Dún Laoghaire (pronounced and occasionally spelled "Dunleary", formerly called Kingstown) is a port and seaside town in County Dublin, 10 km south of Dublin. It's an early 19th century creation: Dublin itself was the traditional port, but the approach was hazardous, with several tragic shipwrecks. An alternative harbour was sought and Howth and Dún Laoghaire competed for this role. Howth lost out because it kept silting up, so for almost 200 years Dún Laoghaire was the main port of entry to Ireland, with ferries from England and Wales. In the early 21st century Dublin regained its role with greatly improved docks and approaches, and a motorway tunnel so that vehicles could bypass city congestion. The ferry terminals moved there and Dún Laoghaire became much quieter, though cruise liners sometimes call.

Get in

By train

Dart trains run every 10 mins or less from Malahide and Howth through central Dublin (Connolly, Tara St & Pearse stations) and the southern suburbs to 1 Dún Laoghaire Mallin Station. The trains continue south to Dalkey, Bray and Greystones. All these stations are within the Dublin "short hop zone" so the standard flat fare is €3.30 adult single, €6.25 day return, €2.40 single with LEAP card.

A further 3-5 mainline trains per day call on the route between Dublin Connolly, Wexford and Rosslare, which has ferries from Fishguard and Pembroke.

From Belfast, Newry, Drogheda or Sligo, change at Connolly for the Dart train. From other cities (eg Galway, Limerick or Cork) trains run to Dublin Heuston, take the tram to reach Connolly.

By bus

Dublin Bus 46a runs here from city centre every 10 mins or so. The route is from Phoenix Park, Dublin Northside through Phibsborough, O'Connell St downtown, then south via Leeson St, Donnybrook, and Stillorgan Rd (N11) to Foxrock then turning up Kill Lane, Mountjoy and York Rd to Dún Laoghaire railway station.

Aircoach 703 runs hourly between Dublin Airport and Dún Laoghaire, stopping by the Royal Marine Hotel, and continuing to Dalkey and Killeney. It's scheduled to take an hour but is often snarled in Southside traffic. Aircoach 702 between the airport and Greystones & Bray runs further inland via Cabinteely and Loughlinstown.

Inter-city buses bypass Dún Laoghaire so you have to travel into central Dublin and come out again. The closest approach is by the bus from Wexford, which calls at Loughlinstown 4 km south, you could pick up a local bus or taxi there. But the train would bring you to town centre.

By boat

The big ferries no longer come here, but you can still arrive old-style by Dublin Bay Cruises. They have daily sailings to Dublin and to Howth, landing at Dun Laoghaire's east pier. To Howth, they sail mid-March to September at 12:30, taking an hour, with views over Dalkey Island, Clontarf, Bull Island, Baily and Kish Lighthouses, Howth Head, Ireland's Eye and Lambay Island. The return sailing (from Howth west pier) is at 15:30. An adult single is €25, which includes a voucher to return by Dart train for only €2 if you don't sail back.

Get around

The sights are all within walking distance.

See

• 1 Dún Laoghaire Harbour has become a pleasant place to stroll since the ferries moved into Dublin. There are two long granite piers, the east and the west, with the shorter Carlisle & St Michael's piers in the middle. A plaque here commemorates the original Laoghaire, a 5th C High King of Ireland who used this as a sea base for raiding Britain and Gaul.

James Joyce Tower & Museum

• 2 National Maritime Museum of Ireland (Músaem Mhuirí Náisiúnta na hÉireann), Haigh Terrace, ☏ +353 1 280 0969. Daily 11:00-17:00. Situated in the former Mariner's Church. Exhibits include the Optic from the Bailey Lighthouse at Howth. Adult €6, child under 12 €3, family €12. (updated Jul 2019)
• Moran Park. The small park fronting the Maritime Museum, centred around the sculpture "Christ the King." In 1898 Moran Park House was an early receiver of a wireless test transmission, when Marconi himself sent reports of the local Regatta to this building for newspaper publication. (updated Oct 2019)
• 3 People's Park, Upper George's St. Beautifully laid out with different flower beds, this Victorian park has a children's play area and Tea Rooms. It's enclosed by wrought iron railings and gates and two very fine cast iron fountains. A market is held here every Sunday 11:00-16:00 year round. Free. (updated Jul 2019)
• 4 James Joyce Tower & Museum (Túr agus Músaem Shéamuis Seoige), 17 Sandycove Point (1 km south of Dun Laoghaire on the coast road), ☏ +353 1 280 9265. Daily 10:00-18:00. The Martello tower with its gun platform and living quarters remains much as Joyce described it. The Museum's collection includes letters, photographs, first and rare editions and personal possessions of Joyce as well as items associated with the Dublin of Bloom. First editions of most of Joyce's works are displayed, including the original Ulysses published by Shakespeare and Co in 1922. There's also one of two plaster death masks of Joyce by sculptor Paul Speck. Free. (updated May 2019)
• 5 Cabinteely (Cábán tSíle, "Sheila's Cabin"). ) is a parkland suburb 4 km south of Dún Laoghaire. Its main sights are the 18th C Cabinteely House, occasionally open for events, and two 12th C Celtic High Crosses. Cabinteely is about 2 km from the Luas tram Green Line. (updated Oct 2019)

