Ouagadougou
Ouagadougou (pronounced: WA-ga-DOO-goo) is the capital of Burkina Faso and the nation's cultural and economic centre. Its name is informally shortened to Ouaga.
Understand
The dominant ethnicity is Mossi (60%), but many other tribes are also represented (Samo, Gourounsi, Lobi, etc).
Languages spoken: French, Moore, some Jula (derivative of Bambara).
The primary language spoken by the general population is Moore. However, many merchants, shopkeepers, taxi drivers, and restaurant and hotel staff will speak at least some French. In the nicer parts of town, most people speak excellent French. Some people speak English.
Climate
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Its climate is classified as hot semi-arid (BSh) with the rainy season from June to September. Daytime temperatures are hot all the year, but are hottest from February to May.
Get in
By plane
Ouagadougou International Airport is the main gateway and is located to the immediate south of city centre, distance from the airport to the United Nations roundabout is less than two kilometres. The airport is quite small and, like many African airports, somewhat disorganized. National carrier Air Burkina has flights most West African capitals as well as Paris, from where Air France also offers daily service. The other European capital with scheduled flights is Brussels via Brussels Airlines. Other popular connections includes East African cities of Nairobi and Addis Ababa. Some of the best fares from Europe seem to be with Turkish Airlines.
A shared taxi, the green ones, to city centre should cost no more than XOF500, but be aware that many will ask for up to CFA 1,000.
By train
A twice weekly train operated by SITARAIL runs from the Ivorian capital Abidjan via Bobo-Dioulasso. First and second class carriages are available, the journey is supposed to take 36 hours but trains are often much delayed. Tickets are open for purchase a day before departure at the train station.
- 1 Ouagadougou Central railway station (Gare Centrale de Ouagadougou) (in the central district, just north of Avenue de la Nation).
By car
By bus
There are plenty of bus operators serving Ouagadougou but there's no central bus station, each operator has its own depot.
Transport Confort Voyageurs[dead link], on Rue de la Mosquée is one of the largest bus companies in town with connections from most regional cities as well as the neighbouring capitals. Other operators includes STMB [dead link] and SOTRAO.
Get around
Ougadougou is a very orderly and clean city, and the traffic is very civilized. The city has a grid-based street system. There are traffic lights everywhere and motorists actually obey them. The people here are proud of their country and create a good impression.
By taxi
Ouagadougou is serviced by two types of taxi: white and green. White taxis are rarer, more expensive, and exclusive. Green taxis are ubiquitous and of much lower quality, but are much cheaper to use. As there are no meters, all fees for all taxis are negotiated in advance, and you should not enter a taxi until you and the driver have agreed upon a price.
The small green taxi cabs should cost no more than CFA 300 per person during the day for straight runs on main roads. Fees increase with distance or with departures from the main routes. Be prepared to share the cab with as many people as can be crammed in, or to pay a premium rate. Cabbies may attempt to charge foreigners far more. If you have a lot of baggage, expect to pay more as well.
Prices go up at night especially to the city center (centreville). You should never pay more than CFA 1,500 per person, and this is negotiable if you have a lot of people in your group to share the cab.
Travel to and from the airport is always expensive, even if you are only going a short distance. Expect a minimum of CFA 1,500, and do not be surprised at asking prices in excess of CFA 5,000. Be firm, and you can negotiate the price considerably downward.
Although Ouagadougou is generally a very safe city, maintain the same caution that you would in any urban environment: only use green or white cabs, don't accept rides from drivers that appear to be drunk or who have cars that appear unsafe, and know that whites, obvious tourists, people with many bags, and people seeking rides at unusual hours are all at a higher risk of theft and other crimes.
See
- 1 Grand Mosque of Ouagadougou.
- 2 Ouagadougou Cathedral. Built by the French in the 1930s, it is one of the largest in western Africa. The architecture is reminiscent of a European romanesque basilica, but intentionally evokes the impression of incompleteness due to its two steeples of different height.
