Tashirojima (田代島) is a small island in Miyagi, Japan that has been overrun by cats.

Understand

Like many rural areas of Japan, Tashirojima is slowly disappearing. At its height, the population was around 1,000; today, it is home to about 100 people, many of them elderly. The port area is in reasonably good condition, but heading up the hill into the forest reveals a number of abandoned and partially collapsed buildings.

Enter the cats. Various stories exist as to why there are so many of them; whether the cats are the cherished friends of the island's fishermen, the bearers of good luck, or the descendants of abandoned pets, felines now vastly outnumber humans on Tashirojima. The bemused islanders appear to have set aside an older manga-based tourism campaign and fully embraced the cat island concept.

Get in

Ferries run from Ishinomaki three times daily (¥1230). (Note that the third ferry arrives too late for a same-day return.) The Ajishima ferry office can be reached by taxi, bus from JR Ishinomaki Station (to Ajishima-mae) or by walking east from the station until you reach the river, then turning right and following the river until you reach the Ajishima office (about 30 minutes). They hand out maps of the island which help to get around.

The crossing takes about 45 minutes. Disembark at Nitoda (仁斗田), the second stop on the island. Disembarking at Oodomari (大泊) is also an option if you would like to walk from the top to the bottom of the island.

Get around

Visitors should plan to walk everywhere. Two hours is enough time to make some furry acquaintances, amble uphill to the Cat Shrine, and return to the port. Walking along some of the longer paths on the island would require a longer stay. If you see a bus, it is likely to be the Catbus from My Neighbor Totoro which may have a stop on Tashirojima.

See

Cat Shrine

Unless you're arriving on a fishing boat, you won't see many cats until you've left the immediate port area. They wander and lounge freely among the houses, anywhere there might be a handout, and show varied levels of interest in visitors. If you come bearing treats, they will find you.

• 1 Cat Shrine (猫神社 Neko-jinja). It is a steep hike uphill from the port, past the last few houses (and an abandoned school) and then a short distance into the forest. The path is well marked. It has a small gate and shrine covered in offerings and cat figurines. (updated Sep 2015)

Do

• Feed the cats. This course of action will be very well-received.
• Pet the cats. This privilege may be granted to those who are patient.
• Mediate arguments between cats. Certain intractable feuds have developed over time between the feline residents of the island. It is probably for the best that you avoid becoming entangled in these. At best, a temporary peace can be achieved by scattering treats. However, scattering treats too sparingly can just be an additional reason for a quick paw to the head.

Buy, Eat & Drink

Store on Tashirojima

Aside from a couple of vending machines here and there, there is only one shop on the island, a short distance uphill from the port. The lights may not be on, but as long as the door is unlocked, it's open. (The elderly proprietor may be watching soap operas in the other room.) It has some basic snacks.

There is a cafe selling food situated just north of the old school, on the road between the two villages. It also sells cat t-shirts and other miscellaneous items and hosts a photo exhibition of the island's cats.

Sleep

• There are a couple of minshukus on the island, including Hamaya (¥8500 w/meal). But don't arrive without a reservation (or, at the very least, confirmation that it's open that day). Tashirojima does not see many overnight visitors.

• From April to October, the "manga resort" in one corner of the island is open and rents cat shaped cottages (sleeping 6-8) and campsites.

Stay safe

Sensibly enough, dogs are prohibited. Mice would be extremely well-advised to stay away.

As cute as the cats may be, these are semi-feral strays with claws; take care when letting kids approach them, and be prepared to clean and bandage any scratches.

Go next

Had your fill of cats? Try Okunoshima, which is overrun with rabbits.