Largs
Largs is a seaside resort on the Clyde coast of Ayrshire, with a population of 10,900 in 2022. It’s where Viking power in Scotland was broken, at the Battle of Largs in 1263, and the Vikingar Exhibition is the town’s main attraction. Largs is the ferry port for the short crossing to the Isle of Great Cumbrae, and a base for exploring Ayrshire.
Understand
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The Battle of Largs was a small and indecisive affair, but it spelt the failure of a Norwegian sea expedition to re-assert their control in this region. They were beaten by storms more than Scots, in an era when climate change was sapping sea-borne power across the far north, and the Vikings disappeared from history to be replaced by Nordic nation states. Subsequently the Norwegians ceded Strathclyde, the Hebrides and the Isle of Man to Scotland, while retaining Orkney and Shetland. The Scots named the place An Leargaidh, “the slopes”.
Not much else happened in Largs for another 600 years, and then its fortunes rose as the city of Glasgow expanded, becoming a fashionable place for city merchants to have a country retreat. Lord Brisbane, governor of New South Wales, was born here in 1773, and the physicist Lord Kelvin lived here. In the 19th century Largs became part of the “Costa Clyde” or “Glasgow Riviera” — the string of small resorts such as Troon, Ayr, Girvan and Arran. It remains popular in summer with day-trippers from the city.
In 1944 King Haakon VII of Norway was in wartime exile in Britain and was made the first honorary citizen of Largs, just to let bygones be bygones.
Get in
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By plane: from Glasgow Airport (GLA IATA) take the local bus to Paisley then the train; or the airport bus into central Glasgow for buses and trains.
Prestwick Airport (PIK IATA) is closer but only has holiday flights to the Med. Take Bus 585 or the train as below.
By train: Trains run hourly from Glasgow Central, taking one hour via Paisley Gilmour Street, Kilbirnie, Kilwinning and Ardrossan. The last train leaves around 11PM. Change at Kilwinning for trains from Ayr, Prestwick, Troon or Irvine.
1 Largs railway station is central. There's a staffed ticket office and machines, toilets and a waiting room. There is step-free access to both platforms.
By bus: McGill's Bus 903 runs from Glasgow Buchanan station, taking 40 min via Braehead, Port Glasgow, Greenock, Inverkip and Wemyss Bay (for ferry to Bute). It runs every 30 min M-Sa and hourly on Sunday. Bus 901 is a slower route from Buchanan station via Greenock and Gourock (for ferries to Kilcreggan and Dunoon).
Stagecoach Bus 585 runs every 30 min from Ayr via Prestwick Airport and town, Irvine and Ardrossan (for ferry to Arran).
There's no bus station in Largs, the buses make several stops in town including the railway station and ferry pier.
By boat: see Great Cumbrae for the short ferry crossing to the island. You have to return the same way.
2 Largs ferry pier is 200 yards northwest of the railway station.
Get around
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Largs is relatively small and easily explored on foot. Taxi operators are Largs Central (☏ +44 1475 687119), Ravi's (☏ +44 7555 457337), Bond Cars (☏ +44 1475 670007, but there any similarity ends), Brisbane / Waterside Motors (☏ +44 1475 689990) and Barrys (☏ +44 7709 034761).
See
[edit]- The promenade has grand views over the Firth of Clyde towards Arran, Cumbrae, Bute and Argyll.
- 1 Vikingar!, Greenock Rd, Largs KA30 8QL, ☏ +44 1475 689777. Apr-Oct daily, Feb Mar Nov Sa Su.. This tells the story of the Viking period of Scottish history, visit by hourly guided tour. It's within a large leisure centre with swimming pool, sauna and gym. Adult £8, child £5.50.
- 2 Largs Museum, Manse Court, Largs KA30 8AW, ☏ +44 7712 039155. Apr-Oct. Volunteer-run display of local history.
- Largs Old Kirk behind the museum was demolished in 1802 when the new parish church opened, but its grounds (open May-Sep daily 2-5PM, free) contain two notable 17th-century tombs. The Skelmorlie Aisle is the ornate tomb of Sir Robert Montgomerie and his wife Dame Margaret Douglas (killed young in a riding accident). The Montgomeries lived at Skelmorlie Castle, some miles north of town, nowadays a private mansion which can’t be visited. The Brisbane Aisle is the 17th-century free-standing burial vault of the Shaws of Kelsoland.
- 3 The Pencil is a monument in the style of an Irish medieval round tower, built in 1912 to commemorate the Battle of Largs.
- 4 Kelburn Castle: how come Disney never thought of doing up his castle like this? Or Ludwig II at Neuschwanstein? It's a large house 2 miles south of Largs dating to 14th century but prettified into a "chateau" in 1700. The facade needed replacing in 2007 and its owner Lord Glasgow hired Brazilian graffiti artists who gave it a bold, jazzy makeover. Lips were pursed by heritage officialdom, but M'Lud won them over and the graffiti stays. The castle has tours in summer, the grounds are open daily all year (parking £5). The nearby Kel Burn is scenic, rushing down from the hills.
- Glengarnock Castle: see Kilbirnie for this battered medieval stump over the hills to the east.
Do
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- What's on? Read Largs and Millport Weekly News.
- Barrfields Pavilion is a 500-seat theatre just behind Vikingar off Greenock Rd, tel +44 1475 689777.
- 1 Sportscotland National Sports Training Centre, Burnside Rd KA30 8RW, ☏ +44 1475 674666. M-F 6AM-10PM, Sa Su 8AM-10PM. This has a gym, fitness suites and indoor sports hall, but no pool. Clubs based here include archery, badminton, football, judo and tennis.
