Kiel
Kiel is the capital city of the German state of Schleswig-Holstein and has a population of roughly 248,000 (2018). It is on the Baltic Sea at the end of the "Kieler Förde".
Understand
[edit]
Kiel is a maritime city and has been for a long time, it remains one of Germany main passenger ports (besides Travemünde and Rostock) and as the Baltic endpoint of the Kiel Canal plays an important role in shipping. The death-knell of German monarchism sounded here when in 1918 the admirals wanted the fleet to sail out for one last glorious but militarily pointless battle. The sailors revolted against their officers, culminating in revolution and the formation of Soviets.
During the Second World War, Kiel was severely bombed, because of its submarine-producing shipyard. Civil and military ships are being built in Kiel nowadays and the tall cranes dominate the eastern shore of the Förde (fjord).
The bombing destroyed almost all historic buildings in Kiel; even the older looking buildings were built after World War II. So, if you come to the "Kieler Schloss" (Kieler Castle) don't be disappointed. There isn't much left of the original building. During the rebuilding after the war, mostly modern architecture was used.
Tourist information
[edit]- Kiel tourism website
Get in
[edit]By boat
[edit]- See also: Baltic Sea Ferries
Kiel serves as the German ferry terminus for the ferries to Oslo, Norway with Color Line and Gothenburg, Sweden with Stena Line[dead link]. It is also the endpoint of the Kiel Canal, which connects the North Sea to the Baltic Sea (allowing ships to avoid rounding Denmark).
By train
[edit]- 1 Kiel Hauptbahnhof (next to the main bus terminal and across the road from the central shopping district). Kiel is connected to the DB rail system, with regular RE, IC, ICE and EC services to Hamburg and beyond. Transfers can be made in Flensburg or Lübeck to Danish Rail.
By bus
[edit]2 Kiel intercity bus station
At the Auguste-Viktoria-Straße, bus lines run services to, or through, Kiel. A weekly bus leaves Kiel and travels via Poland and the Baltic states to Tallinn, Estonia. A comfortable bus operates daily from Berlin to Kiel via Lübeck (6 hours). Further bus operators serve domestic routes.
By plane
[edit]- 3 Kiel Airport (KEL IATA), in "Holtenau" (north-west). There is no commercial service to this airport.
- 4 Hamburg Fuhlsbüttel (HAM), Flughafenstr. 1, 22335 Hamburg (southwest). The nearest major airport is Hamburg, about 100 km away (one hour by car). The airport has a railway connection to Hamburg's Hauptbahnhof, from where there are multiple trains a day to Kiel. There is a shuttle bus service to and from the Airport (Kielius). Buy both tickets (from/to the airport) at the same time for a discount, and be sure to hold on to your voucher. Students get a discount (ISIC required).
By car
[edit]Kiel is connected to two Autobahns, the A210 to Rendsburg and the A215, both of which also connect to the A7 (which is part of the European road E45). Alternatively, take the B503 from the north (Dänischenhagen), B76 from the northwest (Eckernförde) or southeast (Plön), B404 from the south (Bad Segeberg), B4/L318 from the south (Neumünster, though taking the A7/A215 will likely be faster), or the B502 from the northeast (Wisch).
Get around
[edit]Kiel has a public transport system based on buses and ferries operated by VRK. 1-, 3- and 7-day tickets are available, and offer good value for tourists. You can use the NAH SH app to purchase tickets. The Groupticket "Kleingruppenkarten ohne Sylt-Bus" can be a particularly good value: for a total of €45.90 (as of May 2024) for unlimited transit starting 09:00 on Monday-Friday or starting 12:00 on Saturday, Sunday and holidays until 06:00 the subsequent day, a group of up to 5 adults (children free) can ride all buses and trains in the entire SH-Tarif Network (Schleswig-Holstein state plus Hamburg minus Sylt island).
The taxi service is expensive but good.
