5 Batumi Puppet and youth state Theatre, M.Abashidze Ave. 49, ☏ +995 422 276234, +995 422 270593.
Events
- Black Sea Jazz Festival. July 24–27. Annual Jazz festival.
Buy
The main (open-air) food and clothes market in the city is on the Eastern side, near the sea on the main (Chavchavadze) street. In poor weather the sellers move down side streets under umbrellas and are harder to spot, but still there. Vegetables and grains are much cheaper here than at the smaller indoor 'markets' dotted around the city.
Closer to the main crossroads is 'tobacco street' (still on Chavchavadze). The salesmen are easily visible with their wares heaped up in bowls on stands. Prices start at about 50 lari a kilo (locals can pay half this) and the product can be rather good. As always, watch the scales so as not to be ripped off. They are more than willing to make a small taster cigarette if requested.
As per usual in Georgia, prices are almost always slightly higher in the supermarkets than in the small family-run shops. This is counter to what most westerners will be used to. The difference is about 5–10%.
- Goodwill Supermarket, Chavchavadze Avenue. Many goods not available in smaller shops. Many of the products come from Germany.
- Carrefour, Tbel-Abuseridze St (Bus #12), ☏ +995 422 20 03 74. Supermarket at the Black Sea Mall
- Metro City Forum, 1 Lech and Maria Kaczynski Street, ☏ +995 577 14 17 14. Shopping mall
- Nikora Supermarket. Georgian supermarket chain operating at several locations in Batumi.
Eat
What
Western Georgia has plenty of local flavours, and a local specialty is a type of khachapuri named acharuli khachapuri (Ajarian khachapuri) that resembles a Viking boat, with the cheese all mixed up with an egg in the centre.
The (vegan) Georgian classic, lobiani (kidney bean paste in bread or pastry) is available at any small bakery around the city. Most are 1 lari but can be up to 1.50. Perhaps the best lobianis in the city are sold just north of the cross section of K. Gamsakhurdia and V. Gorgasali streets, in a nondescript bakery opposite Carpisa and Georgian Kitchen. Unlike other doughy lobianis in the city, they are triangular with flaky pastry. 1.20 lari (as of Mar 2019).
Since Batumi is also a seaport, you have to try the fish here! Head to the local 1 Fish Market, buy some of your choice and take with you to your ho(s)tel, or let it be prepared at one of the many restaurants there. Preparation costs 3-5 lari, plus the fish 20-30 lari per kg. Salmon is quite cheap, flounder a little more expensive. Take some Ojakhuri or mashed potatoes with the fish. Btw. it is better to buy the fish yourself, since the restaurants charge about twice the original price for the fish when ordered inside of the restaurant. And so you really know what you get.
Where
- Adjara, Kutaisi street 11 (close to HB restaurant - a german style place (it's the only blue building in this area). A wide variety of different kinds of local and international food (khachapuris, pkhalis, pakhlava etc.) If you crave for something sweet then their brownie is something for you. They have free Wi-Fi and a friendly English-speaking staff.
- Boulangerie (ბულანჟერი), M. Abashidze Street 11 (near the corner of Mazniashvili Street). A French-style bakery/cafe which looks quite posh but has much lower prices than similar places in Tbilisi. A very nice cappuccino or latte is 3 lari. There are many cakes, croissants, etc.
- Cafe La Vita Batumi (on Rustaveli Avenue, across the park from the Theater.).
- Cafe Literaturuli, K. Gamsakhurdia St 18 (near Europe Square (formerly Era Square)). This upscale bookstore-cafe has a number of branches in Tbilisi (in Kala, Vake, Vera, and Saburtalo), but the Batumi location is all the more attractive given the relative dearth of good and service-oriented restaurants in Batumi. Coffees, cakes, and basic Georgian sandwiches (plus khachapuri and lobiani) all available, although the menu seems more like a guideline to what might be available on any given day rather than a list of what's actually in the kitchen.
- 2 Press Cafe, 1 Akhmed Melashvili Street, Batumi (on the coastal road right next to the Ukrainian restaurant), ☏ +995 422 27 52 79. daily 10:00-01:00. It has fast Wi-Fi (for Batumi) and cheap food and drinks, but beware at some point you will be kicked out suddenly for a school group.
- Privet iz Batumi, 39 Abashidze (near Europe Square (formerly Era Square)). This charming "colonial Russia" theme cafe is a Batumi institution, with Georgians as well as foreigners peopling its picturesque outdoor tables. The menu is short on hot dishes, but the many kinds of blinis are delicious.
