Campeche
Campeche is the capital and largest city in the state of Campeche, Mexico. It has a population around 250,000 people and growing. It sits in the northwestern area of the state. Historically it has long been the second city of the Yucatán Peninsula after Merida roughly 155 km to the north, the capital of the neighboring state of Yucatán. Campeche a port city on the Gulf of Mexico, with relaxed atmosphere and a charming Colonial old town designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Campeche is one of only two cities in North America (the other being Quebec City in Canada) to have its city walls still intact.
Understand
Campeche was founded in 1540 by the Spanish conquistadors as the city of San Francisco de Campeche (still its official name, though never used) on top of the old Maya town called Ah Can Pech (roughly, "place of snakes and ticks", supposedly for an ancient idol depicting a snake with a tick on its head). Campeche grew into the leading port in the Peninsula in the colonial era. The city's walls and a series of forts were built in the 16th century to guard against frequent pirate attacks. With independence from Spain at the start of the 1800s Campeche was at first part of the state of Yucatán, but separated with the creation of the State of Campeche mid century.
Today Campeche is a fast growing city, but has maintained its history with meticulously preserved walls and historic buildings. Especially outside of the city center, Campeche is a still fairly laid back place and can feel more like a small town. The city is still relatively compact and easy to get around, although as the city grows even bigger, that is slowly changing.
Get in
By plane
By bus
From Merida
From the ADO "centro histórico" bus station in Mérida, buses leave almost every 30 minutes for the two and a half-hour drive to Campeche, which costs between M$190 (2nd class but comfortable) and M$350 for ADO bus booked last minute (Nov 2023).
From Ciudad del Carmen
buses to Campeche are also very frequent and cost roughly M$130. The trip is about 2 hr 45 min, longer by second class bus. From Cancun, the trip to Campeche takes 6½ hours to complete and costs roughly M$300. There are four buses to Campeche every day. From Mexico City, Campeche is a lengthy 17-hour drive and this trip costs from M$800-950. A first class bus is recommended.
- 2 ADO Campeche Terminal, Av. Maestros Campechinos y Av. Casa de Justicia. Small terminal for a capital city, serves ADO and Sur buses. Ticket counters usually understaffed with long lines. No A/C and charges 7 pesos to use restroom.
By train
Tren Maya is a new intercity rail system that covers five states in the Yucatan Peninsula, including Campeche. The train provides frequent service to major cities, beach resort areas, and tourist destinations. From Campeche, passengers can take trains toward Merida and Cancun, or towards Palenque (with onward connections to Tren Interoceanico toward Coatzalcocos, Veracruz). Trains go to Merida and onward to Cancun. Trains to Palenque begin December 31, 2023.
- 3 San Francisco de Campeche railway station (Estación de San Francisco de Campeche), Periferico. Full-service station with ticketing, baggage check, and waiting areas with food and drink services.
Get around
Because Campeche is still a small city, it can be easy to navigate on foot, although the oppressive heat and humidity that dominates most of the year may make this impossible. If you are staying in the historic center, this is the best option.
Otherwise or for visiting attractions away from the old town, it is best to get around the city by taxi or bus. Taxi fares are charged by zone; to go from the ADO bus station to downtown, the cost is roughly M$30. The city runs many public buses. They tend to be small, hot, usually cramped and in varying states of disrepair. The fare, however, is cheap at just M$6, so they're convenient for budget travelers or the adventurous. The bus driver will make change, but don't try to offer large bills as they likely won't be accepted.
See
- 1 Baluarte de Santiago. It was built in the 18th century. It houses the botanical garden "X'much-haltún".
- Baluarate San Francisco. The roof of the bastion offers a panoramic view of the city.
- Campeche Archaeological Museum, Forte San Miguel. This old fort of Campeche is used as a display of Mayan artefacts found in different sites around the Yucatan peninsula. Overall a good small museum with informations in English. Entrance fee M$70 ( Nov. 2023)
- Puerta del Tierra (Earth door). It is very well preserved. The Land Gate provides the backdrop for a spectacular light and sound show that evoke tales of pirates, sea battles, and other events.
- 2 Baluarte de San Juan. It is a unique structure that was part of the big wall.
- Baluarte de La Soledad. Built in the 17th century, it houses a museum with archeological, ethnographical and historical pieces.
- Puerta del Mar (Sea Door). It has a simple facade, in the big door there is a galleon carved in stone.
- Carvajal Mansión. House built in the 17th century with Moorish decoration.
- Municipal Files. Built in the 19th century, first it was a school and then a prison.
- La Casa de las Artesanías Tukulná. Antique and beautiful remodeled house where Campeche's varied handicrafts are exhibited and sold.
- Pirate ship "Lorencillo". It is a tour around the bay and you can listen the narrative about the history of Campeche.
Do
- 1 Estadio Nelson Barrera Romellón, Benjamín Ganzo, San Joaquín. Modern small baseball stadium that is home field for the Piratas de Campeche, a professional baseball team in the Liga Mexicana de Beisbol. The Piratas play a 114-game season each year between April and September. The stadium is very modern with a friendly, intimate atmosphere. Clean sight lines guarantee that there's not a bad seat in the house. Affordable ticket prices, tasty food, and cheap cold beer make for a great evening in the ballpark.