Do

• Sandycove beach and the Forty Foot Deep are next to the Martello tower; there's a small beach with lifeguards. The "Forty Foot Deep" is traditionally a male nude bathing area, featured in Joyce's Ulysses. In the 1970s female activists successfully campaigned for the right to get equally cold and miserable here, albeit not as shrivelled. You can even scuba-dive in the Deep, where Dublin Bay Prawns and various squidgy-widgy things wave unfriendly limbs at you, but don't take a flying leap off the jetty before checking the depth below. The name refers to the height of the Martello tower rather than the sea depth, which is tidal, and in 2004 the city council were found liable when someone seriously crocked themselves on a rocky outcrop by trusting to the name "Forty Foot Deep".
• Pavilion Theatre, Marine Rd (By station), ☏ +353 1 231 2929. M-Sa 12:00-17:00. Has theatre, cinema, dance etc. (updated Jul 2019)

Buy

• O'Briens Wine, Unit 3, Pavilion II, Marine Road (By Station), ☏ +353 1 280-9827. M-Sa 10:30-22:00, Su 12:30-22:00. Choose from 800 wines & a wide range of beers and spirits. Wine from €8. (updated May 2019)
• RNLI Shop, 2 Queen's Rd A96 T447 (by Harbour), ☏ +353 1 280 4752. M-F 10:00-17:00; Sa Su 14:00-17:00. Official gift shop for the Royal National Lifeboat Institute. (updated Aug 2020)
• People's Park Market: Sunday 11:00-16:00, see above.
• Cornelscourt Shopping Centre, Bray Rd, Cabinteely, ☏ +353 1 2892677. 07:00-23:00. Contains a large Dunnes Stores (food, clothes, off-license and homeware), an optician, café, hair salon, pharmacy and newsagents. Free indoor/outdoor parking. (updated Aug 2020)

Eat

• George's Street is main drag, with a slew of the usual high street choices.
• Harry's Cafe Bar, 21 Upper George's St, ☏ +353 1 280-8337. M-Sa 09:00-16:00, Su 10:00-16:00. Great breakfast & lunches. Raspberry or Blueberry muffins are recommended. (updated May 2019)
• 1 Teddy's Ice Cream, 1a Windsor Terrace, ☏ +353 86 452 9394. Daily 11:30-21:00. A popular ice-cream parlour with multiple locations. (updated May 2019)
• Café 31 (Trentuno), Old Bray Road, Cabinteely D18 AK29 (next to Horse & Hound), ☏ +353 1 202 4767. M-W 11:00-21:00, Th-Sa 11:00-22:00, Su 13:00-21:00. Italian restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere, big portions. Kids menu available. (updated Aug 2020)

Drink

Dún Laoghaire has a dozen bars and 4 nightclubs, mostly along the main drag of George's Street.

• The Forty Foot, The Pavilion Centre, Marine Rd (Next to station), ☏ +353 1 231 1926. M-Th 08:00-23:30, F Sa 08:00-00:30, Su 08:00-23:00. A modern JD Wetherspoons chain pub. (updated May 2019)
• 1 O'Neills, 17 George's Street Upper, ☏ +353 1 280 2657. daily 10:00-00:00. Good pub with bar food. (updated May 2019)
• 2 Dunphys, 41 George's Street Lower, ☏ +353 1 280 1668. daily 12:30-23:30. Solid central pub. (updated May 2019)
• 3 McLouglins, 73 George's Street Upper, ☏ +353 1 284 6025. Old style bar with live sports on TV. (updated May 2019)
• 4 Horse & Hound, Old School House, Bray Road, Cabinteely (off N11), ☏ +353 1 285 3527. Daily 10:30-00:00. Well-known pub that retains its "village" vibe. Food also served. (updated Aug 2020)

Sleep

• 1 Marina House Hostel, 7 Dunleary Rd (100 m east of Salthill & Monkston train station), ☏ +353 1 284 1524. Right on DART and bus lines to central Dublin, but they only rent by the week, with 1 2 3 & 4 bedded rooms, no dorm. So it's more like student self-catering than a hostel. Kitchen & dining room, light breakfast is included. Rooms are en-suite. Laundry facilities, individual lockers, Wifi, TV lounge with open fire. Barbeque area weather permitting, this is Ireland. From €25 ppn. (updated May 2019)
• Royal Marine Hotel is a grand old pile facing the harbour, B&B double €150.
• 2 Rochestown Lodge Hotel, Killiney, Dun Laoghaire (2 km south of harbour), ☏ +353 1 285-3555. 3-star with spa and leisure centre. All rooms have Wi-Fi, satellite TV, work desk with phone, hairdryer, iron & board, tea & coffee making facilities. B&B double €120. (updated May 2019)

Connect

Dún Laoghaire has a good mobile and 4G signal with all Irish carriers. As of Aug 2020, there is 5G coverage from Eir and Vodafone but not Three.

Go next

• Dalkey is a heritage town a little way south of Dún Laoghaire, take the bus or walk. It has a 10th C church, two Norman castles and a picturesque town centre.
• Further south, the mountains rise in scenic County Wicklow.
• Central Dublin barely 30 mins away.