Pinal de Amoles
Pinal de Amoles is a small colonial era town deep in the forested mountains of the Sierra Gorda range in eastern Queretaro. Naturalists will enjoy the dense forests, especially the spectacular range of wildlife inhabiting the nearby Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve. History buffs will want to explore the nearby five Franciscan missions of the Sierra Gorda that make up a 
UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is designated as one of Mexico's Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
[edit]The Sierra Gorda mountains were part of the historic range of the Huastec people and Pinal de Amoles is sometimes condidered the westernmost edge of the region Mexicans call La Huasteca. You may sometimes hear the Sierra Gorda referred to as La Huasteca Queretana (to differentiate it from parts of La Huasteca that lie in neighboring states). Although indigenous people live in Queretaro, it is unlikely you will meet any who identify as Huastec since they concentrate in Huasteca Potosina (and in one or two villages in northern Veracruz).
Get in
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By bus
[edit]Flecha Amarilla operates buses that pass through Pinal de Amoles en route to Jalpan or Queretaro. The bueses will stop to drop you off or pick you up in the downtown area. From Queretaro (main terminal) the bus takes 3 hours, 45 minutes to reach Pinal de Amoles and costs M$150. There is also one bus daily provided by Coordinados.
- 1 Flecha Amarilla bus stop, MEX-123 at Calle la Estacion. Buses between Jalpan and Queretaro briefly stop each hour. This is not a formal station and does not have ticketing or baggage services.
By car
[edit]From Queretaro, it is a 145-km trip to Pinal de Amoles. Most of the ride is on a modern toll highway (QRO-100) that will take about 2 hours 20 minutes.
The main highway passing through Pinal de Amoles is federal highway MEX-120.
Get around
[edit]The town is very small but a bit of a maze to navigate, with windy roads wrapping themselves around hills. It's cobblestone streets are enjoyable to walk and explore. A car or taxi will be needed to explore natural attractions or the region's historic churches. Taxis can usually be found at a sitio next to the Plaza Principal (Zocalo).
See
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- 1 Parroquia San José Pinal de Amoles, Plaza Principal S/N, Centro. 18th century with clean lines and a relatively sparse facade, the church is a peaceful oasis with a brightly colorful exterior and a main entrance directly on the Plaza Principal. A downtown landmark.
- 2 Glorieta los Mineros, Hidalgo 4, Centro. Memorial sculpture commemorating the region's historic role in building Mexico's mining industry.
- 3 Museo Pinal de Amoles (Museo Gral. Tomás Mejía Camacho), Mariano Escobedo, Centro. W-M 11:00 - 18:00, closed Tu. Small regional history museum with exhibits that cover the Sierra Gorda region, including its early settlements, natural resources, colonial era events (with axplanations of evangelization in the region and the role of the historic Franciscan missions. There are also some interesting natural history exhibits including fossils and minerals found in nearby mountains, and an aquarium with a rare axolotl. The museum hosts occasional readings and special events.
- El Quirambal, El Chuvele. Small Huastec archaeological site deep in a forested area. The site has not been restored and is not maintained. It has suffered vandalism from ignorant locals and foreigners alike. It does have a Mesoamerican ballcourt. (If you want to see a good Huastec site, visit Tamuín and don't expect to get much out of visiting Quiramba).
Do
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Pinal de Amoles is a playground for the active outdoorsman with ample opportunities for hiking, climbing, canyoning, mountain biking, camping, and birdwatching.
- Puente de Dios is a scenic hiking area along the Rio Escanela, about midway between Pinal de Amoles and Jalpan. 75 pesos to park and 175 pesos for a guide. The nature is beautiful, but guides hurry visitors along because of capacity controls and the popularity of the site creating too many visitors. Expect to get wet and wear non-slip shoes that can get soaked.
- Cascada El Chuveje is a popular hiking area through dense forests along the Rio Escanela. The highlight of the hike is a towering, single-drop waterfall with an idyllic calm pool beckoning visitors to dive in for a swim.
- Campamento Las Trancas is just outside town. It has camping facilities, including some cabins for rent, and has a 100-meter long zip-line that crosses a narrow gorge
- Cuatro Palos is an eco-tourist camping area that promotes low-impact recreational land use. Their campground includes dry composting toilets and solar panels.
Festivals
[edit]- March - Concurso Nacional de Bailes de Huapango - national championship to recognize dancers who practice the traditional huapango dance, which is associated with the Huastec culture.
Buy
[edit]Eat
[edit]- 1 Sabor de Casa, Calle del Hospital, ☏ +52 442 467 2950. Daily 09:00 - 19:00. Small homey restaurant with traditional Mexican dishes at reasonable prices. M$150.
- 2 Antojitos el Jardin, Benito Juarez, Centro, ☏ +52 441 114 6518. Daily 09:00 - 20:00. Super casual place serving traditional Mexican dishes and some regional favorites like the enchiladas queretanas. The gorditas de mijaja are recommended. M$150.
- 3 Mariscos el Chino, MEX-120, Centro, ☏ +52 441 119 3839. Daily 08:00 - 22:00. Despite the name, it's not really a Chinese restaurant. The food is traditional Mexican seafood with a preference for spicy dishes, like camarones al diabla. M$200.
- 4 Cocina de Magnolia, Cruz de Palo, Curva Colorada, ☏ +52 441 121 7203. Daily 09:00 - 21:30. Casual family-run restaurant serving traditional Mexican dishes. The chilaquiles are recommended. M$250.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]A number of camping areas and cabin rentals are available, particularly on the west side of town.
- 1 Villas y Hotel Mariana, La Dinamita, ☏ +52 441 292 5344. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Barebones budget hotel with minimal service and minimally furnished rooms. Location on the outskirts of town. M$600.
- 2 Hotel San Judas Tadeo Pinal de Amoles, Heroíco Colegio Militar #5, Centro, ☏ +52 441 100 9220. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Modest hotel with clean, but basic rooms. M$700.
- 3 Hotel Real de Mineros, Pinal de Amoles 2, Centro, ☏ +52 441 292 5117. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic hotel with off-street parking available.