Lyttelton
Lyttelton is the seaport satellite town of Christchurch in New Zealand, lying just over the Port Hills from Christchurch.
Understand
Lyttelton provides a safe, sheltered deepwater harbour, as it lies in the caldera of an extinct volcano. The town's steep streets are a novelty for many Christchurch drivers, who rarely encounter a hill (unless they deliberately drive to the hill suburbs on the edge of the city).
Lyttelton was established as a seaport in the late 1840s. The early settlers had to walk over the Bridle Path - so named because the path was so steep that horses had to be led by the bridle as they could not be ridden. In the early years, Lyttelton provided a trans-shipment point for cargo bound for Christchurch. Passengers and light cargo would travel over the Bridle Path on foot or horseback. Heavier cargo was shipped in shallow draught coastal vessels back around the coast, across the treacherous Sumner bar and into the estuary to Ferrymead or, later, Steam Wharf, just down the Heathcote River from where the Tunnel Road meets Ferry Road.
New Zealand's first public railway was built to link Christchurch and Lyttelton, opening from Christchurch to Ferrymead in 1863 and then to Lyttelton once the 2.6-km Lyttelton Rail Tunnel was completed in 1867. In 1964, the rail tunnel was supplemented by the 2.0-km Lyttelton Road Tunnel. Between 1895 and 1976, steam ferries operated an overnight service between Lyttelton and Wellington, linking New Zealand's two main islands.
Lyttelton was extensively damaged in the 2010 and 2011 Christchurch earthquakes. Several historic buildings were damaged beyond repair including the famous Timeball Station, which was rebuilt in 2018.
Get in
By car
There are three ways by car from Christchurch into Lyttelton:
- Through SH 74/Tunnel Rd (sometimes called Tunnel Rd Mwy). The tunnel is probably the best bet if you're unfamiliar with driving on the left and squeamish about steep twisty turns on hills. Although New Zealand roads are pretty good and you do get a great view going over the hills.
- Over the Port Hills along Dyers Pass Road (past the Sign of the Takahe)
- Via Gebbies Pass, though this is a rather indirect route and is probably only a practical alternative if southwest of Christchurch.
- Over the Port Hills along Evans Pass Road and down the newly reopened Sumner Road.
By bus
Take the number 28 bus from the Bus Exchange to Rapaki/Lyttelton.
By foot
Walk the Bridal Path from Heathcote.
By boat
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If you are arriving by small boat, it pays to be aware of the information on the Approach and Navigation section of the World Cruising and Sailing Wiki.
Get around
The town of Lyttelton is very small but very hilly. The streets usually have a nice European charm to it, but it also means that driving will be unpleasant (as it was intended). The best way to get around the town is entirely on foot, even if you have a car, unless you are leaving the town proper.
There are buses that run within the town, but the distances are too short to justify realistically waiting.
See
- 1 Godley Head (Awaroa). WWII coastal defence site, lighthouse and a 3 hour walking track.
- 2 Ripapa Island. An old WWI-era military base, now an occasional tourist curio.
- 3 Timeball Station. Originally opened in 1876, it provided a reliable time signal "to set your watch by", as the ball was dropped daily at 1PM. The station was destroyed in the 2011 earthquake and the tower alone was rebuilt in 2017-18.
Do
- 1 Swim at Corsair Bay. A sandy beach at the bottom of a steep sided cove, one bay west from the port and town.
- Sail. on Lyttelton Harbour
Buy
- Lyttelton Farmers Market is an authentic farmers market in the School grounds every Saturday morning, 10AM - 1PM. Not necessarily the cheapest food in town, but always fresh, local, and seasonal. Food available ranges from fruit & veggies to bread, coffee, home-baking, farm eggs, local honey and cheeses, preserves and relishes, etc etc. There is usually some live music and always a lively collection of marketgoers, great people-watching.
Eat
Drink
- 1 , 16 London St, ☏ +64 3 328 7206, louis@civilandnaval.co.nz. Bar with an excellent selection of beers including a range of local and overseas artisan and craft beers. Some tapas food available.
- 2 Wunderbar, 19 London St, ☏ +64 3 328 8818. Cafe/bar that hosts offbeat live performances such as poetry reading. Some week nights there is a band or DJ.