Malinalco is a fascinating small town in Mexico State that is a popular weekend destination for people from Mexico City and Cuernavaca. It is a very old community famous for its Aztec temples, its colonial era small town feel with several historic churches, its natural scenery with mountains and valleys, and for the nearby village of Chalma with its church that houses a famous "black christ" figure that is a magnet for religious pilgrims and those seeking divine intervention. Malinalco is known for its shamans and a reputation for black magic. The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.

Understand

Jaguar sculpture at Malinalco Building 1

Malinalco is ancient. Archaeologists have found potsherds and signs of human occupation dating back to 1800 BC, but the area was sparsely populated until the Classic area (roughly around the 10th century). The archaeological site at Malinalco is quite young by Mexican standards, focusing on Aztec constructions from the late 15th century right up until the day the Spaniards marched in and informed the local indigenous population that they now had the honor of serving the Spanish crown. The Aztec structures were built to honor the eagle warriors and jaguar warriors.

Aztec mythology says that Malinalco was settled when a nomadic tribe stumbled into an argument between the god Huitzilopochtil and his sister Malinalxochitl. Huitzilopochtil was irritated with his sister, so in the middle of the night, he left the encampment along with most of the nomadic people. In the morning, Malinalxochitl discovered that she'd been abandoned with the smaller group of nomads. These people became known as the Matlazlincans, who then occupied the land.

Capilla de San Pedro is one of several 16th century Augustinian churches in Malinalco

Historically, groups of Toltec and Otomi moved into the area at various points in history. There is evidence they paid tribute to Tula, and in 1476, they were conquered by the Aztec army of Axayacatl. The Aztec dominated the region until the conquest.

Although different religious orders were present in Malinalco at various points in the colonial era, the enduring imprint was made by the Augustinians who evangelized the community beginning in 1537 and who built a large convent and several smaller churches and chapels in Malinalco and its surrounding villages. The most significant of these churches are the Church of the Divine Savior in the town of Malinalco and the Sanctuary of Chalma.

The town is situated in a river valley, giving it a sense of isolation. Just over 6,500 people live in the town of Malinalco (2015), with several thousand more in nearby villages.

Get in

By bus

From Mexico City, it's about an hour by bus to Malinalco. Flecha Roja has several buses daily departing from the Observatorio bus terminal. Tickets start at M$120.

• 1 Flecha Roja Terminal Chalma-Malinalco (Chalma-Malinalco Bus Station). Bus station operated by the Flecha Roja company. Buses from Mexico City's Observatorio station. 

By car

From Toluca, take federal highway MEX 55 south toward Tenancingo. Turn east toward Joquicingo, continue past the town to the site.

From Mexico City, take federal highway MEX 95 about 25 km until you see the sign for Xochicalco Ruinas. Take that turn and continue 7 km past Xochicalco to the town of Miacatlan. Look for signs to Malinalco, it is a dirt road but in good condition. It is about 20 km from Miacatlan to Malinalco.

Get around

The town is compact and easily walkable and the archaeological site is a short distance from the town center. You'll want to use a taxi to visit the village of Chalma. Taxis are usually found at the sitio next to the zócalo.

See

Walkway in the cloisters at the Convento Agustino del Divino Salvador

• 1 Zocalo (Kiosko Malinalco). One of two central squares in Malinalco, this one featuring the bandstand/kiosk. Pleasant park for strolling, relaxing and people watching. 
• 2 Parroquia del Divino Salvador (Church of the Divine Savior, Convento Agustino del Transfiguracion), Esq. De Progreso e Hidalgo, Centro. Historic 16th-century church built by the Augustinians between 1540 and 1580. Adjacent to church is the Convento de Augustino Transfiguracion. Both the main church and the convent reflect rennaissance style and are known for their frescos, painted by various artists over a period of several decades. Flemish artist Simón Pereyns painted some of the frescoes in the late 1560s. In the convent, the Augustinians enlisted indigenous artists known as Tlacuilos who painted many of the frescoes and mediterranean designs in the architectural detail. Parts of the church were damaged by an earthquake in 2017 and are frequently closed off for renovation. 

Aztec temple to warriors at Malinalco (Building 1)

• 3 Malinalco Archaeological Zone (Cuauhtinchan, Cerro de los Idolos), Amajac, Barrio Santa Monica, ☏ +52 714 147 3103. 10:00 - 15:00 (closed M). The ruins of Malinalco seem to be carved into the cliffside, giving it a dramatic feel and natural setting. The site features six structures built in the late 15th century and early 16th century. The most famous are two temples, honoring the eagle warriors and the jaguar warriors. Malinalco was a sanctuary for Aztec warriors and was used for secret ceremonies and rituals involving high priests and probably the emperor himself. The most impressive structure is Building 1, which was carved directly into the mountain's stone walls (including the sculptures). The main staircase is flanked by jaguar sculptures and a third is in the middle of the steps (all three scultpures are badly eroded after 5 centuries of neglect and exposure to the elements). The temple doorway is carved as a snake mouth with jaws gaping open through which you walk. Additional eagle and jaguar sculptures are inside the temple. All that remains of Building 2 is a raised platform. The stones used to construct the building were plundered by the Augustinian friars in the 16th century for use in building their convent. Building 3 was also carved into the rock of the mountain and is said to have been decorated with murals, which have degraded over the centuries to the point that there is little sign of any previous artwork. Building 4 is the northernmost building at the site and you can enter it by climbing a short set of stairs. Inside is a sunken altar. The site also includes an area of pre-Aztec ruins, though the area is closed to all but archaeologists with permits from INAH. A site museum (called Museo Universitario Dr. Luis Mario Schneider) is a modern, inviting facility that documents and explains the history of Malinalco and its ruins, with a number of relics on display that were excavated during several digs in the 20th and 21st centuries. M$85. 

