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Asia > Middle East > Iraq > Baghdad Belts > Baghdad


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Travel Warning WARNING: As much as the Iraqi war is over Baghdad remains too dangerous for leisure travel. Those who are travelling here on business are strongly advised to consult their own government first and look closely at security requirements. Besides, after the siege of U.S. embassy at Baghdad, and the airstrike on Baghdad Airport that assassinated two high-ranking Iranian military officials and also killed several Iraqis, there is a high risk of war. The United States Department of State has urged American citizens to leave Iraq immediately, and nationals of other countries should also be alert to their countries' evacuation plan, if the situation in Iraq worsens.

The British Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises against all travel to Baghdad.

(Information last updated Jan 2020)

A historic mosque

Baghdad (Arabic: بـغداد Baġdād) is the capital of Iraq.


Once one of the greatest centres of learning and culture in the world, Baghdad has a long and illustrious history. Once a favoured destination on the 'hippie trail' and packed full of sights, since the American-led invasion of 2003, Baghdad has since become one of the most dangerous cities on earth.

Get in

Travel to Baghdad is not recommended (Sep 2018) because of wartime instability and security concerns. Westerners are particular targets of kidnapping and assassination by militant and extremist groups. Baghdad airport is secure, so transiting there if necessary is safe.

By plane

A flying carpet sculpture on the wall at Baghdad International Airport.

1 Baghdad International Airport Baghdad International Airport on Wikipedia (previously Saddam International Airport) BGW IATA is about 16 km west from the centre of Baghdad. After some damage during the wars, the airport is in full operation and growing due to the recovery of Iraq. All of the usual airport facilities are available, such as banks, money exchange, ATMs, mobile phone companies, restaurants and even a hotel. The airport has three interlinked terminals, one of which is being refurbished. It is easy to walk between the terminals both land side and air side. One terminal is used by Iraqi Airways (the most counter-clockwise one) and the middle one handles all other flights. The food outlets are small and limited air side, so if you have a long wait, it is better to check in and return back through security to use the land side restaurants.

The national airline is Iraqi Airways that operates a growing fleet of more than 30 modern jets. Their main activity are domestic flights but Iraqi Airways also offers flights to numerous international destinations. FlyBaghdad also has local and regional flights to/from BIAP.

The best way from Europe to Baghdad is either with Austrian or Turkish Airlines. Austrian Airlines provides four flights per week from Vienna (VIE IATA) to BIAP. Turkish Airlines flies twice daily from Istanbul (IST IATA) to BIAP.

Within the Middle East, Royal Jordanian Airlines operates two daily roundtrip flights from Amman(AMM IATA). Emirates and the low-cost carrier flydubai from Dubai arrive on a daily basis in Baghdad and Basra.

Diplomats, private military contractors, and intelligence agents can use Gryphon Airlines. Gryphon offers flights between the military side of BIAP and Kuwait City.

For those working for Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) in Iraq, there are two charter airlines operating into BIAP. Skylink and AirServ operate frequent flights. Travel on either of these services requires sponsorship by your NGO to get you onto an approved traveller list maintained by each. Schedules and services can be irregular, and change frequently.

Baghdad airport is under control of the Iraqi government. Take-offs and landings at BIAP are controlled by the Iraqi Ministry of Transportation. Several critical pieces of Air Traffic Control gear have not been turned on, and the result of this is that BIAP can only accommodate Visual Flight Rule (VFR) landings, not instrument landings. Because of this, the frequent sandstorms that hit the area can obscure visibility and cause flights to be turned away. It is not unusual for commercial flights to make it all the way to BIAP, and then turn around and return to their origin due to limited visibility on the runway.

When departing at BIAP, be prepared for some queuing. If you are not working in Iraq on a government contract, your entrance to the airport grounds about three or four miles from the airport terminal will require you and your vehicle to wait in line to be searched. These security checkpoints can take from two to three hours to process through. The best strategy is to find accommodations somewhere within the BIAP area of control on the day prior to your flight so that you aren't subjected to the long wait and end up missing your flight.

By train

Nightly train services are available from Basra, arriving early morning. Prices range between IQD 10,000 for a couchette to IQD 25,000 for first-class. Irregular services from Karbala, mostly on weekends, are available too. Additionally, trains runs twice per day from Fallujah. Due to the ongoing conflict cancellations are common.

  • 2 Baghdad Central Station (محطة بغداد المركزية), Damascus Sq. Completed in 1953, Baghdad Central Station is an architecturally impressive terminus, all trains call here. Located on Qahira Street, a kilometre north of city centre, at Damascus Square. Baghdad Central Station (Q3544831) on Wikidata Baghdad Central Station on Wikipedia

By car

Overland travel is possible from all neighbouring countries, but is strongly discouraged due to violence.