- 3 National Museum (Musee National), Avenue du Musée national. Museum complex devoted to the many local cultures, but most of the buildings are empty. It is on the east end of the city and is open seven days a week.
- 4 Museum of Music (Musée de la Musique de Ouagadougou). Exhibits all the musical instruments of Burkina Faso.
- 5 Bangr Weogo park. Urban park in Zone du Bois (also called 'La Foret') has many trails for walking and running. It also has a small zoo inside (CFA 100-200 for entrance) Bring binoculars to help you spot the crocodiles in the marsh near the bridge! The park is a natural preservation area and "sacred forest" dating from the pre-colonial era.
- L'Unité Pédagogique. Another notable park in Ouagadougou, shelters animals in a semi-free state. This botanic garden/biosphere system stretches over 8 hectares (20 acres) and also serves as a museum for the country's history.
- Garden of Ouaga-Loudun Friendship (Jardin de l'amitié Ouaga-Loudun). Green space that was renovated in 1996, is a symbol of the twin-city relationship between Ouagadougou and Loudun in France. It is situated in the centre of the city, near the "Nation Unies' crossroads".
- 6 Naba Koom (In front of the railway station). Small garden with a statue depicting a woman handling a calabash to pour water. The 6-m (20-ft) high statue faces the railway station, welcoming travellers into Ouaga. The place bears the name of an important chief in Burkina Faso’s history.
- La Place du Grand Lyon. Monument that reflects the relationship between Burkina Faso's capital and Lyon in France. Located near the French cultural Center George Melies and features
Outside city centre
- Musée de Manega. Also exhibits musical instruments of Burkina Faso, Mossi rifles and other cultural items. Located 55 km (34 mi) northwest of the city
- 7 Laongo (30km (19 mi) east of the city,). Features enormous granite slabs that were designed by various sculptors. The exhibit displays works of art from five continents.
Do
- Cineburkina (50 32 03 28) and Cine Reale are more comfortable/safer movie theaters
- Café Zaka has live bands every night
- The Moro Naaba ceremony is every Friday morning at 07:15, 15-min ceremony symbolizing a Mossi historical event (preparation for battle against a rival king that stole his amulets, but being persuaded to keep peace). Ouagadougou was founded in the 15th century and became the capital of the Mossi empire. The historical palace of the Moro Naaba is located in the middle of the city.
- French Cultural Centre, Proposes both local and imported concerts dance pieces and theatre. The bar/restaurant there is a popular meeting spot. It also features an air-conditioned library where you can read newspapers and magazines. Located on the same road as the main post office
- SIAO (International Art and Craft Festival) Africa's most prominent craft fair, it is held for 10 days in every even-numbered year. Artisans from all over Africa attend and sell their wares.
- Village Artisanal of Ouagadougou (VAO). This outdoor "shopping mall" of local arts and crafts is a gem. You can buy there from a huge selection with far less hassle than on the street. It also features a shady café in the courtyard.
- FESPACO (Festival panafricain du cinéma et de la télévision de Ouagadougou ). The Panafrican Film and Television Festival celebrates films by African filmmakers and chiefly produced in Africa. FESPACO is scheduled in March every second year (odd-numbered years).
- Central Market a major attraction, burned in 2003 and reconstructed in a modern style. New stands are opening up all around it, though, so it's still worth a visit, especially if you are buying textiles.
- Gounghin Market a fun place to explore, buy fabric and fruit
Buy
Groceries:
- Go to Marina Market (50 31 09 65) or Scimas downtown, near the grande mosque (same street, maybe three blocks apart) for all cheese, meat, ice cream, other needs (closed from 12:00 to 15:00).
Bookstores:
Tailors:
- Anna's Fashion near Paradisio and Petrofa station
Film developing:
Lotte Photo across from Scimas takes a bit longer, but also does a good enough job.
Money:
- ATMs for Visa cards are available. Ecobank ATMs take master card/visa cards.
