Salvatierra
Salvatierra is an enchanting colonial town in Guanajuato, Mexico. The town has a fascinating history and a number of beautiful old churches in the historic Centro. Salvatierra is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
Salvatierra is a small city with a population of about 35,000 (2020). The area was originally settled by the Chichimeca, who were then conquered by the Purhepecha. The Spanish conquistadors moved into the area around 1535 with the Franciscan missionaries in tow. A hacienda was established using indigenous slave labor. Unfortunately for the indigenous people, the Spanish shared smallpox with the locals, wiping out most of the indigenous population.
The town itself was established in 1644 as San Andrés de Salvatierra. Two years later, it was decreed to be a city (the first in the state of Guanajuato).
Salvatierra was the site of the Batalla del Puente de Batanes (Battle of Batanes Bridge) during the Mexican War of Independence in 1813. The Rayon brothers were leading a revolutionary army unit charged with holding the bridge against royalist troops under Agustin Iturbide. Cowardice ultimately won the battle as Rayon's men abandoned their posts, fleeing in fear, letting the royalists take not only the bridge, but the city of Salvatierra.
Get in
Salvatierra is about 90 minutes by car from Morelia, Queretaro or Irapuato, and about 2 hours from Guanajuato or almost 4 hours west of Mexico City.
By bus
Buses are generally the best way to get around in the Bajio region and most of the larger bus stations have buses going to Salvatierra. Many buses to Salvatierra will connect in Celaya.
- 1 Central de Autobuses Salvatierra (Bus station), Melchor Ocampo s/n. Small bus station that is generally clean and provides good service. Clean rest rooms. Local food vendors.
Get around
Walking is the best way to get to know the historic downtown area (Centro) with its narrow cobblestone streets, plazas, and historic buildings. The town is fairly small, but large enough that you will want a taxi at times. A sitio is located near the Jardin de Salvatierra or your hotel front desk can call a radio taxi for you. Uber is also available.
See
- 1 Jardin de Salvatierra (Zocalo), Francisco Madero 413, Centro. Beautifully landscaped main town square with towering boxwood hedges, brick walking paths, frequent benches, fountains, statues, and a central bandstand. The town's main church and the city hall (Presidencia Municipal) are here as well as many places to buy fresh ice cream (nieves).
- 2 Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la Luz, Benito Juarez 410. Magnificently opulent colonial era baroque church with a churrigueresque facade dominated by two enormous bell towers and a large courtyard filled with sculptures, gardens, and arched patios. The interior is full of spectacular religious art with a number of 18th and 19th century oil paintings. The church was designed by Manuel Tolsa and Francisco Eduardo Tresguerras.
- 3 Museo de la Ciudad Salvatierra (Salvatierra City Museum), Benito Juarez 204, Centro. Tu-Sa 10:00-14:00 and 17:00-20:00, Su 10:00-14:00, closed M. Small regional museum with cultural and historical exhibits. Lots of antique objects and old photos, maps, and documents.
- 4 Hacienda San Jose del Carmen. This 16th century hacienda is the oldest in the state of Guanajuato, and locals say it can be a spine-chilling place to visit because it's haunted by the spirits of long-dead inhabitants, some soldiers and friars, but most the indigenous locals who were enslaved under the colonial economiendo system that permitted slaves to be held by conquering Spaniards. Visitors report seeing ghosts in the furniture, or a military man (sometimes with a train, that somehow appears inside the hacienda itself). Most agree the place would scare the bejeebers out of most anyone because it feels gloomy with dark, mildewed walls, immense heavy doors, and a labyrinth of rooms and passages.
- 5 Puente de Batanes. Historic bridge, built by Carmelite missionaries in 1652. Site of a battle in 1813 during the Mexican War of Independence.
- 6 Templo de San Francisco (St Francis Church), Calle J.Ma. Morelos Antigua 711, Centro. Historic colonial-era church with clean neo-classical architecture and a bright interior that feels more European than Mexican. The church has an interior courtyard garden with statues and fountains. Tranquil and beautiful church.
- 7 Parroquia y Convento de Capuchines, Miguel Hidalgo 202. Who doesn't want to party with nuns? Well, I don't know about the party, but you could pray in their church with them. This is an active convent and you might well see the nuns at mass. If you're just there for the sightseeing, you'll admire the stone construction and the brutal appearance that looks more like a medieval fortress than a typical church. Behind the stone walls is an absolutely beautiful church that's bright with an elaborate main altar and two side chapels. The nuns are rumored to sell obleas, churros, and rompope. Hope it's the kind with lots of rum in it.
