Jaibalito
Jaibalito is a small village on the shores of Lake Atitlán in Guatemala. Jaibalito is locally governed under the municipality of Santa Cruz la Laguna.
Understand
Jaibalito is the smallest and most remote of the various settlements on the shores of Lake Atitlan, connected only via footpaths to the villages either side of Tzununa and Santa Cruz La Laguna and by boat.
Unlike most of the other villages around the lake, Jaibalito is unusual in that the expat community lives among the Mayan community, due to the small size of the place.
Talk
Among the indigenous population, the primary spoken language is Kaqchikel and this is spoken exclusively by them among each other. The majority also speak Spanish, which is used when communicating with non-Kaqchikel speakers. Other than members of the expat community, there are very few residents who speak English.
Get in
It is limited to footpaths or public lanchas which operate the route between Panajachel and San Pedro la Laguna. The Jaibalito dock sits between Tzunana to the west and Santa Cruz La Laguna to the east.
The public dock has a covered waiting area.
Get around
The village is relatively small. There are tuk-tuks (3-wheeled motorized taxis) that typically await passengers as they disembark incoming lanchas at the public dock. Although unnecessary from a distance perspective, they are useful if you have baggage. The tuk-tuks are able to traverse the narrow paved "roads" within the village. An alternative to the tuk-tuks if you have baggage are the young boys who greet incoming lanchas at the public dock. These boys will offer their services to you to carry your bag(s) anywhere in the village for a small fee. These boys can also get to properties that the tuk-tuks are unable to drive to. These boys are hardworking and totally honest, and supporting them in this way is a highly-beneficial way of improving their families livelihoods.
Do
Jaibalito has one of the best lake locations for views and overall tranquility. Swimming and cliff jumping are popular. Canoes and paddle boards are available for rent from Casa del Mundo. There are some lanchas based in Jaibalito, so it's easy to negotiate a fee to do a private tour anywhere on the lake, or a private ride to any of the other villages. There's an attractive and relatively-safe trail that connects Jaibalito to its neighboring villages, either side, of Santa Cruz la Laguna and Tzununa. There are other more remote trails that head uphill from the village and it's recommended that you have a local guide take you, more from a not-getting-lost perspective. One particularly short but enjoyable hike is up to the white cross (La Cruz de Jaibalito) that sits up overlooking the village. Its location is marked on Google Maps and the view from the cross is fantastic.
Lastly, just relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. Unlike the larger lake towns, there is no nightlife as such, so if partying is your thing, then Jaibalito is not the right overnight spot for you.
Work
Jaibalito has little in the way of employment opportunities for its indigenous population, other than occasional construction projects and a fortunate few who work in the village at the hotels/restaurants, as well as caretakers/housekeepers in the few expat homes. It's understandable, therefore, that Jaibalito suffers from higher levels of poverty than their counterparts in other Atitlan villages. www.amigosdejaibalito.org is a Foundation that was established to assist the community of Jaibalito by meeting the needs of the individual residents and the particularly its children through programs that benefit the local school.
Buy
Superb locally sourced coffee is available by the bag at Posada Jaibalito, which has its own roasting facility. There are always a few bags ready for sale at the kitchen, but if you want to buy in bulk, then speak with Hans. He will need a few hours, or best overnight, to prepare your consignment.
There is a wooden structure on your right as you walk up from the public dock, named Artisans of Jaibalito. This store was an initiative of Amigos de Jaibalito and is staffed by indigenous females who sell Kaqchikel-inspired items, such as ladies purses and bags. Opening times can be a little unpredictable but if you ask any of the local ladies, the place will quickly open.
- 1 Mercado Jaibalito, Jaibalito. 8am to 4pm Daily. Well stocked grocery store in the center of the village. It is owned and operated by the nearby Posada Jaibalito. Items for sale include granola, milk, yogurt, various fruits and vegetables, beer, wine, chocolate, honey, coffee, etc.
Eat
There are several dining choices in the village. At the front of the village as you exit the public dock is the palapa-covered El Indigo Bistro. El Indigo is operated by long-time resident Nadre, who provides excellent food and drinks with spectacular views of the lake. Heading up the main road from the public dock on the right hand side is Art and Coffee, which operates a restaurant. There's the Posada Jaibalito, which is more-or-less the main gathering place for both the expat community as well as most backpackers, and is owned and operated by Hans, a very long-term resident. One the corner of the main intersection is Tres Tenedores, which is cheffed by a graduate of the local culinary school (CECAP) in nearby Santa Cruz. Further uphill in the village (ask anyone for directions) is Cafe El Escondido, which is the only eatery totally owned and operated by indigenous locals. Impossible to miss as you arrive by lancha, is the large cliffside La Casa del Mundo. This is a full service hotel and restaurant. Also, on most evenings, a fry station operates that offers good fried chicken and french fries.
Drink
Alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks can be purchased at any of the above restaurants. There are also several tiendas (small shops) throughout the village that sell bottled/canned drinks.
Sleep
There are several AirBnB opportunities within Jaibalito that mostly consist of the expat community renting out rooms and whole houses.
- 1 Posada Jaibalito (center of the village where the main two paved walkways intersect), ☏ +502 3112 7226. Offers a dorm and private rooms. Booking in advance is difficult due to communication limitations, so most people tend to get a place to stay simply by turning up.
- 2 [formerly dead link] La Casa del Mundo, Jaibalito, ☏ +502 5218-5332, casamundo@gmail.com. has nice views and has its own private dock, which you should use if staying there. Otherwise, you have a 5-10 minute walk with your luggage if you use the public dock. Tuk-tuks cannot reach Casa del Mundo from the public dock.
Connect
Wi-Fi is available for customers at all of the restaurants mentioned above, with the exception of El Escondido.
Power and internet outages are frequent.
The Posada Jaibalito, plus a couple of the local tiendas, sell credit for the major phone networks.