The small Italian island of Capri is 5 km from the mainland in the Bay of Naples, a celebrated beauty spot and coastal resort since the days of the Roman Republic until now. It is also part of Campania.
Capri, known in Greek mythology as the isle of the sirens, was a favored resort of the Roman emperors. Most notoriously, the emperor Tiberius had his villa on the island, the location (supposedly) of debauched orgies. Those who displeased the emperor were flung to their deaths from the cliffs. The island is world-famous and is very touristy, especially when swamped with tourists in July & August, but other times of year it is calmer and more relaxing.
The isle of Capri is the setting for William Somerset Maugham's The Lotus Eater, a short story in which the Bostonian protagonist arrives in Capri on holiday, wherein he is so enchanted by the place that he abandons his job and decides to spend the rest of his life in leisure on the island.
Villa San Michele in Anacapri is the former residence of Swedish physician Axel Munthe (1857-1949) and the main scenery of his memoir, The Story of San Michele. Among other stories, he describes his youthful discovery of the ruins (1874) out of which he eventually created the villa (1895).
Pronunciation of the name
Many brand names of products are pronounced kuh-PREE in English-speaking countries, but if you want to pronounce the name of the island like Italians do, you have to say KAH-pree.
- Capri is reached in about 40 minutes by hydrofoil from the port of Ischia or Forio, docking at 1 Marina Grande on the north side of the island. There are also daily ferries from Naples (20 per day, €16, 40 minutes), Amalfi, Positano and from Sorrento (15 per day, €20, 30 minutes (Oct 2019)). Boats are operated by Caremar and SNAV.
- For arriving in style, Capritime Boats specialises in water taxi direct transfers from Naples, Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast and Ischia to Capri. They also provide luxury full-day and half-day boat tours to the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento Coast from Capri, tailor itineraries for cruise ship passengers docked in Sorrento, Capri, Naples and Amalfi and also offer special Capri and Ischia island boat excursions.
- From Marina Grande, a funicular goes up to Capri Town, and boats leave for the Blue Grotto. The fourth store to the right of the funicular provides baggage storage for €2.50/day per bag, from 08:30-18:00. Tickets for buses, funicular, and return boats are for sale at kiosks, along with public toilets. The Tourist Information office offers €1 maps, open daily April to October 08:30-20:30, November to March 09:00-13:00 & 15:30-14:30. The Bar Augusto has internet access from 06:00-20:00.
- By foot: from the main harbour to the town up the hill leads a range of stairs. Stairs and walkways, mostly signposted, crisscross the island.
- By funicolare: this mountain tram (same stuff as in Naples, Heidelberg, Barcelona and San Francisco) connects the harbour with the town up the hill. €2 per trip (Oct 2019). Read also about the unified public transport ticket Campania Unico.
- By taxi: The open top taxis are expensive, but if there are a group of you, worth considering. Haggle to get a price to ferry you around the island for the day (it won't be cheap - but very little on Capri is!).
- By bus: Island buses are readily available to take you to the various areas of the island. They run on a schedule and cost €2 per ride (Oct 2019). Buses run from:
- Marina Grande to Capri town (4 per hour) and then take bus to Anacapri (4 per hour) but the Capri to Anacapri bus gets crowded, so you could take a bus direct from Marina to Anacapri (2 per hour)
- Anacapri Buses go to Capri (at least 4 per hour) and to the Blue Grotto
- The town of Anacapri and its surrounding villas and hikes
- 1 Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra). The Blue Grotto is a beautiful cave at the water's edge with a tiny opening to the sea that opens and closes with the tide, used as a bath since the Roman times. The entrance is small and depending on the tide there is just enough space for only a small rowboat to get through. Dark at the entrance, one has to enter 20-30 yards and then turn around to view the beautiful sight of the light from the entrance flowing through the water lit turquoise from below by the sun. Hence the sight of the "Blue Grotto". You'll be amazed at the turquoise hues glimmering in the water and against the rocks. The grotto often closes due to tides and waves, and it may take a while for your boat to get in, with many other boats trying to do the same. It may also be advisable to check the tides beforehand to avoid disappointment. The trip on the passenger boat from Marina Grande to outside the Blue Grotto cavern costs about €18, then €14 per person (Oct 2019) for the rowboat to take you in through the tiny entrance which includes the entrance ticket to the cave and demands from the oarsman for a tip, with a round trip of about 1 to 3 hours. There are also cruises that circumnavigate Capri and stop at the Blue Grotto allowing passengers to board a row boat and enter the grotto. You can also take a bus to Anacapri, walking 100 m (inquire locally), then taking another bus to the Grotta Azzurra. This has the advantage of cutting on the cost from Marina Grande, as well as placing you near Anacapri where much else is to be seen. The grotto is open from 09:00 to one hour before sunset daily. If the grotto closes suddenly (hopefully while you are outside it), consider an €18 cruise around the magnificent Faraglioni Rocks instead. The Blue Grotto is one of those 'love it' or 'loathe it' places. At peak times the queue of tour boats and those arriving by land can be 1 to 2 hours long and the total time in the cave is only a few minutes. Some will wonder what all the fuss is about (it's a cave with a small pool of blue water) and will begrudge the cost and time involved in seeing it. Others adore the place.
