Mogadishu

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Travel Warning WARNING: Scene of urban warfare for two decades and after many months of intense urban warfare between the government/AU troops and Islamic extremist faction al Shabab (which once controlled the majority of the city), Mogadishu is now under the control of the internationally-recognized Federal Government, AU peacekeepers, and Somali Armed Forces(SAF). Since the ousting of al Shabab in August 2011, the city has seen an intense period of reconstruction funded by the Somali diaspora and the international community. In fact the city is now safe enough for flights by Turkish Airlines. However, Mogadishu still remains dangerous due to high petty and violent crime rates. Although a fair amount of improvements have been made, there are still problems with basic services, like water, electricity, and law enforcement as well as a lack of facilities like hotels, restaurants, etc. The city also remains in great danger of suicide bombings and other terrorist attacks carried out by extremists who manage to get past the security checkpoints around the city. Walking the streets of Mogadishu remains very dangerous, even with armed guards. Tourists are emphatically discouraged from visiting Mogadishu for the time being, while business travelers should take extreme caution and make thorough plans for your trip! Travel outside Mogadishu remains extremely dangerous and should not be done for ANY reason! Those working for aid agencies should consult the security plans/advice of your organization. (Updated July 2012)
Cathedral ruins in Mogadishu

Mogadishu (Somali: Muqdisho; Arabic: مقديشو‎ Maqadīshū) is the official capital of Somalia, a major battleground of the civil war which has ravaged the country since 1991.

Understand[edit]

Mogadishu is huge city with a population of over 3 million people.

A devastating civil war has ruined this once beautiful city for almost twenty years now, leaving little but ruins left. Since 1991, various Islamist and/or clan or warlord-affiliated militias have had control over different parts of the city. A few months of relief were given in 2006 when the Union of Islamic courts took full control. Somalia was however invaded by Ethiopia just six months later and re-instated the western-backed Transitional Federal Government. The hard-line Islamist group Al-Shabab gradually took control over Mogadishu until the government only controlled a few square blocks. A counter-offensive, supported by large amounts of African Union troops cleared the city of militants in August 2011. Bombings and shootings are still commonplace but open warfare have for now ceased. There is currently reason for optimism, however, as in recent years foreign direct investment has increased, and at least twenty embassies have re-opened.

The book Black Hawk Down by Mark Bowden gives a detailed and a very accurate description of the lawlessness in Mogadishu during the early years of civil war.

Get in[edit]

By air[edit]

Flights once again arrive at MIA International Airport, also known as Aden Adde International Airport, just a few kilometers southwest of the city centre. Facilities are very basic, but the Turkish government has put up funds to renovate the airport and its security, control tower, and navigational systems. As of 2016, approximately one hundred flights operate to/from the airport daily.

Jubba Airways, the only Somali-based carrier, has services from Dubai, Jeddah, Nairobi, Djibouti, as well as domestically from Hargeisa and several other cities.

African Express Airways has services between Mogadishu and Abu Dhabi, Aden, Berbera, Bosaso, Dubai, Galkayo, Nairobi-Jomo Kenyatta, Riyan Mukalla, Sharjah, & Wajir.

Daallo Airlines has services to Djibouti stopping en route at Hargeisa.

East African also operates a weekly service from Nairobi on Sundays, the return flight stops in Wajir for security processing before continuing on to Nairobi.

Turkish Airlines now offers a twice-weekly service from Istanbul via Khartoum. Flights departs Atatürk Airport on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Roundtrip fares starts at €430.

By road[edit]

It is possible to drive into the city by truck, but this is considered a risky activity, unless you employ a group of local militia which are readily available for hire. Roads link the city with many Somali locales and with Kenya and Ethiopia. Armed guards, hired security forces, and experienced guides are all mandatory for a safe entry, and even then the risk of your being injured, killed or captured is extremely high.

By boat[edit]

Small cargo ships regularly leave from the Old Harbour of Mombasa for Mogadishu and sometimes Kismayo. Speak with the security officers at the gate of this tiny port and they will negotiate a fare with the captain. The journey will take 2-5 days, depending on conditions. The sea is rough in July–August, requiring lengthier travel. Arriving by boat is risky, as there is the strong possibility of being attacked by pirates, though the port area is relatively secure.

