Vitória
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- For other places with the same name, see Vitoria (disambiguation).
Vitória, the small and cozy capital of Espírito Santo, is a city on the southeast coast of Brazil, famous for its beaches and culture, and for its proximity from many other tourist destinations in the state. Most of the city's neighborhoods are surrounded by parks and forests and many cultural events add an extra bliss to the city throughout the year. One might also consider staying in a hotel in Vitória while visiting nearby cities and regions of interest during the day like Vila Velha, Guarapari, Domingos Martins, or Serra, all of them with many attractions less than 2 hours away by car or bus. Vitória is also a perfect stop for travelers planning to go from the state of Rio de Janeiro or east of Minas Gerais by bus or car to beach destinations in the south of Bahia, like Prado, Caravelas and Abrolhos, or even Porto Seguro.
Understand
[edit]Vitória, with around 360,000 people (2015), is considered by the UN to be the fourth best place to live in Brazil.
History
[edit]Founded in 1551, is the third oldest capital of Brazil, after Salvador and Recife. For a long time it was only a ‘city-port’, suffering various French, British and Dutch attacks, after sugar and ‘pau-brasil’.
Its name is attributed to a victory over the native Indians, when, seeking refuge, the Portuguese fled to the island, and then achieved victory, renaming the village, at the time known only as “Vila Nova”, to “Vila Nova da Vitória”. It has many nicknames, like Ilha do Mel (Honey Island), Cidade Sol (Sun City) and others.
Geography
[edit]It is located in the southeastern region of Brazil, the most developed in the country. It is close to the big urban centers, being on average, one hour away by plane from São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Belo Horizonte.
Circled by the Bay of Vitória, the main island has mangroves, beaches, granite formations and many smaller islands.
The municipality of Vitória is made of an archipelago with 34 islands and a continental area. Its total area is 104 km², including the main island, the continental area, the coastal islands and the oceanic islands of Trindade and Martin Vaz. It used to have more than 50 islands, but now many of them have been incorporated, by landfills, to the main island.
The highest point is the Maciço da Fonte Grande, a granite formation 309 meters tall, and then there is the Pedra dos (Dois) Olhos, 296 meters tall.
The climate is tropical humid, with a maximum average temperature of 30.4ºC and a minimum of 24ºC, with most of the rainfall in the months between October and January.
Get in
[edit]
By plane
[edit]- 1 Eurico de Aguiar Salles Airport (VIX IATA) (located near the north end of Camburi beach). It receives daily flights from most state capitals in the country, mostly via Rio de Janeiro (the nearest gateway), São Paulo, Belo Horizonte or Salvador. Among the main airlines serving the airport are LATAM and Gol. Smaller carriers that serve the airport include Azul, TEAM, and TRIP.
It's about 10 minutes by taxi to most hotels and served by many bus lines.
The bus line 212 direction Aeroporto / B.Mar x Mario Cyprestes takes you from the airport via the Camburi beach, the port and the city center to the main bus station in 50-60 minutes.
By bus
[edit]Vitória's long-distance bus station is downtown, also with many bus lines serving it. There are many buses arriving and leaving during the day from cities like Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Salvador, Belo Horizonte, Brasília and others. It's around 20 minutes away from most of the hotels by taxi and 30 to 35 minutes by bus.
The bus 212 Aeroporto / B.Mar x Mario Cyprestes takes you from the bus station via the city center, the port and the Camburi beach to the airport in 50-60 minutes.
The bus trip from Rio de Janeiro takes about 8 hours, and from São Paulo some 14 hours, but most of the bus times are at night, making the trip not as tiring and time-wasting.
By train
[edit]The train station is located in the city of Cariacica (Greater Vitória) and connects the city to Belo Horizonte, in the state of Minas Gerais.
By car
[edit]
The two main roads are the BR-101, which runs south-north just inland of the coast, linking Vitória to Rio de Janeiro, to the south, and Salvador, to the north, and BR-262, that runs east-west, leaving Vitória and going to Belo Horizonte. Another road, local highway 60, runs along the coast southward to Guarapari.
Get around
[edit]Vitoria has an extensive bus network. You cannot pay cash in the bus, instead you need a local "Cartão GV - Bilhete Único Metropolitano". If you've a CPF you might be able to get one in a pharmacy. Otherwise, without a CPF, you can get one at the Terminal Jardim América, opposite the train station.
