Esino Lario
Esino Lario is a mountain village in the Esino valley, between Lake Como and Valsassina in the Province of Lecco, in the Lombardy region of Italy. The village has a touristic tradition started in late nineteenth century with scientists fascinated by the karst phenomena of the Grigna mountains and searching for fossils and the almost 500 caves of Moncodeno. From this early tourism a series of hotels, restaurants and villas were built and tourism developed greatly in the Sixties and Seventies. Today Esino Lario – 12 km above Lake Como and connected to Valsassina – is a location in particular for summer mountain holiday and a starting point for excursions on the Grigna mountains and the Regional Northern Grigna Park.
The peculiarity of Esino Lario is its position in a sunny mountain basin at around 910 meters high, with a pleasant microclimate and "good air" – as the historical touristic leaflets would advertise targeting in particular families with children. The landscape is diverse, with the charming historical streets of the two centers of Esino superiore and Esino inferiore, with the high peeks of the limestone Grigna mountains (with excursions from Cainallo), with the gentle walks in the woods (with excursions from Ortanella) and with spectacular views of Lako Como from the lawn in front of San Pietro Church in Ortanella, from Passo di Narele and from the mountains (Grigne, San Defendante, Monte Croce). For its variety of landscapes, for its position in the heart of the Grigna mountains and for his sunny and pleasant position, Esino Lario is sometimes referred to as the 'Pearl of Grigna'.
Understand
History
Located in north of Italy, Esino Lario is a mountain village documented with archaeological finds since V century BC and with a territory that presents very visibile traces of the Alpine orogeny: fossils, almost 500 caves, doors, sinkholes and erratic boulders. The village was along the path of the Strada del Viandante (road wanderer), connecting the villages of the eastern shore of Lake Como; before XVIII century with the construction of the road along the lake, to travel the territory from south to north, the street would go up from Lierna to Ortanella in Esino Lario. The village was also connected to Valsassina, a large valley with a strong production of iron; Esino was part of the Squadra dei monti (team of the mountains) proving wood and charcoal for the iron industry.
Climate
Esino Lario, like most of Valsassina, features a humid temperate climate, cooler than in the Po Valley due to the higher elevations. In Barzio, the nearest weather station (elevation 770 m/2,500 ft. - Esino Lario has an elevation of about 100 meters higher), mean annual temperature is around 10°C/50°F (compare, for example, with around 13°C/55°F in Milan). Precipitation is abundant, with more than 1,700 mm (55 inches) falling in an average year. Rainfall are frequent in every season, with a little minimum in winter when there can be snowfall. As in most of temperate climates, there are prolonged and well-defined intermediate seasons.
Summers are moderate, with frequent rain showers and thunderstorms. Mean summer temperature is around 19°C (66°F), higher in July and August, and slightly lower in June; even during the most intense heat waves, anyway, maximum temperatures very rarely exceed 32°C (90°F). Winters are quite mild; the average temperature for December, January and February is around 1-2°C (34-35°F), more or less the same temperature recorded in the Po Valley at much lower elevations. This is due to the phenomenon of inversion (a deviation from the normal atmospheric behavior, where temperature increases with elevation) frequently observed in midwinter when subtropical high-pressure systems reach northern Italy. Anyway, winters can become snowy, as extratropical cyclones carry moist and cool air from North Atlantic.
Get in
Esino Lario is in the north of Italy, in the Province of Lecco in Lombardy Region, between Lake Como and Valsassina. The major city near Esino Lario is Milan, and Esino is located 12 km (900 m in altitude) above Varenna. In Esino there is of course no airport, and to reach the village you can use cars, busses, taxis, bikes or you get get there by foot. To reach Esino Lario there are two provincial streets: one from Varenna and one from Bellano-Parlasco (Strada della Valsassina).
- Varenna-Esino. The street from Varenna to Esino is the shortest; it passes through Perledo and for a large portion of the street you go up the mountains looking at the lake; the street is pretty narrow and with quite a few hairpin turns. Coming by train (from Milan, Bergamo, Lecco, Valtellina, Valchiavenna, Switzerland) or by boat from other villages of Lake Como, of course this is the most suitable and direct street. A regular bus line connects the railway station called Varenna Esino to Esino Lario with bussed with up to 35 seats. It is not unusual to cross excursionists with mountain bikes on the way to Esino.
- Parlasco-Esino. The street from Bellano-Parlasco (Strada della Valsassina) connects Esino to Valsassina. The street is also a good option if you are coming by car or by private bus from Milan, Bergamo, Lecco, Valtellina, Valchiavenna and Switzerland; from the superstrada you can get off in Bellano and follow for Valsassina, Parlasco and Esino Lario; this option is a little longer than Varenna-Esino but the street is larger, with less hairpin turns and traffic in the summer and during weekends, and with a spectacular view of Lake Como and Esino Lario at Sasso di Narele. Also excursionists with mountain bikes appreciate this way to Esino.
By plane
The most convenient airports to plan your trip to Esino Lario are Milano Malpensa (MXP), Milano Linate (LIN) and Milano-Bergamo Orio al Serio (BGY). There are quite a few low cost flights in particular from Italy and Europe; have a look also at Mediana airlines for low cost flights from Africa.
By train
The nearest railway station is Varenna Esino, actually located in the territory of Perledo and at a very short walking distance from Varenna boat station and Varenna centre. In the station arrive trains from the line Milan, Lecco (connected to the line to Bergamo), Colico (connected to the line to Valchiavenna), Morbegno, Sondrio and Tirano (Valtellina). From the railway station of Milan (Milan stazione centrale - central station for direct trains and Milano Porta Garibaldi for regional trains) to the station Varenna Esino it takes 1 hour and 5 minutes. From the railway station there is a public bus service to Esino Lario; busses are not available for every train, but when available they wait for the train.