- 2 Villa Jovis. Splendid residence of the Emperor Tiberius, start from Piazzetta Umberto I and turn into Via delle Botteghe, continuing straight on through Via Fuorlovado, Via Croce and, finally, Via Tiberio. After visiting the villa, you could dedicate some time to other attractions in the vicinity, such as the Church of Santa Maria del Soccorso, the Cave of Tiberius and the Lighthouse Tower.
- Sunrise - If you take the early ferry from Naples (the one at 06:45), then as you travel to Capri, the sun rises over the mountains. The sky turns from deep violet to pink to orange to gold. It is an amazingly beautiful sight, certainly worth waking up at the ungodly hour!
- 3 Villa San Michele (in Anacapri.). Swedish physician Axel Munthe built it at the turn of the 20th century on the grounds of one of Tiberius's ancient villas. The gardens have stupendous views of the island, the Sorrentine Peninsula and Mount Vesuvius. The villa and its grounds sit on a ledge at the top of the so-called Phoenician Steps (Scala Fenicia in Italian), built between Anacapri and Capri very probably by the first Greek settlers (the stairs are very steep and not for everybody). The good doctor wrote a book about the building of the villa and it makes good reading (The Story of San Michele). You'll find the book in many languages at the villa gift store for about €10. The villa makes a very nice visit, and along the road to get here you'll find nice stores that sell limoncello that is quite good (especially cold). There is a small entrance fee, but it's well worth it.
- 4 Church of San Michele Arcangelo (In Anacapri). This church is a very nice example of baroque style on the island. Even though the church is nice by itself, the prize is the tile floor which is a mosaic depicting the expulsion of Adam & Eve from paradise, by artist Leonardo Chiaiese. You'll have to walk on wooden planks on the sides.
Capri is a place to do as little or as much as you like. The four cafes in the main square are the place to be seen in the evenings after the deluge of day trippers have left. Celebrities can occasionally be found sipping drinks there. High end shops line the streets if you feel the need for retail therapy.
- Walk Take one of the public footpaths which let you reach, for instance, the "Arco Naturale" and other beautiful sights which the large majority of tourists will only see from their boat trips around the island. Some of these paths are very steep and you need to walk up and down long stairs sometimes. The map you can buy for a small fee at the main tourist office in the harbor shows most of the footpaths. However, it is difficult to get lost on such a small island.
- Hike Nearly the entire perimeter of the island is accessible for hiking. Few people, except local fishers and hunters, take advantage of these beautiful natural trails. Several abandoned forts are found along the path and there are trails and paved descents that can take you all the way to the water's edge. This is a great way to explore the natural beauty of the island when the day tripping tourists flood the more populous regions of the island. Bring plenty of water and comfortable shoes if you do hike; you may be a long distance from the nearest road or bus stop.
- Rent a motor boat For anywhere up to 5 people per boat, you pay around €35 for two hours and drive the boat yourself - the perfect way to see the island from the sea - no schedule, you can stop wherever you please to take a swim. Enquire near to the port for the companies who provide these boats.
- Rent a motor scooter to tour the island. Gets you around much quicker than on foot, but still allows you to easily maneuver the winding roads. Beware of crazy bus drivers especially around corners! Beware as they may only allow experienced drivers to rent scooters.
- Take the chairlift ride Called the Seggiovia by locals, it goes from Anacapri up to Monte Solaro. On a clear day the views over the bay of Naples from the summit are indescribable and there are some really pretty gardens and orchards underfoot on the way up the mountain (passing over private homes). The ride takes 15 minutes each way and is a remarkably peaceful break from the tourist crowds elsewhere in Capri. You'll want at the very least 30 minutes at the top, where a restaurant and toilets are available. Round trip is €12 or €9 one way. Open daily in summer 09:30 to 17:00, last run down at 17:30, November to March last run down at 15:30. Very windy at wintertime.
