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Amphoe Sungai Kolok

Su-ngai Kolok Checkpoint (ด่านสุไหงโกลก) seems livelier than Narathiwat town, probably because it is the largest border trading area in the province and cross-border traffic is common between Thailand and Malaysia. A bridge linking the 2 countries is open during 05.00-21.00 hrs. Thais like to cross to Rantu Panyang to buy electrical goods and snacks while Malays come to shop for food and fruits.

Su-ngai Kolok Checkpoint is around 1 kilometre from Su-ngai Kolok train station. From Narathiwat town, there are 2 routes. The first one is taking Highway No. 4055 (Narathiwat-Rangae) and turn left at Ban Manang Tayo and take Highway No. 4056 to Amphoe Su-ngai Padi into Su-ngai Kolok. The second route is taking Highway No. 4084 from Narathiwat town to Amphoe Tak Bai, and turn right to Highway No. 4057 (Tak Bai-Su-ngai Kolok) for 66 kilometres.

From Su-ngai Kolok Checkpoint, you can drive across the bridge to Kota Bahru in Malaysia, but each car must be insured (see details under Taba Checkpoint). For a border pass, call tel. 0 7361 4296.

Chao Mae Tomo Shrine (ศาลเจ้าแม่โต๊ะโมะ) is in Soi Phuthon, Charoen Khet Road, in Tambon Su-ngai Kolok Municipality. The figure used to be at Ban Tomo in Amphoe Su Khirin. Later villagers transferred it to Su-ngai Kolok. It is revered by locals and people in nearby provinces, as well as Chinese Malaysians. Every year there is a festival at the shrine on the 23rd day of the third month of the Chinese calendar (around April). Activities include a procession, lion parade, a fancy acrobatic stilts procession, a long drum procession, and walking over hot coal.

Sirindhorn Peat Swamp Forest Nature Research and Study Centre (To Daeng Peat Swamp Forest) (ศูนย์วิจัยและศึกษาธรราชาติป่าพรุสิรินธร หรือ ป่าพรุโต๊ะแดง) is the last remaining peat swamp forest in Thailand. It covers 3 districts; Tak Bai, Su-ngai Kolok and Su-ngai Padi. It has an area of about 192 square kilometres, but the most verdant area is around 80 square kilometres. That part still is rich in fauna and flora. Major waterways that pass through the area are Khlong Su-ngai Padi, Bang Nara River and Khlong To Daeng, which gives the forest its name.

The centre has arranged nature study treks to publicize knowledge about peat swamp forests. The walk starts from a swamp behind the research centre and continues on a wooden bridge into the forest for 1,200 metres. There is a part that is a wooden bridge suspended by metal slings and another is a high tower for viewing the lush scenery below. Signs tell information about interesting trees and there are some information posts for trekkers. The trail is open daily from 8 a.m.-4 p.m. It is free and an exhibition room is also provided for visitors.

How does a peat swamp forest occur? It originates from fresh water that is confined in limited space for a long period of time and the subsequent accumulation of organic matters in the soil like dead plants, trees and leaves. These matters are slowly transformed into peat or organic soil that is soft like sponge, has low density and absorbs water very well. In the area, peat is accumulated together with marine sediment to create 2-3 interlocking layers of both types of soil. This is because the sea level was high enough to cover the forest. Accumulation of sediment ensued and seawater was contained in the area. This resulted in the demise of plants in the forest and created a mangrove forest in place. When the water level receded and rain came, the water here became fresh water and the peat swamp forest occurred. The deeper soil layers date from 6,000-7,000 years, while the top layers are from 700-1,000 years.

The forest has a diverse ecological system. Every life is interconnected to each other. Trees have strong roots that spread out to those of other trees and help them to support their large trunks. Therefore, trees in the peat swamp forest will grow together in a group. If one falls, so will the others.

There are over 400 species of plants in the peat swamp forest. The most outstanding are strange palms like Lum Phi whose fruits can be eaten and red palm whose entire trunk is red in colour. Red palm is popular as a garden plant. Moreover, there are aromatic flowers like the Goniothalamus giganteus, a plant of the Annonaceae family that has large flowers. There are also orchids and an assortment of small plants that you must look carefully to find.

There are over 200 animal species in the forest. Small creatures are langurs, civets, wild cats, Singapore rats, and Malayan tree frogs. Large animals include wild boars and binturongs. A variety of fish also makes it home in the forest, including a certain species of catfish that can be raised in acidic water and the strange angler catfish that has a flat, wide head and a long body. This catfish has a poisonous spine in its dorsal fin. The fish uses the forest as a refuge and to spawn, and villagers catch for food when it is fully grown.

Birds here include the Rufous-tailed Shama that is mainly found in Sumatra, Borneo and Malaysia. It was first discovered in Thailand in 1987. The Malaysian Verditer Flycatcher is found only in Sirindhorn Peat Swamp Forest in Thailand. Both species are now endangered.