By bus
There is a public bus line connecting Esino Lario to Perledo, Varenna and Bellano. In Varenna the bus stops at the railway station Varenna Esino. The service is meant for school students (from Esino to the railway station Varenna Esino and to Bellano where there is the secondary school) and commuters (from Esino to the railway station Varenna Esino) and the schedule is accordingly designed. The bus timeline reports 40 minutes from the station Varenna Esino to Esino Lario. In Esino Lario there are two main bus stops in Piazza Gulfi and Piazza Italia; during the summer the bus makes a stop also in Ortanella and during winter the bus makes some other stops in the village to collect students.
By car
- From Milan (80 km, around 1 hour 45 or 2 hours) and from Lecco (35 km, around 50 minutes - 1 hour). Take the SS36 Spluga (superstrada) in the direction of Sondrio.
- Exit Abbadia Lariana - passing through Varenna. After Lecco, take the exit Abbadia Lariana (Lago SP72), continue throguh Mandello, Olcio, Lierna and Fiumelatte. Once you arrive in Varenna, pass through the village and follow the direction for Esino Lario (right). The street (panoramic) passes through Perledo and reaches Esino Lario.
- Exit Bellano - passing through Parlasco (panoramic street).
- Exit Valsassina - passing through Cortenova and Parlasco.
- From Colico on Lake Como (40 km, 50 minutes). Take the SP72 along the Lake in the direction of Lecco. Once you arrive in Varenna follow the direction towards the centre and follow for Esino Lario (right, before entering the centre).
- From Varenna on Lake Como (12 km – 20 minutes) follow the direction for Esino Lario; the street for Esino Lario is in front of the street for the boat station and towards the railway station Varenna Esino and Perledo.
- From Barzio in Valsassina (30 km – 40 minutes). Take the SP62; in Cortenova turn on the SP65 towards Parlasco and follow the direction for Esino Lario.
- From Lugano in Ticino, Switzerland. Take the street to Porlezza and Menaggio. In Menaggio you can take the street along the Lake to Varenna (passing through Gravedona and Colico) or you can take a boat with transport of car to Varenna. Follow the directions from Varenna to Esino Lario.
By taxi
There are no taxi companies in Esino Lario; taxi can be found in Varenna and Perledo and at the Varenna Esino station. A ride by taxi to Esino Lario from Varenna Esino station is around 30 €.
- Vittorio Ongania Auto Pubblica Taxi, Piazza della Stazione a Perledo, ☏ +39 0341 830106.
- Ruggero Maglia Servizio Taxi, Via Statale 45 a Varenna, ☏ +39 0341 830580.
- Enrico Faggi Servizio Taxi, Via Per Esino 81 a Perledo, ☏ +39 0341 830269.
By boat
From Varenna it is possible to navigate on Lake Como to many destinations, among which Abbadia Lariana, Argegno, Bellagio, Bellano, Careno, Cernobbio, Colico, Como, Gravedona, Isola Comacina, Lecco, Mandello, Menaggio, Piona, Pognana, Torno and Tremezzo. The ferry-boats between Varenna, Menaggio, Bellagio and Cadenabbia allow the transport of both cars and buses. Fast rides are more expensive than regular transport. Boat rides are also a beautiful and cheap way to enjoy sightseeing on Lake Como. Time and frequency of boats on Lake Como on navigazionelaghi website.
| From | Time | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Menaggio | 15 minutes (7 minutes for passengers only - fast transport, more expensive) | 4.60€ one-way; 15€ one day. Car+driver: 8.60€-14.40€, depending on car size. |
| Bellagio | 15 minutes | 4.60€ one-way; 15€ one day. Car+driver: 8.60€-14.40€, depending on car size. |
Get around
The best way to get around Esino Lario is by foot, even if the majority of the inhabitants certainly prefer to use their cars. The taxonomy of the territory is extremely detailed; there are names not only for groups of houses (localities) but also for small areas of the forest; the detailed naming of the forest is due to the fact that the forest of Esino Lario is owned by the city council and assigned to the inhabitants making necessary to identify precisely every single slot of it.
By foot
Walking around the centre is pretty simple and there are signs for the main landmarks. Walking in the mountains can get more complicated. Trails are indicated by numbers and codified by the CAI, the Italian national mountain organization; below the main trails of the territory, so when you see the number you know where it will take you.
- 21 - Cainallo-Ortanella, Cainallo, Natre, Boldasca, Costa da Bus, Alpe di Esino, Ortanella. This is the trails which connects Cainallo to Ortanella.
- 21 A Esino-Cainallo, Esino Lario, Rogo, Ristorante Santa Maria, Rifugio Cainallo. This is the old trail from Esino Lario to Cainallo. It is a large trail – a muletrack – which can be can be covered with a stroller.
- 21 B Esino-Alpe, Esino Lario, Costa da Bus, Alpe di Esino, Alpe di Lierna, Bocchetta di Calivazzo. This is a quite large trail – a muletrack – which goes up to the pastures of Esino and Lierna; in the pasture of Lierna they still produce cheese. The trail is quite convenient for children and it has a limited slope and passes through quite charming woods.