Kiel is very flat, and bicycles can be rented at various places. The main train station has a large bicycle garage and bicycle rental centre (Radstation), with regular bicycles and e-bikes available. It is quite easy to ride from Kiel to Laboe, catch a ferry to Strande, and cycle back to Kiel.
For short trips, Sprottenflotte bikes can be rented by using a smartphone app. Bikes are provided by Donkey Republic, but you may still encounter the old Nextbike bikes as well, so it's best to have both apps installed. Use the apps to scan the bikes' QR codes, and return them at any Sprottenflotte station in the city (e-bikes can only be returned at designated e-bike stations, marked in red in the app). Prices are as follows (for details, see the price list[dead link], under "Sprottenflotte Kiel"):
- Regular bikes: the first 30 minutes are free; each additional 30 minutes cost €1, up to a maximum of €9 per 24 hours.
- Cargo bikes: 30 minutes cost €1 (the first 30 minutes are not free), up to a maximum of €12 per 24 hours.
- E-bikes, including cargo e-bikes: the first 30 minutes cost €2; each additional 30 minutes cost €1, up to a maximum of €25 per 24 hours.
Bikes can be reserved in the app at no cost for up to 15 minutes, and it's a good idea to do this when walking to a station. Don't expect high-quality bikes, and if you want a helmet, bring your own.
Electric scooters are also available, with at least Bolt, Lime and Tier operating in Kiel. All scooters can be rented in the respective apps.
When crossing the Kiel canal, you can go across one of several bridges (Holtenauer Hochbrücken, Levensauer Hochbrücken), or take a ferry shuttle. The Adler 1 at Kiel-Holtenau only takes pedestrians and bicycles; the ferries at Landwehr and Sehestedt also carry cars and motorcycles. All canal ferries are free.
See
[edit]
- 1 Type VII-C U-boat (at the shore in Laboe (part of Kiel on the east-side of the fjord)). The only surviving U-boat from World War II.
- 2 Marine-Ehrenmal (Navy Memorial), Strandstraße 92. It has a high tower.
- Kiel Canal (Nord-Ostsee Kanal). The world's busiest canal. It is possible to walk or cycle for almost the entire length (99 km) directly along the canal from Kiel to Brunsbüttel (estuary of the Elbe, on the North Sea Coast), staying overnight in the town of Rendsburg.
- Gorch Fock. Kiel is the home of the German Baltic fleet, and it is common to see all types of German warships and submarines in the "Förde", including the training sailing vessel Gorch Fock.
- 3 Tiergehege Tannenberg (Tannenberger Gehölz), Projensdorfer Straße 276. A smaller forest area in the north of Kiel where different types of deer roam about freely and with relatively little fear of humans. There are some enclosures including one for boar. Not spectacular, but good for a relaxing walk and to see some of the local wildlife. Make sure to obey the feeding rules posted around the area. Entry is free.
Museums
[edit]Eight museums of Kiel have created a common initiative called Museen am Meer, or "museums by the sea", where a common website brings together all details you need about their collections, opening times, admission prices etc. along with a route planner. For young travellers (17 years and younger), there is an app, "MuseumsCard[dead link]", that offers information and free admission to many museums in Kiel and the rest of Schleswig-Holstein.
- Antikensammlung (Collection of Classical Antiquities). Face to face with antiquity: collection of Greek vases as well as casts of important Roman and Greek sculptures unique to Schleswig-Holstein.
- Aquarium Geomar, Düsternbrooker Weg 20. Public aquarium that is part of an oceanic research centre. From Baltic Sea herring to tropical seahorse: local and exotic sea creatures presented in aquariums that simulate their natural habitats. Known for its outdoor seal pool which can be accessed for free without entering the aquarium itself. Seal feeding times every day at 10:00 and 14:00 except on Friday. €3; concession €2.
- 4 Kunsthalle zu Kiel (Museum of Fine Arts). Art from the Dürer era through to the present day: permanent collection spanning all artistic genres, including works by Repin, Nolde and Richter, as well as special exhibitions on specific topics and artists.
