Tlayacapan
Tlayacapan is a town in the Central Mexico state of Morelos. The town is one of the most scenic and culturally rich in the region and is designated as one of Mexico's Pueblos Magicos. It is known for its 16th century monastery and many chapels, and is included as part of the "16th century monasteries on the slopes of Popocatapetl", a 
UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is an easy weekend getaway for people in the Mexico City area (though weekend crowds are significantly less than towns closer to the capital).
Understand
Tlayacapan is a small town with a population of about 7,000.
History
Long before the arrival of Spaniards in Mexico, Tlayacapan was an Olmec settlement that was part of the Aztec trading network, a stop over on the way to more southern settlements.
Earthquakes
Earthquakes are a common phenomenon in Central Mexico, which is geologically active. On September 19, 2017, a 7.2 magnitude earthquake shook Tlayacapan, damaging many buildings, including the historic Monastery of San Juan Bautista, and the Palacio Municipal (the oldest city hall in Mexico). The historic church remains closed to the public until restorations can be completed and public safety ensured. Damage to the church includes a fallen ceiling and a major crack that splits the building's facade.
Get in
From Mexico City's Taxqueña bus terminal (south), TER buses (Transportes Estrella Roja) leave hourly for the 2-1/2 hour trip to Tlayacapan and cost M$100 (February 2023).
From Cuernavaca, TER buses leave every 30-40 minutes for the 2 hour trip to Tlayacapan. Tickets cost M$80 (February 2023).
Get around
Tlayacapan is a compact small town. Walking is the best way to get around. Taxis are readily available if you want to go further afield.
See
- Ex-convento San Juan Baustista - this imposing church is one of the 16th century monasteries on the slopes of Popocatapetl, which are designated as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. The monastery complex was built by the Augustinian order between 1534 and 1574. It included the main church, courtyards, cloister, prayer rooms, a dining hall, and rooms where the monks slept. Only the main church was maintained and actively used for religious celebrations. It incorporates architectural elements from a number of different styles. The monastery is noted for its frescoes and oil paintings in the entrance hall and meditation hall.
- 16th century chapels - While the Augustinians were building their monastery, they were also embarking on a mission of evangelizing the native indigenous populations, and they would seek out the native temples, knock them down, and build Christian temples on their sites. There were originally 26 of these chapels in Tlayacapan, but 18 remain and have been restored and maintained. There were 3 classes of chapels, with the main chapels generally being elaborately decorated and serving a wide community, while other chapels served local neighborhoods or clusters of families and were more humble structures. The four main chapels are Capilla El Rosario, Capilla Santa Ana, Capilla de la Exaltación, and Capilla Señor Santiago
- La Cerería Museum and Cultural Center (Candle Factory) - is a 16th century building where candles were once made and sold. The building is noted for its colonial architecture and its colorful early 20th century history as military headquarters for the revolutionary forces under Emiliano Zapata. Today, the building is a museum that showcases artifacts and dioramas depicting the region's past and its culture, including arts, and the story behind Chinelos.
Do
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Chinelos
The Mexican tradition of chinelos is a fun spirited mockery of high class and authority. It originated in the town of Tlayacapan in the mid-19th century and subsequently became popular throughout the state of Morelos and into parts of Mexico City. Historically, the indigenous or mixed classes who worked as laborers on the sugar plantations would let off steam during carnival. They created colorful masks and costumes to dress as caricatures of the European upper classes. Chinelos have a distinctive dance that they typically perform during carnival (and do a few steps of during parades). |
- Rejuvenate your body in a temazcal. The temazcal is a pre-hispanic ritualistic steam bath that purifies the body with scented steam and opens the pores. The steam bath includes aromatic and medicinal herbs and is a great way to cap off a busy day, relaxing in the warm vapors before dinner. There are several temazcales in town, some part of a spa hotel. Most require a group size of 5 or 6 people and require reservations at least a week in advance. Some places offering temazcal include Centro Callicuahtli and Bio Calli. A temazcal typically costs M$400 to M$500 per person.
