Great Cumbrae is an island in the Firth of Clyde off the coast of Ayrshire, with Millport as its only settlement, and a population of 1376 in 2011. The island is about 3 miles long by 1½ miles wide, roughly tooth-shaped, with a broad bay indenting its south coast. It's low-lying and agricultural; Millport is a traditional "Glasgow Riviera" resort but is quiet and little developed compared to Ayrshire's other coastal towns.

Little Cumbrae a mile south across the channel of "The Tan" is rocky and barren. It's nowadays a private yoga retreat.

Cumbrae or Cumaradh means "place of the Cymric people" - so they spoke a P-Celtic language similar to Old Welsh, until this was replaced by the Q-Celtic of Gaelic.

Get in

1 Cumbrae Slip 3 miles north of Millport is where you arrive on the Calmac ferry from Largs. This sails year-round every 30 min daily, taking 10 min. Return fares until end of March 2025 are £15.20 per car, £4 per adult including the driver, and £2 per child aged 5-15.

Millport Motors Bus 320 shuttles between the Slip and Millport town every 30 minutes, more often at peak times, taking 10 min.

Get around

• Mapes on Guildford St and On Your Bike on Stuart St hire bikes. Both are open daily.

See

• 1 Cathedral of the Isles (Collegiate Church of the Holy Spirit), College St, Millport KA28 0HE. Scottish Episcopal (Anglican) cathedral, the smallest cathedral in Britain, built in Gothic revival style and opened in 1851. In the entrance porch are several Celtic crosses, found on the island in the 19th century. (updated Dec 2024)
• 2 Garrison House, Glasgow St KA28 0DJ, ☏ +44 1475 531381. Daily 10AM-4PM. Fine old building built in 1745 to house the Revenue officers of the sailing ship "The Royal George", which hunted smugglers. It's now mainly a community centre with a cafe. The small attached "Museum of the Cumbraes" may be open, otherwise just admire the facade and have a cuppa. (updated Dec 2024)
• 3 Crocodile Rock is a large rock on the foreshore painted with a crocodile's jaws. It was first painted circa 1913 and kept in good repair since. Other prominent rocks around the island have been similarly embellished.
• 4 Robertson Museum and Aquarium, Marine Parade KA28 0EG. Closed for reconstruction. Aquarium and museum showing local sea life. Specimens are caught by students and are returned to the sea after three weeks in the aquarium. (updated Dec 2024)
• 5 The Eileans is the imaginative name for the two outcrops in the bay off Millport. The name means "islands", which they are.

Do

• What's on? Read Largs and Millport Weekly News.
• Glaid Stone is the island's highest point of 417 ft / 127 m, with views over the Firth of Clyde. You can walk, cycle or drive up the narrow paved lane.
• Circle the island: it's 11 miles along quiet, level B-roads.
• Golf: Millport GC is on the ridge behind the town. White tees 5828 yards, par 68, visitor fee £35
• Scuba diving: Don't be alarmed if on the ferry you see people donning scuba kit: they're planning to dive onto the Catalina flying boat next to Cumbrae Slip. The Catalinas were based at Largs during World War II for Atlantic patrols, and this one made a rough landing and sank in 1943.
• Beach: Newton Beach in the bay by Millport is sandy and safe.

Buy

Bathing is safe at Millport

• There are small stores along the main street but no supermarket. People do their main shopping in Largs.

Eat

• Dancing Midge Cafe is on the sea front by Crocodile Rock, open F-M 9AM-3PM.
• Golden Dragon at 32 Glasgow St is open W-M 4:30-10:30PM.
• Round Island Cafe, 51 Stuart St KA28 0AJ, ☏ +44 1475 531193. F-Tu 1-11PM. Good reviews for food and friendly service. (updated Dec 2024)

Drink

• The Twa Dugs at 16 Stuart St is open daily 11AM-midnight.
• Newton Bar at 1 Glasgow St is open daily 11AM-1AM.
• Tavern Bar at 34 Glasgow St is open M-W 2PM-midnight, Th-Su 11AM-midnight.
• Distillery: Isle of Cumbrae Distillers make gin, tours available.

Sleep

View south from atop Great Cumbrae

• 1 Millport Pier Hotel, 1 Quayhead, Millport KA28 0AP, ☏ +44 1475 530675. Decent basic hotel, it's your best bet on Cumbrae, dog-friendly. Food served from noon, bar is open daily till midnight or later, live music at weekends. B&B double £90. (updated Dec 2024)
• Craigard House, ☏ +44 1475 530532. Small welcoming B&B on the seafront. (updated Feb 2023)
• The Cathedral, ☏ +44 1475 530353. This is open for B&B March-Nov whenever its 16 bedrooms are not being used for groups and retreats. B&B double £90. (updated Feb 2023)
• Caravans: Firth View Caravan Park half a mile west of town has static caravans as self-catering lets, but doesn't have tourer or camping facilities. It's open Mar-Dec.

Connect

As of Dec 2024, Great Cumbrae has 5G from EE, but only a patchy signal from Three and nothing from O2 or Vodafone. Largs on the mainland has a signal from all UK carriers so finish up any important calls there.

Go next

• You have to return by ferry to Largs. Once ashore, head to Ayr for the Robert Burns Heritage Area at Alloway.
• Other Clyde islands within easy reach are the Isle of Bute (ferry from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay) and Isle of Arran (ferry from Ardrossan to Brodick).