- 21 C Esino-Ortanella-Sentiero del Viandante, Esino Lario, Ortanella, Chiesetta di San Pietro. Sentiero del Viandante sull'antica via romana: Lierna, Brentalone, Ortanella, Vezio, Chiesetta di San Pietro, Alpe di Esino, Alpe di Lierna, Bocchetta di Calivazzo.
- 21 D Esino-Natre, Esino, San Grato, Busagna, Natre di sopra (Fontana della Zaina).
- 22 Cainallo-Agueglio-Bellano, Rifugio Cainallo, Pizzi di Parlasco, Agueglio, Portone, Bellano.
- 22 A Esino-Agueglio-San Defendente, Esino, Buss, Agueglio, San Defendente, Albiga. E sino ad Agueglio e poi F. Variante dopo Buss alla Cross da Mal per Narele E.
- 22 B Agueglio-Parlasco, Agueglio, Parlasco.
- 22 C Esino-Sciorcasella, Esino, La Torre, Sciorcasella, Cavedo. This is a quite large trail – a muletrack – which goes up to Sciorcasella. The conditions of the trails are not always perfect and in case of rain it can be awash.
- 23 Monte Pilastro, Vo' di Moncodeno, Monte Pilastro.
- 23 A Monte Croce, Variante dal Sorel al Baiphonelo dell'Amicizia del Monte Croce.
- 23 B Monte Croce, Monte Croce, Canova, Pra di Orscelera, Vo' di Moncodeno.
- 23 C Monte Croce, Cosa da Bus, Cagnolo, Pass di strecc Sentiero del selvatico, Fontana di Rosee, Grassello, Monte Croce.
- 23 D (Pass di Strecc, Canova Sentiero dei Portecch).
- 24 Rifugio Bietti, Rifugio Cainallo, Rifugio Bietti.
- 25 Rifugio Bodani and Grignone, Rifugio Cainallo, Rifugio Bogani, Grignone.
- 36 Rifugio Riva, Bogani, Gregai, Zapel, Passo Stanga, Rifugio Riva.
- 36 A Zapel, Zapel, Primaluna.
- 37 Rifugio Bogani-Brioschi, Rifugio Bogani, Rifugio Brioschi, per il Nevaio.
- 38 Palone, Rifugio Bogani, Palone, Vallori.
By bike
There is only one bike you can use in Esino Lario and it is a mountain bike. The local mountain community and the Northern Grigna Regional Park have developed a map of bike roads and trails.
- Anello Conca di Esino. 20 km with 400 m altimetric excursion. Long, mildly challenging and on dirt roads, muletracks and through pastures.
- Anello del Monte Fopp. 27 km with 900 m altimetric excursion.
By car
The village has few major roads and a wide amount of little roads you need to be a very wise driver to use (or at least try them only with a very small car). To reach Ortanella and Cainallo a car can be convenient; Ortanella and Cainallo (specifically Vo' di Moncodeno) are the starting point for many excursions. Some mountain streets are classified "agro-silva-pastorali" (roads agro-silva-pastoral) and they can be used by cars only with an authorization.
By bus
Buses coming from Varenna make two regular stops in Esino Lario (Piazza Gulfi and Piazza Italia). During summer the bus also reachers Ortanella, and during winter some further stops allow to pick up and drop off children to and from school. To move around the public bus is normally used only to reach Ortanella; occasionally during summer there have been a bus to Cainallo organized by the city council.
See
Even if it is a small village, the territory of Esino Lario is quite extended with a surface of 18.7 km2 (7.2 sq mi) and an elevation which goes from 554 m to 2'409 m (1.855 m of altimetric excursion). A convenient way to visit and enjoy the territory is to browse it by area and through itineraries. You can visit the historical centres (with old buildings, churches, doors, washes and narrow alleys), the sculptures of Michele Vedani in the via Crucis and the main church of San Vittore, and the areas of Ortanella and Cainallo, which are departure points for further walks.
- Esino superiore (upper area). This is one of the two centers of Esino; Esino was in fact composed of two separate villages (Esino Superiore and Esino Inferiore) since 1927, each village had its own church and there was a common church in the so-called "Castello" (the castle). Esino superiore still has its own historical centre of characteristic houses all built close to each other with narrow allays and staircases passing through. Compared to Esino Inferiore it is much more inhabited all year round. It is worthwhile to pass through the small Church of Sant'Antonio Abate and Piazza Caprera. It is also nice to pass through the small street of Via Cainallo to look from above at the village and at the numerous villas of Villaggio Riva. The best period to visit Esino superiore is in January during the celebration of Sant'Antonio Abate (Anthony the Great) when all restaurants and residents prepare the local ravioli pàtole and the children climb the tower of the small church to ring the bells by moving by hands their clappers; the older children teach the younger the melody and – by working in team and sharing the tasks – they compose a series of melodies. In the summer a party is regularly organized in Esino Superiore with food sellers in the street and some ballroom dancing. From Piazza Caprera in Esino superiore departs the trail to Agueglio and from via Cainallo the streets continues in the trail to Gromeduccio and Cainallo.
- Esino interiore (lower area). This is the other centre of Esino. Esino Inferiore is mainly inhabited during the summer and the houses are often holiday homes nicely restored. The small Church of San Giovanni with its square are a nice spot surrounded by a dense network of homes. It is worth to have a look at the doors, porches and balconies of the oldest mountain houses. From Esino Inferiore departs the trail to Bigallo and Ortanella.