- Carnival is a huge celebration in Tlayacapan, which is home to the dance of chinelos. Chinelos is a tradition throughout the state of Morelos, but it's here in Tlayacapan where the tradition originated.
- Feast of San Juan Bautista - June 24 is the feast day for Tlayacapan's patron saint. Festivities take place throughout town and include chinelos.
Buy
A variety of local artesania shops can be found on Calle Emilio Carranza and in the Plaza del Alfarero where a craft market is set up on Saturdays and Sundays.
Eat
- 1 Casa Grande Tlayacapan, Benito Juárez 8, Centro, ☏ +527351081089. 10ː00 - 19ː00. Beautiful historic hacienda restaurant across the street from the Monastery of St. John the Baptist. Outdoor patio dining in the garden courtyard with umbrellas and live music. Traditional Mexican cuisine with regional specialties like esquites con huitlacoche. If you're a bold epicure, order the chapulines flameado en mescal (grasshoppers in mescal, flambe).
- 2 El Mirador, 5 de Mayo 14, Centro, ☏ +527352436394. 09ː00 - 19ː00. Traditional Mexican food with a nice 2nd floor terrace dining area. Omelletes, chilaquiles, hot cakes for breakfast, fish, chicken, ribs, and several kinds of spaghetti.
- 3 La Malinche, Benito Juarez 6, Centro. 10ː00 - 21ː00. Traditional Mexican food in a clean, inviting location. Tortilla soup, large margaritas.
- 4 Yoshi Roll Fusion, Emiliano Carranza 35. 12ː00 - 20ː00 closed Monday. Modern sushi restaurant.
- 5 Pozoleria Dona China, Cuahtemoc at Ninos Heroes, ☏ +527351724342. 09ː00 - 22ː00 Saturday and Sunday only. Pozole or Chinese food? This places serves both.
Drink
- 1 Pulques Teuhtli, Corner of Emiliano Carranza and Leandro Valle. 10ː00 - 20ː00 Saturday and Sunday only. Very traditional style pulqueria with a variety of very modern flavors. Try the capuccino pulque.
- 2 Pulques Xolotl, Guadalupe Victoria 1-12, Exaltacion, ☏ +525611492223. 10ː00 - 20ː00 weekdays, 08ː00 - 22ː00 saturday and sunday, closed Monday. Natural and cured pulques at the bar, serves foodː cecina, cochinita, etc.
- 3 Terraza Tulum, Cuahutemoc 21, Barrio del Rosario, ☏ +527353740613. 2nd floor terrace bar. Beer, micheladas, mixed drinks.
Sleep
- 1 Posada San Juan, Cinco de Mayo 18, ☏ +527353576481. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Attractive, centrally located budget hotel. Small rooms, off-street parking. No pets. M$700.
- 2 Posada la Joya, Plaza Constitucion 3, ☏ +527353237650. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Clean, comfortable, affordable rooms on the main plaza in the center of town. M$700.
- 3 Posada San Nicolas, Esq. Insurgentes y Otilio Montano, ☏ +527772336964. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Small family run inn. Pleasant courtyard with pool. Noisy area.
- 4 Hotel Boutique Jardin de Flores, C. Independencia 75, El Rosario, ☏ +527352171018. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Small, intimate inn with 4 rooms. Rooms are large and well appointed. Terrace with mountain views. Some rooms have fireplaces. Safe area on the edge of Tlayacapan, friendly service. M$1500.
- 5 Posada Meztli Xictli, Benito Juárez 63, Barrio de Texcalpan, ☏ +527352120323. Check-in: 13ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Small, intimate hotel with 6 rooms. Rooms are sparse and comfortably well-kept. Off-street parking. Swimming pool available.
- 6 Spa Holístico Casa Tonantzin, C. Independencia 60, El Rosario, ☏ +527351001711. Check-in: 07ː00, check-out: 14ː00. Rustic, gay friendly hotel with outdoor swimming pool and views of the mountains.