- 5 Medizin- & Pharmaziehistorische Sammlung (Museum of Medical & Pharmaceutical History), medmuseum@med-hist.uni-kiel.de. Insight into the history of medicine and pharmaceuticals: exhibition of historic instruments, collection of pathology specimens, interior of an old pharmacy and a doctor’s office.
- 6 Schifffahrtsmuseum (City and Maritime Museum), Wall 65. In the former fish auction hall, built in 1910: permanent exhibition on Kiel’s maritime history, pier with historic ships.
- 7 Stadtgalerie Kiel (Kiel Municipal Gallery of Contemporary Arts), stadtgalerie@kiel.de. New contemporary art: exhibitions of regional and international contemporary art, art from the Baltic Sea region, permanent exhibition of the works of the Expressionist artist Heinrich Ehmsen.
- 8 Stadtmuseum Warleberger Hof (City and Maritime Museum), Stadt-undSchifffahrtsmuseum@kiel.de. Traces of Kiel history: permanent exhibition on the early history of the city and exhibitions on social and cultural history.
- 9 Zoologisches Museum (Zoological Museum Kiel). Experience marine and evolutionary research at first hand: exciting display on the subject of marine science and research, Germany’s most extensive exhibition of whale species, presentation of the origins of zoology in Kiel.
Do
[edit]There are two free monthly magazines listing activities and events. Paper copies of Station[dead link] and Ultimo can be found in most cafes. Online information is available via Kiel Magazin and Fördeflüsterer.
Kieler Woche
[edit]The main tourist attraction is the Kieler Woche ("Kiel Week") at the end of June.
Apart from being world's largest sailing event the Kieler Woche is one of Germany's largest festivals. Apart from the sailing, the entire centre of the town is transformed into an international food and craft fair, with regular big name performers appearing nightly. If you intend to visit Kiel during this time, book your hotel well ahead. The waterfront and major parts of downtown will be inaccessible for cars.
Information on events is posted all over town and through a free magazine which will be distributed about a month before the event. Events include entertainment for kids during daytime throughout the entire week and lots of open air concerts. Most concerts end around 23:00 and nightlife moves to indoor venues and to the Eggerstedtstraße.
Aside from an abundance of food and drink outlets along the streets the "International Market" on the Rathausmarkt is the place to go for food and drink. Dozens of countries operate booths on the open-air market offering their traditional foods and drinks. The Kieler Nachrichten newspaper runs a special about food on the market in its Saturday edition, with ratings. If you cannot decide from the endless choices head over to the Scandinavian area or to wherever crowds are gathering; the Poles also offer large portions for a surprisingly low price.
Libraries
[edit]Kiel's public library, the Stadtbücherei, is open to all visitors (medical masks and contact tracing are required as of Aug 2021). The main library is in the city centre (Andreas-Gayk-Str. 31, 24103 Kiel), but there's a couple more throughout the city, of which the ones in Gaarden (Elisabethstr. 64, 24143 Kiel) and Mettenhof (Sibeliusweg 2a, 24109 Kiel) offer the largest selection. Anyone can come in and read; a membership is required to check out media, with 1-month memberships being available for €3.
Kiel University operates its own libraries. The central library (Leibnizstr. 9, 24118 Kiel) is open to everyone; checking out books requires membership, but this is not restricted to university members. Departmental libraries may or may not be open to the general public. The focus is, obviously, on scientific literature.
Sports
[edit]- THW Kiel (Handball), Europaplatz 1, ☏ +49 431 98210 226. One of the most successful handball clubs in Germany, Kiel is also among the top addresses for the sport throughout Europe. They were the 2014/2015 German champion and hold the record for most national championships at 20. standing tickets from €14.50; seated tickets €18-50.