- Radio Cafe & Bar, 11, Rustaveli str. (on the main street), ☏ +995555974977. 15:00-00:00. Good place to go if you are looking for non-Georgian food in Batumi. Good choice of wine and cocktails. Staff are very friendly.
- San Remo Restaurant (on the seaside, at the south end of the Batumi Boulevard walking path). Elegant, with good Georgian and international food.
- 3 Munich (მიუნჰენი), Kutaisi/Kostava str.8/5, 6000, ☏ +995 422 227284. 10:00-02:00. Restaurant with German traditional cuisine. Pizza, Seafood and Vegan dishes are also served. Paying: Visa, American Express, Mastercard and Cash. Restaurant has open-air seats also. A bit overpriced. US$15 for one course meal per person.
Drink
- Eredeli's Bar (ერედელის ბარი), N. Baratashvili St. 1 (Down the stairs to a door with no sign and no name on the diagonal street just next to Europe Square (formerly Era Square) where the monument to Medea and the Golden Fleece is.). Attracts locals and expat English teachers. There are no signs and you might have to ring the doorbell on nights with live music, but it's not a private club. The Caesar salad is excellent. It's also a gallery and it has Wi-Fi.
- Metro Bar, Melashvili st. 11, ☏ +995 8 422 27 30 42. A nice but small bar that often has live music and attracts locals as well as expat English teachers.
- 1 Vinyl Bar, Dumbadze str. (on Europe Square (formerly Era Square), near the Iranian and Azerbaijani consulates), ☏ +995 93331499. Small, cozy place to hang out for beer, pizza and live music. Great staff and great service.
- 2 [dead link] The Cork Irish Bar, 22 Noe Zhordania Street (head north on K. Gamsakhurdia street to the gas station, then turn left down Jordania street), ☏ +995 568 67 50 27, corkirishbar@gmail.com. daily 15:00-02:00. Great Irish pub near the centre of Batumi. The bar is larger than it seems from the road. Quite new (opened July 2018) but manages to draw a crowd. Majority expats but still frequented by a fair few locals. Friendly staff, English, Russian, Georgian and Turkish-speaking.
Sleep
Batumi increasingly attracts investors and well heeled visitors from Russia, Iran and Central Asia. The emphasis is on casinos and luxury hotels. Prices vary depending on proximity to the beach and level of service provided, but mostly depending on the season. For private accommodation, prices are from 40 lari for a double room including breakfast. But in winter you might get lucky and have one for 20 lari.
Budget
- 1 Batumi Hostel (batumihostel@hotmail.com), 13 Mazniashvili Street (At the corner of Kostava Street), ☏ +995 555 507 705. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Comfortable hostel in a nice house in the middle of the old town. Entrance is camouflaged. Discounts available in and from Friends Hostel in the old town of Tbilisi. Free Wi-Fi. Laundry. Private room also available. Two showers and bathroom, kitchen, view on piazza and sea from balcony. Seasonal property (opened for 2012 season in May). Dorm 20 lari.
- 2 Eiffel Tower Hostel (eiffeltowerhostel@gmail.com), M. Abashidze 39 (One block from Europe Square,Above Cafe: Privet iz Batumi), ☏ +995 577 98 5725. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Excellent place run by a Welshman, an American and a Georgian woman. This place is fun and relaxing, and in a great location. If you're adventurous sleep on the top level of the 3 storey bunkbeds. Dorm 25 lari.
- 3 Globus Hostel Batumi, 54 Mazniashvili str (Formerly Rover Hostel. In the centre of Old Batumi, 2 blocks down from the Tbilisi square), ☏ +995 422 27 67 21 (Call ahead or the door may be locked), batumi@roverhostel.com. Check-out: 12:00. Rooms are bright and clean. The hostel is new and fresh. Air conditioning, free laundry, free Wi-fi, free sheets and towels, free maps, free tea and coffee 24h. Discounts in local cafés and in Rover Hostel Tbilisi. Dorms: US$15.
- Gulnasi's Guesthouse, 24/A Lermontov Street (off Chavchavadze Street, minibus 25, 28, 45 from bus-station; minibus 20 or bus 101 from train station - get off at Lermontov), ☏ +995 599 797224, Homestay@mail.ru. It's possible to use the kitchen; hot showers, Wi-Fi, free meals will be offered frequently. Outside the summer season the same place is also a school for small children but in the summer season the kids will be on vacation. This may be the best budget option with wheelchair access. From €10.