- Ortanella, Ortanella (Outside the centre). A subdivision of Esino at around 10 minutes by car or 1 hour by foot from the centre. Ortanella has a soft landscape with easy walks, trails in the woods, many picnic equipped areas and some impressive belvedere on the entire Lake Como up. Visiting the little church of San Pietro in Ortanella is a very charming walk and it offers a quite incredible view of the lake, allowing to see both shores, from Lierna and Isola Comacina to Colico, Bellagio, Lago del Piano toward Switzerland and of course all the mountains around. Ortanella a pond with a playground for children, the Percorso vita (fitness trail) and a series of signs to explain the flora and fauna of the area. In August Ortanella hosts some local events and barbecues and it is the departure point for excursion on the Monte Fopp and towards the Sentiero del viandante.
- Cainallo, Cainallo (Outside the centre). A locality of Esino at around 15 minutes by car or 1 hour by foot from the centre. The landscape in Cainallo is fully alpine with a view of the rugged rocks of Grigna mountains. Cainallo has a small pond, a playground, a small church (built by the Gilera Family), equipped picnic areas and it is a small ski resort. Just above in Vo' di Moncodeno in Cainallo (reachable by car in 5 minutes) start a large variety of trails and excursions to the Grigna mountains and its mountains shelters. Cainallo is also a pasture and it is to see cows and horses grazing in the grass during the summer time. It is also possible to assist to the production of milk and cheese. The Rifugio Cainallo – just right when you arrive in Cainallo – is a good place for a meal and it is also an hotel.
Landscape
Belvedere
Natural landmarks
Architecture
- 5 Chiesa sussidiaria di S. Antonio Abate in Esino Superiore.
- 6 Chiesa sussidiaria di S. Giovanni Battista in Esino Inferiore.
- 7 Oratorio di San Nicolao e Sacrario dei caduti. A church which become in 1979 a military memorial (sacrario militare).
- 8 Via Crucis di Michele Vedani, via don Giovanni Battista Rocca.
- 9 Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Vittore Martire sul Castello, via Parrocchiale 10, ☏ +39 0341 860158. It is the main church of Esino Lario dedicated to San Victor and mentioned in a document already in XIII. The wooden sacristy deserves a visit. The church also hosts two tapestries with religious subject of the School of tapestries of Esino Lario which was active between the anni Thirties and Sixties and won several gold medals at the Triennale di Milano on artworks based on original sketches by contemporary artists.
- 10 Villa Gilera, via alle Grigne 2.
- 11 Villa Luzzani, via 25 aprile.
- 12 Villaggio Riva.
- 13 Torre di Esino, Trail 22 C Esino-Sciorcasella. The ruins of the Esino Lario tower are visible from the centre and you can pass closed-by through the trail 22 C. It is one of the sighting towers used as the fortification system of the territory. The tower belongs to a private owner and it is in pretty bad conditions.
Museums
- 14 Museo delle Grigne, Piazza Pietro Pensa (currently under transfer); new building via Montefiori 19. By appointment. The local museum Museo delle Grigne has a collection of archeology and paleontology. The museum preserves some of the rich archeological finds of the territory and it has a large collection of fossils of the Grigna mountains. The museum also presents a small demo-ethno-antrhopological collection. In 2014-2015 the museum is currently under reinstatement; the museum will be located in 2015 in a new building in the garden of Villa Clotilde with a renewed design. The archeological session will be further developed, few pieces of the paleontological collection will be highlighted in a more contextualized installation and a floor of the museum will be devoted to the relationship between man and the mountain (the topic at the centre of the Ecomuseo delle Grigne) with the demo-ethno-antrhopological collection and the contemporary art collection. Free, a donation is always welcome.
- 15 Villa Clotile (Museo delle Grigne, Ecomuseo delle Grigne, Archivio Pietro Pensa) (The collections of Villa Clotilde), via Montefiori 19, ☏ +39 334 1581114. During the opening hours of Villa Clotilde; in general Saturday and Sunday mornings and during holidays. Villa Clotilde hosts some of the collections of the museum: the collection of coleoptera of the Grigna mountains, the collection of Italian butterflies, and some stuffed animals. The most fascinating aspect of these collections is that they have been installed by the artist Roberto Paci Dalò in the sound installation titled Animagus; visitors are encouraged to browse the collections located at the second floor with a small torch immerse in a forest of sounds. The Villa is also the location of the Ecomuseo delle Grigne (the local ecomuseum), and of the Pietro Pensa Archive (the archive is protected and it can not be visited but the specialized library is open for consultation). In the garden of Villa Clotilde are located some old grinders. Free, a donation is always welcome.
Do
Esino Lario is the perfect location for open-air actives, sports and for excursions. When it rains the best option is to enjoy a meal in a restaurant.
Sport
- 1 Bocce (bowls). July and August. Outdoor. Free.
- 2 Sport hall - soccer for 7. Always accessible. Outdoor. The structure is managed by the volunteers of the association Polisportiva. Free.
- 3 Sport hall - soccer for 5, ☏ +39 334 1581114. Outdoor and indoor. The structure is managed by the volunteers of the association Polisportiva. Registration fee.
- 4 Sport hall - tennis, ☏ +39 334 1581114. Outdoor and indoor. The structure is managed by the volunteers of the association Polisportiva. Registration fee.
- 5 Fitness trail (percorso vita), Ortanella. Always accessible. Six different exercises (very easy, easy, middle-rande, middle-range/challenging, challenging and very challenging) which can be done with the use of a series of simple fitness tools distributed in an itinerary of 2 km (16 stops) in the woods of Ortanella. Free.
