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Bustling Jalan Tun Sambanthan, Brickfields

Brickfields is known as the biggest Little India of Kuala Lumpur and located just south of the City Centre. Along the main road, Jalan Tun Sambanthan, Indian shops abound, selling Indian clothing, provisions and food whilst the surrounding area is home to both budget and luxury accommodation. Brickfields is also home to the massive KL Sentral, with major transportation links around Kuala Lumpur and beyond. The area east of the Klang River, Robson Heights, is also covered here.

Bangsar a residential area, which is very popular with expats, has some notable restaurants, shopping malls and bars.

Understand

In the late 1800's, Kuala Lumpur experienced a huge flood and fire that destroyed the many wooden and thatched houses that were common at the time. To prevent such a disaster reoccurring, Sir Frank Swettenham, the British resident of Selangor, ordered that all new structure be made of bricks within Kuala Lumpur. As the area now known as Brickfields was a clay-rich area it was chosen as the site for brick-making. As a result Kuala Lumpur was rebuilt and the area was named Brickfields.

The area of Brickfields was also home to the main depot of the Malayan Railways during British rule. The benefit of having rail transport at Brickfields was that bricks could then be carted to the depot for transport to Kuala Lumpur, or to the Klang river for transport by barge. To maintain the locomotives and the depot, the British brought people from Sri Lanka and South India. Many workers were housed in the area, which is why to this day the Indian community is so prominent in Brickfields.

Whilst previously deemed a less savoury area, today Brickfields has undergone a makeover with the construction of KL Sentral, the modern transportation hub of Kuala Lumpur that was built over the old railway depot. The KL Sentral area has a collection of tall office towers surrounding KL Sentral railway station. In 2009, Brickfields officially became the new Little India of Kuala Lumpur, taking the title from the area around Jalan Masjid India in the Tuanku Abdul Rahman district. This decision was made as the area is considered a pioneering Indian settlement that helped Kuala Lumpur become what it is today. Both neighbourhoods have significant Indian influence and are worth a visit if you have the time.

Get in

The area south of the city centre is fairly easy to reach from anywhere in Kuala Lumpur as the main transportation hub, 1 KL Sentral, is located here. Multiple train and bus services pass through KL Sentral and are the cheaper options, whilst those who can afford it will find a plethora of taxis available.

By train

KL Sentral concourse level

Almost all train lines, except the Ampang and Sri Petaling LRT lines, pass through KL Sentral in Brickfields. The Kelana Jaya LRT line passes directly through KL Sentral in Brickfields and can be reached from the Golden Triangle area at KLCC station, Kampung Baru and Dang Wangi stations for the Tuanku Abdul Rahman/Chow Kit districts and Pasar seni or Masjid jamek stations for Chinatown, the Central Markets and the Old City area. If near the Ampang and Sri Petaling LRT lines it is possible to connect to KL Sentral by transferring to the Kelana Jaya line at Masjid Jamek.

Another option is to take the 2 KL Monorail, which terminates at KL Sentral monorail station, about 200m from the actual KL Sentral complex. To transfer from the monorail station requires you to cross Jalan Tun Sambanthan, walk around the building site, along a carpark on the right and into an undercover road. Take the escalators or stairs and you will be in the KL Sentral complex. The other monorail station in this district is Tun Sambanthan station located on the banks of the Klang River behind the shopping area of Brickfields.

The cheapest and arguably the less reliable option is the KTM Komuter service, with two lines passing through KL Sentral. Convenient to use if in the suburbs of Kuala Lumpur and from the western side of the Old city area at Bank Negara station and the moreish colonial-style old Kuala Lumpur station.

The Express Rail Link, with train services from Kuala Lumpur International Airport, has KLIA Ekspres and KLIA Transit services terminating at KL Sentral. Ekspres services run non-stop to KL Sentral whilst Transit services also stop at Salak Tinggi, Putrajaya/Cyberjaya and Bandar Tasik Selatan stations.

By bus

Many buses go through Brickfields and Bangsar. The ones going into town terminate at Kota Raya or Klang bus stand. Buses heading out of town serve Mid Valley, Pantai Dalam and some PJ areas. All the Rapid buses now pass through KL Sentral.

Get around

Brickfields is one area of KL that needs to be explored on foot. Moreover, there is a walking route from here via Sentral railway station to the National Museum, then via the Lake Gardens to the Islamic Arts Museum, the Bird Park and the Butterfly Park.

The commercial district of Bangsar with all the shops and restaurants is around 1.5km northeast of the train station.