Main altar of the Sanctuary of Chalma

• 4 Sanctuary of Chalma (Santuario: El Señor de Chalma), Independencia, Chalma. This is one of the coolest old churches in Mexico and not just because its stunningly beautiful (which it is), but because of the cultural value behind it. Long before the Spanish invaded Mexico, and long before the Aztecs had invaded Malinalco, the indigenous population worshiped an idol of the god Oxtoteotl in the caves of Chalma. When the Augustinian friars came in and started evangelizing the native population they were going to destroy the idol, but found that it had been miraculously converted to a Christ figure and that the indigenous people would worship that just they had the idol in its previous incarnation. Locals took it as a miracle, and the Augustinians were just happy to have them worshiping Christ instead of an indigenous god. Today, the "black Christ" idol is displayed prominently inside the sanctuary, which is an active church maintained by the Diocese of Tenancingo. The church also holds a famous sculpture of the archangel Michael and a painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe. A pavilion outside the church is used for traditional dancers. There is also a spring where pilgims cleanse themselves in the healing waters and a room filled with retablos, testaments as to miracles granted after praying to the black christ of Chalma. The church is hugely popular and famous across Mexico. It claims to be the second-most visited shrine in Mexico (after the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City). A small village has grown up around the sanctuary for locals who make their living serving the pilgrim and tourist crowds (vendors, innkeepers, etc.), but crowds during Holy Week far outstrip the resources of the small community with an estimated 50,000 visitors vying to crowd into the small church. 

Do

Mojigangas parading through Malinalco

Festivals

• Feast Day of the Patron Saint of Malinalco (Festejos del Divino Salvador) - first week of August, festivities include the famous parade of the mojigangas (costumed characters), along with food, dancing, music, and carnival attractions

Water parks

Natural hot springs are found in the town of Malinalco and several of the surrounding villages that make up its municipality (including Chalma). Spas provide pampering and several water parks provide wet family fun. The water parks, called balnearios, range from older, more modest parks with several hot water swimming pools to elaborate water theme parks that include water slides, wave pools, lazy rivers and similar attractions.

Buy

• Tianguis - Sunday is market day in Malinalco with vendors setting up around the zócalo around 08:00 or 09:00.

Eat

Several restaurants are located in the historic center area in the town of Malinalco, within a few blocks of the zocalo. Many hotels also have on-site restaurants. Many street food vendors are located near the Chalma Sanctuary.

• 1 Casa Diablitos Malinalco, Vicente Guerrero 8, Santa Monica. F-Su 11:00 - 01:00, closed M-Th. Unique restaurant that plays up tradition with its deliberately rundown antique decor, its regional cuisine, its array of homemade mezcals, and its dishes that all but the boldest palates will hesitate to try, like the scorpion, or the grasshopper tacos with pumpkin seeds (tacos de chapulines). (updated Aug 2023)
• 2 Las Palomas, Vicente Guerrero 104, ☏ +52 714 147 0122. Su Tu-Th 10:00 - 18:00, F Sa 10:00 - 22:00, closed M. Upscale traditional restaurant serving innovative regional cuisine. Jamaica flowers are a favorite as is the Chicken breast stuffed with huitlacoche in a pastry crust. Very popular with waiting times of about an hour during the weekend. M$300. (updated Aug 2023)

Drink

• 1 Pulques Nawa, Vicente Guerrero 212. F-Su 11:00 - 20:00, closed M-Th. Traditional pulqueria catering to the weekend tourist trade and serving both natural and cured, flavored pulques. Travelers who enjoy fruity tropical drinks should try the mango with passion fruit or the red prickly pear. Lively atmosphere with live music and artsy decor. (updated Aug 2023)

Sleep

The best selection of hotels, and most of the boutique B&Bs, are in the town of Malinalco. Camping and glamping areas are found throughout the area. Lodging options close to the Chalma Sanctuary cater to pilgrims, who are usually on low to no budget, and may be a good choice for backpackers.

• 1 Malikualli, Prolongación El Pirul S/N, (atrás del panteón municipal), San Juan, ☏ +52 722 689 9728. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Stay in the traditional hotel rooms, or splurge and rent one of the domes for a "glamping" experience. They also arrange tours and activities including rock climbing, rappelling, and zip lining. (updated Aug 2023)
• 2 Hotel Santa Monica, Av. Hidalgo 109, ☏ +52 714 147 0031. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate rustic hotel 2-blocks from the main plaza. Secured off-street parking available. (updated Aug 2023)
• 3 Paradise Hotel, Carr. Toluca-Chalma 409, ☏ +52 714 147 0421. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Upscale family-focused hotel with spacious clean rooms, manicured gardens with swimming pool, spa services, and an on-site restaurant with ample breakfasts. M$2200. (updated Aug 2023)
• 4 Flor y Canto Malinalco, Carretera Federal Malinalco Chalma Km 5, ☏ +52 714 147 2393. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Upscale hotel with clean rooms, swimming pool, and secured parking. Nicest hotel close to Chalma. (updated Aug 2023)

Go next

• Tenancingo
• Toluca
• Cuernavaca