One of the first towns founded in Massachusetts Bay, Roxbury is located at the geographic center of Boston. Serving as the heart of Black culture in Boston, Roxbury seriously considered seceding from Boston during the late 1980s. The idea was to create a local government, Mandela, that would not discriminate against minorities. The two subsequent referendums failed, however. Despite this, Roxbury is one of the fastest growing neighborhoods in Boston and is a gateway to points South.
Understand
[edit]First settled by Europeans as an independent town in 1630, Roxbury was enormous and encompassed about half the neighborhoods in Boston today. Roxbury was the edge of the British siege of Boston during the Revolutionary War. Over time each area of Roxbury would incorporate itself and break off, until Roxbury itself was annexed to Boston in 1868. A particular type of stone, Roxbury Puddingstone, is found locally and outcroppings in the area are quite visible. Many notable buildings in town are constructed with this material. It may even be where the neighborhood gets its name, "Rocksberry".
Over the years Roxbury has absorbed waves of immigrants; after the English, the Irish arrived in the mid-1800s, followed next by Germans in the early 1900s. In the early 20th century a large Eastern European Jewish population also moved into Roxbury. The most recent cultural changeover began in the 1940s and 50s when an influx of new African American residents migrating from the South during the Great Migration arrived, alongside immigrants from the Caribbean.
Roughly, Roxbury can be divided into "upper" and "lower" halves, with Martin Luther King Boulevard serving as a dividing line. Heading south towards Franklin Park you'll notice a small elevation change, which distinguishes the halves. Many parts of Lower Roxbury were razed during the 50s and 60s when plans for an Inner Belt highway surfaced, called the Southwest Corridor, which would’ve gone through many high-density areas of the city (including lower Roxbury). Despite the highway project being stopped after many united protests of Bostonians from every neighborhood took place, it displaced thousands of people and businesses, and severely damaged the local economy. The White Flight to the suburbs began there first, and when acres of city blocks were flattened by other unfair urban renewal policies, few residents remained to speak up against them. Upper Roxbury remained largely intact, but the entire neighborhood suffered disinvestment and neglect by the rest of the city, including the demolition and rerouting of the elevated-track Orange Line in 1987; replaced by the Silver Line and several buses that were super inconsistent. You could understand why the community was ready to break away during the late 80s. Instead of a new government, however, those who remained channeled their energy into setting up a new strategic development plan that would work for everyone.
Neighborhoods
[edit]- Nubian Square (until 2019, Dudley Square). This is the heart of Roxbury. A mix of old Boston and new cityscape, Nubian Square is unabashed in its Black history and culture. Having been renamed in 2019 after the ancient region in Egypt and Northern Sudan, the neighborhood has received significant investment post-pandemic and has done a 180 from its troubled past Strategic plans dreamed up in the late 1980s after the failed referendums are finally coming to fruition as the city of Boston invests millions of dollars into renovating back the Bolling building and other structures in the neighborhood. Longtime residents rub elbows with fresh arrivals, who are taking advantage of the proximity to downtown, access to amenities, and the lower cost of living compared with other districts. With Bartlett Yard under construction and big plans in the works for other parcels, this area of town is experiencing all the pros of gentrification without losing its working-class core.
- Egleston Square Is it part of Roxbury? Part of JP? This community at a crossroads is a great example of what Roxbury has to offer. A variety of shops and restaurants, from Hispanic cuisine to Boba tea, cater to the locals in the area. Many non-profits have taken root here, investing in urban youth; parents can find classes covering everything from baseball to SAT prep to creative writing and more. There are certain areas in Egleston Square you should avoid, such as the intersection of Washington and Columbus Streets, due to a homeless and drug problem; however, anything south of that intersection on Washington Street is a great place to drive or stroll!
- Moreland Street A tree-lined masterclass of colorful Victorian mini-mansions mixed with modest brownstones that were built mostly in the 1800s, it's only a short walk from downtown Nubian Square! Take a gander at the architecture before resting your legs in the shady Howes Playground on the corner of Moreland and Fairland Streets. Its mostly residential, so don't spend too much time here if you're looking for some restaurants and bars.
- Fort Hill A quiet residential community set on hilly land west of Washington Street. Its one-way streets and hillsides are dotted with interesting architectural gems just waiting to be discovered. This neighborhood doesn't have much shopping and restaurants but does contain a community college, a park, and a mosque.
