Mount Shuksan

North Cascades National Park is a national park in the North Cascades region of Washington State. Steep glacier-capped mountain ranges rise above pristine lakes, providing remote wilderness and exceptional mountain climbing.

Understand

Sitting on the border of the United States and Canada, the North Cascades National Park covers an area of over 500,000 acres (200,000 hectares) and ranges in height between 1,000 ft (300 m) to over 10,000 ft (3,000 m).

The park is divided into non-contiguous north and south sections by State Route 20, the North Cascades Highway, which passes through the Ross Lake National Recreation Area. The far south of the park is bordered by the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area. This article includes listings for both recreation areas, as the boundaries are not obvious or important to most visitors. (In fact, nearly all of the listings are outside of the national park boundaries.)

Much of the park is designated as Wilderness, meaning the land is protected from most forms of human infrastructure, including roads and frontcountry campgrounds. As such, there are few areas with developed facilities.

History

Indigenous peoples

Archeological evidence from over 8000 years ago shows that the area contained large indigenous populations. The rugged topography of the Cascades divided the peoples of the Columbia River Plateau to the east and those of the Puget Sound Lowlands to the west.

Routes through the major mountain passes were vital to indigenous peoples, as important links in a trade network to share locally abundant resources. They traveled across mountain passes to trade, following ridge crests to avoid dense brush along avalanche shoots and stream bottoms. The difficulty of travel across these rugged mountains made intimate knowledge of them vital.

Fur traders

"Lousy Lake" (that's the name!)

In the late 1700s, fur traders traveling on foot and by canoe were among the first Euro-Americans to venture into the North Cascades wilderness. Seeking to follow the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean, these explorers entered only the lower reaches of the North Cascades. The earliest recorded crossing of the North Cascades by a Euro-American occurred in 1814. Alexander Ross, a fur trader, crossed Twisp Pass, followed the Stehekin River and crossed Cascade Pass, then traced the Cascade River downstream to its confluence with the Skagit River. Maps of Washington Territory in 1860 show large areas still labeled "unexplored."

Miners

In the 1850s, prospectors began searching for gold along the banks of the Skagit River. After gold was discovered along Ruby Creek in the late 1870s, hundreds of miners swarmed over the upper Skagit Valley. They found little gold, and the rush was over by 1880. Over the next few decades, miners turned their attention to other minerals, primarily silver and lead, located higher in the mountains. New claims were established in the high country around Cascade Pass, including Doubtful Lake, Boston and Horseshoe Basins and Bridge Creek. A rich silver deposit was found just below Boston Glacier near the headwaters of Thunder Creek in 1892, and another rush was on. Some silver was located, but the costs of getting the ore out were too high. By 1913 most of the Thunder Creek mining companies had folded. Mining continued along the Stehekin drainage through the 1910s until metal values dropped and it became too costly. Interest in mining in the area did not resume until World War I increased the demand for metal and then again during the 1940s to 1950s for the last time. Short working seasons, unpredictable weather conditions, difficult transportation, limited accessibility and lack of working capital were all factors that hampered the development of large-scale mining in the North Cascades.

Loggers

Due to inaccessibility, little of the park was commercially logged. Commercial timber cutting began on westside, low-elevation forests in the 1860s. Once the natural logjams that blocked the lower Skagit were cleared away in the 1870s, logging began to extend into the heart of the mountains. Logs were rafted down the river to be milled at settlements downstream. Logging also occurred in the Stehekin Valley. There were some mills in the valley that were used to mill lumber for local use. Most of the logs were rafted down Lake Chelan and used to make apple boxes. The lack of an adequate transportation system hindered early efforts to expand logging operations deep into the mountains.

Landscape

Mount Shuksan

Steep mountains coupled with an amazing variety of rock and water features contribute to the region's tremendous biodiversity. Variation in elevation, soil types, rainfall and exposure combine to form eight distinctive life zones from the lowland forests and wetlands to the alpine peaks and glaciers.

Forests

Abundant rain and mild winters provide the perfect environment for trees in the Pacific Northwest to grow very large and old. Most of the old giants are gone from the Northwest, but in the wilds of the North Cascades you can still visit groves that have never been cut and still retain all of the characteristics of old-growth forest.

Geology

The North Cascades are still rising, shifting and forming. Geologists believe that these mountains are a collage of terranes, distinct assemblages of rock separated by faults. Fossil and rock magnetism studies indicate that the North Cascades terranes were formed thousands of miles south in the Pacific Ocean. Attached to slowly moving plates of oceanic rock, they drifted northward merging about 90 million years ago. Colliding with the North American Continent, the drifting rock masses were thrust upwards and faulted laterally into a jumbled array of mountains. The collision broke or sliced the terranes into north or south trending faults that are still evident today.

Glaciers

Boasting over 300 glaciers and countless snowfields, the North Cascades National Park Service Complex is one of the snowiest places on earth and the most heavily glaciated area in the United States outside of Alaska (more than Glacier National Park!).