- Banque Atlantique has an ATM linked to the Maestro/Mastercard network but its ATMs only take cards issued by the bank.
Eat
Most larger cafés have food in the afternoons and evenings, but here are a few notables from the recommendations of Bobo Stage Goers and others:
African
- Gondwana (somewhat expensive, Zone du Bois, great atmosphere)
- La NASA - Vegan, cheap, near Pharmacie Sacré-Coeur
- La Colombe - Vegan, cheap, serves excellent tofu brochettes for XOF1,200. Logements, avenue Babanguida, porte n°974 - just before the Rond-point des Artistes and in front of the Stade de France (+226 60 36 24 70 / 78 62 77 12)
Italian
- 1 Le Verdoyant, Avenue Dimdolossom, ☏ +226 50 31 54 07. Somewhat expensive, near the Place de Nations Unites, serves excellent Lasagne, beware purse-snatchers and swindlers around the exit
- La Paillote (somewhat expensive, great pizza, delivers 50 31 87 34)
- The Belvedere (somewhat expensive, amazing pizza, Koulouba) 50 33 64 21
Middle Eastern
- Chez Simon (cheaper, Kwame N Krumah, near Jimmy's 50 33 21 46). Also International food - burgers, pizza etc.
- Veranda Lebanese and international. Opposite Chez Simon on Kwame N Krumah.
Chinese
- Restaurant du Chine (somewhat expensive, downtown)
American
- ISO (cheaper, delivers 50 36 21 67)
- Showbiz (across the street from Hotel Splendid- great milkshakes)
- American Rec Center at the US embassy
French
- 2 Le Coq Bleu, Avenue Kwame NKrumah, ☏ +226 50 30 01 93. Expensive
- 3 Le Vert Galant (In Ouaga 2000), ☏ +226 50 37 43 08. Expensive
- 4 l'Eau Vive, Rue Du Nasser, ☏ +226 50 30 63 03. Somewhat expensive, run by Catholic nuns
Street food and snacks
All usually about CFA 250 per plate on the street, depending on quantity or if there is meat: Rice and Beans (Benga), Rice and Sauce (Riz Sauce), To and sauce, Atteike, Spaghetti, Rice and tomato sauce (Riz Gras), Snacks- Peanuts and dates everywhere, semi-easy to find dried mangoes.
Drink
There are many bars.
- Bar DeNiro (run down, bad hygienic conditions, therefore not popular any more, more expensive, pool tables)
- Citadelle KH +226 61 05 32 22, restaurant with wine.
Sleep
Budget
- 1 Cailcedrat (near the Institut Africain de Management (African Institute of Management) in the Ouaga 2000 neighbourhood), ☏ +226 25375569, contact@residencelecailcedrat.net. Guesthouse offering accommodation to individuals or groups. Cailcedrat has 10 pleasant bedrooms with standard amenities (single and double bedrooms with air-con/fan, TV, fridge and bathrooms). Free breakfast and internet service. CCTV and security men. Bicycles and cars available for rent. Airport pick up. €21-37.
- 2 Benoua Lodge Hotel a Ouagadougou, Zogona Sector 13 (in the neighborhood east of the Univ of Ouagadougou), ☏ +226 64 77 20 20. Quaint hotel/hostel with private rooms that have air-con, wifi, shower, sat TV, plus a garden-like restaurant and security on premises. CFA 35000.
- 3 Villa Yiri Suma, 428 Avenue Maurice Yameogo, Koulouba. Rooms built around a pretty lush inner courtyard with lots of artworks displayed. Wifi, air-con, bar, restaurant. A recreational centre with pool and tennis is behind the property, and it is in a central location. CFA 22160.
- Pavillon Vert, Ave De La Liberte quartier Dapoya, next to Point Afrique office. Has a garden and Wi-Fi, good place to meet backpackers.
- Hotel Zamdogo, Zogona (50 30 10 69)
- Hotel Continental across from CineBurkina (50 30 43 60)
- SIL near Gare de l'Est on the Route de Fada, no drinking or smoking allowed in compound (50 36 48 51)
- CACS(Centre d'Acceuil et...): On the route de Fada.