Get in
[edit]By public transit
[edit]The Orange Line provides Roxbury with three busy stations located along the Southwest Corridor. Ruggles is by far the largest and has the most connections to local buses and the Commuter Rail. While Roxbury Crossing gets a lot of use from residents, and the nearby student population in Mission Hill. It's likely your best bet to walk into the center of Nubian Square. Further down the line Jackson Square is used by many residents of Egleston Square and Upper Roxbury. If you're headed to Franklin Park by train, consider staying on another two stops to Green Street.
Ruggles is also your stop if you're arriving from the suburbs. This is the only stop in Roxbury for the Providence, Franklin, and Needham Commuter Rail lines. It seems like almost every bus in the city winds up at Ruggles or Nubian terminal at one point or another. The most popular bus route, probably in the entire city, is the aptly named #1 that runs from Nubian Square to Harvard College regularly. Other popular routes include the #23 and #28 which run to Ashmont and Mattapan stations, respectively. The CT2 and CT3 are part of the cities cross town loop system and will take you to either MIT or BU Medical. The #66 another helpful crosstown bus headed to Allston, can be picked up from the Roxbury Crossing station.
The beginning of the Silver Line can be found at Nubian terminal in Nubian Square. This route runs into downtown, to Logan Airport and many other locations. The only other stop it makes in Roxbury is Melnea Cass Boulevard, before entering the South End. The station itself is a large bus depot, the structure salvaged from the Washington Street elevated railway on which the Orange Line ran until the 1980s. Any route you missed at Ruggles can be picked up here.
By car
[edit]Driving in Roxbury is, like everywhere else in Boston, not recommended. It's only potentially worth the hassle if you're planning on heading to Franklin Park or getting off the beaten path. Parking is a little less competitive here than Downtown. However, traffic can still back up quickly, and unpredictable driver behavior is very common. Because of the hilly and rocky topography, streets here are laid out in an even less cohesive plan than other areas. Roxbury has more than its fair share of dead-end streets, cul-de-sacs, and roads to seemingly nowhere...so watch out for those as well. Also, avoid Humboldt Avenue and its side streets in Lower Roxbury across from Franklin Park. Known as H-Block to Bostonians, it is infamous across northern America for gang culture and has been perennially prone to violence in the past.
Get around
[edit]See
[edit]- 1 Franklin Park, 1 Franklin Park Road (T: Green Street), ☏ +1 617 635-4505. 24 hours daily. The crown jewel in Frederick Law Olmstead's Emerald Necklace system of parks, Franklin Park brings together rural scenery, a woodland preserve, and areas for recreation and sports. Although funding for upkeep has been inconsistent over the years, the park's 485 acres provide thousands of city dwellers with unmatched green space. Take your time and investigate the old stone bridges and ruins scattered along the 15+ miles of rustic walking/hiking paths. Urban explorers shouldn't miss the Long Crouch Woods, site of Boston's first zoo, or the historic White Stadium, built in 1949, home of nearby public high school Boston Latin School's football team, and host of a large Black Panther rally back in 1969. A grand staircase, deteriorating for a century, arcs up to reveal a long arcade lined with giant bear cages built of iron. If you're looking for a more focused undertaking, check out the entries for the golf course and modern zoo below. Free.
- 2 Highland Park (Roxbury High Fort), Highland Park (T: Jackson Square), ☏ +1 617 635-4505. 24 hours daily. This site once contained earthwork fortifications built by the Continental Army during the Siege of Boston, and its clearly defendable location still offers sweeping views of downtown Boston. Fort Hill, the neighborhood's modern name, was inspired by these earthworks. The small park contains the Cochituate Standpipe, also known as Fort Hill Tower, built in 1869. It was once used to provide water pressure to area residents, but was only in use for a few decades. The tower makes a good point of reference when navigating Roxbury. Keep checking its location when you're worried about getting turned around. Free.
- 3 Roxbury Heritage State Park (Dillaway-Thomas House), 183 Roxbury street (T: Roxbury Crossing), ☏ +1 617 445-3399. Call ahead for tours. This heritage park is located in the John Eliot Square area of Roxbury, originally the center of town after its founding in 1630. The Dillaway-Thomas House here was built in the Georgian style during 1750 for the pastor of the First Church of Roxbury. Which still stands today just across the street. In April 1775, John Thomas, an American commander in the Continental Army, took possession of the house. Using it as a base of operations during the siege of Boston. By early March 1776, Henry Knox had transported cannons from Fort Ticonderoga in New York and through Roxbury, when Thomas led the charge to fortify Dorchester Heights. He and his men used the cannons to force the evacuation of the British from Boston on March 17. The house returned to the ownership of Pastors and Educators until was eventually purchased by the City of Boston in the 1920s, and slated for demolition. Activism by Roxbury residents saved the structure, and it began its current path to restoration in the 1930s. Free.
