Great Cumbrae is an island in the Firth of Clyde off the coast of Ayrshire, with Millport as its only settlement, and a population of 1376 in 2011. The island is about 3 miles long by 1½ miles wide, roughly tooth-shaped, with a broad bay indenting its south coast. It's low-lying and agricultural; Millport is a traditional "Glasgow Riviera" resort but is quiet and little developed compared to Ayrshire's other coastal towns.

Little Cumbrae a mile south across the channel of "The Tan" is rocky and barren. It's nowadays a private yoga retreat.

Cumbrae or Cumaradh means "place of the Cymric people" - so they spoke a P-Celtic language similar to Old Welsh, until this was replaced by the Q-Celtic of Gaelic.

Get in

1 Cumbrae Slip 3 miles north of Millport is where you arrive on the Calmac ferry from Largs. This sails year-round every 30 min daily, taking 10 min. Return fares until end of March 2025 are £15.20 per car, £4 per adult including the driver, and £2 per child aged 5-15.

Millport Motors Bus 320 shuttles between the Slip and Millport town every 30 minutes, more often at peak times, taking 10 min.

Get around

• Mapes on Guildford St and On Your Bike on Stuart St hire bikes. Both are open daily.

See

• 1 Cathedral of the Isles (Collegiate Church of the Holy Spirit), College St, Millport KA28 0HE. Scottish Episcopal (Anglican) cathedral, the smallest cathedral in Britain, built in Gothic revival style (architect William Butterfield) and opened in 1851. In the entrance porch are several Celtic crosses, found on the island in the 19th century. (updated Aug 2019)
• 2 Garrison House, Glasgow St KA28 0DJ. Daily 09:00-17:00. Fine old building built in 1745 to house the Revenue officers of the sailing ship "The Royal George", which hunted smugglers. The building was badly damaged by fire in 2001 but has been restored and is now mainly a community centre with a cafe. The small attached "Museum of the Cumbraes" may be open, otherwise just admire the facade and have a cuppa. (updated Aug 2019)
• 3 Crocodile Rock is a large rock on the foreshore painted with a crocodile's jaws. It was first painted circa 1913 and kept in good repair since. Other prominent rocks around the island have been similarly embellished.
• 4 Robertson Museum and Aquarium, Marine Parade KA28 0EG. M-F 10:00-16:00. Aquarium and museum showing local sealife. Specimens are caught by students and are returned to the sea after three weeks in the aquarium. Adult £2.50, child £1. (updated Aug 2019)
• 5 The Eileans is the imaginative name for the two outcrops in the bay off Millport. The name means "islands", which they are.

Do

• What's on? Read Largs and Millport Weekly News.
• Glaid Stone is the island's highest point of 417 ft / 127 m, with views over the Firth of Clyde. You can walk, cycle or drive up the narrow paved lane.
• Circle the island: it's 11 miles along quiet, level roads.
• 1 Sportscotland on the east coast is a national watersports training facility, covering several disciplines including powerboats and kayaking.
• Golf: Millport GC is on the ridge behind the town. White tees 5828 yards, par 68, visitor fee £30.
• Scuba diving: Don't be alarmed if on the ferry you see people donning scuba kit: they're planning to dive onto the Catalina flying boat next to Cumbrae Slip. The Catalinas were based at Largs during World War II for Atlantic patrols, and this one made a rough landing and sank in 1943.
• Beach: Newton Beach in the bay by Millport is sandy and safe.

Buy

Bathing is safe at Millport

• There are small stores along the main street but no supermarket. People do their main shopping in Largs.

Eat

The Golden Dragon and the Dancing Midge Cafe are both on Millport sea front by Crocodile Rock.

• Round Island Cafe Bar, 51 Stuart St KA28 0AJ, ☏ +44 1475 531193. F-Tu 12:00-18:00. This earns good reviews for food and friendly service. (updated Sep 2022)

Drink

• Newton Bar on Glasgow St is open daily 11:00-01:00. Tavern Bar is further along the street.
• The Twa Dugs on Stuart St is open daily 11:00-00:00. Minstrels nearby remains closed in 2022.
• Distillery: Isle of Cumbrae Distillers make gin, tours available.

Sleep

View south from atop Great Cumbrae

• Firth View Caravan Park, half a mile west of town, has static caravans as self-catering lets, but doesn't have tourer or camping facilities. It's open Mar-Dec.
• 1 Millport Pier Hotel (formerly Royal George), 1 Quayhead Millport KA28 0AP, ☏ +44 1475 530301. Decent basic hotel, it's your best bet on Cumbrae, dog-friendly. Food served from noon, bar is open daily till midnight or later, live music at weekends. Refurbished in 2020 with management coming from the Clutha Bar in Glasgow. (updated Apr 2022)
• Craigard House, ☏ +44 1475 530532. is a welcoming small B&B on the seafront. (updated Feb 2023)
• Also, several self-catering places in Millport.
• The Cathedral, ☏ +44 1475 530353. is open for B&B March-Nov whenever its 16 bedrooms are not being used for groups and retreats. Temporarily closed from November 2022. B&B double £90.. (updated Feb 2023)

Connect

As of April 2022, Great Cumbrae only has a mobile signal from Three. Largs on the mainland has 4G from all UK carriers so finish up any important calls there.

Go next

• You have to return by ferry to Largs. Once ashore, head to Ayr for the Robert Burns Heritage Area at Alloway.
• Other Clyde islands easily reached from Largs are the Isle of Bute (ferry from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay) and Isle of Arran (ferry from Ardrossan to Brodick).