Stockholm military tour
The Stockholm military tour describes military-related destinations in and around Stockholm.
| Walking tours in Stockholm |
Understand[edit]
- See also: Vikings and the Old Norse, Nordic history
Stockholm was founded in the 13th century around the Castle Tre Kronor (Three Crowns) to prevent pirates from sacking the lands around Mälaren. From the 16th century, Stockholm has been the country's undisputed capital, overseeing the rise and fall of the Swedish Empire in the 17th and 18th centuries. Sweden evaded both World War I and World War II, and had a world-class air force through the Cold War, until the 1990s, as most of the armed forces were dismantled. Re-armament began in the 2010s, with military service restored in 2017, and application for NATO membership in 2022.
Map of Stockholm military tour
The walk[edit]
- 1 Birger Jarl's tower (Birger Jarls torn). This tower got its name from the aforementioned Birger, due to a myth that he commissioned it; if true it would be as old as Stockholm itself. It is more likely built in the 16th century by bricks scavenged by Sancta Klara monastery on Norrmalm, but still one of Stockholm's oldest buildings. It is today the seat of Sweden's Chancellor of Justice. Not open to the public.
- 1 Västerbron. This 1935 arch bridge became Stockholm's first north-south bridge outside the Old Town. In 1993, it was close to be wrecked by an aircraft disaster. Since the 1930s, Sweden has had state-of-the-art military aircraft made by SAAB; the current model, the Saab 39 Gripen, known for its advanced control system, had its first public exhibition at a Stockholm festival on 8 August 1993. One of the planes stalled just above the crowded bridge, but as of a miracle, it crashed a few metres off the bridge in a park; the only injured person got burns from touching the wreck. As of the 2020s, Gripen is used by air forces around the world, including the Czech Republic, Hungary, South Africa, Thailand and Brazil.
- 2 Royal Guards (Kungliga Högvakten). The outer courtyard is the place for the changing of the Royal Guards (Högvakten). Until the 19th century, they were needed for policing and firefighting. They also had artillery; Sweden has been known for cannon-making for centuries, and four memorial m/1881 cannons (the first Swedish cannon made of steel) remain on the courtyard. Today, the Royal Guards are not a permanent organization; the honour is shared between different units of the Armed Forces. While they are primarily ceremonial, they have authority to use force, and do so against antisocial behaviour around the palace.
- 3 Gustavus Adolphus statue. Gustavus Adolphus II (reigning 1611–1632), is remembered as the Lion of the North, a formidable commander in the Thirty Years War. He died in the battle of Lützen on 6 November, 1632. The man depicted at the plinth is Chancellor Axel Oxenstierna, who founded most of Sweden's government agencies.
- 4 Gustav Adolfs torg. This square saw the resolution of a 1743 uprising by people of Dalarna called Stora daldansen (Great Dala Dance) due to the province's tradition of folk dance. In Dalarna, most of the land has been owned by peasants, rather than the nobility and the crown; and those peasants have rebelled against the government in Stockholm many times. In 1743, the people of Dalarna protested the government's restrictions on trade with Norway, and the lack of peasant representation. Hundreds of them, including armed soldiers, reached the capital on 22 June. A cavalry regiment struck them down, killing 150 people.
- 5 Karl XII:s torg (Charles XII square). King Charles XII (reigning 1697–1718), surrounded by four cannons. He spent his whole adult life at war. His soldiers, the legendary Caroleans, were usually outnumbered, but won many battles in the early stage of the war. He led a failed campaign in Russia, spent five years in exile in the Ottoman Empire, returned to war, and died in battle in Halden in Norway in 1718. From 1719, the Russians pillaged Stockholm archipelago, but failed to invade Stockholm. In the 1721 Nystad treaty, Sweden had to cede the Baltic provinces to Russia, which became the dominant power of the Baltic Sea, and enabled Russia's ruler Peter the Great to style himself the first Emperor of Russia.
- 6 Charles XIII statue. The statue further north in Kungsträdgården depicts Charles XIII (reigning 1809-1818) surrounded by four lions. He had to cede Finland to Russia, but in 1814, Sweden forced Norway into a union lasting until 1905. He was succeeded by Karl XIV Johan from the House of Bernadotte (mentioned above). The statue was nicknamed ett lejon mellan fyra krukor ("a lion between four pots"), while Charles XIII was called en kruka mellan fyra lejon ("a coward between four lions"), reflecting the late 19th century's public image of the two kings.
- 2 Skeppsholmen bunker. Skeppsholmen used to be the island of the navy. Today, most buildings are used for art and hospitality. The bunker contains a toy museum.
- 3 Kastellet. A citadel from the 17th century, which flies the naval flag, and is used for gun salutes. The building exploded in 1845 and was rebuilt in 1848.