- Football: 2 Holstein Kiel, Holstein-Stadion, Westring 501 (4 km north of centre), ☏ +49 431 318 40040, info@holstein-kiel.de. Die Störche (The Storks) were promoted in 2024 and now play soccer in Bundesliga, the top tier. The stadium has a capacity of 15,000.
- Kiel Baltic Hurricanes, Hasseldieksdammer Weg 165, ☏ +49 431 97997612. Kiel's local American football team.
Physical activity
[edit]- High Spirits Hochseilgarten, Falckensteiner Strand 15, ☏ +49 431 3104947. A forest adventure park with a number of treetop ropes courses.
Buy
[edit]A variety of shops are located in the pedestrian zone Holstenstraße and the mall Sophienhof. Another relatively big mall is the Citti-Park, which is also home to the Citti-Markt, Kiel's best (but probably also most expensive) supermarket. Several large furniture store are in the same general area as the Citti-Park: Ikea, Möbel Höffner and Sconto, Höffner's low-cost companion.
Numerous cafés are located in the old town centre at the northern tip of the Holstenstraße near the "Nikolaikirche" (Nikolai church).
An outdoor shopping area is the busy Holtenauer Straße with lots of cafés and more upscale stores towards the south end near the Dreiecksplatz.
Eat
[edit]There are food courts in Kieler Hauptbahnhof (train station) and the shopping mall across from the train station (Sophienhof).
Budget
[edit]In the city center
[edit]- 1 Fisch Maxx, Holstenstraße 92-94, ☏ +49 160 4802174. M-Sa 10:00-18:30, Su closed. Cheap fish and chips restaurant.
- 2 Grill-Maxx & Biergarten Holstenplatz, Holstenplatz 10, ☏ +49 431 5878580. M-F 10:00-19:00, Su closed. A barbecue restaurant.
- 3 Sviet - Asia Cuisine, Schloßstraße 21A, ☏ +49 431 28903068, asia.cuisine21@yahoo.de. M-F 11:30-15:00, 17:30-21:30, Sa-Su 17:30-21:30. Family-run restaurant specializing in Asian cuisine, especially offering a wide range of Vietnamese dishes.
Near the city center
[edit]- 4 Neumanns, Prüne 29, ☏ +49 431 79934779, info@bistro-neumanns.de. M-F 7:30-14:00, Sa-Su closed. A bistro.
- 5 Wiener Grillhaus, Kirchhofallee 31, ☏ +49 431 363669, info@wiener-grillhaus.de. Daily, 14:00-23:00. Burger Restaurant, which uses fresh ingredients and offers only homemade dishes.
- 6 Mein Döner und Co., Schülperbaum 14, ☏ +49 431 98280030, cemre-gulsin@hotmail.de. M 11:00-20:00, Tu-Su 11:00-23:00.
- 7 Asia Wok, Ringstraße 47, ☏ +49 431 9907554. M-F 11:00-23:00, Sa-Su noon-23:00. A Thai restaurant.
- 8 Mr. Döner, Exerzierplatz 14, ☏ +49-431-6668444, info@mr-doener.de. 11:00-24:00. Very good and affordable döner (kebap).
Around the Schrevenpark
[edit]- 9 Garips Imbiss (corner of the Metzstraße and Wörthstraße(off of the Westring)), ☏ +49 431 2107987, mail@garips.de. Daily, 10:00-23:00. Excellent German/Turkish Döner kebabs.
Mid-range
[edit]- 10 Bergklause, Schwester-Therese-Straße 9, ☏ +49 431 69662026. Daily, 18:00-23:00, Tuesdays closed.
- 11 Cotidiano, Reventlouallee 2, ☏ +49 431 58781828, kiellinie@cotidiano.de. Breakfast is available all day, not cheap but good quality and with a nice view of the Kieler Förde.
Splurge
[edit]- 12 Fischers Fritz, Martenshofweg 2-8, ☏ +49 431 5331 300, info@hotel-birke.de. Part of Hotel Birke (see below); excellent food but expensive. Be sure to book in advance.