- 6 Ski, Cainallo, ☏ +39 0341 860050. 9am-4pm, weekends and holidays. Cainallo used to be a significant ski resort but since the Nineties the skiing is limited to one skylight, one taps round and three slopes: basically it is a good place to try the sky on for beginners and children. The skiing is managed by the non profit organization Esino 2000 Onlus and its volunteers; it is possible to rent the equipment. Skipass for the season 17 € adults and 13 € children.
- Mountain bike. Free.
- Caving (speleology). The Moncodeno is a very well-known area for caving. There are frequent speleology research on the almost 500 caves of the territory (in an area of less than 2 km2) and they use Rifugio Bogani as a base camp.
- Climbing. In Esino there is a climbing wall outside the sport hall. The Grigna mountains present quite a few climbing routes all departing from Cainallo: Pilastro di Prada Via della libertà (6a, 5b, 130 m altimetric excursion), Pilastro di Prada Via CAI Vedano (5c, 4, 150 m altimetric excursion), Falesia dei Lares (6a/8a, 50 m altimetric excursion), Cainallo Animal House (6c+, 8b+, 40 m altimetric excursion), Grigna Settentrionale Sasso Cavallo / Parete sud Via Ludo Mentis (7b, 400 m altimetric excursion), Esino (5b/8b, 20 m altimetric excursion), Parete di Piancaformia (La Belle Epoque, 6c, 180 m; Libertà controllata, 170 m; Arma letale, 6b, 130 m), Cima di Sengg (6b, 300 m altimetric excursion; via Ginsengg), Sasso Cavallo ( Febbre da cavallo (6a/7b, 250 m altimetric excursion). Free.
- Snowshoeing. An winter outdoor sport which can be practiced in Cainallo and Ortanella. Every year an evening snowshoeing walk is organized in Cainallo by the local associations. Free.
- Birdwatching. The territory is suitable for birdwatching. Birds of prey (rapaci): buzzard (poiana), kestrel (gheppio), hawk (sparviero) and black kite (nibbio bruno); woodpeckers and sparrows. Free.
- Mountain running. Since 2014 Esino Lario organizes a mountain running contest called sky race (March) Free.
Excursions
- 1 Vo' di Moncodeno (Cainallo). It is the starting point of a large number of excursions in the Grigna mountains. At Vo' di Moncodeno you can park your car but remember that you need to pay 2 euro per day for the parking (you can buy the parking cards in Esino Lario). 2€.
- Monte Croce, Trail 23. It is an excursion from Vo' di Moncodeno and reachable in 45 minutes. The walk is pretty steep but it is manageable by children (from 4-5 years old and it will take around 1 hour and a half or two hours) The mountain shelter Baitello dell'Amicizia (1740) is just below the peak where is located a cross (Monte Croce means mountain cross, 1780 m); both from the cross and the shelter there is a great view on Lake Como. The first Sunday of July takes place the "Festa del Monte Croce" (the annual celebration of the mountain, the construction of the shelter and the Alpini).
Activities with and for children
There are many excursions which are suitable for children. There are playgrounds located in the centre, in Ortanella and Cainallo. Below a list of playgrounds and you can find in the description of the excursions hints for the most suitable itineraries for children. Esino Lario received in 2010 the prize LavoroFamiglia (WorkFamily) of Lombardy Regione and the Catholic University for its children-friendly territory. You can find indicated with a sticker on shops and restaurants the services for children (high chair, changing, warmer) and all restaurants and children menu (specifically designed or simply offering half portions and children-size pizza).
- 7 Playground Giovannimaria Pensa, Via Montefiori 19 (Centre - upper area). There are no toilets; Villa Clotilde which is in the same garden has toilets (accessible during its opening hours, essentially in week-ends in the morning) and there is the bar restaurant 58 near-by. free.
- 8 Playground viale della Chiesa, Viale della Chiesa (Centre). There are no toilets but the bars and restaurants Oasi and Montanina are near-by. free.
- 9 Playground Cainallo, Cainallo (Outside the centre). There are no toilets but the bar restaurant Rifugio Cainallo is near-by and there is a quite a lot of green space around. free.
- 10 Playground Ortanella, Ortanella (Outside the centre). There are no toilets but the bar restaurant Cacciatori is near-by and there is a quite a lot of green space around. free.
Every year there are some activities and childcare organized in Esino Lario during the summer.
- Sport Summer Camp. June-July, 9am - 5pm. It is a week of sports for children who can test and try a wide variety of different sports (volleyball, soccer, archery, handball, judo, karate, badminton, hockey on the grass, climbing, basket, baseball, athletics...). The camp is for 5-12 years-old children and it is organized in two rounds. Registration fee.
- Green Week (settimana verde). July-August, 9am - 6pm. It is a week of activities for children organized by the Northern Grigna Regional Park. It includes visits, excursions and laboratories and every day focuses on a specific topic (flora with the identification of plants and the production of small herbarium, fauna with the identification of animal traces, the work of speleologists, the production of milk and cheese...). Since 2014 they organize 2 weeks: 1 week devoted to smaller children (5-10) and 1 week for older children (which includes also a sleep over in a pasture). Registration fee.
- 11 Summer Kindergarten (scuola dell'infanzia), Via Agueglio 6, ☏ +39 0341 860184. July, 8am-13.45pm. The local Kindergarten is managed by a non profit association and – according to the availability of places – it is possible to enroll children between 18 months (they need to be able to walk) up to 5 years-old for the summer activities in July; also non residents can access to the service. During July the Kindergarten has a light program of activities and it is basically a game room; it also provides lunch. Registration fee.
