Candelaria
Candelaria is a small town in the jungles of Campeche, on the banks of the Rio Candelaria. This is Mayan territory with the El Tigre archaeological site being the best known local ruins. It is also a magnet for naturalists who come for the jungles, the river, waterfalls, and the myriad species of plants and wildlife. The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
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Candelaria has a population of just over 11,000 people (2020). It is the largest town in the region with many small villages and subsistence farms making up the surrounding municipality (of which Candelaria is the seat).
Get in
[edit]Candelaria was once difficult to reach, but with the opening of the new Tren Maya, it is a comfortable high-speed train ride from Campeche, Merida, Cancun or other parts of the Yucatan Peninsula. The nearest airport is Campeche, the largest airport in the region is Cancún International Airport.
By train
[edit]Candelaria is a full-service station stop on the Tren Maya on the section between Campeche and Palenque. From Cancun, the train takes 9 hours to reach Candelaria and the fare for international tourist-class travelers is M$2284 (M$3654 for first class). From Campeche, the fare to Candelaria is M$732 and the trip takes 2½ hours. From Merida, the fare is M$1306 and the trip takes 5 hours. Tickets can be purchased through the official Tren Maya ticket sales site.
- 1 Estacion Tren Maya - Candelaria, Calle 18, Centro. Large modern full-service train station with ticket sales, baggage check, a waiting room, and covered platform for boarding and disembarking. The station is in the town's downtown area so ground transportation is easy and affordable.
By bus
[edit]From Campeche, Autobuses ATS operates one daily bus to Candelaria. The trip takes 3 hours and costs M$300.
- 2 Terminal Candelaria, Calle 17 No. 34, Centro. Small bus terminal serving ATS-Sur and ADO. Ticket sales, Small waiting room.
Get around
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The downtown area is best navigated by walking. Renting a bike is a great way to get a feel for the town or reach further points of interest. Taxis are available at a sitios near the Parque Principal or can be called to your hotel. Boats can be hired at the waterfront for paddling on the river, or for exploring further up or down stream.
The town is laid out roughly on a grid, but some streets end unexpectedly. Even numbered streets (like Calle 4 or Calle 18) run east-west. Odd numbered streets run north-south.
See
[edit]- 1 Parque Principal, Calle 11, Centro. The town's main plaza is rather ugly by Mexican standards with far too many paving blocks and far too few trees. It is what it is, and that is ugly and uninviting on a fiercely hot sunny day. Fortunately, 99% of Mexican towns have much more attractive zocalos than Candelaria.
Do
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- El Tigre Archaeological Site (Itzamkanac). Daily 08:00 - 17:00. El Tigre is a very cool (and very large) site that is right on the Rio Candelaria. Renown during the pre-Hispanic era as an important trading center for a large area, it was also an important ceremonial site and is famous as the place where Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes executed Cuahtemoc, heir to the Aztec throne of Moctezuma. The city was the capital for the Chontal Maya and its domain spanned a large region from the Gulf Coast through much of today's states of Chiapas and Campeche. The site includes two large plazas with four large buildings. There are at least 13 temples on the site and 3 Mesoamerican ball courts, including one in the Central plaza area. The architecture is a mix of Peten, Rio Bec, and post-classic styles. Archaeologists surmise that the city had at least 10,000 residents at its peak. The archaeological site is about 50 km from the town of Candelaria and though it can be reached by a narrow, dirt jungle road, the more adventurous (and fun) way to get there is by riverboat from the Candelaria waterfront. The boats are small pangas and take about 2 hours to reach the site, departing early in the morning. Unlike many INAH-operated historical sites, interpretive guides are not available in the park, but rather are hired in Candelaria and will accompany you along the way. Group tours to the site can also be arranged in Candelaria with van picking you up at your hotel around 06:00 and returning you there the same evening. M$80.
- Rio Candelaria. The river starts in the Peten region of Guatemala and runs 400 km to the Laguna del Carmen. Near the town, the river is wide with a strong current but is popular for canoe trips and fishing. A malecón along the town's riverfront is a popular walkway for evening strolls. There are several waterfalls along the river including Salto Grande, Salto Toro and Salto Muerto ("Waterfall of the Dead", yeahhhh, that's what I'm talkin' 'bout!)
Buy
[edit]Eat
[edit]- 1 La Palapa de Gonzalo, 5 1, San Isidro, ☏ +52 981 101 7481. Tu-Su 10:00 - 19:00, closed M. Scenic riverside restaurant with several palapas in a park-like setting on the river banks, each palapa with its own dining table. The food is mostly carne asada, grilled meats including beef and chicken. Several shrimp dishes are available. Full bar with large cocktails. M$200.
- 2 Gouter Coffee, C. 21 x C. 16, Centro, ☏ +52 983 140 3085. Daily 07:00 - 23:00. Friendly small coffee shop serving breakfast, sandwiches, and full dinners. M$100.
- 3 Restaurante Parroquia, C. 14, Centro, ☏ +52 982 108 6827. M-F 06:00 - 22:00, closed Sa-Su. Basic restaurant that serves Yucatecan Mexican food, such as pok chuck, but often hit-and-miss service. M$150.
- 4 Hashiru, C. 13 LB, Centro, ☏ +52 982 826 0683. Th-Tu 13:00 - 23:00, closed W. Stylishly contemporary Japanese restaurant with an elegant dining room with white cloth napkins and tablecloths, attentive waiters, and delicious Japanese food including a full sushi bar and favorites like teriyaki and tempura. Probably the best restaurant in Candelaria. M$200.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]- 1 Posada Lol Ka'Naab, #23, Calle 2-A x 27, Col. San Martín, Acalán, ☏ +52 982 826 0324. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Small, Moderate hotel with spacious rooms, comfortable beds, and friendly service. M$500.
- 2 Hotel Taxaha, Nueva Creacion, ☏ +52 982 826 0719. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern hotel with clean, comfortable, spacious rooms with comfortable beds, cold air conditioning. Off-street parking available. No on-site restaurant. Lower floors are better because there is no elevator. M$650.
- 3 Hotel Dubai, 27 1, Acalán, ☏ +52 982 826 4149. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Modern upscale hotel with spacious rooms in semi-private cabins. Large outdoor swimming pool available.
- 4 Hotel del Bosque, San Martín, C. 4 2, San Martín, ☏ +52 982 826 0395. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic budget hotel with somewhat dated furnishings.
- 5 Hotel Palma Real, C. 10 5, Centro, ☏ +52 982 826 0743. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Comfortable Moderate hotel with clean, spacious rooms with cold air conditioning. Ample off-street parking. Outdoor swimming pool available. WiFi is sketchy. M$700.