Drink
[edit]Good cafes and pubs can be found in the old city centre.
Cafes and pubs
[edit]- 1 Subrosa, Elisabethstr. 25 (situated in Kiel-Gaarden), ☏ +49 431 76749, subrosa1995@riseup.net. Tu-Th 17:00-23:00, F-Sa 15:00-1:00, Su 17:00-23:00, M closed. Kiel's alternative pub and bistro.
- 2 Unrat, Spichernstr. 2 (to enter from Metzstr.), ☏ +49 431 6672211. Daily from 19:30-open end. The place for Kiel's students to talk philosophy, drink a cheap beer or listen to some live band.
- 3 Prinz Willy, Lutherstraße 9, ☏ +49 431 64081071. F-Sa 15:00-23:00, Su 15:00-20:00, M-Th closed. A "creative" café that offers live music, arts and poetry.
- Exlex, Ziegelteich 14 (Right in the middle of Kiel). The number one meeting point for students and young folks downtown.
- 4 Blauer Engel, Kaistr. 47 (at the quai by the central station.), ☏ +49 431 8001919. A café, bar and nightclub with a nice view and outdoor serving.
- 5 Cafe Medusa, Medusastr. 16 (is situated in a backyard in Kiel's multicultural district Gaarden on the east coast of the Kiel Fjord.), ☏ +49 1522 9269788, medusa@gaarden.net. M-Sa 19:00-2:00, Su closed. It hosts live-music and readings.
Bars
[edit]- 6 Astor Bar, Holstenplatz 1-2, ☏ +49 431 99790. One of Kiel's best cocktail bars.
- 7 Chaplin's, Waisenhofstraße, ☏ +49 431 92610, chaplinslascari@web.de. Tu-Sa 19:00-2:00, Su-M closed. Piano player and cocktails.
Clubs
[edit]Kiel's clubs are spread out all across the city. Although some locals prefer doing the one-hour drive to Hamburg to go out, Kiel has some clubs that are worth being checked out. Make sure you have had a look at the site Fördeflüsterer before going out to get the most accurate information on all night live events. Most clubs have a €5 cover fee.
- 8 Pumpe, Haßstr. 22, ☏ +49 431 2007650. M-F 10:00-16:00, Sa-Su closed. A community-run cultural centre showing independent movies, providing room for community projects, concerts, bars and parties. On Thursday night students dance soul, reggae and funk at the FunkPump party.
- 9 Luna, Bergstraße 17A, ☏ +49 431 5192176. Rhis club hosts parties ranging from electronic tunes to Soul/Funk and Ragga. Cover charge might be higher if nationally-recognized DJs operate the turntables.
- 10 Max, Eichhofstr. 1, ☏ +49 431 1229955. Standard R'n'B, techno club with two floors. Also has metal/gothic/darkwave etc., watch out for Kontrollverlust and Praxis Dr. MosH.
- 11 Schaubude, Legienstr. 40, ☏ +49 431 556600, info@kieler-schaubude.de.
- Traum GmbH. Incorporating a restaurant, an independent movie theater, and a club, the Traumgmbh is likely to offer something that is just right for you. If you're over the age of 30, the Ü30 party is the party to go to. They will check your ID!
- Tucholsky. Being by far the most famous club in Kiel, this somewhat battered and shady place is located in a former parking garage. A formerly very popular club among students now hosts a fairly young crowd that dances to pop, rock, r'n'b, techno, punk, and indie on four dance-floors (on the weekends). You can still get a feeling for the old days on Tuesdays at the Tequila-Party. The Tucholksy has the most diverse crowd, the cheapest drinks and the poorest air-conditioning - especially in the summer. Not a clean and neat place but the only option if you feel like partying on Sundays through Wednesdays. No cover on weeknights.
- Weltruf. The interior of the Weltruf is dominated by a ship which has been built inside and cannot be removed.