Lakes and ponds

The abundance and diversity of aquatic habitats in the North Cascades ecosystem is one of the characteristics that makes this area unique. In North Cascades National Park (NP), over 500 lakes and ponds are scattered throughout the mountain landscape. These natural environments are home to native aquatic life including plankton, aquatic insects, frogs and salamanders.

Rivers and streams

Major rivers continually shape the landscape on all sides of the Cascade Crest and provide key habitat for thousands of species of plants and animals. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the North Cascades. To the north, the Chilliwack River leaves the park to combine with the Fraser River in British Columbia (the largest watershed along the west coast of North America). The Nooksack River flows west beyond Mount Baker beginning its journey near Mt. Shuksan (the park's most photographed peak). Baker River drains the Picket Range and southeast slopes of Mount Baker joining the Skagit River, which flows from Canada, then westward across the middle of North Cascades National Park Complex. The Skagit is the largest watershed emptying into Puget Sound. In spite of the three dams along its length, the Skagit supports all five species of Pacific salmon and two anadromous (or sea-going) trout. The Stehekin River drains the southeast corner of the park to feed Lake Chelan – a glacier-carved trough which at 1,500 ft (460 m) is the third deepest natural lake in the nation. The waters of Lake Chelan eventually make their way to the mighty Columbia River, the largest river system in the western US.

Wetlands

Wetlands, marshes and swamps may be the last thing people think of when they visit, but they are one of the most important. They prepare the ground from which will spring forth a mature forest. Wetlands also provide perfect habitat for many amphibians, invertebrates and aquatic plants.

Flora and fauna

Mountain goat

The park is home to a wide variety of species, most notably the Grizzly Bear, the Gray Wolf, and the Canada Lynx. The extreme variation in elevation produce an incredible range of plant life as well, with the short flowering season of the alpine meadows being particularly spectacular.

Climate

The climate is typical of the Pacific Northwest. It is easy to stereotype the weather there as heavy, rainy winters and clear, mild summers. However, as soon as you cross the Cascade crest, the climate transitions to the eastern Washington high desert.

Inclement weather can occur at any time of the year. It is not unheard of to have snowstorms in July at higher elevations!

Visitor information

• National Park Service website. (updated Oct 2024)

The park has four Visitor Centers:

• 1 Golden West Visitor Center (a short walk from the passenger ferry landing at Stehekin Landing at the north end of 50-mile long Lake Chelan). Reached via passenger ferry, trail, or float plane. Not accessible by road vehicle. Exhibits: Relief map and natural and cultural history of the area. Arts & Humanities of Stehekin operates the Golden West Gallery, featuring local artists and crafts people. Facilities: Information desk, bookstore. Audiovisual program. Daytime short talks. Additional summer programs offered. (updated Jun 2020)

• 2 North Cascades National Park Service Complex Headquarters and Public Information Center, 810 Moore Street (State Route 20), Sedro-Woolley (five miles east of I-5 in Burlington and approximately 46 miles west of North Cascades National Park Complex boundary). The North Cascades National Park Service Complex Headquarters and Public Information Center is operated jointly with the Mt. Baker District of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and North Cascades Institute. Exhibits: Relief map of the park and adjacent national forests. Available Facilities: Information desk. Sales area with books, maps, videos, and other items. (updated Jun 2020)

• 3 North Cascades Visitor Center, Newhalem (off North Cascades Highway (State Route 20), just behind Newhalem Creek Campground). Exhibits: Relief map of the park and surrounding area, exhibit room featuring multimedia exhibits on the park's natural and cultural history. Available Facilities: Theater featuring large format slide program and video presentation. Several short, accessible interpretive trails and restrooms. Information desk. Bookstore. (updated Jun 2020)

• 4 Wilderness Information Center, 7280 Ranger Station Rd, Marblemount. The Wilderness Information Center is the main backcountry permit office for North Cascades National Park and the adjacent Ross Lake and Lake Chelan National Recreation Areas. Backcountry permits are required for overnights in the park year-round and are available at an outdoor self-issue station when the center is closed during the winter season. Information desk. Sales area with books, maps, videos, and other items related to the national park and adjacent national forests. (updated Jun 2020)

Get in

The park is quite close to Bellingham, and a few hours from Seattle.

By car

WA-20, the North Cascades Highway, is the primary way to access the park. To the west, it joins Interstate 5 at Burlington. To the east, it passes through Winthrop to Eastern Washington.

This road closes during the winter between Ross Lake and Mazama, making much of the park inaccessible. The next best way around is via the Stevens Pass Highway, a several-hour detour.

There are a few other trailhead access routes from outside the park. These roads are not near park visitor services.

• WA-542, the Mt. Baker Highway, from Glacier. Most commonly used to access Mt. Shuksan.
• Cascade River Road from Marblemount. Most commonly used to access Sahale Arm, Cascade Pass, Boston Basin, and Eldorado.

By ferry

There is daily passenger ferry service (no cars) across Lake Chelan to Stehekin, in the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area. There are no roads connecting Stehekin to outside the park, so this is the only way to access the town without a full-day hike. The ferry route itself is scenic, and is a popular way to experience the park.

