Coatzacoalcos
Coatzacoalcos is an industrial port city at the southern tip of the state of Veracruz. It has limited appeal to tourists, but serves as a transportation hub between the main body of Mexico, the Yucatan peninsula, and Central America.
Understand
History
In the pre-Hispanic era, Coatzacoalcos was Olmec territory, though by the time the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century, the region was dominated by the Aztec. The Spanish settled the area in 1522 under the leadership of Gustavo Sandoval. The town's importance as a regional port grew steadily over the next four centuries. In the 1970s petroleum shipping became an important part of the port business, connecting to the oil fields of Campeche. Four major petrochemical facilities are in Coatzacoalcos.
The city is an important connection point between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, though less commonly used than the Panama Canal. Freight can be unloaded from Atlantic freighters in Coatzacoalcos, shipped by trains across the isthmus to Salina Cruz, and then re-loaded onto ships crossing the Pacific. Going the other way, trains arriving in Coatzacoalcos can be driven onto rail ferries and shipped across the Gulf of Mexico to ports in the southern United States. The railroad across the Tehuantepec isthmus was built in 1907, but after the Panama Canal opened just 7 years later, traffic declined. During the presidency of Andres Lopez Obrador (AMLO), the Mexican government embarked on an ambitious project to dramatically upgrade the infrastructure between Coatzalcocos and Salina Cruz with new bridges, tunnels, improvements to the railway and the addition of a passenger rail line. The upgraded freight lines began operating in September 2023 and the passenger line in December 2023. The railroad was also extended south to Palenque where passengers can connect to the Tren Maya intercity railroad across the Yucatan Peninsula. The government is promoting the Corridor Interoceanico Isthmus Tehuantepec (CIIT) as a potentially faster and cheaper way than the Panama Canal to move goods across the American continent.
The area is also the historic home of the Olmec people. One of the oldest mesoamerican archaeological sites is El Mantial, a sacrificial bog in the Laguna Mantial where a number of relics dating from 1650 BC were discovered.
Get in
By plane
Coatzalcocos has twice-daily flights on Aeromexico to and from Mexico City.
By bus
There are intercity buses from most major cities in central and southern Mexico as well as international services from Guatemala. ADO is the main operator.
- 2 Coatzalcocos bus station (Central de Autobuses de Coatzacoalcos), Villas del Sur. Spacious, clean waiting area with shops and fast food outlets.
By train
After a 30-year hiatus, intercity trains once again serves Coatzacoalcos as of late 2023. The daily Tren Interoceanico service runs to and from Salina Cruz, on the southern side of the Tehuantepec isthmus. In December 2023, passenger services began between Coatzacoalcos and Palenque, where passengers can connect onwards throughout the Yucatan Peninsula via the Tren Maya.
- 3 Coatzacoalcos railway station (Estación de Coatzacoalcos), Agustin Lira Km 5.
Get around
Taxis are plentiful and affordable. Uber works as well.
See
- Coastal Malecon - walk along a seawall fronting the Gulf of Mexico. The views at sunrise and sunset are the best in the city.
- Olmec Archaeological Museum, John Sparks s/n (on the Coastal Malecon), 10ː00-18ː00 Tuesday through Sunday, closed Monday, M$10. Impressive pyramid structure houses an interesting collection of more than 1,000 artifacts from the Olmec civilization that inhabited the southern Gulf coast of Mexico over 1,000 years ago.
- Jaguaroundi Ecological Park, Camino al Ejido Cangrejera 1, Coazacoalcos, Phoneː +52 921-276-9582, free admission, 09ː00-17ː00 Tuesday through Sunday (closed Monday) - environmental reserve housing hundreds of birds and more than 65 mammal species.
Do
Buy
- 1 Mercado Coatzacoalcos (Mercado Popular Morelos), Av Benito Juárez 106, Centro. Daily 07:00 - 18:30. The city's main traditional marketplace is an explosion of the senses, full of people bargaining for fresh produce, just-caught seafood, butcher shops, bakeries, and of course, aisles of local women serving up the most authentic regional dishes in town. There are also vendors selling housewares, clothing, and artesanias. Many locals come for breakfast or lunch.
Eat
- 1 El Brasero, Av. Francisco Sarabia 428, Frutos de la Revolucion, ☏ +52 9212142575. 09ː00 - 21ː00. Barbecue rotisserie chickens and grilled ribs, steak and other meats.
- 2 La Picadita Jarocha, Malecón 2407, ☏ +52 9212137072. 08ː00 - 22ː00 (closed Wednesday). Long time "go to" seafood restaurant with ocean views. Regional Veracruzano (Jarocho) seafood dishes at very reasonable prices. Colorful, inviting atmosphere, kid friendly, live music, off-street parking.
- 3 Enchiladas el Yaqui, Av 18 de Marzo 1807, Puerto Mexico, ☏ +52 9211443741. 09ː00 - 17ː00 (closed Monday). Popular enchilada house with very good, regional style enchiladas and sauces. The pipian salsa is a favorite. Several combo packages (paquetes) can simplify ordering. No credit cards (cash only).
Drink
Sleep
- 1 Los Andes, Av. Transístmica km. 7.5, Tierra Nueva, ☏ +52 9212157496. Check-in: 13ː00, check-out: 14ː00. Unpretentious budget hotel on the main road, 2 blocks from ADO bus station. M$700 (Feb 2023).
- 2 Hotel Terranova, Boulevard Rio Calzadas 5, ☏ +52 9212117700. Check-in: 14ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Upscale hotel, modern, clean, and comfortable with riverfront location. M$1000.
- 3 Hotel Terraza del Sol, Malecon Costero 1201, Centro, ☏ +52 9212140125. Small, moderate beachfront hotel with low rates. M$700 (Feb 2023).
- 4 One Coatzacoalcos Forum, Av. Universidad Veracruzana km. 8, El Tesoro, ☏ +52 921 800 9000. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern budget hotel with modern amenities. Rooms are very small and furnishings on the basic end, but it's clean, safe, and cheap. M$1000.
- 5 Hotel Quitzacoatl, Tabasco 904 B, Petrolera, ☏ +52 921 217 5583. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Small traditional, family-owned hotel in a quiet residential area. Rooms are spacious and clean. Pleasant garden area with tropical plants and a parrot to keep you company. Excellent choice for the independent budget traveler. M$550.