The forest in interesting not only because of its unusual flora and fauna, but also because of the overall unique experience that people, particularly children, are bound to receive when they pay a visit. The surrounding nature offers a constant stream of surprises. While trekking amidst a serene forest, you may encounter an animal grazing. Trails take you close to, but not overly interfering with, nature.

Things to take to enhance your appreciation of the forest are notebooks, colored pencils, binoculars, cameras, and mosquito repellent. With these items in hand, you can possibly spend a whole day of fun here. The cool climate of the forest is conducive to exploration. The best time to go is during February-April because there is little rain. The other months will see frequent rainfall due to the forest being situated on a peninsula.

Tourists should be careful of black mosquitoes that are a disease carrier, which are prevalent in the area and come out in the evening. Forest fire can happen as a result of smoking and discarding cigarette butts on the ground. When there is a forest fire in this forest, it is more difficult to put out because there is ample fuel in the form of trees, dead barks and organic matters in the ground. The fire will actually spread underground, making it extremely difficult to extinguish and control. The fire can last for months and the only way to put it out is to wait for heavy rainfall and the subsequent inundation should extinguish the fire.

Getting There: It is more convenient to come by train from Bangkok as the last station is at Su-ngai Kolok. If not taking your car, you can use the service of hired car from Su-ngai Kolok.

If driving, take Highway No. 4057 (Tak Bai-Su-ngai Kolok) for about 5 kilometres. There is a branch road to Chawananan Road for about 3 kilometres, and turn left for 2 kilometres. Signs show the way to the forest. For information, contact P.O. Box 37, Su-ngai Kolok, Narathiwat 96120.

Amphoe Sungai Padi

Chat Warin Waterfall (น้ำตกฉัตรวาริน) is at Tambon To Teng, not too far from town. Take Highway No. 4056 to Su-ngai Padi Hospital then turn left for 6 kilometres. The entrance is a good asphalt road in Budo-Su-ngai Padi National Park. This is a medium-sized waterfall that has water the year round and is shady from the many trees in the area.

The most striking plant here is the rare Bangsun Palm that is found in the jungle around 1,800 metres above sea level. It originates from Malaysia. The plant is a low tree but with many branches that are as high as 3 metres. The large diamond-shaped leaves are neatly arranged. The palm is regarded by many as the most beautiful palm in the world and is found only in this forest. The name “Bangsun Palm” was given by Professor Prachit Wamanon, advisor of the royal projects, when he inspected the area. He found the palm grown in a Muslim village. The professor saw that the leaf of the palm is similar to a “Bangsun,” a large umbrella used in processions. The locals call the palm Buke Ipae that means mountain centipede. This is probably because the flower is shaped like a centipede.

Amphoe Waeng

Sirindhorn Waterfall (น้ำตกสิรินธร) is not a waterfall that falls from a high cliff but is really a stream that comes down from a forest at a higher altitude. The falls feature a wide rock plateau suitable for relaxation. It converges with Khlong Aikading and is frequented by locals. Apart from the waterfall, there is the Southern Forest Flowers and Decorative Plants Survey and Collection Project under the Patronage of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. The project has more than 200 plant species that are grouped according to their natural habitat. Signs provide plant names and useful information. Plants here are both interesting in terms of local botany and breeding to develop as decorative and economic plants. The project is open during 08.30-16.00 hrs.

Getting There: The waterfall is around 7 kilometres from Amphoe Waeng on Highway No. 4057, then turn left onto Phua Khwam Man Khong Road for around 8 kilometres and another 300 metres from the entrance to the waterfall.

Hala-Bala Wildlife Reserve (เขตรักษาพันธุ์สัตว์ป่าฮาลา – บาลา) is a new conservation area of Thailand. It was officially established in 1996. The reserve is near the Thai-Malaysian border and has an area of around 433.16 square kilometres. It covers the Sankala Khiri mountain range, Hala forest and Bala forest that are deep forests not connected to each other but are part of the same reserve. Hala forest is in Amphoe Betong in Yala and Amphoe Chanae in Narathiwat. However, the only part open to the public is Bala forest that covers Amphoe Waeng and Amphoe Su Khirin in Narathiwat.

Highway No. 4062 (Khwam Man Khong Road) goes through Sankala Khiri mountain range, making access to the reserve easier. You can start at Ban Buketa in Amphoe Waeng, go through Bala forest and end up at Ban Phu Khao Thong in Amphoe Su Khirin for a total distance of 18 kilometres. On both sides of the road are the most verdant jungles in Thailand. To study nature here, you only have to drive through the area and you will likely see many extraordinary things from the park office on.

Approximately 5 kilometres from the office, there is a point to view wildlife. Many Banyan trees grow in the area and animals regularly come to feed off the fruits of the trees. About 10 kilometres further in is the Phu Khao Thong Protection Unit, which is a sub-office of the reserve, located on the road. From here you can see a sea of mist. If you walk about 100 metres from the unit, you will find a gigantic Somphong or Kraphong tree that has a diametre of 25 metres. The height of a section near the ground that supports the trunk is about 4 metres. This tree likes to grow near water and is a softwood tree that is used in making toothpicks or matches.