Get around[edit]

Roads are a muddy mess during rain, traffic lights do not always work and there are no enforced traffic laws or public transport. The road network in Mogadishu is slowly being repaired and paved. A vehicle with driver and armed guards is a must. Break-ins at intersections are possible, so avoid openly displaying anything that could be considered valuable by a Somali. Better still, hire an armoured vehicle with driver and guards.

See[edit]

Isbaheysiga Mosque
Telecommunication HQ mogadishu somalia
Beachfront resort Mogadishu Somalia.

Visitors should have a security guard accompany them.

  •   Arba-Rucun Mosque (Mosque of the Four Pillars). Owing to the city's Islamic heritage, one of few things the city's various warlords can agree on, this 1269 mosque has been luckier than the neighbouring cathedral, and is one of very few buildings in the historic center which is not a ruin. It's said to have been built by a direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed.
  •   Arch of Triumph (Arco di Trionfo Popolare). Triumph Arc built by the Italians in 1936.
  • Banadir Governor Office (ufficio Govorno). The government building where the governor stays. Nice for taking pictures or a talk with the friendly staff.
  • Black Hawk Down Crash Site. A security guard is absolutely required. Located inside The Bakara Market. There are Plans to collect the ruins in a safe area so that people can easily see it with out protection.
  • Jaziira Livestock market. Offers a booming camel market, as well as cows, sheep, and goats. Animals are fed before exporting them to Middle east Markets. You will find different breeds from the Somali Cattle breed to the Ethiopian Borana Cattle Breed.in the Camel market you can enjoy the fresh taste of the camel milk.
  •   Ruins of Mogadishu Cathedral. Built during the colonial years of Italian Somaliland, the Cathedral has barely survived the decades of civil war. It was badly damaged during fighting in the 1990s, then severely bombed by Islamists in 2008. Some stone walls and arches remain as testament to the old building. The new Somali Government has mentioned the possibility of rebuilding the Cathedral as a sign of religious harmony.
  • Mogadishu Lighthouse. Italian colonial lighthouse that has been in ruins since the war, yet still retains its charm.
  • Old Shanghai City.
  • Telecommunication Headquarter. Located near the airport, this place is secure, customer friendly and business oriented. You can visit them and enjoy the view of the beach from the top of the roof where you can see planes taking off and the Indian Ocean. Make sure you contact them in advance.
  • Jaziira Beach (south of the city). Lovely and quiet place with resorts, hotels and restaurants with a white, sandy, sunny beach that is popular with everyone. Attractions include a small island where you can take pictures and go for a boat ride.
  • Mogadishu Fish Market. Built with thanks to UK-Somalia, the fish market is thriving. For visitors who have seen the famous "Mogadishu Fish Picture" and want to try it for themselves, good luck.

Do[edit]

  • Liido Beach. Built for the Italian Colonialists, also known as Mogadishu Miami Beach. It is Popular with foreign tourists and overseas Somalis. The area offers cheap seafood, nice resorts, swimming and sandy Indian Ocean beaches. The famous Anglo-American Club is Located here.

Learn[edit]

The Mogadishu University is a non-governmental university that is governed by the Board of Trustees and the University Council. Admission requirements for the University as listed on their website include:

Original secondary school certificate plus one copy. Birth certificate. Certificate of good conduct. 12 photos (6 x 4) cm. Completed application form. Payment of the registration fee. Passing written and oral entrance examinations.

Benadir University was started in 2002 with the intention to train doctors but has expanded into other fields.

Buy[edit]

Bakaara Market
  • The Bakaara Market (Suuqa Bakaaraha) is an open market and the largest in Somalia. Created in late 1972 during the reign of Siad Barre, its original purpose was to allow proprietors to sell daily essentials. The civil war subsequently created demand for arms and ammunition. Everything from pistols to anti-aircraft weapons are being sold. Falsified documents are also readily available. Forged Somali, Ethiopian and Kenyan passports can be processed within minutes. This illicit sub-market is known as Cabdalle Shideeye after one of its first proprietors.