Parties
[edit]Not exactly in the category of clubs are the various parties that take places in different parts of the city. Traditionally on Thursdays between October and April all the big university departments organize Studentenparties on and off campus. Expect somewhat cheap drinks and hundreds of university students dancing to a mix of pop, rock and r'n'b. Sometimes there are even live bands or second dance floors. On the weekends several fancier parties are hosted in unusual locations throughout Kiel. You'll be dancing to house music in a show room of a car dealer or in the terminal of the ferry to Scandinavia. Tickets for these parties can bought in advance which will save you money and time. Check the Kiel4Kiel site to find out where tickets are sold or ask a local student.
Live music
[edit]When it comes down to live music, Kiel is not the city where you'll be able to see big headliners. If you're into that you'll have to go to Hamburg. Still, you might be able to listen to some decent live music while staying in Kiel. The Halle400, the MAX and the community-operated Pumpe host local and international acts. Surprisingly good German or Scandinavian acts can sometimes be spotted in the Schaubude or the Nachtcafé for very little money. On occasion, some clubs like the Luna host national-recognized DJs. The city's own Kulturforum has concerts (as well as stage plays etc.) almost every night. The best place to find out who's playing and to get a ticket is Konzertkasse Streiber close to the Ostseehalle.
Sleep
[edit]The Youth Hostel is close to the Hauptbahnhof. There are a number of moderately priced hotels in the city centre. For some Olympic history, stay at Olympiazentrum in Schilksee, the sailing athletes village for the 1972 Munich Games. Top end is the Strande Hotel in Strande, or the Kieler Kaufmann just north of the city centre.
Budget
[edit]- Bekpek. Kronshagener Weg 130 a
- Kieler Zimmer. Bed & Breakfast, 550 m from Central Station (max. for 3 persons, shared bath with shower)
Mid-range
[edit]- 1 Nordic Hotel Astor, Holstenplatz 1-2 (city centre), ☏ +49 431 99790. Rooms have 1970s charm but are clean. Bar on highest floor has a great view of the city. Singles from €60, doubles €80.
- 2 Best Western Kiel, Hamburger Chaussee 2, ☏ +49 431 534020. Downtown, close to the main train station.
- 3 Hampton by Hilton, Exerzierplatz 5, ☏ +49 431 9968910. A new and modern hotel that's very central.
- 4 Rabe's Hotel, Ringstr. 30, ☏ +49 431 663070. Only a few hundred meters from the main train station.
- 5 Hotel Wiking, Schützenwall 1-3, ☏ +49 431 661090, info@hotel-wiking.com. Quite central.
Splurge
[edit]- 6 Steigenberger Hotel Conti-Hansa, Schloßgarten 7 (between the historic parts of Kiel and the Förde). Rates around €115.
- 7 Birke - Ringhotel Kiel, Martenshofweg 8. A few minutes away from city centre by car. Good service and amenities. Parking spaces available.
- 8 Hotel Kieler Yacht Club, Kiellinie 70 (right on the waterfront, north of the city centre). Ask for a room with a view of the fjord.
- 9 Youth Experiences, Andreas-gayk-Str. 31.
- 10 Romantik Hotel Kieler Kaufmann, Niemannsweg 102. Classic location in the middle of an extensive park area. House with a unique atmosphere. Parking spaces available.
Connect
[edit]Internet access
[edit]- The local Internet Service Provider TNG operates free wireless access points in the downtown area; watch out for #SH_WLAN. Access will be blocked after-hours. A list of locations is available on the TNG Spot website (German).
- Many larger stores, malls and supermarkets offer free WiFi.
- Deutsche Bahn (Germany's national railway company) offers free WiFi at the main train station (and on many trains). Access to the station, including the platforms, is not limited.
- The public library offers free Wi-Fi if you ask for a voucher with an access code.
- Commercial Wi-Fi based access can be found throughout most parts of Kiel provided by various operators. Most will not allow you to use your international roaming plan like iPass, though.