- Amusement Arcades (as if, hypothetically, it would ever be wet and miserable on Largs prom) can be found at The Arcade and at Cullis's Amusements, both by the ferry pier. Clark's amusement area 200 yards north is outdoors.
- Football: Largs Thistle play soccer down in the amateur leagues, at Brisbane Rd 200 yards east of Vikingar.
- Golf: Largs GC is south end of town. White tees 6150 yards, par 70, visitor round £50.
- Routenburn GC is north, white tees 5604 yards, par 68.
- Greeto Bridge is reached by a 2-mile hike along the north slope of the Gogo Burn. Pick up the trail by following Gateside St then Flatt Rd east from town.
- Prophet's Grave is a bosky stroll starting two miles northeast off the lane up Noddsdale. William Smith was Largs church minister when plague struck in 1647, and many townsfolk fled to camp out in Noddsdale. He preached but never prophesied, so his own death from plague and posthumous reputation as a prophet were things he didn't see coming.
- Paddle Steamer Waverley calls at Largs in summer for sailings round the Firth of Clyde.
- Largs Live is a weekend music festival, with the next probably on 27-29 June 2025, tbc.
- Viking Festival is over a week, with a Viking village on the promenade and fairground. The next is probably Sa 30 Aug - Su 7 Sept 2025, tbc.
Buy
[edit]- The main store is Morrisons next to the railway station, open M-Sa 7AM-1PM, Su 8AM-7PM.
Eat
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- It's a beach resort, so there's lots of ice cream, fish & chips and other cheap eats, which the gulls will try to snatch off you.
- Nardini's, 2 Greenock Rd KA30 8NF, ☏ +44 1475 675000, info@nardinis.co.uk. W-Su 10AM-8PM. A must-try when in Largs, a renowned Art Deco cafe & ice cream parlour plus "Tony Macaroni" Italian restaurant and shop. But not the cheapest, the famous name and setting adds to the price tag.
- Nardini at the Moorings is their branch cafe at the ferry pier, open daily 8:30AM-5PM.
- Kohinoor is opposite the railway station at 43a Main St, open Tu-Su 4-10PM.
- Tinto Tapas Bar is at 1 Boyd St, corner with Gateside St, open daily 10AM-11PM.
- Room, 50 Gallowgate St KA30 8LZ, ☏ +44 1475 675767. Daily 11AM-midnight. Family-friendly restaurant with bar.
- The Catch at Fins is a seafood restaurant in Fairlie five miles south, see West Kilbride listing.
Drink
[edit]- Drouthy Neebors is a Belhaven pub next to the railway station, open Su-Th 11:30AM-11PM, F Sa 11AM-midnight.
- The George is at 17 Main St, open Su-W 11AM-8PM, Th-Sa 11AM-midnight.
- The Three Reasons is at 14 Gallowgate St, open M-Sa 11AM-midnight, Su 12:30-10:30PM.
- Ye Olde Anchor Inn is a friendly trad pub with an open fire, at 36 Gallowgate St just north of the ferry pier, open M-Sa 11AM-11:30PM, Su 12:30-10PM.
- The Paddle Steamer is a JD Wetherspoon next to the pier, open Su-Th 8AM-midnight, F Sa 8AM-1AM.
Sleep
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- 1 Dawn Break Guest House, 29 Irvine Rd, Largs KA30 8HS, ☏ +44 1475 689764. Hospitable immaculate place, no pets. Minimum 2 night stay. B&B double £110.
- 2 Peacock Guest House, 38 Charles St, Largs KA30 8HL, ☏ +44 1475 687205. Charming cosy B&B. B&B double £100.
- Haven House is a B&B at 18 Charles St, 100 yards west of Peacock GH.
- Broom Lodge is a B&B on the sea front at 5 Broomfield Place, 100 yards west of Haven House.
- St Leonards Guest House, 9 Irvine Rd, Largs KA30 8JP (200 yards south of station), ☏ +44 1475 673318. Great reviews for this welcoming B&B. B&B double £100.
- 3 Brisbane House Hotel, 14 Greenock Rd, Largs KA30 8NE, ☏ +44 1475 687200. Smart hotel with grand views across the water, re-opened under new owners in 2024. If you use their car park, however briefly and even with a disabled sticker, you must promptly register the car at reception or you'll be fined. B&B double £130.
- 4 Woodhouse Hotel, 2 Barr Cres, Largs KA30 2PX, ☏ +44 1475 673381. Clean welcoming place, dog-friendly. B&B double £110.
- 5 Willowbank Hotel, 96 Greenock Rd, Largs KA30 2PG, ☏ +44 1475 672311. Pleasant old-style small hotel. B&B double £140.
Stay safe
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Town centre is generally safe and well-policed, but late evening there's a few aggressive drunks and "neds" looking to pick fights.
Connect
[edit]As of Dec 2024, Largs and its approach roads have patchy 4G from O2 and Vodafone, and 5G from EE and Three.
Go next
[edit]- Take the ferry to Great Cumbrae. The island is easily cyclable, and buses meet the ferry and run to Millport.
- Little Cumbrae is a private yoga retreat, with a boat service from Largs for those booked on courses.
- The Isle of Bute is reached by ferry from Wemyss Bay. It can be day-tripped, but it’s worth a longer stay. Bute is also a stepping stone to Cowal and the Kintyre peninsula.
- Ayr is the best base for the Burns Heritage Museum at Alloway, and further south is Culzean Castle.
- The Isle of Arran deserves a few days to explore. Frequent ferries sail from Ardrossan.