See

Brickfields

• 1 Little India. Beautifully restaurated street with all types of Indian shops and restaurants. (updated Jun 2017)

• 2 Buddhist Maha Vihara, 123 Jalan Berhala, ☏ +60 3 2274 1141, info@buddhistmahavihara.org. 10:00-18:00. Founded in 1894 by the Sinhalese to provide a place of worship for their Sri Lankan Theravada tradition, this beautiful temple with echos of colonialism in the architecture sill supports an active Buddhist community in Kuala Lumpur. (updated Apr 2017)

• 3 Sri Kandaswamy Kovil, Lorong Scott 3, ☏ +603 2274 2987, e.enquiries@srikandaswamykovil.org. Opened in 1890 this Tamil temple is located in at the eastern end of Jalan Scott. Photography and videography is no allowed within the temple. (updated Apr 2017)

Seputeh

Thean Hou Temple with city skyline in the background

• 4 Thean Hou Temple, 65 Persiaran Endah (off Jalan Syed Putra), ☏ +60 3 2274 7088. One of the largest and most ornate Chinese temples in the region. The six-tiered temple was built by the Hainanese community and is dedicated to Tian Hou, or The Heavenly Mother. But, as an example of the syncreticism of Chinese religion, also houses two other altars, one for Shui Wei Sheng Niang, the Goddess of the Waterfront and another for Kuan Yin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Its grand architecture and fantastic view of the Valley make it a tourist favourite. (updated Apr 2017)

Bukit Persekutuan

• 5 Galeria Sri Perdana, ☏ +60 32072 0033. 10:00-17:30; Fr 10:00-12:00,15:00-17:30; Mo off. The building, where this museum is housed, was the former official residence of Tun Dr. Mahathir Mohamad, the fourth Prime Minister of Malaysia. Free. (updated Jun 2017)

Do

• 1 Cycle or hike on SWBC (South West Bicycle Corridor). If you need a break from the city hustle and bustle then try this: Walk or cycle on the Mid Valley-Dataran Merdeka Bike Lane, which was inaugurated in 2015. You can venture either towards the Mid Valley shopping mall (the largest in KL) or to Merdeka Square. (updated Apr 2017)

Buy

It's one extreme or the other. Brickfields' new shopping centre, 1 Nu Sentral, is a glitzy multi-story affair adjoining the railway station - many familiar Western chains are here. Altogether more fun however are the 2 little Indian shops outside, selling everything from saris and other textiles to spice and jewellery.

It wouldn't be KL, if there weren't more malls in this area though:

• 3 Megamall & The Gardens, ☏ +60 32938 3333. 10AM–10PM. Arguably the largest mall in Kuala Lumpur. (updated Jun 2017)

• 4 Bangsar Village II, 1, Jalan Telawi 3. 8:30AM–10PM. Another mall in the heart of Bangsar commercial district. (updated Jun 2017)

• 5 Bangsar Shopping Centre, Jalan Maarof. Poshy mall for the rich and beautiful (or wannabe's). (updated Jun 2017)

Eat

Brickfields

Banana leaf rice

As Brickfields is the Little India of Kuala Lumpur there is one thing you can easily find, Indian Food. One particular speciality found throughout Brickfields is the South Indian banana leaf rice, where white rice is served on a banana leaf with an assortment of curries, vegetables, pickles and papadums. Although traditionally eaten with your hands do not hesitate to ask for cutlery if you prefer and you may even be offered them without having to ask. Banana leaf rice is a very cheap, extremely filling meal and a must try experience in Brickfields. To show appreciation after a satisfied meal, fold the banana leaf towards yourself to signify that you enjoyed the meal.

There are also several Chinese coffee shops offering the usual types of food. There are also the usual fast food suspects to be found within Brickfields. At KL Sentral you can find KFC, McDonalds, Burger King, and coffeeshops such as Coffee Bean, Starbucks and Secret Recipe. One the top floor of KL Sentral there is also a food court. There is also a separate KFC located within the streets of Brickfields. At the other end of the budget, KL Sentral's two five-star hotels have international-standard restaurants where you can dine in style in their many restaurants and establishments.

Budget

• Annalakshmi Vegetarian Restaurant, 116 Jl Berhala, ☏ +60 3 2274 3799. Famous vegetarian restaurant located at the Temple of Fine Arts, with occasional cultural shows. Food was previously priced based on a pay-as-you-wish model, but the restaurant now charges set prices for food. Menu consists of buffet lunch, rotis for breakfast/tea and ala carte for dinner. Dress code: No shorts/slippers. RM 10+ for lunch or dinner. 

• Chat Masala, 259G Jl Tun Sambanthan, ☏ +60 3 2260 3244. This vegetarian restaurant serves mock meat. Go for the "mutton" or "chicken" briyani, tea-time specials like pani puri or bhel puri, then wash it down with filter coffee. RM 10 for lunch or dinner. 

• Kaveri, Jl Padang Belia (Between Summer View hotel and the YMCA). Open fronted restaurant with friendly staff. Serves a variety of Indian foods, plenty of meat dishes, as well as a number of vegetarian options. RM1 for roti canai, RM4-5 for meat. 

• Restoran Nagas, 3339 Jl Tun Sambanthan. 24 hours. A self serve modern mamak that serves Indian and Malay food including roti, nasi lemak, tandoori, curries and Indian sweets. RM 10 for lunch or dinner. 

• Saravanaa Bhavan, 196 Jl Tun Sambanthan, ☏ +60 3 2260 3755. Clean restaurant serving authentic South Indian cuisine. All food is vegetarian. RM13 for set meal of rice, papadum, chapati and a selection of 10 chutneys and dhals. 

• Vindya Curry House. Authentic Indian curry of every variety. RM4.50-RM8. 