- Pension Sarah Located in Cite An II, good place to meet foreigners.
Mid-range
- 4 Splendid Hôtel, Avenue Kwame Nkrumah, ☏ +226 25 31 72 78.
- 5 Hotel Yibi, Avenue Kwame Nkrumah (Opposite Hotel Splendid). A good budget option. Rooms have air-con, Wi-Fi and TV. Nice cool pool and bar/restaurant.
- 6 Sopatel Silmandé Hotel, Route de Kaya BP 4733 (Zone du Bois, near the barrage), ☏ +226 50 35 60 05.
- 7 Hotel Palm Beach, 10 Avenue Kwame Nkrumah, ☏ +226 50310991.
- 8 Hotel Ricardo, Rue 23.02 (Near the barrage), ☏ +226 50311717.
- 9 Sonia Hotels Ouagadougou, Secteur 6, Rue Mogho Naaba Kiba, Kamsonghin, ☏ +226 25334022. This is like a modern highrise rising up above the shanties. Restaurant, lounge, sparkling pool and patio, plus gym, spa, a/c, and wifi. Next to the airport. A classy place. ~CFA 65000.
- 10 Princess Yenega, Avenue de la grande Chancellerie, Koulouba (couple blocks east of the music museum), ☏ +226 70216315. Hotel with Burkinese-style architecture and garden, named after the legendary goddess of the Mossi people. Pool and restaurant and bar. Nice downtown location. Kind of high priced though.
Splurge
- 11 Bravia Hotel Ouagadougou, Sector 4, District ZACA, ☏ +226 25333271. Pool, hot tub, gym, restaurant, bar, wifi, a/c. Multi-story property that is ridiculously priced, but you can look over the squalor beneath you. ~CFA 105815.
Connect
Post Office:
- Grande Post (Sonapost) downtown, right on the Place des Nations Unies (M-F 08:00-12:00, 15:00-17:00; Sa 08:00-12:00. No cash withdrawals on Saturdays). Other post offices seem to follow the Monday-Friday schedules, but possibly closed on Saturdays. (If you don't have a box, there is a man who packages things to be shipped for XOF500-1000. Coming in the entrance, ask at the desk on the right.) There are also post offices in Dassasgho at the corner of Charles de Gaulle and the Circulaire, and on Charles de Gaulle near the intersection with Babanguida, just down from Surface Alimentation.
Internet
- Dependable connections next to the grand post (across the street from the Verdoyant) and diagonal from Café Zaka (next to the fish market).
- Hole in the wall places everywhere, just ask. CFA 500-1,000/hr.
Stay safe
Loads of touts, purse snatchers and faux types at the Grand Marche. Don't go without local assistance.
If you are a foreign woman, don't tell anyone (except trusted friends) where you are staying unless you want everyone you meet to show up at your hotel or home.
When travelling, take the STMB buses: they drive slowly, but safely. SOGEBAF has the most crashes.
Cope
Embassies
Canada, 316 Professeur Joseph KIZERBO ave., ☏ +226 5031 1894, fax: +226 5031 1900, ouaga@dfait-maeci.gc.ca. M-Th 08:00–13:00 & 14:00–17:00; F 08:00–13:30.
China, Bâtiment 1 Parcelle No.2, lot 38 section F, OUAGA 2000 Zone A, ☏ +226 25 37 6638.
British Honorary Consulate, Based at ICI, Initiatives Conseil International, Impasse Thévenoud, 330, Secteur 01, ☏ +226 5030 8860, fax: +226 5031 2543.
United States, Secteur 15, Ouaga 2000, Rue 15.873, ☏ +266 25-49-53-00.
France, Avenue du Trésor, BP 504, ☏ +226 25 49 66 66.
BBC World Service radio broadcast in English and French in Ouagadougou on 99.2MHz FM.