See
[edit]
Parts of the old town look a bit grubby and like they're dissolving away in the salt air, but 5 centuries is a long time.
- 1 Catedral Metropolitana, Praça Dom Fernando Scortegagna - Centro. Vitória's cathedral, dates from 1551. Located downtown.
- 2 Capela de Santa Luzia, ☏ +55 27 3222-3219. M-F 08:00-18:00. Near the cathedral, is Vitória's oldest religious building.
- 3 Palácio Anchieta, Praça João Clímaco, 142, ☏ +55 27 3636 1032. Colonial palace also from 16th century that now serves as a government building. Tours available and usually there are showcases of an art exhibit. A Jesuit priest is also buried on the grounds.
- 4 Igreja de São Gonçalo, R. Cosme Rolim, 56. This is another notable church that used to be the city's metropolitan cathedral.
- 5 Parque Moscoso, Av. Cleto Nunes. Tu-Su 05:00-22:00, closed M. If you need a break, this park is nice and shady, but, it seems its golden years are a little past and probably isn't a must. In the northeast corner you'll find a physical science museum called the Escola da Ciência-Física with exhibits on topics like mechanics and optics, but it's kind of geared towards adolescents.
- 6 Parque Botânico Vale, Av. dos Expedicionários, s/n - Jardim Camburi (on far north side of city). Tu-Su 08ː00-17ː00, closed M. Botanical garden.
- 7 Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Praça Irmã Joséfa Hosana, 5, ☏ +55 27 3223 1287. Carmelite (as opposed to Jesuit or Franciscan, who were already established) mission/convent built around 1682 with an original Baroque design that subsequently gave way to neo-gothic architecture after a 20th century renovation.
- 8 Convento de São Francisco, R. Uruguai, 47, ☏ +55 27 3323 6711. This one was an undertaking of the Franciscan order at the end of the 16th century, considered the oldest in southern Brazil, and dedicated to St. Francis.
- 9 Praça Costa Pereira. It's not really safe to hang out here, but driving around this square you can see the aesthetically pleasing Carlos Gomes (performing arts) Theater which was modeled after the Scala Theater in Milan, Italy to the north and the almost equally impressive SESC Cultural Center Glory to the south along Av Jeronimo Monteiro. Or catch a performance at one of these for greater appreciation.
- 10 Santuário Basílica de Santo Antônio, R. Ludovíco Pavone, ☏ +55 27 3332 0373. This basilica, kind of like a megastructure amongst the squalor, is a relatively recent addition, being constructed only in the 20th century, but the fact that you can access a viewpoint of surrounding Vitoria from the roof is quite a draw, in addition to the grandeur of the structure itself.
- 11 Pier de Lemanjá. Scenic ocean view but not very safe or clean, unfortunately.
- 12 Parque Pedra da Cebola (Onion Rock Park). Located in the Jardim da Penha neighborhood near the university, the centerpiece of this park is an unusual rock formation. A popular place for local couples to hang out.
- .
- 13 Convento da Penha (across the Terceira Ponte (Third Bridge) in Vila Velha). Distinctive hilltop Franciscan convent dating from the 16th century (it's kind of like the premier area attraction).
- 14 Espaço Baleia Jubarte, Praça do Papa - Enseada do Suá, ☏ +55 27 98825 0440. Tu-Su 12ː00-16ː00, closed M. A marine biology exhibit space focused on humpback whales that come to reproduce off the Capixaba coast from June to November. Marine biologists provide talks and during the whale season, boat tours are even available for R$300.
- 15 TAMAR Project, Av. Nossa Sra. dos Navegantes, 700A (also on Praça do Papa, on point sticking out into bay), ☏ +55 27 3225 3787. Th F 13ː00-17ː00, Sa Su 11ː00-17ː00. Dedicated to sea turtle conservation.
Museums
[edit]- 16 MUCANE - Museu Capixaba do Negro, Av. República, 121, ☏ +55 27 3222 4560. Museum about black and Afrocentric culture with art and handicrafts, displays and items for sale.
- 17 Museu de Artes do Espírito Santo, Av. Jerônimo Monteiro, 631, ☏ +55 27 3132 8390. Art museum focused mostly on contemporary regional art work.
