As of Jan 2011, there are no speedboats heading north to Belaga due to a new dam up the river. Alternate routes include heading back to Sibu and taking a bus, or trying to arrange smaller boats and 4WD vehicles (though this could be costly).
As of Jan 2012 it's possible to take speedboats to Belaga, since the dam is completed. You need to apply for a free of charge permit at the Residents office in Kapit near the airport. Therefore, you need to stay overnight in Kapit before heading to Belaga. It's possible to take a 4WD from Belaga down to the main road at the coast.
There are some longhouses close to Kapit. But be cautious with guides in Kapit, as you'll just be overcharged for transport/housing that you can find on your own at the local wet market. Be cautious about a friendly Mr. Joshua Muda Guna, who is wrongly mentioned in some guide books as reliable and knowledgeable. His tours are expensive and you don't get what he promises.
From Sibu there are regular AC express boats to Kapit (3½ hr, costs 20RM per person). The last boat leaves at 2:30PM and arrives in Kapit anywhere between 5:40PM and 6:30PM depending on river levels. Boats can get a little chilly so consider bringing a jumper.
There are minibusses close to the wharf.
Visit a longhouse, like the over 100-year-old Rumah Bundong (formerly known as Rumah Seligi after the late chief). For a few hour tour during the day, just head to the wet market (big outdoor square selling fish and other assortments) and talk to one of the yellow cab drivers. William Taba (+60 138000112) will provide transport at a fair price (half price of any 'tour guide'). A minbus may run 60RM per person, and then add another 25RM pp. to the chief of the longhouse - a modest fee and some of that has to go to the state.
Longhouse overnight stays are best to be invited, the best way to do this is to ask around to learn more about the long houses: strangers on the street, neighbors at the hawker stalls, or your hotel staff should be able to help.
Walk around the city centre on the weekends - this is the busiest time when nearby locals come to visit, you'll see the city dry up around 3pm on Sunday when everybody takes the last boat out.
When in Kapit you must try some of the excellent local cuisine such as wild boar (babi hutan). There are great hawker stalls that open at the Open Air Night Market one street behind the public square.
- Unnamed Chinese Stall at the Open Air Night Market next to the Methodist Church (side closest to the Rajang River on the "upstream" end). Probably the best food at the night market. Try the "Nasi + Ayam + Sayur + Sup" (delicious made-to-order rice combo) or the "Nasi Kampur" (slow-cooked chicken with rice). They also seem to have the only Ice Kacang (recommended) and ABC in Kapit after dark. Very clean kitchen. Open from 5:30PM to around 10PM.
- Malindo Cafe in the narrow "Harmony Mall" Chinese street of shops. One of the only restaurants in town with relatively spicy food (Muslim). Their selection of pre-cooked dishes is above average (ask for some spicy chili sauce also called "sambal"). Open for breakfast and lunch.
- Kapit River View Inn, No. 10, 1st Floor Jln Tan Set Leong, Kapit 96800 , Malaysia, ☏ . Right in the city center, has free WiFi, TV, A/C, hot water, pretty clean, and locals have been seen staying here. 70RM.
- Orchard Inn, 64, Jalan Airport, ☏ . Clean, well-run Chinese hotel. Rooms with AC, TV, free WiFi and attached bathroom. Above Orchard restaurant, a popular Chinese restaurant packed regularly with local families enjoying quality food. 68RM (negotiable).