- 4 Shirley-Eustis House, 33 Shirley St (T: Ruggles; take the #15 bus towards St. Peter's Sq. and get off at Dennis Street), ☏ +1 617 442-2275, info@shirleyeustishouse.org. Th-Su 1PM-4PM. The house was built in 1747 as a summer home for William Shirley (1694–1771), Royal Governor of the Province of Massachusetts Bay. It is one of the last remaining mansions of royal governors in the United States. After the Revolutionary War, the home was seized as "Loyalist property" in 1778 and sat unoccupied for four years. For the next 100 years the home would pass through the hands of many wealthy Bostonians, Ambassadors, and Governors. Eventually it fell into being used as a tenement building, and in 1911 it was once again abandoned. Two years later, the founder of the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities took on a new role, and began the work of preserving the house. The structure was again extensively renovated during the 1980s. The work included an award winning restoration to the grounds, including an orchard, period perennial beds, parterre gardens, and a large formal lawn. Today it is used as a living museum, be sure to check the events calendar for what's new. $7 adults, $5 students/seniors.
Do
[edit]- 1 Franklin Park Zoo, 1 Franklin Park Rd (T: Green Street), ☏ +1 617 541-5466. Summer: M-F 10AM-5PM, Sa-Su 10AM-6PM; Winter: 10AM-4PM daily. Franklin Park Zoo, founded in 1912, is a 72-acre site nestled in Boston’s historic Franklin Park. This zoo contains a combined 10,000 sq ft of playground area and uses play to teach children about conservation and wildlife. In addition, it has an Australian bird aviary, a bird world's exhibit, an African lions exhibit, a tigers exhibit, a tropical forest environment, an outback trail, a butterfly tent, barn houses with farm animals, expansive giraffe and zebra savannah, a camel trek, a carousel, a train ride, a stationary jeep ride, picnic areas, a southwestern-themed grill concession stand, and a children's zoo! Adult $20, senior: $17, child $14. Members and children under 2, free.
- 2 William J. Devine Golf Course, 1 Circuit Dr (T: Green Street), ☏ +1 617 265-4084.
- 3 Hibernian Hall, 184 Dudley St (T: Roxbury Crossing or Nubian terminal), ☏ +1 617 541-3900.
- 4 826 Boston (Bigfoot Research Institute), 3035 Washington St (T: Stony Brook), ☏ +1 617 442-5400. M-F 10AM-6PM. Volunteer and teach the next generation of poets and writers. Also sells a variety of "Big Foot" souvenirs, alongside books by local authors.
Buy
[edit]- Frugal Bookstore, 57 Warren St, Roxbury, MA 02119, ☏ +16175411722. M-F 10:00-18:00 Sat 10:00-17:00 Sun Closed. A quaint bookstore in the heart of Nubian Square, what else would one desire?
- 1 Boston Gardener, 2131 Washington St, ☏ +1 617 606-7065. M-Sa 10AM-6PM. Friendly, knowledgeable staff can answer any question about what to do to with your soil. Complete selection of hydroponic supplies, lighting, and fertilizer. They also sell many smaller items like pots and seeds.
- 2 Skippy White's Records, 1971 Columbus Ave (Egleston Square (T: Stony Brook)), ☏ +1 617 524-4500. M-W noon-6PM, Th-F noon-7PM, Sa 9AM-7PM.
Eat
[edit]- 1 Tasty Burger, 2200 Washington St (T: Dudley), ☏ +1 617 425-4444. M-Sa 11AM-9PM. $5-9.
- 2 Haley House Bakery Café, 12 Dade St (T: Dudley), ☏ +1 617 445-0900. M-F 7:30AM-8PM, Sa 9AM-4PM, Su 10AM-4PM. Community focused comfort food. Mains $7-12.
- 3 Preparations, 220 Columbia Rd (T: Four Corners/Geneva), ☏ +1 617 445-5120. Simple Caribbean fruit and vegetable market that also serves dynamite oxtail. $8-12.
- 4 Island Style, 183 Washington St (T: Four Corners/Geneva), ☏ +1 617 288-8300. M-W 7:30AM-10PM, Th-Sa 7:30AM-11PM, Su noon-9PM. $8-12.