Do
- 1 Eco Parque el Sabinal, Camino a las Presitas. Tu-Su 07:00 - 19:00, closed M. Natural park on the banks of the Rio Lerma. Very scenic with lots of rocks along the river, there's a waterfall that makes a good backdrop for selfies. Family friendly with a play area for the little guys. Picnic area with palapas and barbecue grills.
Festivals
- Marquesada - Annual festival held in September. The most anticipated event is a "running of the bulls", similar to the one in Pamplona Spain. Participants run through the city streets, chased by marauding bulls. Those who successfully elude the bulls can enjoy midway games, regional food, and folkloric music and dance.
- Festival Gastronómico de la Larga y la Quesadilla - Foodies unite in June to taste regional cuisine of Guanajuato when more than 30 local cooks will prepare traditional recipes. The term quesadilla refers to, well, quesadillas, and the term larga is local parlance for a long (hence the name larga) tortilla made over a wood-fired stove on an elongated comal. There are gastronomic workshops to learn regional cooking techniques and there is a contest in which chefs compete to come up with the most delicious modern fusion of a traditional food, as judged by a professional panel.
Buy
- 1 Mercado Miguel Hidalgo, Plaza Hidalgo 121, Centro. Daily 07:00 - 19:00. Salvatierra's traditional central marketplace is a feast for the senses. The ornate facade is unusual and is said to have been built under orders of President Porfirio Diaz. Walk the food areas where mountains of fresh fruits and vegetables beckon local shoppers. There are sections of the market for butchers, seafood, baked goods and more. An area for prepared food offers some of the tastiest, cheapest, and most authentic regional cuisine in the city. Locals particularly recommend the barbacoa.
Eat
The town is known for several local delicacies, including sweets made with locally grown guava and peanuts. Mexican ice creams are usually higher quality than many foreigners are accustomed to. They are fresher, made with pure, natural ingredients without the emulsifiers, carrageenen and other additives that make mass-market commercial ice creams feel gummy or fake. Several towns are known for their outrageously innovative flavors that might include chiles, unusual fruits, tequila or mezcal, or something completely unexpected. In Salvatierra, the innovative ice creams are sold near the Zocalo (Jardin de Salvatierra).
- 1 Mi Terruño Salvatierra, Calle 16 de Septiembre 420, Centro, ☏ +52 466 688 1705. Tu-Su 09:00-22:00, closed M. Casual traditional Mexican food served in an inviting patio area in the arches next to the Jardin de Salvatierra. Outstanding views and people watching. The food is fresh, service prompt, portions large. M$200.
- 2 Viva la Pepa, Calle Francisco Madero 407, Centro, ☏ +52 466 688 0542. Daily 07:00 - 22:00. Casual restaurant with an emphasis on Spanish cuisine. Tapas, Galician octopus, etc. Serves pizza too. M$200.
- 3 La Bella Epoca, Miguel Hidalgo 819, Centro, ☏ +52 466 161 2519. M-Sa 09:00-21:30, Su 09:00-18:00. Traditional ambience with a courtyard dining area. Traditional Mexican cuisines is well prepared. M$250.
- 4 La Veranda, Portal Del Carmen 12, Centro, ☏ +52 466 663 2814. Daily 08:00 - 24:00. Casual restaurant with large outdoor dining area. Great views and people watching. Traditional Mexican cuisine.
Drink
Sleep
- 1 Plaza Madero Hotel Boutique, Francisco Madero 413, ☏ +52 466 688 1965. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Small upscale hotel with just eight rooms that combines traditional decor with modern amenities. Clean, comfortable rooms. M$1300.
- 2 Hotel Misión San Pablo, Miguel Hidalgo 609, Centro, ☏ +52 466 663 1111. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with clean, comfortable, spacious rooms but fairly basic services (no a/c or cable). On-site restaurant is good for breakfast but closed in evenings. Small off-site parking lot is available.
- 3 Hotel San Andres, San Andrés 650-B-int. 11, Centro Histórico, ☏ +52 466 161 2028. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Small traditional hotel with personal service. Clean, comfortable rooms that have good a/c and cable TV. Very small parking lot where cars are packed in tight.
Connect
Cellular service is reliable in town and on all the major highways in the region. As of 2023, service is mostly 4G. Telcel is the major carrier. Most hotels, restaurants and public places have good internet service with available Wi-Fi.
Stay Safe
Salvatierra is usually safe however it is advised to be cautious at night. The plaza is safe and can be walked on during the night. There is a high presence of police in Salvatierra and there is always some in the plaza.
Recently there has been some gang violence in some neighborhoods however tourists are not targeted and should be fine.