Mývatn is a lake near Akureyri in North Iceland. The lake was formed during a massive eruption 2300 years ago. Today the area is best known for the huge numbers of birds that visit in the summer, and for the weird and inspiring volcanic features that surround the lake. The name "Mývatn" is derived from the vast numbers of midges that gather at the lake and are sure to leave an impression on all who visit!
There are two small towns on the shores of Mývatn:
- 1 Reykjahlíð is a town of about 300 on the northeastern shore of the lake.
- 2 Skútustaðir is located on the southern shore of the lake. It is smaller than Reykjahlíð but offers most basic services that visitors will need.
Mývatn was formed after a massive eruption 2300 years ago, and it remains geothermally active today. The lake is located along the western side of the volcanic zone which bisects Iceland and is an extension of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. The features of the landscape are quite new in geologic times, with most of the land shaped by activity occurring since the last Ice Age.
The inhabitants of the surrounding area, called Mývatnssveit, are approx. 450 but many more live there in the summer to serve tourists. Lately there has been a movement among the local entrepreneurs to increase tourism in the winter so now some hotels are open during the winter and tours are offered, including go-carting on ice and ice-bowling as well as jeep rides over snowy terrain.
During the last Ice Age much of the Mývatn was covered by glaciers. Eruptions below the ice led to the formation of some of the area's mountains. Major volcanic events since that time have occurred 3800 years ago, 2500 years ago, 2300 years ago, and during a series of eruptions lasting from 1724 until 1729. Eruptions of the Krafla volcano from 1975 until 1984 produced fresh lava flows in the area. This volcanic activity is seen today in the relatively shallow lake, the many pseudocraters that surround it, and the fantastic lava formations and craters in the area.
Flora and fauna
Due to the number of wetlands surrounding the lake there are an exceptional number of waterbirds, and the area is recognized as one of the premier bird-watching sites in the world. Over 115 species of birds have been sighted at the lake, including thirteen species of ducks that nest in the lake area. Most nesting birds arrive in late April or early May. The most abundant species is the tufted duck, followed by the greater scaup and wigeon. Other commonly sighted species include the Barrow's goldeneye, red-breasted merganser, gadwall, mallard, common scoter, long-tailed duck and teal. Harlequin ducks and the Barrow's goldeneye breed nowhere else in Europe. Other birds likely to be seen at the lake include the tufted (Slavonian) grebe, red-necked phalarope, common loon (great northern diver), red-throated diver and whooper swan.
One of the reasons why so many birds congregate in the lake area is due to the massive number of aquatic insects - visitors are advised to bring mosquito netting with them to avoid the often-bloodthirsty hordes of black flies that can be found here.
In general the area's weather is less severe than what is found elsewhere in Iceland. The average temperature in January is -0.2°C, and in July the average reaches 10.2°C. The area is also one of the sunniest in Iceland, and annual precipitation is only 0.4m.
The easiest and most flexible way to visit the lake is by automobile. There are also numerous buses from Akureyri, Husavik or Egilsstadir. For those looking for more of an adventure, visiting by bicycle entails a 90-km pedal from Akureyri.
There is not much of a public transport system. If you came to Myvatn by bus, walking, biking and hitchhiking are you best options but beware as it can get quite chilly in the winter. The road around the lake is approximately 36 km, so biking is a good option. There are some local trips available at Skútustaðir, Vogar and Reykjahlíð (ask store clerks or information centers for details).
There are a vast number of sights for visitors around the lake. The following listing includes major points along the Ring Road, listed in clockwise order starting from Reykjahlíð, followed by those sites that are located off of the Ring Road.
- 1 Hverfjall (Hverfell) Crater. This 2500-year-old, nearly symmetrical tephra crater rises 463 m high and is 1040 m across. It is accessible via a trail that runs from Reykjahlíð to Dimmuborgir. Access to the bottom of the crater is not permitted in order to prevent erosion - please obey signs and remain on the marked paths.
- 2 Dimmuborgir. Dimmuborgir, which means "dark forts" in Icelandic, is an area of volcanic arches, pillars, caves and bridges along the east shore. The black lava formations are the result of a 2000-year-old lava flow, and numerous trails lead through the area. Cracks in the ground here often hide deep and dangerous crevices; stay on the marked trails.