Most markets and especially the Bakaara Market are a focus of ongoing arms control efforts for the disarmament of Somalia. Marketplaces should be considered hazardous not only because of their content and the presence of some unsavory characters, but also because they have caught fire several times in the last few years.

Eat[edit]

International cuisine can be found at Nasa Hablod Restaurant inside Hotel Nasa Hablod and at the Sahafi Hotel. These are probably the safest options for travelers.

  •   The Village +252(0)616692309, e-mail: . Has several outlets, including at the airport. Main restaurant is centrally located next to the bus terminal.
  • Liido Seafood Restaurant. Offers both local and international delicacies, especially seafood related. Popular with foreign tourists.
  • Istanbul Restaurant. Serves both local and Turkish food.

Drink[edit]

Do note that Mogadishu being overwhelmingly Muslim has a social taboo against alcohol, as has the whole country

  • Abdille Nuradin's Bar (Infront of the STN Tele Comp). Opening Time 8AM/6PM. 1000 shln per drink.

Sleep[edit]

  • Aaran Guest House. Affordable, very foreign friendly, and excellent food. They take the safety of their customers to another level. Favored by UK travelers.
  • Al-furat Hotel. Located in the center of the city, just opposite the parliament building and along Number 4. The security is excellent and anyone entering the building is thoroughly searched, even laptops are inspected and switched on. Its restaurant is not the best and its pricey (this whole area of Mogadishu is up town and more expensive than other parts of Mogadishu). It offers good, fast internet connection, your room will have Satellite Tv, with 24hr room service, and rooms are comfortable, with good shower room.
  • Central Hotel. Cheap hotel, excellent food. It is where government elites come do business apart from their particular ministries.
  • City Plaza Hotel. This hotel is located in a very secure place, with excellent food, and is popular with UN workers, foreign workers, foreign tourists, and business people from abroad.
  •   Hotel Nasa-HablodKm 4 square (2 Km from International Airport),  +25261858440fax: +25262215943, e-mail: . Restaurant, meeting rooms, safe box, TV, internet access, air-con.
  • Hotel ShamoAddress. Large rooms, with air conditionned, wi-fi and electricity 24 hours a day. The restaurant is extremely decent, and serve lobster when available at the fish market. The hotel is also relatively safe. From $100.
  •   Jazeera Palace Hotel. By all accounts the best hotel in Mogadishu, frequented by business travelers and high-profile visitors alike. Security is a priority with walls that enclose the hotel as well as armed guards. Still, it was attacked in July 2015 by armed militants resulting in several causalities. The hotel includes two on-site restaurants.
  • Oriental Hotel. Offers excellent food and security. Just for business travelers.
  • Peace Hotel. This luxury hotel is located close to the airport with views of the Indian Ocean in a nice upper class neighborhood. It is popular with UN aid workers and foreigners, and has a focus on customer safety.
  •   Sahafi HotelAddress. One of the best hotels in Mogadishu. The manager is very helpful, the staff are attentive and the food is good. Although the compound is probably your safest bet, if there is such a thing, in Mogadishu a BBC producer was shot dead in front of the hotel in 2005, and two French citizens were abducted by gunmen in 2009.
  • Syl Hotel. A five star hotel where government dignitaries stay. Located near beach resorts, offering cozy rooms and conference rooms.

Stay safe[edit]

While significant improvements have recently been made, the city remains very dangerous for independent travel. Petty theft and violent crime remains a significant threat in a city which has effectively been in a state of war for nearly two decades and full of unemployed people with few possessions. Any white person and most other foreigners are thus regarded as wealthy and a target for crime. Do not wander the streets alone for any reason. If you must venture around the city, you should be accompanied by hired guards and ride in, preferably, an armoured car. Smash & grab break-ins are possible in non-armoured vehicles. With the security situation improved, there are likely to be new hotels opening...make sure yours has armed guards 24/7 and do not trust your valuables to be left in your room.

Basic services, such as water & electricity, are not reliable and you should not drink the water. Food and bottled drinks sold in the city may or may not be safe to consume. Try to get the advice of another foreigner who has been in the city a while. Health services are limited.

Go next[edit]

This city travel guide to Mogadishu is a usable article. It has information on how to get there and on restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.
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