By bus

Multiple daily buses arrive from most major Iraqi cities. Long-distance bus services from Istanbul and Ankara restarted in the summer of 2018, with two departures per week. However journey time is a gruelling 30 hours or more. Most long-distance buses arrive at the sprawling 3 Al-Alawi bus terminal (گراج العلاوي), next to the central station. Buses leave and arrive from stands both north and south of the Allawi skyway.

Get around

Traveling around Baghdad is dangerous due to almost daily bombings and shootings. Those that can afford it use helicopter or armored cars. The International Zone around government buildings and the embassy area is safer and it is possible to walk or use a bicycle, even here however it is always important to be vigilant.

Baghdad is served by an extensive bus network, maps of the network is however not available in English. A commuter service connects the city with the southern suburb of Doura. Taxis are also plentiful and quite cheap to use.


National Museum of Iraq.
The iconic Freedom Monument at Tahrir square.
  • 1 Al-Faw Palace (قصر الفاو). Also known as the Water Palace for its site beside the Tigris River. Used as a military base for US troops Al-Faw Palace (Q427756) on Wikidata Al-Faw Palace on Wikipedia
  • 2 Baghdad Zoo (حديقة حيوانات بغداد). The largest zoo in the country, opened in 1971. It was destroyed in the 2003 war but has quickly recovered. There are, however, few larger mammals to see. Baghdad Zoo (Q2349688) on Wikidata Baghdad Zoo on Wikipedia
  • 3 Swords of Qādisīyah (قوس النصر) (Inside the Green Zone). A huge pair of triumphal arches celebrating the alleged victory over Iran. Also known as the Hands of Victory. It marks the entrances to a former parade ground. Victory Arch (Q1340523) on Wikidata Victory Arch on Wikipedia
  • 4 Monument to the Unknown Soldier (صرح الجندي المجهول). Inspired by the glorification of a martyr from the Iran–Iraq War. The monument represents a traditional shield (dira¹a) dropping from the dying grasp of an Iraqi warrior. The monument used to house a museum which is now mostly empty. Ask the Iraqi soldiers who guard the monument for permission. The Monument to the Unknown Soldier (Q7752141) on Wikidata The Monument to the Unknown Soldier on Wikipedia
  • 5 Al-Shaheed Monument (نُصب الشهيد) (East side of the Tigris river, near the Army Canal). Another monument dedicated to the Iraqi soldiers who died in the Iran-Iraq war. The monument consists of a circular platform 190 metres in diameter in the centre of an artificial lake. A museum, library, cafeteria, lecture hall, and exhibition gallery are on two levels underneath the domes. Al-Shaheed Monument (Q310023) on Wikidata Al-Shaheed Monument on Wikipedia
  • 6 Freedom Monument (نصب الحرية‎). Located at the epicenter of Baghdadi civic life, the Tahrir square, this iconic and massive sculpture is one of the city's most well-loved monuments. Completed in 1961, the sculpture spans almost 50 meters in length and features bronze castings depicting the history of Iraq.
  • Abbasid Palace. One of the oldest buildings in Baghdad, from the 12th or 13th century . The palace is part of the central historical area of the city.


  • 7 National Museum of Iraq (المتحف العراقي). Covering the history of Mesopotamian culture, this museum housed a huge collection before the Iraq War. Today, many pieces have been looted and the museum is open only on special occasions. National Museum of Iraq (Q521251) on Wikidata National Museum of Iraq on Wikipedia
  • 8 Baghdadi Museum (المتحف البغدادي) (Eastern bank of Tigris, 200 metres from Shuhada bridge.). History and folklore museum depicting life in Baghdad. Baghdadi Museum (Q10424690) on Wikidata Baghdadi Museum on Wikipedia


  • 9 Al-Kadhimiya Mosque (الحضرة الكاظمية) (Northwest of Baghdad). One of the most important Shi'ite religious sites in Iraq. It was finished in 1515 and the 7th Musa ibn Jafar al-Kathim and the 9th Imams Mohammed Al-Jawad were buried there. Al-Kadhimiya Mosque (Q154116) on Wikidata Al-Kadhimiya Mosque on Wikipedia
  • 10 Umm al-Qura Mosque (جامع أم القرى). A mosque built to commemorate the "victory" in the 1991 Gulf War, the minarets are shaped like barrels of guns and SCUD missiles. Umm al-Qura Mosque (Q1325641) on Wikidata Umm al-Qura Mosque on Wikipedia


  • 11 Cathedral of Our Lady of Sorrows. Built in 1898, it is the seat of the Chaldean Catholic Patriarchate of Babylon. Cathedral of Mary Mother of Sorrows (Q30674229) on Wikidata Cathedral of Our Lady of Sorrows on Wikipedia
  • 12 St. Joseph's Cathedral (كاتدرائية القديس يوسف). Seat of the Archdiocese of Baghdad, the current building dates back to 1866. Saint Joseph Cathedral Baghdad (Q2942360) on Wikidata St. Joseph's Cathedral, Baghdad on Wikipedia



Travel Warning WARNING: Employment arrangements are always made in your home country. Do not come to Iraq on your own to look for work. People have been killed attempting this!

