Fortrose and Rosemarkie are two small towns a mile apart on the Black Isle in Easter Ross in the Scottish Highlands. In 2020 Fortrose had a population of 1680 and Rosemarkie had 640. Between them, Chanonry Point projects into the Moray Firth, where dolphins are often seen. "Chanonry" refers to canons or priests, and there was a monastery hereabouts in the Pictish era.

Get in

Fortrose and Rosemarkie are on the A832 on the south shore of the Black Isle. From Inverness, take A9 north over Kessock Bridge (toll free) and turn right onto A832 at the Tore roundabout, allow about 40 min.

Stagecoach Highlands Bus 26 runs from Inverness via Munlochy and Avoch to Fortrose and Rosemarkie (30 min). They run hourly M-Sa 7AM-6PM, and most continue to Cromarty.

Get around

It's a 30 min walk between Fortrose, Rosemarkie and Chanonry Point.

Nigg - Cromarty Ferry sails across the mouth of Cromarty Firth Apr-Sep daily every 30 min. In 2022 fares are car + driver £9.50, foot passenger £4.50, and £1 per bicycle.

See

• 1 Fortrose Cathedral, 7 Cathedral Square, Fortrose IV10 8TB, ☏ +44 1667 460232. Daily Apr-Sep 9:30AM-5:30PM, Oct-Mar 10AM-4PM. Ruin of a red sandstone cathedral built around 1250 AD. Many medieval nobles are buried here but their plots are lost. After the Reformation it was stripped of anything of value (such as roof lead) and became tumbledown, though the church was used into the 18th century and the graveyard to the 19th. What is now a separate building east was the sacristry and chapter house, and became the tolbooth and town council offices until 1939. Free. (updated Aug 2022)
• 2 Groam House Museum, High St, Rosemarkie IV10 8UF, ☏ +44 1381 620961. Apr-Nov: daily 1-4PM. 18th century house converted into a museum for local Pictish stones - the best is the Rosemarkie Stone, found in the floor of the old church. Another fragment depicts someone squaring up to a lion's jaws: it's called the Daniel Stone as the scene is assumed to be Biblical, but it looks more like a circus act. There's also a display of the work of George Bain (1881-1968) who studied the styles of Pictish and early Christian art, such as the Book of Kells, and re-launched their use in modern design. Free. (updated Aug 2022)
• 3 Chanonry Point at the end of Ness Road has an automated lighthouse, picnic area and views across the Moray Firth. It's a good spot to see bottlenose dolphins, which line the strait on the incoming tide and wait for dinner to flow into their mouths. There's a monument to "Dark Kenneth" Mackenzie (Coinneach Odhar), the 17th-century Brahan Seer, who predicted the Battle of Culloden, Mrs Thatcher, the North Sea oil industry and much else. He failed to foresee his own horrible slaying in Dingwall, chiefly because he never existed. None of the accounts of his sayings and doings stand up, and the prophesies were all concocted with hindsight.

Chanonry Ness and Point

• Fort George is the impressive star fortress seen across the channel from Chanonry Point. The Hanoverians built several forts to ensure the Jacobites and scary Highlanders would never rebel again, and this is the one that succeeded. See Nairn for details.
• 4 Cromarty on the tip of Black Isle is a fishing village with well-preserved Georgian and Victorian architecture. A little ferry crosses the Firth to Nigg and can fit in a couple of cars.

Do

• Rosemarkie Beach is a two mile stretch of sand east side of the Ness from the village to the lighthouse. Multiple access points, there are toilets by Groam House Museum. Fortrose Beach west of the Ness is stony.
• 1 Dolphin Trips Avoch, Harbour Office Pierhead, Avoch IV9 8PT, ☏ +44 1381 622383. Small operator offering wildlife viewing trips on the Moray Firth, including otters, seals, porpoises and bottlenose dolphins. Trips are one hour and sailing times vary with weather, tides and demand. £25 pp. (updated Aug 2022)
• 2 Fortrose & Rosemarkie Golf Club, Ness Rd East, Fortrose IV10 8SE, ☏ +44 1381 620529. Founded in 1793, this links course stretches down the east side of the Ness. White tees 5893 yards, par 71. Visitor round £75. (updated Aug 2022)
• Fairy Glen is an RSPB reserve along the stream that flows out at Rosemarkie. Stroll the half-mile to the falls.
• 3 Learnie Red Rock Trails are a series of off-road bike trails along A832 towards Cromarty.

Buy

Fortrose Cathedral

• Co-op Food in Fortrose is open daily 7AM-10PM.
• Spar in Rosemarkie is open M-W F Sa 8AM-6PM, Th 8AM-2PM, Su 9:30AM-2PM.

Eat

• Tweedy Pie is a fast food place at 37 High St Fortrose, open daily 10AM-7PM.
• IV10 Cafe, 18 High St, Fortrose IV10 8SX (by cathedral), ☏ +44 1381 620690. W Th 10AM-10PM, F Sa 10AM-11PM. Great reviews for this deli eatery. (updated Aug 2022)
• 1 Crofters, 11 Marine Terrace, Rosemarkie IV10 8UL (corner with Hawkhill Rd), ☏ +44 1381 620844. Daily 10AM-8:30PM. Cafe-bistro near the beach with a good menu selection, licenced. (updated Aug 2022)
• 2 Rosemarkie Beach Cafe, Mill Rd, Rosemarkie IV10 8UW, ☏ +44 7923 402647. Apr-Oct: daily 11AM-4PM; Nov-Mar: Sa Su 11AM-4PM. Community-run cafe at the north end of the beach. Coffee, soup, burgers, home-baked goods and ice cream. (updated Aug 2022)

Drink

• Union Tavern at 29 High St Fortrose is open daily 10AM-11PM.
• Plough Inn at 48 High St Rosemarkie is open W Th Su 1-10PM, F Sa 1PM-midnight.
• Brewery: Cromarty Brewing Company are based at Davidston on A832 near Cromarty. No tours.

Sleep

The Anderson

• 1 The Anderson, Union St, Fortrose IV10 8TD (corner with High St), ☏ +44 1381 620236, info@theanderson.co.uk. Nine room hotel above a restaurant and bar, pet-friendly. It was built in the mid-1800s and retains much of its character. The single and double rooms include ensuite bathrooms and TVs, and have some antique decor. B&B double £105. (updated Aug 2022)
• 2 Fortrose Bay Campsite, Wester Greengates, Fortrose IV10 8RX, ☏ +44 1381 621927, fortrosebaycampsite@gmail.com. Clean friendly breezy campground open Apr-Oct, next to a pebble beach on the west side of Chanonry Ness. Tent £22, hook-up £26. (updated Aug 2022)
• 3 Fair Isle B&B, 17 Marine Terrace, Rosemarkie IV10 8UL, ☏ +44 1381 620884. Check-in: 5PM, check-out: 10AM. Comfy small B&B, no pets. B&B double £70. (updated Aug 2022)

Connect

As of Aug 2022, Fortrose, Rosemarkie and their approach roads have 4G from all UK carriers, but with many dead spots. 5G has not reached this area.

Go next

• Dingwall has a nature reserve with red kites. The Singleton Distillery is in nearby Muir of Ord. Dingwall has trains between Inverness, Thurso and Kyle of Lochalsh.
• Strathpeffer is a spa village with hiking and mountain biking trails.
• Inverness is the transport hub for the northern Highlands. North Coast 500 motoring itinerary starts and finishes here.