- 3 Lofthellir, Lava Cave. Lofthellir Lava Cave is a 45-min drive away from Lake Myvatn. It is about 370m long and boasts the greatest natural ice sculptures currently known in an Icelandic lava cave. You must book a day tour as this is located on private land and off limits to the public.
- 4 Skútustaðagígar. The shores along the south side of the lake are home to many pseudocraters, formed during volcanic eruptions when lava flowed over wetlands, eventually resulting in steam eruptions and forming these medium-sized craters. There are a series of trails in the town of Skútustaðir that lead through these craters and provide further information about the geology behind these formations.
- 5 Vindbelgjarfjall. This 529-m tall peak is accessible from a trailhead along the road, just south of the mountain. The trail runs along generally flat land to the back of the mountain, after which it takes a decidedly vertical turn and leads straight to the summit. The trail is tiring and footing (on loose rock) can be tough - plan about 45 minutes to an hour for the ascent. Views from the top are tremendous, making this a very worthwhile trek.
- 6 Neslönd. The area north of Vindbelgjarfjall is a protected nesting area, and access during nesting season is forbidden; do not hike or drive off road to avoid disturbing the many birds present.
- 7 Námaskarð. A low mountain range about 6 km from Reykjahlið on the way to Egillsstaðir. Next to it - mainly at the bottom of the hill on the further side from Reykjahlið are interesting hot mud pools, solfataras, fumaroles, etc.
- 8 Krafla. The site of a major volcanic eruption known as the Krafla Fires of 1975-1984. The various overlying lavafields give an interesting striped appearance to the area on a larger scale. Some areas of lavafields that are still steaming, and there are solfataras and various lava formations. Nearby (about 500 m) is a large explosion crater called Víti (which is the same name as the similar explosion crater at Askja). It is a fairly large site and worth about half a day to walk around. To find it, set out from Reykjahlið, in the direction of Egillsstaðir and turn left at the signed turn after about 8 km. It is a further 7 km, a little way beyond the geothermal power station.
- 1 Mývatn Nature Baths, ☎ , fax: , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Summertime: 09:00 – 00:00, wintertime: 12:00 – 22:00. Something of a "Blue Lagoon lite", the Mývatn Nature Baths was opened in June 2004 and offers mineral-rich geothermal waters drawn from depths of up to 2500 m. Facilities include a reception area and cafeteria, changing rooms and showers, three natural steam baths accommodating up to 50 bathers at a time, and a 5000-m2 geothermal bathing pool maintained at a constant temperature of 38-40ºC. 3800 kr.
- 2 Grjótagjá Fissure (located apx. 5 min to the right of the main road on the way Egilsstadir). Take a bath at the Grjótagjá fissure. The water is extremely hot (completely at own risk). The roof has become unstable and visitors are now warned not to enter. Free.
- 3 Sigurgeir's Birdmuseum (Fuglasafn Sigurgeirs), Neslönd (Just off the main road northwest of the lake), ☎ . 11:00 - 19:00. A collection of birds collected by a local, Sigurgeir Stefánsson, who died in an accident on the lake in 1999. The museum has been build to honor his memory. It houses 300 birds of 180 species as well as some eggs. From the dining hall there is a nice view of the lake.
- Observe northern lights: the area round lake Mývatn is a great place for observing aurorae between September and March. Local hotels (e.g., Sel - Hótel Mývatn in Skútustaðir) and tour operators offer guided tours and aurora hunts. A very special experience is observing aurora while having a soak in a geothermal bath.
- Play golf at Reykjahlið's 9-hole course.
- In the summer the locals in Reykjahlið often play football in the evening and usually welcome more people. Alcohol is often involved.
- Aerial tour over the lake: by Myflug at Reykjahlið airport.
- Take the hour long walk along the pseudo-craters. It offers a nice view of Mývatn as well as the surrounding mountains.
Gas, groceries, souvenirs and other supplies can be purchased in the towns of Reykjahlíð (next to the N1 station) and Skútustaðir (at Sel - Hótel Mývatn).