- 12 Oratorio estivo (summer oratory), Via Agueglio 6, ☏ +39 0341 860158. June-July, 2pm-5pm. As in many Italian towns, there are summer activities organized by the oratory (managed by the parish and involving volunteers). Essentially children of primary school (6-11 years old) do their summer homework and they are engaged in some games and team games.
Buy
Esino Lario is definitely not a shopping centre but there are some shops for your needs (food, cigarettes, newspaper, toys for children, cloths, little presents, tools...) and where you can find some regional food specialities and little presents and souvenirs. The nearest shopping mall is Fuentes in Colico or the shops in Lecco.
- 1 Edicola Paganin Rossella, Via Adamello (Centre), ☏ +39 0341 860092. Newspapers, magazines, toys, books, little presents.
- 2 Market Pina e Mohammed, Via San Michele (Centre - upper area), ☏ +39 0341 860010. Tools, plants, sheets... It is a bazaar indeed.
- 3 Il negozietto di Velentina, Via Adamello 31 (Centre - lower area), ☏ +39 339 8220400. Cloths for adults and children.
- 4 Bar Tabaccheria Lisa, Via Adamello (Centre - lower area), ☏ +39 0341 860202. A bar selling also cigarettes, small presents and toys.
- 5 Bar La Sosta, Via Adamello 13 (Centre - lower area), ☏ +39 0341 860004. A bar selling also cigarettes.
- 6 Panificio Pensa Pietro, Piazza Italia (Centre - upper area), ☏ +39 0341 860366. It is a little supermarket and it has great bakery products (which is their speciality); in particular local biscuits and a unique bread they call "la ciambella" which is a huge thin bun almost 1 meter large which is sold in pieces and distributed also in several other bakeries in the territory outside Esino.
- 7 Frutta e verdura – Gelateria di Elisabetta Maglia, via Leonardo Da Vinci (Centre - upper area), ☏ +39 0341 860215. Fresh fruits and vegetables, and artisanal gelato. The have also some candies, jams, and pre-prepared vegetables.
- 8 Alimentari Virginia, Via XXV Aprile 21 (Centre - upper area), ☏ +39 0341 860255. A small shop with a variety of products, bread, affettato, some meat and packaged products.
- 9 Mini Market Chicco & Nadia, Via Verdi (Centre - lower area), ☏ +39 338 1044517. A small shop with a variety of products, bread, affettato, some meat and packaged products.
It is probably also useful to know that there are two banks.
- 10 Deutsche Bank - Banca Popolare di Lecco, via XXV Aprile, 16 (Centre - upper area).
- 11 Banca Popolare di Sondrio, Piazzale Gulfi, 2 (Centre - lower area), ☏ +39 0341 86081, fax: 0341860169.
Eat
The traditional local cuisine is a simple mountain cuisine, based essentially on polenta, potatoes, dairy products, nuts and pork meat, with some specialities such as the ravioli called patole or the simple dessert called "paradell". More broadly the traditional cuisine of Lake Como, Valsassina and Valtellina includes specialities such as fish from the lake (i.e. lavarelli - whitefish, pesce persico - perch) on a white risotto, pizzoccheri and grilled pork (ribs and sausages). The local cuisine is today always mixed with Italian cuisine coming from different regions and which can satisfy also vegetarian and vegan diets and include meat dishes which do not include pork.
Budget
- 1 Area pic-nic Cainallo, Località Cainallo (Outside the center - Cainallo). Please remember that it is prohibited to light fires outside picnic areas. Eventually you can ask specific authorizations to the city council. free.
- 2 Area pic-nic Ortanella, Località Ortanella (Outside the center - Ortanella). Please remember that it is prohibited to light fires outside picnic areas. Eventually you can ask specific authorizations to the city council. free.
- 3 Bar La Sosta, Via Adamello 13 (Center - lower area), ☏ +39 0341 860004. A sandwich bar, quite large and a good place also for aperitifs. Budget.
- 4 Bar Tabaccheria Lisa, Via Adamello (Center - lower area), ☏ +39 0341 860202. A place for a sandwich. It is a small bar with a counter and few tables. Budget.
- 5 Gelateria da Eli, Via Da Vinci (Center - upper area), ☏ +39 0341 860215. A place for artisanal gelato. It has some benches outside to sit. Budget.
Mid-range
- 6 Albergo Ristorante Centrale, Via Solferino 11 (Center - upper area), ☏ +39 0341 860004. A quite large restaurant used also for weddings. Italian cuisine with regional specialities, it also serves pizza not every day. Mid-range.
- 7 Bar Pizzeria Ristorante 58, Via Montefiori 35 (Center - upper area), ☏ +39 392 1317085, +39 338 2795142. New management in July 2014. Modern, with around 60 seats inside and a terrace. Italian cuisine with regional specialities, it also serves pizza not every day. The menu has some interesting receipts designed with a contemporary interpretation of traditional ingredients, like the Spaghetti con misultin. Mid-range.
- 8 Bar Pizzeria Oasi (Center - lower area), ☏ +39 393 7914158. Renovated and reopened in 2014. Mainly a pizzeria with also some pasta dishes and sandwiches. Mid-range.
- 9 Albergo Ristorante La Montanina, Via Adamello 5 (Center), ☏ +39 0341 860111. A large restaurant used also for weddings. Italian cuisine with regional specialities. Mid-range.
- 10 Albergo Ristorante La Lucciola, Via al Castagneto 22 (Outside the center - Towards Cainallo), ☏ +39 0341 860200. Italian cuisine with some regional specialities. Mid-range.