- Swim, many locals swim in the Blue Grotto after 18:00 when the boats stop and in any of the other grottos around the island. Swimming is much safer however at the small beach to the left of the ticket kiosk for the furnicolare in Marina Grande or on the other side of the island at Marina Piccola (resort-like beach) or at any of the natural beaches reachable by boat. Swimming in grottos is only for experienced swimmers and is not for the faint-hearted, as tidal waves frequently close and open the openings to the grottos, and in the process, potentially injure a swimmer against the rocks when trying to enter or exit. Never do this alone, go with a local if you really feel the need to swim inside a grotto or the Blue Grotto which has a very low mouth opening.
- Marina Piccola is on the opposite end of the island from Marina Grande. You can walk, but the bus is probably easier. The Marina Piccola is a quieter area which has two beach areas where you can swim or layout on the smooth rock beach. But in July and August finding space on the pebbles is very difficult.
From April to the end of the summer, the island also comes to life from an artistic and cultural point of view. Concerts are organized almost every evening in the squares or the splendid villas built by Tiberius, as well as painting and sculpture exhibitions, plays and dance performances. This wonderful island is a destination that attracts visitors of all nationalities!
- Festival of San Costanzo On May 14 every year, the patron saint of the town of Capri, San Costanzo, is celebrated.
- Festival of Sant’Antonio On June 13 every year, the patron saint of the town of Anacapri is celebrated with a large rustic festival.
- International Folklore Festival During the 1st week of August, Anacapri plays host to a range of events in its squares, featuring musical bands and folk dance companies.
- Settembrata Anacaprese September. A large rustic festival for celebrating the grape harvest: 10 days of celebration dedicated to the island’s typical produce, including shows, competitions and games.
- Capri Film Festival Every December since 1991, Capri has hosted an international festival dedicated to the cinema. The event attracts Italian artistes, Hollywood stars and independent filmmakers keen to present their works in this exclusive location.
Arco Naturale—natural arch reachable by a beautiful hike around the southern edge of Capri.
Some restaurants, especially around the town center, can be very expensive. A good alternative: go to the local grocery store (one near the port, another in Anacapri) and make your own delicious sandwiches. (However there are few park benches and few public spaces to sit and eat on Capri.) Cafes at the harbour are particularly costly (a can of coke will cost €5, while the same thing can be bought from a food shop in the town for €1).
- Deco Supermercato, Via Matermania, 1, ☏ . open till 20:30 (not on Sunday). This is one of the few quite large and relatively cheap super market in the island.
- Buonocore Gelateria Pasticceria Gastronomia e Tavola Calda, Via Vittorio Emanuele, 35, ☏ . Very close to the 'Piazzetta', this place is plenty of very good sweets but the best is their ice cream with just done/still hot cones. Assistants speak English.
- Buca di Bacco, Via Longano, 35, ☏ . A very nice and cosy restaurant with excellent seafood pasta dishes. Not so expensive and very good food. Book in advance
- Bar Columbus, ☏ . It's in the same building that the funicular to Monte Solaro goes up (in Anacapri). The downstairs is a bar, good antipasti dishes, open daily, on Via Caposcoro.
- Donna Rachele Is a new and very good restaurant pretty close to the main square in Capri. Prices are not cheap but they are certainly worth it. They have a good wine selection and will make a nice recommendation if asked. There is also a beautiful tile mosaic on the second floor. Telephone: +39 081 8375387. Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis.
After getting off the train that goes up the hill, walk up to the square with the pillars all around, and you'll find a little drink stand. Buy a Red Orange Smoothie; they are excellent when the weather gets hot.
- Albergo La Prora, Via Castello 6-8, ✉ email@example.com. This delightful little hotel is in the oldest and most characteristic part of town about 100 m from Capri's main square (piazza). It was built in the early 19th century by a retired naval officer, who built it like the prow of a ship to remind of his nautical past, hence the name. Stunning views of the bay of Naples, its islands and the magnificent Vesuvius can be enjoyed from the terraces and windows, have breakfast looking out over the harbour and the natural beauty of Mt. Solaro, Capri's highest peak. All rooms have bathrooms; TV; telephone; safes and air conditioner. Directions: from the main square go up the church steps, under the arch to Via Madre Serafina, to Via Castello passing through the covered medieval part of the town (about 5 minutes walk).
- Hotel Casa Caprile Capri, Via Follicara 9, ☏ , fax: . Former residence of the Queen of Sweden, today the Casa Caprile is an elegant three star hotel with 20 rooms and 2 suites surrounded by several exotic plants. All the accommodation of this hotel are decorated in the Mediterranean style and offer private bath, mini bar, air condition, TV e telephone. Only some dispose of balcony or terrace.
- [dead link] Hotel della Piccola Marina Capri, Via Mulo 14/16, ☏ , fax: . A four-star hotel immersed in a green garden, which offers 43 bedrooms with balcony to enjoy the fantastic view of Capri. The guests can also use the swimming pool with bar and find lots activities do to while in holiday in this beautiful island.