Buy
There are tourist oriented shops in the historic center, although their prices are relatively high. The central market is quite small by Mexican standards and it doesn't offer handicrafts like many other do in the country. Outside the market, vendors hawk various items, the most interesting of which are hammocks, a Yucatan specialty.
For travellers looking for a piece of home or just wanting to buy clothing, there are several grocery/department stores located around the city. Super San Fransisco de Assiss has four locations in the city, one of which is on the Gulf of Mexico near the cinema. Another is located by the university, but it's not a central location. The biggest, and cheapest store, is Chedraui, located on Avenida Gobernadores about a 10 minute walk north of the old bus station. It features a full department store, a grocery store and a small restaurant, and has several banks in the vicinity.
Because Campeche is not very tourist oriented, knickknacks and handicrafts are hard to come by.
Eat
Campeche is well known for its seafood, especially shrimp (camarón) and shark (cazón) and both are widely available.
The only North American chains in the city are Burger King and Church's Chicken (located north of the cinema), so visitors have extra incentive to eat local. There are many small restaurants located in the historic center, all ranging in price, but try to watch food preparation before you buy. Outside of the historic centre, Avenida Gobernadores offers a plethora of eating establishments, but again, watch the food preparation and then decide.
Calle 59 is partly pedestrian between c. 10 & 12 and has a few bar/restaurants with outdoor tables
At the northern end of the malecon (about 4km) are several coctelerias that will serve the freshest seafood for lunch Competition is fierce enough that they will try to lure you with free drinks and/or a complimentary ride to the old town.
There are a few grocery stores outside the old town. All have a small restaurant, deli, bakery, grocery, meat and produce departments.
Budget
All these are in the city center:
Mid-range
- 4 Natura2000, Calle 12 # 155 (next to the Iglesia de Jesus church). For a good vegan/vegetarian option
- 5 Marganzo Restaurante, Calle 8 # 267. For local specialities
- 6 Los Abuelos, C. Bravo 8. Also a very good choice for local specialities.
- 7 Aduana Vasconcelos, C. 59 1, Zona Centro.
- 8 Patroni's Bar, C. 59.
Splurge
- 9 La Pigua, Av. Miguel Alemán 179-A.
Sweet
If you have a sweet tooth, the Chedraui bakery is a must. Donuts, sweet bread, danishes, muffins and cookies are all sold in bulk and baked fresh in store, and the prices are cheap.
Drink
Casa vieja del Rio has the best views over the central plaza and church, excellent for relaxing and people-watching from the balcony. Enter from the stairs in front of the tourist train stop, on the southern side of the plaza.
Sleep
There are a few hotels on the Malecon (Av. Adolfo Ruiz Cortines), which runs the entire length of the city along the Gulf of Mexico. Most are relatively expensive, but offer clean and comfortable accommodations. There are also a few hotels located in the historic center, particularly near the center square, and they are much cheaper in price. Unfortunately, because Campeche has a very small tourist industry, accommodations can be hard to find.
- 1 Baluartes Hotel, Av. 16 de Septiembre No. 128 (between calle 59 & 61, on the Bay). Built as a luxury hotel in 1960, it's seen better days, but still offers a convenient location and rooms with a good view of the Gulf. M$461.
- 2 Hotel Plaza Campeche, Calle 10 No. 126 A Colonia Centro C.P., ☏ +52 981 811 9900. The hotel in the historic centre of the city and port of Campeche, in front of San Marttins Park, located in the tourist, cultural and commercial area where every activity of the city is performed. M$1103.
- 3 Hotel Mision Campeche, Calle 10 No. 252, ☏ +52 981 816 4588. Located one block from the central plaza in the Centro Histórico; includes continental breakfast and wireless internet. M$1003.
- 4 Hotel Plaza Colonial, Calle 10 15, ☏ +52 981 811 9930. Pretty ochre colonial building fits into the historic center well and features a continental breakfast, wifi, and bathtub pool. M$943.
- 5 Hotel Castelmar, ☏ +52 981 811 1204. Cobalt blue exterior colored hotel here, with inner courtyard lined with porticoes, wrought iron railings, and shiny marble floors. Small pool and wifi. Breakfast might be a little spartan though. M$702.
- 6 Hotel Socaire, Calle 57 19. It has a really authentic colonial appearance, even more than the others, if that were possible. Pool, wifi, restaurant that serves breakfast attached.
- 7 Casa Mazejuwi, Calle 14 181, ☏ +52 981 127 1385. It's more or less a homestay that includes breakfast.
Go next
- Maya ruins The heritage of the ancient Maya is nearby. Those nearby are mostly smaller than the more famous ruins in Yucatán, they are still fascinating and much less touristy and crowded. Edzna is the closest major site, about 45 minutes to an hour away. The set of Maya ruins on the other side of Escárcega, including Becan, Calakmul, and several others, are some of the largest in the Maya lands, but are comparatively little developed and more distant and difficult to visit with Campeche as a base. You can get at least a sample many of them along or near the highway as stops on a drive between Campeche and Chetumal; make a full day of it starting at dawn. Serious ruin buffs can easily make a couple days of it; staying at one of the eco-lodges or small hotels near Xpujil or towards Calakmul will be a more pleasant stay than charmless Escárcega.
- Champotón is a small city down the coast; further on is Ciudad del Carmen.
- Yucatán is to the north, with the big city of Merida and other attractions.
- Quintana Roo with its beaches and ruins is to the east.