- 11 Albergo Ristorante Santa Maria, Via Cainallo 20 (Outside the center - Towards Cainallo, Gromeduccio), ☏ +39 0341 860376. Open in July and August. You can eat inside and outside. It is really perfect for children; it has a large green space around, a small park for children with a slide and swings, and a "campo di bocce" (bowling green). It is also the perfect stop for an excursion, since the restaurants is nicely connected to Esino with pedestrian paths which is manageable even with strollers (the local Kindergarten organizes its summer lunch there with children, families and strollers, and it takes around 1 hour for 3 year-old children to get there by foot from the village). Mid-range.
- 12 Albergo Ristorante Rifugio Cainallo, Cainallo (Outside the center - Cainallo), ☏ +39 0341 860131. A quite large restaurant used also for weddings. Regional cuisine with meat and polenta as a specialty. Mid-range.
- 13 Albergo Cacciatori, Località Ortanella (Outside the center - Ortanella), ☏ +39 0341 860219. A large restaurant used also for weddings. Italian cuisine with regional specialities, in particular game. Mid-range.
- 14 Agriturismo Ortanella, Località Ortanella (Outside the center - Ortanella), ☏ +39 333 4689885. Regional cuisine and local ingredients. Mid-range.
- 15 Rifugio Bogani (former Capanna Monza), Grigna Settentrionale (In the Grigna mountains, reachable only by foot), ☏ +39 368 3527021. Regional cuisine and simple mountain recipes with meat and polenta. Nice cheese from the near-by pasture of Moncodeno and good cakes, speciality of the chef. Mid-range.
- 16 Rifugio Bietti, Grigna Settentrionale (comune di Mandello del Lario) (In the Grigna mountains, reachable only by foot). Regional cuisine and simple mountain recipes with meat and polenta. Mid-range.
- 17 Rifugio Brioschi, Grigna Settentrionale (comune di Pasturo) (In the Grigna mountains, reachable only by foot), ☏ +39 0341 910498. Regional cuisine and simple mountain recipes with meat and polenta. Mid-range.
- 18 Albergo Ristorante Rosa delle Alpi, Via Adamello 5 (Centre), ☏ +39 0341 860111. The restaurant is often closed. Around 50 €.
Drink
The coolest place to have a beer is definitely a mountain shelter, but if you can't be asked to walk up there, you can find other solutions for an appetitive or a drink. Have a look at the eating places; in all of them it is possible to have an aperitif (a drink between 6pm and 8 pm with some chips and snacks included in the cost of the drink; in some places – like the bar 58, Oasi, La Sosta – you can get a quite luxurious amount of food with focaccia, canapés and little sandwiches) and an evening beer. Gardens and terraces can also be a good criteria to select you spot.
Sleep
Esino Lario does not have very luxurious solutions for sleeping; the hotel with most numerous stars is Rosa delle Alpi with 3 out of 5. To decide where to sleep it is probably more important to select where you want to stay and if you prefer an accommodation right in the middle of the village (centre), in the areas of Cainallo and Ortanella (at 10-15 minutes car-ride, around 1 hour from the centre by foot, and immerse in nature) or right in the middle of the mountains in a shelter you can only reach by foot. To sleep in the mountains there are different solutions: mountain shelters managed with rooms and restaurants, or mountain shelters which are owned by city councils and which can provide a simple shelter. Camping is authorized in designated areas (or you need to ask the authorization to the city council).
Budget
There are many flats available for renting. The city council through its tourist office facilitates information about priviate apartments and houses for rent.
- 1 Free camping in Ortanella, Ortanella, in the direction of Prato San Pietro (Follow the street to Ortanella and turn right in the direction of San Pietro). The camping area is indicated with signs; it is not equipped but it has a fountain at a very short distance and there are picnic areas and the Percorso vita around. free.
- 2 Baitello dell'Alpe, Alpe di Esino Lario, ☏ +39 0341 860272. A mountain shelter build by the CAI Val d'Esino. 18 bunk beds.
- 3 Baitello dell'Amicizia, Monte Croce. A mountain shelter built and managed by ANA Esino Lario.
- Baitello di Casis. A mountain shelter built and managed by CAI Val d'Esino.
- 4 Rifugio Bogani (Capanna Monza), Grigna Settentrionale, ☏ +39 368 3527021. Managed mountain shelter with beds and restaurant. Around 50 bunk beds. Members of CAI 10 € for the bed, 40 € dinner, bed and breakfast; Non members of CAI 20 € bed, 50 € dinner, bed and breakfast.
- 5 Rifugio Bietti, Grigna Settentrionale (city council of Mandello del Lario). Managed mountain shelter with beds and restaurant.
- 6 Rifugio Brioschi, Grigna Settentrionale (city council of Pasturo), ☏ +39 0341 910498. Managed mountain shelter with beds and restaurant.
- 7 Scout house - former Ristoro (Outside the centre - in Bigallo). It is a dorm managed by the Scouts and it can be rented or used for specific events. It has 55 beds, 4 bathrooms inside the building, 1 bathroom outside the building. The dorm is a simple and clean accommodation with kitchen, 2 large living rooms and a garden providing also the possibility of camping.
- 8 Villa Rogo (Outside the centre - towards Cainallo). It is a dorm-like accommodation owned by PIME, the Pontificio Istituto Missioni Estere (Pontifical Institute for Foreign Missions) and it can be rented or used for specific events. It has 70 beds and it is at about 20 minutes walk from the centre (also with nice trails).