Along the way you will several plants not commonly seen elsewhere in Thailand, like the Yuan tree of the bean family that stands proudly and can be seen at a distance from the road. It has a white trunk and it can reach a height of 65-70 metres. It is regarded as the third tallest tree in the world, the redwood and eucalyptus being first and second, respectively. It is usually used to make furniture. The Saya tree of the rubber family is the most striking of the Hala-Bala forest. From the viewpoint, you can see the tops of many of the trees. If you look carefully, you will see hornbills as the trees are their preferred nesting sites. The Hua Roi Ru Nam tree is one of the newest plants found in the country.

Wildlife here creates an ecological balance for the area. Many of the animals are now rare in Thailand, like the large black gibbon or Sia Mang that is totally black in colour and nearly double the size of the white-handed gibbon. There is also the agile gibbon that is usually found on Sumatra, Borneo and northern Malaysian jungles and southern Thailand. You may be lucky and find two of these creatures hanging from a branch. The area also has Thut frogs that are the largest frogs in the country. It is about a foot long and weighs over 5 kilograms. The frogs live in watershed forests on high mountains. A survey found that in the area are 4 protected mammals, which are the Sumatran serow, tapir, marbled cat, and Asian two-horned rhinoceros.

The hornbill is an indicator of the state of the forest and is a rare bird. Nonetheless, the reserve has up to 9 out of 12 species of hornbills in Thailand, which are the wrinkled hornbill, helmeted hornbill (the only kind of hornbill that has a thick upper beak and Indonesian villagers hunt it to get the beak to carve into ornaments like ivory), Oriental pied hornbill, great pied hornbill, white-crowned hornbill, bushy-crested hornbill, Malayan rhinoceros hornbill, black hornbill, and wreathed hornbill.

Persons wishing to enter the area for nature study must write to the reserve at P.O. Box 3, Amphoe Waeng, Narathiwat 96120 or the Wildlife Reserve Department of the Natural Resources Conservation Office, Royal Forest Department, Bangkok.

Facilities : As the reserve is a sensitive area, tourists are not permitted to stay overnight there.

Getting There: You can hire mini-buses from Amphoe Waeng Market or from Su-ngai Kolok train station.

The best time to study nature here is from late February to September when there is little rain.

Sleep

Genting 250 Asia Road 18 (Tel: 0 7361 3231-40) 234 rooms: 550-720 baht

Grand Garden 66 Soi 3 Prachawiwat (Tel: 0 7361 3600-5, 0 7361 3501-4) 118 rooms: 650-2,000 baht

Krung Thong House 143 Vithiuthok Road (Tel: 0 7361 1511, 0 7361 2662) 23 rooms: 200 baht

Come In 48 Surirong Road (Tel: 0 7361 1187) 20 rooms: 200-300 baht

Chonun House 43/5-6 Soi Phuthon Chareonkhet Road (Tel: 0 7361 1421) 23 rooms: 130-280 baht

Savoy 8/2 Chareonkhet Road (Tel: 0 7361 1093) 27 rooms: 130 baht

Taksin 1 30 Prachawiwat Road (Tel: 0 7361 1010, 0 7361 1083) 39 rooms: 110-280 baht

Taksin 2 Prachasamran Road (Tel: 0 7361 1088) 49 rooms: 180-430 baht

Thai Laem Thong 193/8 Prachawiwat Road (Tel: 0 7361 1094, 0 7361 2387) 34 rooms: 200-350 baht

Thai Eak 43 Wongwithi Road (Tel: 0 7361 1052, 0 7361 3136) 37 rooms: 220-320 baht

Thani 4/1 Chunmankha (Tel: 0 7361 1241) 52 rooms: 120-220 baht

Tara Regent 45 Soi Phuthon Chareonkhet Road (Tel: 0 7361 1801-2) 119 rooms: 350-450 baht

Nam Thai 2 93-95 Soi Phuthon Chareonkhet Road (Tel: 0 7361 1163) 37 rooms: 120-250 baht

Parkson 501 Soi Phuthon Chareonkhet Road (Tel: 0 7361 2789-90) 40 rooms: 380-420 baht

Plaza 2 Thetpathom (Tel: 0 7361 3403, 0 7361 1875-6) 94 rooms: 400-650 baht

Phiman 76/4 Chareonkhet Road (Tel: 0 7361 1464) 17 rooms: 200 baht

My House 98/34 Saritwong Road (Tel: 0 7361 1069, 0 7361 3569) 24 rooms: 200-280 baht

Marina 173 Soi Phuthon Chareonkhet Road (Tel: 0 7361 3881-5) 180 rooms: 700-1,500 baht

Madi 19/4 Chunmankha Road (Tel: 0 7361 1214, 0 7361 1122) 27 rooms: 140-250 baht

Merlin 68 Chareonkhet Road (Tel: 0 7361 1003, 0 7361 1431) 96 rooms: 410-550 baht

--(WT-en) globe-trotter 19:48, 5 February 2010 (EST)