- 18 Galeria Homero Massena - Secretaria de Estado da Cultura (SECULT), R. Pedro Palácios, nº 99, ☏ +55 27 3132 8395. A one-room art gallery with rotating exhibits. Just a few steps to the east along Rua Pedro Palacios, on the south side you will find the Escadaria Maria Ortiz, an elaborate staircase, where locals repelled a Dutch attack in times past. But, lo, it is not safe to come here in the before or after business hours of the day.
- 19 Monjardim Manor House, Av. Paulino Muller, ☏ +55 27 3223 6609. A living museum that once was the Monjardim family ranch, belonging to a prosperous family with strong ties to Portuguese royalty. It portrays historical aspects of Vitoria.
- 20 Museu do Pescador, R. Felicidade Corrêa dos Santos, ☏ +55 27 3132 8372. M-F 13:00-17:00, Sa 12:00-16:00, Su 13:00-16:00. Just a small gallery dedicated to the story of the fisherman, but, if you're here you can also enjoy a number of restaurants along the same street as well as watching ship traffic and the affairs of the day pass along the back bay from the Praça Dom João Batista.
Do
[edit]- 1 Parque da Fonte Grande (from the neighborhood of Praia do Canto, take the direction of Maruípe and make a right turn on the Police Station Headquarters, towards Serafim Derenzi Road; from there, keep going straight ahead until you see the sign to get in the park; the route should take 15 minutes by car). Tu-Su 08:00-17:00. Located in the central portion of the island, this is the biggest park of Vitória, preserving an important remaining area of the Atlantic Forest. Visitors can choose from many planned walks inside the forest and spot native animals such as snakes, small mammals, and many species of birds. The area's highlight is its 309m high mountain from which you can appreciate beautiful views from Vitória and nearby cities.
- 2 Praça dos Namorados. One of the more popular beachside parks that runs from the yacht club at Praia do Canto all the way down to Curva da Jurema near Shopping Vitória.
- 3 Praia Curva da Jurema. Little kiosks here to satisfy your post-swim/sun tan hunger pangs.
- 4 Praia de Camburi. A long beach bordered by restaurants, hotels, and a boardwalk. But it can be rather dirty, not just the grounds and facilities, but also the water from sewage/mining runoff.
Learn
[edit]At UFES (Federal University of Espírito Santo), one can find Portuguese courses for foreigners at its Language Center[dead link]. There are beginning and intermediate courses, and each level takes 1 semester.
Buy
[edit]- 1 Association of Potters of Goiabeiras, R. das Paneleiras, 55, ☏ +55 27 3327 0519. M-Sa 08:00-18:00, Su 09:00-15:00. This is almost more like an attraction because you can watch pottery being made here by a guild of artisans. But there are also ceramics for sale such as a panela de barro, a traditionally-made clay pot used for cooking moqueca capixaba.
- 2 Shopping Vitória. A fairly standard shopping mall near the Terceira Ponte. Around Christmas you can see all the Nordic adornments like Christmas trees and Santa even though it's probably 27 degrees outside.
Eat
[edit]Just south of Camburi is the Praia do Canto neighborhood, where you will find a couple of streets lined with restaurants of all types.
Mid-range
[edit]- 1 Salsa Pizzaria, R. Elesbão Linhares, 20 (Praia do Canto), ☏ +55 27 3019 6677.
Splurge
[edit]- 2 Lareira Portuguesa, Av. Saturnino de Brito, 260, ☏ +55 27 3345-0329. lunch and dinner. Portuguese gourmet food.
Drink
[edit]- 1 Triángulo das Bermudas (Bermuda Triangle). This area between Joaquim Lírio and João da Cruz streets in Praia do Canto has a lot of bars and restaurants that are very popular, particularly on the weekends.
- Rua da Lama, ☏ +55 27 3225-0417. Just west of Camburi near the federal university, has a string of bars including Cochicho da Penha.
- On most nights, there are live music events on the beach at Curva da Jurema. Music varies and there are plenty of drink kiosks to keep people happy.
- Wunderbar Kaffee. In the corner of Rio Branco and Chapot Presvot streets there is this delicious bar with great beers (Brazilian and foreign), excellent music (jazz, "chorinho", "bossa nova", Brazilian world music) and good food (German and Brazilian). Rio Branco Street, 1305 - Lj 4 - Praia do Canto, ☏ +55 27 3227-4331.