• Vishalatchi Food Catering, 18 Jl Scott. Specialises in authentic Chettinad cuisine served on banana leaf. Try the idli or puri for breakfast. RM10. 
• 1 Jaya, Jalan Thambipillay 51, ☏ +603 2274 2625. 07:00-23:00. Great selection of Indian dishes. Very fresh ingredients. Especially the lunch buffet is highly recommended. RM8-14 for an average lunch w/o drinks. (updated Apr 2017)

Splurge

• Al Nafourah, 8th Floor, 2 Jl Stesen Sentral (Le Meridien), ☏ +60 3 2263 7888. Lunch: 12:00 -14:30; Dinner: 18:30-23:00. The restaurant decor is Middle Eastern with large brass ornaments adorning the entrance and walls, colourful floor tiles and Moorish architecture. Lebanese cuisine, Middle Eastern belly dancer moves to sultry music. Tagine and kebab dishes, buffet with array of cold presentations, hummus, Middle-Eastern salads, condiments, soups, breads and roast lamb. The main dish comes with a selection of kebabs served with saffron ghee rice or grilled vegetables. Semi Buffet RM108. 

• Chynna, 5th Floor, 3 Jl Stesen Sentral (Hilton Kuala Lumpur), ☏ +60 3 2264 2264. Lunch: 11:00-14:30; Dinner: 18:00-23:00. Wonderfully over-the-top modern Chinese restaurant that looks like it just stepped out of a kung-fu movie, with waitresses in thigh-slit cheongsams and plaited houseboys serving herbal tea from a pot with a meter-long spout. The menu is equally eclectic: try the pumpkin and shrimp dumplings or the chicken feet in black bean sauce, then finish off with coconut ice cream in avocado sauce. Lunchtime dim sum dishes a reasonable RM8-11 each, but dinner is far more expensive. 

Bangsar

Bangsar has a wide range of restaurants.

• 2 Devi's Corner, 14 Jalan Telawi 4, ☏ +60 12267 6714. Great banana leaf restaurant on the first floor of this mamak stall. (updated Jun 2017)
• 3 La Bodega Deli, 16 Jalan Telawi 2, ☏ +60322870848. If you crave for English or American breakfast this is the place to go. (updated Jun 2017)

Drink

• Zeta Bar, 5th Floor, 3 Jalan Stesen Sentral (Hilton Kuala Lumpur), ☏ +60 3 2264 2592. 20:00-02:00 daily. Located in the hilton and feature live bands at night. Great for music lovers and those wanting to experience the club scene. Drinks RM25-75. 

Sleep

Brickfields contains two extremes of accommodation - sleazy hole in the walls which only rent out rooms on an hourly basis (mostly in the old Brickfields area), and the two of KL's newest five-star hotels within KL Sentral.

Budget

• 1 Joy Inn, Jalan Thambypillai, ☏ +60 32276 3766, booking@joyinnhotel.com. Very new hotel built on top of grocery store. The rooms are small but comparable to other hotels in the area. RM88. 

• 2 PODs The Backpackers Home, 1-6, no 30 Jalan Thambipillay, 50470 Brickfields (Locate the KL Sentral Monorail. Walk to the back of the monorail, and the place will be on your right), ☏ +60 3 2260 1434. Check-in: 1pm, check-out: 12pm. Opened in April 2011, convenient location, comfortable and clean. Free wheelie tours offered weekly and a very interesting open stage event every first Friday of the month. Comes with a free breakfast, bunk beds, single and double pods. RM35 - RM75. 

• 3 YMCA Hostel, 95 Jalan Padang Belia, ☏ +60 3 2274 1439, ymcakl@ymcakl.com. Like most YMCA Hostels this one feels sterile, It is clean and safe. Make sure to check their website for guest restrictions. single or double RM110. 
• 4 Flip Bunc KL Sentral, Jalan Padang Belia 76-1 (Close to the YMCA hostel), ☏ +60 32273 5433, hello@flipsbunc.com. Newly opened hostel (in March 2017). Good online ratings. 

Mid-range

• 5 Hotel Sentral, 30 Jalan Thambypillai, ☏ +60 3 2272 6000, hsminfo@hsm.my. Nice and clean hotel with good online ratings. RM160-200. 

• 6 My Hotel @ Brickfields, Jalan Padang Belia 68, ☏ +60 3 2272 6000, enquiry2@myhotels.com.my. RM100+. 

Splurge

• 7 Hilton, 3 Jalan Stesen Sentral, ☏ +60 3 2264 2264, Reservation.kl@hilton.com. New hotel adjacent to the KL Sentral train station and the Le Meridien. The Hilton has rooms with open bathrooms and plasma TVs. Plenty of restaurants and a executive lounge on the 33rd floor. Gym and spa/pool complex.  

• 8 Le Meridien, 2 Jalan Stesen Sentral, ☏ +60 3 2263 7888. Adjacent to the KL Sentral train station. Opened in 2004, has a splendid lobby and modern rooms with views of the nearby gardens (or the roof of KL Sentral if you pick the wrong side). Shares spa and pool facilities with the Hilton next door.