- 4 [dead link] Hostel Retro, Pushkin Street 92 (from the train station, walk West along Pushkin street and look for the sign in Georgian/ English/ Russian), ☏ +995 577 75 85 39, dvdtam@rambler.ru. Check-in: 08:00-00:00, check-out: 08:00-12:00. One of the better hostels in the city, which has maintained its good rating over the years. Smallish, friendly. The owners and volunteers are welcoming and helpful. Great vibe to the place, seems to attract a real community of travellers. Excellent khachapuri from the bakery next door. Largely Russian-speaking but has friendly and fluent English-speaking volunteers, there are always at least a few English-speaking guests too. FB. 15/8 lari high/low season.
- Sky Hostel, Inarisidze St. 16/59 (Quite far out from the centre on the side of the city nearer Turkey upstairs in an old apartment building.), ☏ +995 790 27 66 70. A useful option if other places are full. Kitchen but no fridge. Wi-Fi and laundry are available. Most staff don't know a lot of English. Dorm 20 lari.
Mid-range
- Hotel EraPalace, 77 Z. Gorgiladze St (on the former 'Era' St), ☏ +995 222 20000, erapalace@gmail.com. From 120 lari.
- Iliko(?), Vakhtang Gorgasali St., between K. Gamsakhurdia Str. and Gen. Mazniashvili, in the heart of town. Reasonably clean. Only Russian and Georgian spoken. Situated in a quiet spot. Owners run Pyramid as well, which has similar prices. 20-40 lari for two people.
- Lavro, Pushkin St., between Tbilisis Moedani and Stalin Museum. A room for with no bathroom costs 20 lari (summer 2005). Reasonably clean, hot water.
- Mercury, 10/12 Chavchavadze St., near Tbilisis Moedani, in the heart of town, ☏ +995 422 277501. Check-out: 12:00. Reasonably clean. English spoken. Situated in a noisy spot, not worth the money 80 lari for two people.
- Hotel Ritsa, Z.Gamxakhurdia Street, no. 16, ☏ +995 222 73292. Clean, smart and modern hotel located in the old town. 60-100 lari for two people, breakfast included.
- Sputnik Boutique Hotel, Shervashidze Aghmarti, No: 28, ☏ +995 422 276066, info@hotelsputnik.com. Quiet environment, great view of Batumi. 70 lari for standard rooms with queen size beds.
Splurge
- 5 Sheraton Batumi Hotel, 28 Rustaveli St, ☏ +995 422 22 90 00. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Direct beach access and friendly service. 203 rooms including 26 suites.
- 6 Intourist Palace, 11 Ninoshvili St (on the promenade), ☏ +995 422 27 55 25. Grand, spacious with all amenities. From US$110.
- 7 Radisson Blu Hotel, Batumi, 1 Ninoshvili Street, ☏ +995 422 288 888, info.batumi@radissonblu.com. Designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi, located on the beachfront near business district.
- 8 Hilton Batumi, 40 Rustaveli Ave, ☏ +995-422-222299, batumi.info@hilton.com. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Between a park and the sea, in the middle of the city.
Stay safe
Batumi is generally quite safe. Drivers are more careful than in Tbilisi and the police are reliable for the high number of tourists coming through the city. However, more caution should be taken with street beggars than in Tbilisi. Very young children are often used as pickpockets, especially around the area just south of Batumi Piazza, and beggars are generally more aggressive than in the capital.
Cope
Laundry
Many hostels and apartments have washing machines, but laundry and dry cleaning services are available.
- 1 Diamond Shine (დაიმონდ შაინ), 118 Zurab Gorgiladze St (Diamond Shine is near (but not inside) the Batumi Mall. It's in a ground-floor storefront location.), ☏ +995 599 57 57 97. 10:00-19:00. The person on the phone did not speak English, but I was able to get a large plastic bag of clothes washed and folded with delivery for 30₾. They also offer dry cleaning. 30₾ for wash-and-fold service.
Go next
- Khulo — village in the mountains of Ajara, 3 hr drive east of Batumi
- Kobuleti — sleepy nearby coastal town
- Sarpi — border village with Turkey, 15 km south of Batumi
- Tbilisi — the capital of Georgia
- Kutaisi — historically the capital of western Georgia, Kutaisi is a must visit for its two UNESCO World Heritage sites
- Zugdidi — stopping off point on the way to Mestia and Svaneti. Marshrutkas run from the bus station.
Armenia
- Direct trains to Yerevan run daily during summertime. The train leaves at 15:35 and you'll arrive to Yerevan around 07:30. Second class (coupe, 4 people) costs 93 lari.
Turkey
- Direct buses from the terminal to various cities in Turkey. Coaches to Istanbul 60-80 lari depending on operator.
- Trabzon, Turkey – From the old bus terminal, near the centre, there is a marshkruta that runs by Rize until Trabzon for 25 TL.