- 9 Rainbow House, Via Montefiori 7 (Centre - upper area), ☏ +39 0341 860054, 7rainbowhouse@gmail.com. 2 apartments (7 beds and 5 beds) with 2 rooms each, living room, kitchen and bathroom. 30 € - 40 € per person, discounts for couples, families and longer stays.
Mid-range
- 10 Agriturismo Ortanella, Ortanella (Outside the centre in Ortanella), ☏ +39 333 4689885.
- 11 Albergo Ristorante Centrale, Via Solferino 11 (Centre - upper area), ☏ +39 0341 860004. 2 stars hotel. 16 rooms, 24 beds. 35 €.
- 12 Albergo Ristorante La Lucciola, Via al Castagneto (Outside the centre in the direction of Cainallo), ☏ +39 0341 860200. An hotel above the village, with a wide view on Esino Lario and the mountains. 13 rooms, 20 beds. 38 €.
- 13 Albergo Ristorante Santa Maria, Via Cainallo 20 (Outside the centre in the direction of Cainallo, towards Gromeduccio), ☏ +39 0341 860376. An charming hotel immerse in nature. 7 rooms, 19 beds. 35 €.
- 14 Albergo Ristorante Rifugio Cainallo, Cainallo (Outside the centre in Cainallo), ☏ +39 0341 860131. 23 rooms, 39 beds. 30 €.
- 15 Albergo Ristorante La Montanina, Via Adamello 5 (Centre), ☏ +39 0341 860111. The historical hotel of Esino Lario, built with the first tourism and used by scientists visiting the mountains. A simple accommodation in a charming building. 2 stars hotel, 47 rooms, 75 beds. 45 €.
- 16 Albergo Ristorante Rosa delle Alpi, Via Adamello 5 (Centre), ☏ +39 0341 860111. 3 stars hotel. The highest level of hotel in Esino Lario in an historical villa and with services for people with disabilities. 15 rooms, 25 beds. 50 €.
- 17 Albergo Ristorante Cacciatori, Ortanella (Outside the centre in Ortanella), ☏ +39 0341 860219. 5 rooms. 70 €.
Stay safe
Esino Lario is a very safe location with an extremely low crime rate, and with a system to manage medical assistance and emergencies.
Widelife
It is important to bear in mind dangers associated to mountain excursions, trekking, claiming and alpinism and to know the normal safety measures and the principals of environmental education. It is prohibited to light fires outside prone areas and you are always requested to put out fire with care, and to do not leave abandoned garbage.
To visit the Ghiacciaia del Moncodeno (the famous cave of Moncodeno) is necessary to have a guide and the visit is organized with helmets, harnesses and a head torch. The same safety procedures should be used to visit any cave.
Trails and muleteers maintenance is a major issue and often those paths are not well-maintainded; it can be convenient to plan excursions on the less popular trails after the annual celebrations of mountain shelters (on the occasion of the celebrations, the community takes care of the cleaning and mowing; the celebrations are usually organized in the first weeks of July) or to use trails connected to managed mountain shelters (the managers usually take care also of the trails). When trails are not properly maintained they can be difficult to find, identify and follow, they can be afforested, or – for muleteers – they can be flooded with rain (if not maintained the banks of small streams break and the steams grow bigger using the trail as a canal).
Calamities
For emergencies there is a unique emergency number which is 112 (numero unico di emergenza). The service is managed in Varese and the forward the requests to the appropriate structure (police, carabinieri - which is military police, firemen...).
- Volontari Protezione Civile di Esino Lario. The non profit group of trained volunteers associated to the national Protezione Civile (civil protection) supporting the territories and other national territories in case of emergencies and calamities.
- Gruppo Antincendio di Esino Lario. The non profit group helping in case of fire.
Stay healthy
The emergency number in Italy is 118; it is a centralized service. The nearest hospitals are in Lecco, Gravedona and Morbegno. Esino has a airstrip for helicopters located in Bigallo and used for medical emergencies. Ambulances reach Esino Lario from Bellano and the association Soccorso Val d'Esino provides assistance and transport for medical visits.
- 2 Doctor for the inhabitants, Piazza Pietro Pensa (In the main square of the village just below the city hall, next to the pharmacy.), ☏ +39 0341 860527.
- 3 Doctor for the tourists and visitors, Piazza Pietro Pensa (In the main square of the village just below the city hall, next to the pharmacy.), ☏ +39 334 1581545. The service is available in July and August.
- 4 Pharmacy, Piazza Pietro Pensa (In the main square of the village just below the city hall.), ☏ +39 0341 860118. The opening hours are indicated on the city council website. The pharmacy of Esino Lario is owned and managed by the city council.
- Soccorso Val d'Esino, via Adamello 18, ☏ +39 0341 860 095. A non profit association with trained volunteers providing assistance and transport for medical visits.
Connect
Internet
Esino Lario is connected with broadband and the Internet is distributed through phone landlines (56Kb and ADSL Alice), UMTS (tim) and Wireless (Eolo). Villa Clotilde provides free access to the Internet (Eolo) during its opening hours and there are few netbook available for visitors.
- 5 Villa Clotile, via Montefiori 19. Saturday and Sunday morning and during holidays. For the hours please refer to the website of the city council or call. Free.
Post
There is a postoffice in Esino Lario and of course mail carriers deliver there (there are quite a few mail carriers already delivering regularly to local companies).
- 6 Post office, Via Dante 1.
Telephone
The local area code is 0341; international code is +39 if calling from outside Italy (you keep the 0 when dialing a number; i.e. +390341...). Mobile operators active in the area are Tim, Tre (roaming) and Vodafone. 3G with Tim appears to be the one working at best.