- 2 Motor Rockers Pub, Joaquin Lirio Street corn with Chapet Presvot. 16:00-23:00. A pub with many options of beers and concerts of rock, jazz and blues.
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]- 1 Hotel Ibis Budget Vitória, ☏ +55 27 3205-6155. Av Nossa Senhora da Penha, 1993 - Santa Lucia. This place has a rather budget feel. R$129.
- 2 Artsy Vitoria Hostel, Av. Pres. Costa e Silva, 977, ☏ +55 27 99855-2699. A good place for when you want to stay among friends and jam on the guitar and have a communal breakfast. R$151.
Mid-range
[edit]- Hotel Canto do Sol, Av. Dante Michelini, 3957, ☏ +55 27 3395-1700. Praia de Cambori.
- 3 Comfort Suites Vitória, Av. Saturnino de Brito, 1327, ☏ +55 27 3183-2500. The rooftop pool is not terribly fancy, but the hotel has a fitness center, restaurant, bar, wifi, and even a complimentary breakfast, too. R$194.
- 4 Hotel Ibis Praia do Canto, Rua João da Cruz, 385, ☏ +55 27 2104-4850, +55 27 2104-4890, ibisvitoria@accorhotels.com.br. Praia do Canto. Prices: weekdays R$ 149; weekends: R$ 119; breakfast: R$ 10 (per person)
- 5 Sheraton Vitoria Hotel, Av. Saturnino De Brito Avenue 217, ☏ +55 27 2125-8000. This hotel looms over the skyline like an obelisk with its Sheraton seal at the top. You can feel pretty bourgeoisie staying here. This one also has a complimentary breakfast and rooftop pool, and what is cool is that the gym and a lot of the rooms have seaside views. R$285.
- 6 Hotel Senac Ilha do Boi, R. Bráulio Macedo, 417, ☏ +55 27 3345-0111. Its location on a peninsula where the dining room and pool encapsulate some fine coastal views and the quality of the ambience make this a rather classy seaside resort.
- 7 Golden Tulip Porto Vitória, Av. Nossa Sra. dos Navegantes, 635, ☏ +55 27 3533-1300. This place looks like a sleek office building out of the Silicon Valley or something. You can sip on cocktails from the rooftop pool or take in views of the harbor from your room. Restaurant and breakfast available, as is a hot tub and fitness center. R$237.
Connect
[edit]The telephone area code for Vitória is 27 (as well as in central and northern parts of Espírito Santo).
Stay safe
[edit]Even if it is not very reported, most of Brazil's high and mid-populated cities have the same kind of criminality problems, and with Vitória it's not different. Remember to take the same care.
Avoid:
- To enter in the poor streets over hills. If you need, try to get the company of a local friend to visit any poor neighbourhood.
- Walk along empty streets at night. Prefer taxis back to your hotel.
Double alert:
- Around the Curva da Jurema and outside of the Shopping Vitória at night. The presence of muggers over bicycles there is common.
- In the Vitória's downtown, day or night. The Vila Rubim people's tradeshop is always frequented for muggers. Avoid walking alone if you don't know the place very well.
Stay healthy
[edit]As elsewhere in Brazil, some beaches in Vitória are not suitable for bathing, and conditions can change from day to day. On the day of your visit, check the city's map of the latest weekly beach water quality report (in Portuguese, relatório de qualidade da águas das praias).
Go next
[edit]- Vila Velha — Famous for Convento da Penha (a 16th-century hilltop Franciscan convent), and the beaches of Praia da Costa, Itapuã, and Coqueiral de Itaparica.
- Guarapari - A popular beach resort town. Famous for its lively ambiance, with many clubs and beach parties, especially during the summer months.
- Domingos Martins - To get a taste of a town colonized by German immigrants, and the famous Pedra Azul (Blue Rock).
- Santa Teresa - To get a taste of a town colonized by Italian immigrants.
- Itaúnas - Famous for its dunes and forró, a Northeastern Brazilian dance.
- Rio de Janeiro - World-known city famous for its breathtaking landscape and annual carnival.
| Routes through Vitória |
| Salvador ← Porto Seguro ← | N  S |
→ Guarapari → Rio de Janeiro |