Jakar
Jakar in Central Bhutan is known as a bastion of Vajrayana Buddhism, especially the Nyingma tradition, and there are many monasteries and sacred sites here. Spacious and surrounded by tree-covered mountains, Jakar is nestled in the Choekor Valley, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful in all Bhutan, and it is commonly referred to as "Little Switzerland".
Understand
Jakar is the principal administrative town of Bumthang district, and sits at an altitude of 2,800 m (9,200 ft). The cluster of villages below the dzong, which are collectively known as Jakar Town, have a population of around 6,200 (2017).
History
Buddhism: Jakar was the first place in Bhutan that Guru Rinpoche visited, and as the ruler of the region subsequently converted to Buddhism, Jakar is accorded the title of the birthplace of Buddhism in Bhutan. In addition, one of the most venerated and accomplished teachers of the Vajrayana school of Buddhism, Pema Lingpa, was born in the Jakar area and later established Tamshing Monastery in the town as his main seat.
Jakar Dzong: When a group of lamas visited the area searching for a suitable site for a new dzong, a single white bird was observed continuously circled overhead before settling on the top of a hillock. This was considered a good omen, and in 1667 a dzong was constructed on the site, which was subsequently named White Bird (jakar).
Wangchuck Dynasty: Ugyen Wangchuck, the first king of Bhutan, was born in Wangdicholing Palace in Jakar, and after his succession to the throne in 1907, he set up the national government in the town, thereby establishing Jakar as the first capital of the Wangchuck dynasty.
Climate
In the winter temperatures often drop below freezing, and coupled with strong winds Jakar becomes a very cold place in the winter. The best time to visit the area is from late May until the end of September.
Get in
By plane
- Druk Air operates a number of flights a week from Paro to Jakar (Bathpalathang Airport). The flight takes around 30 minutes.
By bus
- Meto Transport coaster buses depart Thimphu bus station at 6:30AM daily. It is a 9 to 10-hour journey from the capital, and a one-way ticket costs less than 300 Nu. The bus does not make a stop until lunch time, so take snacks.
Get around
- As the tourist and pilgrimage sites are scattered throughout the area, a vehicle is essential to get around. Taxis can be hired from the main bazaar.
See
Landmarks
- 1 Jakar Dzong. The fortress was constructed in 1667, but rebuilt after being severely damaged in an earthquake in 1897. It is one of the largest and most impressive dzongs in Bhutan and houses the administrative and monastic offices for the Bumthang district.
- Wangdicholing Palace. Built in 1857, the palace served as the principal summer residence of the first and second kings of Bhutan. It is an unassuming structure, lacking the ramparts and protective walls which became standard features of later palaces. It serves as museum for artifacts relating to the history of the palace, and to the first and second king.
Monasteries are referred to by their Dzongkha title of lhakhang or gompa.
- 2 Kurje Lhakhang (also Kurjey). One of Bhutan's most sacred monasteries. A body print of Guru Rinpoche is preserved in a cave around which the oldest of the three buildings is built. The original building was constructed in 1652 by Trongsa Penlop, while the latest addition was added by the late Queen Mother Ashi Kesang Wangchuk in 1990. A huge cypress tree (or perhaps a decedent tree) that over hangs the building is said to have grown from Guru Rinpoche's walking stick.
- Zangtopelri Lhakhang. Consecrated in 2008, this latest addition to the sacred sites in the area houses a two-story high mandala representing Guru Rinpoche's Copper Colored Mountain. Zangtopelri is a short walk from Kuje Lhakhang.
- Jambey Lhakhang. One of the 108 monasteries that were miraculously constructed by King Songten Gampo in one night. The monastery is located between Kurjey Lhakang and Jakar Dzong.
- Lhodrak Kharchhu Lhakhang This monastery above the town is a more recent addition to the pantheon of monasteries in Jakar. The abbot, Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche, is a very highly respected teacher in Bhutan and speaks some English.
- Tamshing Gompa. A monastery established in 1501 by the local Buddhist saint Pema Lingpa. The two story building contains some lovely frescoes, and has a very low ceiling (apparently Pema Lingpa was very short!) In addition, there is 500-year-old suit of metal chain made by Pema Lingpa located on the first floor. It is considered auspicious to circumambulate the temple three times with the chain draped over the back and shoulders.
- Chakhar Lhakhang (Iron Castle). This small and unassuming temple marks the site of the palace of Sindhu Raja, the Indian monarch who first invited Guru Rimpoche to Bhutan. The original palace was said to be made of iron and nine stories in height. The current building was constructed by Dorji Lingpa in the 14th century.
For information on customs and symbols in Buddhism, see: Buddhism
Chumey village
See
1 Chumey village is a small village 27 km south-west of Jakar.
- Tharpaling Gompa. Founded by the dzogchen master Longchen Rabjam in 1352, the monastery was also home to the famous Nyingma guru Jigme Lingpa in the 18th century. It is located at 3,600 m, and is home to around 150 monks. It can be reached by a partly paved road.
- Weaving. Most weaving houses display their wares outdoors, and visitors are welcome to watch the process. Woolen garments and bags can be purchased on site.
Sleep
- Chumey Nature Resort, Gyetsa (on the main Chumey-Jakar Highway), ☏ +975 77325961, chumeynatureresort08@gmail.com. A tourist standard hotel. Quiet forest location. Traditional and inviting interior
Do
- Tour the stunning country-side
- Visit sacred sites
Festivals
As an area famed for its monasteries and sacred sites, Jakar plays host to several tshechu (religious) festivals throughout the year. The highlight of a tshechu is the masked dances conducted by monks, which were developed according to precise instructions given by past Buddhist masters. According to Buddhist philosophy, all experiences leave an imprint in the mind stream that produces a corresponding result in the future, and so viewing dances, such as these, that are imbued with sacred symbolism is considered to be a very auspicious and sanctifying experience. While the event is not held in a solemn atmosphere and there is much merriment, visitors are reminded that it is still a religious festival that holds great significance in the lives of Bhutanese people, and so appropriate behavior is expected.