The Mývatn area is known for hverabrauð, a delicious, one-of-a-kind molasses bread that is slow-baked for 24 hours underground by natural geothermal heat. This bread is sold around the lake area. In addition, the local smoked trout, which is famous in Iceland for its taste, can be bought in most of the shops. Restaurants and grocery stores can be found in the two main towns.
- 1 Cafe Borgir, Dimmuborgir. Closed late Dec-Mar. A cafe and a restaurant with indoor and outdoor places and a very scenic view over Mývatn area.
Bars, cafes, and other options can be found in the area's two main towns.
- Vogafjós Cowshed Café, Reykjahlíð. Just south of town, this unique cafe is in the same building as a working dairy farm - a glass wall separates visitors from the cows. Arrive around 16:00 if you're interested is watching the daily milking.
There are numerous accommodation options around Lake Mývatn, most of which can be found in the towns of Reykjahlíð and Skútustaðir. They range from good quality hotels to small guesthouses.
- Dimmuborgir Guesthouse, Geiteyjarströnd 1, ☎ . Dimmuborgir Guesthouse is on the eastern shore of Mývatn. It offers cozy cottages and rooms all year round with a great view over the lake.
- Hlíð Travel Service, Hlíð, ☎ , , e-mail: email@example.com. Hlíð Travel Service offers nine double rooms, each equipped with bathrooms. There is also a dormitory building, and a campsite, all in the same complex.
- Stöng Guesthouse, Gistiheimilið Stöng, ☎ . A few kilometers south of Lake Mývatn, this guesthouse has houses and is well situated for sight-seeing trips in the surrounding area.
- Vogafjós Guesthouse, Vogar 1, ☎ . Vogafjós offers cozy accommodation in newly built cottages. Breakfast is eaten at a special cowshed café, where you can watch the cows getting milked and eat local food.
- Vogahraun Guesthouse, Vogahraun, ☎ . Vogahraun Guesthouse is on the northern shore of Lake Mývatn. It offers Bed & Breakfast, sleeping bag accommodation and a camping site.
- Eldá Guesthouse, Helluhraun 15, ☎ .
- Helluhraun 13 Guesthouse, Helluhraun 13, ☎ . Helluhraun 13 guesthouse offers three double rooms with breakfast in a very personal atmosphere.
- Hotel Reykjahlíð, Reykjahlíð, ☎ , fax: , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. A family-run hotel just outside of town that includes a restaurant and tour operations. All rooms include private bath, breakfast, and free internet access.
- Icelandair Hotel Myvatn, Reykjahlíð, ☎ , e-mail: email@example.com. This four-star hotel has 41 rooms with private bath. The hotel also offers a restaurant, conference facilities, and includes buffet breakfast. high season/low season: Twin/Queen room from 23,800/13,600 kr; single from 22,000/10,000 kr.
- KEA Hotel Gígur, Skútustaðir, ☎ , fax: , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. This hotel has 37 rooms with private baths, a restaurant and a bar. The northern view over the lake from their common area is incredible during the midnight sun.
- Sel - Hotel Mývatn, Skútustaðir, ☎ , e-mail: email@example.com. Offers 35 rooms, each of which includes private bath, television, and internet access. The restaurant is also highly regarded. Single room from 14,500 kr, double from 19,500 kr.
- Skútustaðir Farmhouse, Skútustaðir, ☎ , fax: . This farmhouse has eleven rooms available.
- Hlíð Camp Site, ☎ , , e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Uphill from the church. Camping, dormitory accommodation and private cabins.
Like most places in Iceland visitors should always watch the weather and exercise caution around thermal areas. Weather changes quickly, and the onset of fog, high wind, or a severe storm can turn the best day into a survival situation. Similarly, thermal pools are often boiling hot and should be approached with caution, and the areas around thermal features are often unstable so all warnings and barriers should be observed.
Crime is not an issue in the Mývatn area, but sensible precautions should still be taken.
- Bus trips from Akureyri and Egilsstaðir go by Myvatn. There are also bus trips to/from Húsavík from Reykjahlíð.