There are several ways to work in Iraq as a foreigner. For US citizens the most obvious is the US Army which still maintains personnel here. Next are the government contractors, such as the construction company KBR . Many contractors hire personnel with prior military experience to return to Iraq. Persons with military experience or who are fluent in Arabic are especially sought after. Lastly, there are civilian government agencies in Iraq. USAID and the US Department of State send their own personnel as well as contractors to Iraq.

The agencies above are all relevant for US citizens. Citizens of other countries with a presence in Iraq can apply for work through the respective agencies in their home country.


Rugs and DVDs are available to buy. Inspect the quality of rugs carefully: Some are cheap Chinese-made rugs, and many are extremely overpriced. Also, many DVDs, especially those from street vendors, are bootlegs of varying quality.


Restaurants and cafés are notorious targets for suicide bombers, making eating out a quite dangerous activity. However, safety is much better among the restaurants inside the Green Zone. The zone is also the place for finding American fast-food in the Middle East including Burger King, McDonald's, and Subway.


  • Bob Hope Burger Bar (At Baghdad International Airport), +964 7903852457. One of the few American-style restaurants outside the Green Zone.


  • Marsa Al-Zawariq (On Abu Nuwas St), +964 5373228. A place famous for its kebab grills.



Iraqi tea served at Shah Bender Café.

While Baghdad is undergoing something of a liberalization regarding both night life and alcohol, it is still not widely available and large parts of society frowns upon it. While some bars exists, particularly along Abu Nawas Street, a safe bet is always the bars of the top tier hotels. Many international organisations have their own bars as well, and some are open to outsiders.

Tea houses and cafés are however ubiquitous, and often open late into the night.

  • 1 Shah Bender Café, Mutanabbi St. The oldest operating tea house in Baghdad, a hub to discuss matters of the day over a cup of tea.


Most organizations arrange their own accommodation inside the Green Zone. Sleeping in hotels in the proper city is always a risk due to bombings.



  • Baghdad International Airport Hotel (فندق مطار بغداد الدولي). A standard business hotel, but with quite a hefty price. On secure grounds at the airport and often used by people visiting on business. USD225 for a standard room, lower rates when staying longer.
  • 1 Inter Hotel, Abu Nawas Street, +964 780 926 2844.



Stay safe

See also War zone safety

The easiest way to stay safe in Baghdad is not to go there in the first place, except for official reasons. Movement within Baghdad is difficult and entry into the International Zone (IZ), aka Green Zone, requires a pass or that you be accompanied by authorized officials. Iraq is a war zone and even if you're from a country which is part of the coalition, you will not be granted entry into the IZ without authorization, and even the IZ is not completely safe, and may be prone to civil unrest or even outright conflict, such as rocket attacks. Most expats and business travellers to Iraq hire a security detail which constantly monitors the security situation within Iraq and around Baghdad. Travel outside the IZ is extremely dangerous. Roadside and car bombs are detonated every day in Baghdad. Many Iraqis are armed. Markets and popular gathering places are frequent targets of bombers. As a foreigner you are more likely to be targeted for kidnapping. Kidnappings are often financially motivated. These threats are not restricted to Americans or women. You are also likely to be refused access to accommodation as Iraqis will fear being targeted for supporting the occupying forces.

As of January, 2020, the U.S. military carried out drone airstrikes in Baghdad. American military drones were heavily loaded with weapons targeting Iranian military personnel and Shi'ah militia forces. The following is some advice on drone airstrikes:

  • Drones are characterized by the loud buzzing noise that they make, equivalent to that made by a bee or a lawnmower. You may also see the aircraft circling overhead.
  • Do not:
    • Lie down and drop something on a road (it looks like you are laying an improvised explosive device)
    • run
    • point at the aircraft.
These actions may result in the aircraft opening fire at you.
  • Just pretend that you don't see the aircraft and that you are having a normal day.
  • Stay away from anyone who you suspect to be a member of Iranian military or Shi'ah militia forces. They will be targeted, and if you are near them you may be caught in the blast radius of the aircraft's weapons.



Go next

  • Basra — second largest city in Iraq
  • Mosul — third largest city in Iraq
  • Assur and Hatra — archaeological sites from the Cradle of Civilization
This city travel guide to Baghdad is a usable article. It has information on how to get there and on restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.