Rock carvings in the park

Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park, also known as the Áísínai'pi National Historic Site is in Southern Alberta. It has the greatest concentration of rock art on the North American Great Plains, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Understand

It is one of the largest areas of protected prairie in the Alberta park system, and serves as a nature preserve and protection for a large number of Aboriginal rock carvings and paintings. The park is important and sacred to the Blackfoot and many other Aboriginal tribes. The provincial park is synonymous with the Áísínai'pi National Historic Site of Canada.

On 6 July 2019, Writing-on-Stone/Áísínai’pi was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• Writing-on-Stone Visitor Centre, Range Road 130A, ☏ +1 403-647-2364. July-Sep: daily 9:30AM-4PM, with longer hours weekends in Jul and Aug. The visitor centre offers information, Wi-Fi, a gift shop, and toilets, and is wheelchair-accessible. (updated Jul 2019)

History

There is evidence that the Milk River Valley was inhabited by First Nations (Aboriginal) people as long ago as 9000 years. Peoples such as the Blackfoot probably created many of the rock carvings (petroglyphs) and paintings (pictographs). Other First Nations groups such as the Shoshone also travelled through the valley and may have also created some of the art. These carvings and paintings tell of the lives and journeys of those who created them, and of the spirits they found here. The towering cliffs and hoodoos had a powerful impact on the visitors, who believed these were the homes of powerful spirits. The shelter of the coulees and the abundance of game and berries made the area that is now the park an excellent location for these nomadic people to stop on their seasonal migrations. While the greatest use of the area was made by those in transit, there is some evidence, including tipi rings and a medicine wheel, that there was some permanent settlement here.

Beginning about 1730, large numbers of horses, metal goods, and guns began to appear on the Western plains. This signified not only a change in the First Nations lifestyle, but a change in the content of the rock art. Pictures of hunters on horseback, and warriors without body shields began to be created.

In 1887 a North-West Mounted Police (the precursor to the Royal Canadian Mounted Police) camp was set up at Writing-On-Stone to attempt to curtail cross-border whiskey smuggling, which was devastating the First Nations population, and to put a stop to First Nations horse-raiding parties. But in fact neither problem ever became serious at this outpost, and the NWMP spent most of their time fighting summer grass fires, herding stray American cattle back across the border, and riding hundreds of uneventful kilometres on border patrol. In the period immediately preceding World War I, settlers began to arrive in the area, which helped to alleviate some of the boredom and isolation the NWMP officers faced. In 1918, the outpost was closed, as Canadian authorities felt little possibility of criminal activity along the border, and shortly thereafter, the outpost fell victim to arson.

The park was created in 1957 and was designated an archaeological preserve in 1977. As part of the NWMP centennial celebrations, the outpost was reconstructed between 1973 and 1975, and is now one of the attractions in the park.

Landscape

Rolling grasslands, hoodoo fields and narrow sandstone canyons.

Flora and fauna

The park comprises 17.80 km² (4400 acres) of coulee and prairie habitat, and boasts a diverse variety of birds and animals.

Bird species include prairie falcon, great horned owl, short-eared owl, American kestrel, cliff swallow and the introduced ring-necked pheasant and grey partridge.

The prairie surrounding the park is a habitat for pronghorn antelope, and other species inhabiting the park include mule deer, northern pocket gophers, skunks, raccoons, yellow-bellied marmots, and bobcat. Tiger salamanders, boreal chorus frogs and leopard frogs, and plains spadefoot toads represent the amphibians, and garter snakes, bull snakes and prairie rattlesnakes can be found.

The coulee environment is optimal for tree species such as balsam poplar and narrow leaf cottonwood. Peachleaf willow and plains cottonwood are also found here. A large number of shrubs grow here, including chokecherry, juniper, saskatoon, sandbar willow, and two varieties of wild rose. Some of the most northern species of cactus, including Opuntia (prickly pear) and Pediocactus (pincushion) are found in the park as well.

Get in

The park is about 100 km southeast of Lethbridge, and 44 km east of the community of Milk River.

From Lethbridge, follow Highway 4 southeast to Milk River, Highway 500 east to Range Road 130A, and turn right (south) to the park.

Fees and permits

There are no fees for day use. See below for camping fees.

Get around

Hiking.

See

There are over 50 petroglyph sites and thousands of works. It is possible to see some rock art along a public accessible walkway but most can only be seen via a guided tour.

The park also showcases a North-West Mounted Police (NWMP) outpost reconstructed on its original site. It was rebuilt after the original outpost was burned down.

Do

• Hiking:
  • Battle Scene Trail (0.5 km)
  • Hoodoo Trail (2.2 km) winds through hoodoos, sandstone cliffs and rock art, upland prairie grasslands, the Milk River valley and coulees
  • Visitor Centre Trail (0.34 km)
• Backcountry hiking: a 930-hectare backcountry hiking zone consists of rolling grasslands, hoodoo fields and narrow sandstone canyons. There are no developed trails; however, a network of game trails provides easy access to most areas. Access requires wading across the river. There is no recommended crossing site. Hikers cross at their own risk, generally following a suspected game trail. Stop at the Visitor Centre or Hoodoo Hut to check information & pick up a backcountry hiking map.
• Swimming, canoeing, kayaking, or tubing in the Milk River. Verify that conditions are safe, and bring your bathing suit, canoe, kayak, raft or tube.
• Fishing: There is limited river fishing for brassy minnow, brook stickleback, burbot, fathead minnow, flathead chub, Iowa darter, lake chub, lake whitefish, longnose dace, longnose sucker, mountain sucker, mountain whitefish, northern pike, sauger, St. Mary sculpin, stonecat, trout-perch, western silvery minnow, white sucker and yellow perch.
• Birding: more than 160 species of birds.

Buy, eat and drink

There is a gift shop at the visitor centre, but otherwise you should bring in all of your provisions.

Sleep

Camping

• 1 Writing-on-Stone Campground. 43 sites, suitable for tents and RVs, many with 15-amp or 30-amp service. Has toilet facilities, but make sure you bring all your supplies with you. Unserviced/serviced: summer $26/33, winter $18/$25, reservation fee $12. (updated Jul 2019)
• Comfort Camping, toll-free: +1-877-537-2757. High-quality canvas wall tent with plenty of ventilation. One queen bed and a futon that sleeps two. Electric heater, fan, lights, lantern and outlets. Coffee maker. Pots, pans cooking implements, plates, bowls, cups and utensils for 4 people. A mini fridge, dining table and chairs. Gas barbecue with side burner and propane. Book by phone or online. $135/night for up to 4 people. (updated Jul 2019)

Stay safe

• Damaging any cultural resource, including rock art, may result in a $50,000 fine and a one-year jail sentence. If you see artifacts, please leave them in place and contact park staff.
• There are venomous prairie rattlesnakes in the park. They are very timid, and will only strike if threatened. Don't walk in long grass or under ledges. Don't stick your hands or feet into crevices where they may be resting. Do not handle a snake, even one that looks dead. If bitten, try to keep the affected area immobile and below your heart; contact park staff or go to a hospital. Don't try to suck the venom out unless you're John Wayne (you are not John Wayne).