- 4 Strandvägen 7 (Hotel Diplomat). In World War II, Germany occupied Denmark and Norway in 1940, while Finland was co-belligerent with Germany. Sweden remained non-belligerent, but made many concessions to Germany to keep peace, including iron export and passage of German troops to Norway and Finland. Stockholm became a haven for diplomats and spies. Östermalm was the embassy district, and the palace at Strandvägen 7 hosted several embassies; for the United States, Italy, Yugoslavia and Turkey, and the German military attaché. On the backstreet was the local branch of the German Nazi Party. While Sweden's business community remained pro-German well into the war, the Nazi ideology failed in Sweden. Since 1966, one wing of the building is a hotel, appropriately named Diplomat.
- 7 The Royal Mews, Väpnargatan 1. Guided tours and group visits only.
- 8 Army Museum, Riddargatan 13. Displays the history of war, focused on the rise and fall of the Swedish Empire during the 16th to 18th centuries, followed by Sweden's role in the shade of World War I, World War II in Europe and Cold War Europe. The museum makes a great effort of putting warfare into a broader social context.
- 9 General Staff building. A 1914 neo-Baroque building which has hosted various military functions.
- 10 Svea Artilleri. Artillery barracks from 1876. The Svea Artillery Regiment relocated to the suburb Rissne in 1949, and was disbanded in 1997. The buildings have hosted various military functions, though many of them have civilian tenants since the early 2000s.
- 5 Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet), Galärvarvsvägen 14. The Vasa was built for the Thirty Years War which sank in Stockholm Harbour on its maiden voyage in 1628, during the heyday of the Swedish Empire. Salvaged in 1961, the ship is almost wholly preserved, and is the only one of its kind and quality in the world. Since 1990, it is on display in a purpose-built museum, in an 1879 drydock of a navy shipyard which was decommissioned in 1969.
- 11 Cavalry barracks. Headquarters of the Swedish Armed forces. Limited public access.
- 12 Morgan the Horse's Grave. Morgan (1992–2008) was a showjumping horse who was assigned as a training horse at the cavalry. He was however ill-mannered, but his reputation gave him the honour to be buried at the cavalry barracks.
- 13 Norra Djurgården Dragon Teeth. A line of anti-tank obstacles built during World War II, many of them remaining today.
Outer Östermalm[edit]
- 14 Swedish History Museum (Historiska Museet). Describes Swedish history from the Ice Age to present day, with emphasis on the Middle Ages (1000-1500). The Gold Room has gold treasures from the Bronze Age to the 16th century. Since 2021, the museum has the world's largest Viking Age exhibition, World of Vikings, with genuine artifacts of the Viking Age, with an emphasis on society crafts, and faiths.
- 15 Garnisonen. A 19th century garrison building converted to offices.
- 16 Fredrikshov. Used by the military for various purposes.
- 17 Tre Vapen. An administrative building finished in 1943.
- 18 Dragongården. As of the 2020s, the embassy of China.
- 19 Swedish Veteran Monument (Östermalm). A ceremony is held here on the Swedish Veteran Day. While Sweden evaded the World Wars and the wars of the Swedish Empire are long past, many Swedish soldiers have served in international missions. Some notable assignments were the 1960 Congo crisis (see Congo-Kinshasa for the country today), and the Afghanistan war from 2001 to 2021. The monument was erected in 2013 to commemorate those veterans.
- 20 Maritime Museum (Sjöhistoriska museet), Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 24. Exhibits Sweden's long history as a seafaring nation. Remnants of the Amphion, an 18th-century Royal yacht, and a broad collection of scale models.
Outskirts of Stockholm[edit]
- 21 Garrison Hospital. Today used by the County Council.
- 22 Karlberg Palace (Karlbergs slott). The Karlberg Palace was built in 1632. Since 1792 it hosts the Military Academy, and the interior is usually not open to the public. The palace park is a pleasant place for picnics.
- 23 Pompe's grave. Grave of Charles XII's dog.
- 24 Russian walls. Built for the Great Northern War in the 18th century. Never finished.
- 25 Eriksdal. On the night of 22-23 February 1944, a number of Soviet bombers dropped bombs on Stockholm and other Swedish settlements. Seemingly, their orders were to bomb Turku, but due to navigation errors many of them ended up over Sweden. The Soviet Union denied the incident against overwhelming evidence.
- 26 Södersjukhuset. A hospital built for World War II, in which Sweden was never directly involved (except aforementioned incidents).
- 27 Tantolunden air defenses. Built for World War II in Europe.
Respect[edit]
Many Swedish military facilities have been decommissioned since decades. However, some of these facilities are still in use as of the 2020s, with a serious security protocol. Trespassing is a serious crime, and in some locations, photography is restricted.
Go next[edit]
- Stockholm's northern defenses are a line of forts from the mainland to the archipelago