- Domkhar Tshechu (Chumey): 18–20 April 2024
- Nimalung Tshechu (Chumey): 14–16th June 2024
- Kurjey Tshechu (Jakar): 16 Sep 2024
- Tamshingphala Choepa (Jakar): 13-15 Sep 2024
- Jakar Dzong Tshechu (Jakar): 10–12 Nov 2024
- Jambay Lakhang Drup (Tshechu) (Jakar): 15–18 Nov 2024
Buy
- Woven wool items (yethra) - garments, rugs and bags woven with brightly colored wool are a unique product of the Jakar/Chumey area and are highly prized throughout the kingdom.
- Dzo (female yak) cheese and preserves.
- Wood carvings
Shops
The main bazaar (Chamkhar) was severely damaged in a fire in 2010, and the present buildings are temporary structures. The new town across the river is slated to open in 2024.
- Dragon Handicrafts, Main town. Handicrafts from all over Bhutan. Wide selection of local Bumthang products.
- Udee Woodcarving Workshop. Furniture and traditional Bhutanese artifacts. https://www.facebook.com/udeebumthang/
- Yoser Lham, Main town. A kind of deli, selling cheese cut from the block and varies kinds of apple products, such as juice, wine and brandy.
Eat
Most of the tourist hotels in Jakar offer local and international cuisine
- 1 Himalayan Pizza (just off the main bazaar). Daily 9AM-9PM. Opened by a local guy who studied in Germany. Serves pizza and spaghetti.
- Tashi Restaurant (below the dzong). Serves simple local dishes, such as ema datshi and cheese and meat momos.
- Deki Hotel. Serves simple meals.
Drink
Most of the tourist hotels in Jakar serve coffee, tea and alcohol. Fresh apple juice is also available in season.
Coffee
- Cafe Perk, Chamkhar Bazaar. Latte, cappuccino, espresso. Traditional Bhutanese setting. Pizza, pasta, desserts
- Happy Cafe, Chamkhar Bazaar (in direction of Karchu Monastery, on right, next to the bridge). Full range of coffees. Reputedly the best pizza in town
- Happy Garden Resort, Dekiling (in direction of Kurjey Monastery, on right, five minutes from main town). Full range of coffees. Traditional interior
Sleep
Budget
Mid-range
- Hotel Jakar View, Jalikha village (1.5kms from the main town), ☏ +975 17948345, hoteljakarviewbum@gmail.com. A family-run hotel surrounded by pine trees on all sides. The rooms have views over Jakar Town and Jakar Dzong. Activities and cooking classes can be arranged. Hot stone bath.
- Jakar Village Lodge, ☏ +975 3 631-242, fax: +975 3 631-377. Below the dzong, this hotel is famous for its excellent food.
- Kaila Lodge, ☏ +975 3 631-219, fax: +975 3 631-247. Decorated in classic style and convenient for town center.
- Mipham Guest House (across the river from the main bazaar and just below Lhodrak Kharchhu Monstery). This stone and wood built building offers wood burning stoves in all its rooms and spectacular views across the valley to Jakar Dzong. Double 1,350 Nu, Single 1,250 Nu.
- The Swiss Guest House, ☏ +975 3 631-145, fax: +975 3 631-918, swissguesthouse@druknet.bt. Above the river overlooking the town and the dzong, surrounded by apple orchards and beautifully decorated. It offers draft beer, a rare commodity in Bhutan.
- Wangdicholing Guest House, ☏ +975 3 631-107, fax: +975 3 631-138. A rebuilt lodge offering lovely views over the valley.
- Yugharling Resort, ☏ +975 3 631602. Near the town. Good facilities and stunning views.
Splurge
- Amankora Bumthang, ☏ +975 2-331333, amankora@amanresorts.com. An environmentally sensitive lodge in an apple orchard next to Wangdicholing Palace, run by superluxury hotel group Aman. The 16-room facility offers spa and international cuisine. US$1000.
- Six Senses, ☏ +975 2 350 773. An eight-suit resort close to a river and within a dense blue pine forest. US$2,000.
Cope
Connect
- Area dialling code: The code for Jakar and Bumthang is 03. From overseas, dial +975 3 XXXXXX
- Post Office: The main branch is at the lower end of the bazaar, near the bridge
Hospitals/clinics
- Tibetan Medicine: Yuthok Tendar Traditional Medicine Service Center, Lhodrak Kharchu Monastery. https://www.facebook.com/yuthoktendarcentre/?locale=cy_GB
- Western Medicine: Wangdicholing General Hospital. Wangdicholing. https://www.facebook.com/www.wangduecholinghos.bt/ A small, but well equipped hospital. with OPD and wards.
Go next
- Duer Hot Springs. A 1½-day trek from the road head.
- Kunzang Drak, Tang. The retreat center of Pema Lingpa. It is about a one hour hike from the main road running through the Tang Valley.
- Mebar Tsho (Burning Lake), Tang. A place where some of Guru Rinpoche's scriptural treasures (Tib:terma) were discovered in the 15th century by the famous treasure discover Pema Lingpa.
- Ura (3,100 m). With its cobbled streets and monastery set against a backdrop of snow covered mountain peaks, Ura has an usually tranquil and gentle charm.