- 5 [dead link] Ashur Restaurant, 291 Roxbury St (T: Roxbury Crossing), ☏ +1 617 427-0599. Su-Th 8AM-10PM, F Sa 8AM-11PM. $12-14.
- 6 [dead link] Suya Joint All African Cuisine, 185 Dudley St (T: Dudley), ☏ +1 617 939-0582. Tu-Th noon-10PM, F Sa 11:30AM-midnight, Su 2PM-10PM. Delicious Nigerian food in a lively environment, with the big-screen TV at the bar hooked up to YouTube and showing African hip-hop and R&B videos. The house specialty that gives the place its name could be described as an African version of Southeast Asian satay: appetizer-sized servings of skewered beef or chicken spiced to your liking. Main courses largely consist of a roster of Nigerian-style stews eaten with balls of fufu (this can be challenging for beginners; do your best). There's also a small range of Guinean and Sierra Leonean specialties for those who'd like to extend their exploration of African cuisine beyond Nigeria. Service is friendly if sometimes slow. Starters $8-12, mains $12-16.
- 7 Merengue Restaurant, 160 Blue Hill Avenue (T: Uphams Corner), ☏ +1 617 445-5403. 10AM-10PM daily. Starters $4-8, mains $14-30.
Drink
[edit]For a neighborhood of its size and population, Roxbury seems to have a dearth of drinking establishments. Don't worry, there are PLENTY more in neighboring areas.
- 1 C & S Tavern, 380 Warren St (Grove Hall), ☏ +1 617 442-7023.
- 2 Bully Boy Distillers, 35 Cedric St (T: Newmarket), ☏ +1 617 442-6000, info@bullyboydistillers.com. Sa 1PM-5PM. Tours $10.
- 3 Biff's Lounge, 24 Washington St (T: Four Corners/Geneva), ☏ +1 617 445-0324. M-W 5PM-midnight, Th F 5PM-1:30AM, Sa Su 4PM-1:30AM.
Coffee
[edit]- 4 Dudley Cafe, 15 Warren St (T: Dudley), ☏ +1 617 445-1000. M-F 7AM-7PM, Sa Su 9AM-3PM. Coffee $2-4, sandwiches $7-9, beer/wine $6.
Sleep
[edit]- 1 Best Western Plus Boston Hotel, 891 Massachusetts Ave, ☏ +1 617 989-1000, toll-free: +1 800 780-7234. Check-in: 3PM, check-out: 11AM. From $180.
- 2 Guild Street Townhouse, 4 Guild St. Check-in: 4PM-midnight, check-out: 10AM-11PM. A vacation home on a quiet residential street that's available for weekly rentals. Sitting room with free flat-screen cable TV; balcony with view over the city; full kitchen with oven, microwave, dishwasher, dishes and silverware. Free WiFi. Free onsite parking. $1,855-$2,555/wk.
Connect
[edit]The only coffee shop in Roxbury, true to form, offers free wi-fi facilities. These three BPL branches can also help you out in a pinch.
- 1 Dudley Branch (Boston Public Library), 65 Warren St (T: Dudley), ☏ +1 617 442-6186. M Th noon-8PM, Tu W 10AM-6PM, F Sa 9AM-5PM.
- 2 Egleston Square Branch (Boston Public Library), 2044 Columbus Ave (T: Stony Brook), ☏ +1 617 445-4340. M Tu Th 10AM-6PM, W noon-8PM, F 9AM-5PM, Sa 9AM-2PM.
- 3 Grove Hall Branch (Boston Public Library), 41 Geneva Ave (T: Four Corners/Geneva), ☏ +1 617 427-3337. M-W 10AM-6PM, Th noon-8PM, F Sa 9AM-5PM.
Go next
[edit]- Like Franklin Park? Head west into Jamaica Plain and check out the Arnold Arboretum.
- Hop on the Silver Line and ride north into the shopping and dining destination the South End.
- Explore Roxbury's eastern border and try to figure out exactly where Dorchester begins and Roxbury ends.
- Investigate some of the quieter areas of town in the Outer Neighborhoods of Mattapan and Roslindale.
- Renowned museums like the MFA and Isabella Stewart Gardner are in Fenway/Kenmore, just across the Southwest Corridor Park.
Routes through Roxbury |
Malden ← Downtown ← | N S | → Jamaica Plain → END |
END ← Needham ← | W E | → Downtown → END |
END ← Downtown ← | N S | → Westwood → Canton |
Franklin ← Dedham ← | SW NE | → Downtown → END |