- Hotel Regina Cristina Capri, Via Federico Serena 20, ☏ , fax: . A four-star hotel with a perfect position to reach by walking the beaches of Capri, and the main square (famous as piazzetta) of the town. Plus two swimming pool, one restaurant, a buffet breakfast served every morning and a snack bar for this four star accommodation
- Hotel Relais Maresca, Via Prov.le Marina Grande, 284, ☏ . On the edge of the sea at Marina Grande, a short walk from the beach and from the port.
- [dead link] Hotel Il Girasole Capri, Via Linciano, 47, ☏ , fax: . Comfortable 23 rooms for this three-star hotel in Anacapri, close the Grotta Azzurra, also offering a swimming pool with sun deck and snack bar. Due the limited number of rooms it’s worth it to reserve in advance using the online booking system.
- Hotel La Canasta, Via Campo di teste, 6. This small property, managed and owned by the D'Emilio family, features beautifully-decorated interiors and lovely relaxing outdoor areas, and offers a personalized, friendly atmosphere. La Canasta hotel is in a charming area of Capri, 5 minutes from the famous La Piazzetta square, a few steps away from Via Camerelle and a 20-minute walk from the Faraglioni beach.
- [formerly dead link] Hotel La Floridiana Capri, Via Campo di Teste 16-I, ☏ , fax: . Four-star hotel. Very close t central square of the town. Elegant public areas and bedrooms (some with whirlpool) decorated in a modern Mediterranean style, and terrace with view on the Tyrrhenian Sea.
- Hotel La Reginella Capri, Via Matermania 36, ☏ , fax: . A two-star hotel with 9 bedrooms, in twin and triple. Due its position over the hills, the Hotel Reginella also presents a fantastic panoramic view from two of its bedroom and the communal terrace. The price for a double is about €85.
- Ambassador Weber, ☏ . Four-star hotel in exclusive Marina Piccola. Private balcony. Hotel staff will shuttle you to La Piazzetta, the port, or any other location on the island. Free continental breakfastband nearby restaurants.
- Casa per Ferie Villa Helios, Via Croce, fax: . A church run former convent, with the money raised to pay for a seniors' home next door, with 24 quiet, simple rooms. Double w/bathroom €110, €30 more mid-May to September, extra bed €30, includes breakfast, family rooms, some with air conditioning, view terrace.
- Hotel Relais Maresca Capri, Via Prov. le Marina Grande 284. 4-star accommodation with quality service and a host of facilities and amenities.
- Hotel Caesar Augustus, Via G. Orlandi 4, ☏ . 5-star luxury hotel with gourmet restaurant and panoramic swimming pool overlooking the sea. Room rates from €340.
- 1 Resort Villa Bismarck, Via Palazzo a Mare 40, ☏ . It is in front of one of the most renowned restaurants in Capri, “Da Paolino”, with a 5-minute walk you can get to the beach “Da Tiberio”. A few meters from the villa there is the street that leads you to the “Piazzetta di Capri” in 15 minutes by car, while with a 5-minute walk you can reach the harbor.
- Bed & Breakfast Il Tramonto, Via Migliera 30/B Anacapri (very close to Piazza Caprese (ask the bus driver to make a stop there for you). Make sure you call when at Piazza Caprese as the street to the B&B is rather small and easy to overlook), ☏ , . Staff are courteous. Breakfast is included and abundant. There is also wireless Internet access (though not everywhere) and the views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and Ischia are very good. €80/day in the low season.
As with many other places, hike at your own risk. Cacti, prickly pears, bees, and steep slopes and edges are the primary things to be cautious of on some trails, but otherwise, hiking on Capri's trails is generally quite safe. However, be careful when walking down paths around the villas when alone, as many of the residents of the villas keep large dogs which may roam freely onto the public pathways; these dogs are not particularly friendly to foreigners of the island.
Swimming in the grottoes is only for the very experienced, as tides can easily open and close the grottoes and dash swimmers against the rocks when trying to enter or exit. Swimming alone in the grottoes is highly discouraged.
From Capri’s port there are daily ferry trips to:
- Naples (2/hour, 40 minutes, €18)
- Amalfi (mid-May–September only, 2/day hydrofoil, 1 hour, €14 or 2/day slow boat, 75 minutes, €11.50)
- Sorrento (at least hourly, fast ferry 25 minutes, €5.80 or jet boat, 20 minutes, €12)
- Praia a Mare
- Positano (mid-May to September only, 2/day fast boat, 40 minutes, €15 or 1/day slow boat, 50 minutes, €12.50)
Confirm schedule, last boats usually leave between 18:00 & 20:00