• 1 Lady of the Lake, 1418 W Woodin Ave. (updated Oct 2024)
• 2 Stehekin Ferry, 17100 S Lakeshore Rd. (updated Oct 2024)

By foot

The Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) is a well-known trail that extends along the West Coast of the United States, from Mexico to Canada. It enters the park near Stehekin (a popular resupply spot), crosses WA-20 at Rainy Pass, and continues to its terminus at the Canadian border.

The Boundary Trail, part of the larger Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail, traverses the park east-west.

Fees and permits

There are no entry fees for North Cascades National Park from WA-20 or Stehekin. Some of the trailheads from other remote access roads are in the surrounding National Forests, which require a parking pass, such as the Interagency Annual Pass or Northwest Forest Pass.

Campgrounds have variable fees, often dependent on the time of year and popularity of the campground.

Spending a night in the backcountry requires a permit, obtained at the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount or the Golden West Visitor Center in Stehekin. Many of the more popular backcountry camping and climbing zones require a permit assigned by lottery in March or April.

Get around

Most locomotion through the park is human powered, whether it be hiking, skiing, kayaking, or climbing.

The Wilderness designation of most of the park means that vehicle access is extremely limited. Non-hikers are limited to the view froms the highway, and a few side roads.

From Stehekin, a shuttle bus connects the ferry dock to the points of interest in the surrounding river valley.

See

Diablo Lake

North Cascades Highway

This highway is one of the great scenic drives of the Pacific Northwest, passing through jagged peaks, alpine meadows, and old-growth forest. In the west, the road looks out over the two crystalline reservoirs. Eastward from the crest, the surrounding mountains tower over the road.

• 1 Gorge Creek Falls. (updated Oct 2024)
• 2 Diablo Lake. (updated Oct 2024)
• 3 Ross Lake. A reservoir stretching to past the Canadian border, with a variety of boat-in campgrounds. (updated Oct 2024)
• 4 Rainy Pass. At 4855 feet, a wonderful viewpoint and a popular trailhead for the Pacific Crest Trail. (updated Oct 2024)
• 5 Washington Pass. At 5477 feet, the highest point on the highway (updated Oct 2024)

Stehekin

6 Stehekin is a community of a few hundred residents at the northwest tip of Lake Chelan. Only accessible by hike or ferry, it is one of the most remote settlements in the contiguous United States. When the national park was established, the community negotiated with the National Park Service to remain in place.

The main attraction is the dramatic scenery along the ferry ride from the south end of Lake Chelan. It's also the first/last supply point on the Pacific Crest Trail, so you will likely see resting thru-hikers during the summer and fall. There is a basic lodge, several campgrounds, and numerous trailheads.

A shuttle runs down the 10-mile Stehekin Valley Road between the ferry terminal and High Bridge, more-or-less hourly, stopping for most trailheads and points of interest.

• 7 Stehekin Old School. (updated Oct 2024)
• 8 Rainbow Falls. (updated Oct 2024)

Do

Cascade Pass

Hiking

North Cascades has over 400 miles of trails for all levels, connecting to even more terrain in the surrounding forests.

Popular day hikes:

• Cascade Pass to Sahale Arm. (updated Oct 2024)
• Thunder Creek. (updated Oct 2024)

Popular backpacking trips:

• Pacific Crest Trail. Especially the section from Rainy Pass to High Bridge and Stehekin (updated Oct 2024)

Cycling

• North Cascades Highway. A popular cross country bicycle route. In the spring, after the road is cleared of snow, the park allows cyclist-only access for about a week before opening to car traffic. (updated Oct 2024)
• Stehekin Valley Road. 10 flat miles with minimal car traffic, in one of the most remote regions of the country. (updated Oct 2024)

Boating

• Ross Lake offers canoeing and kayaking all the way to Canada.
• Lake Chelan allows all kinds of watercraft. Several rental shops operate out of Stehekin.

Climbing

Forbidden Peak and Boston Glacier

The North Cascades offer some of the most rugged alpine climbing in the lower 48. Many world class climbers have cut their teeth here. Many of these routes require technical rock and/or glacier traversal skills.

Fishing

The Stehekin River has a run of kokanee, salmon that live their entire lives in fresh water. Fly-fishing guide services operate out of Stehekin.

Buy

Services along the North Cascades Highway are extremely limited. Buy whatever you need in (or before) Concrete or Winthrop.

Stehekin has a small general store and gift shop.

Eat

Dining options along the North Cascades Highway are extremely limited, so pack a lunch! The nearest restaurants are in Marblemount and Winthrop.

Stehekin has exactly three dining options.

• 1 North Cascades Lodge. Hosts a canteen serving burgers and similar fare to hungry hikers. (updated Oct 2024)
• 2 Stehekin Pastry Company. Famous throughout the region for its massive cinnamon rolls, this bakery counts as one of Stehekin's major attractions. (updated Oct 2024)
• 3 Stehekin Valley Ranch. The only fine dining within at least 50 miles. Reservations required. (updated Oct 2024)

Sleep

Lake Chelan National Recreation Area

Lodging

On the North Cascades Highway, there are no hotels in or immediately outside the park itself. To the west, there's a variety of options in Sedro-Woolley, and a few motels and lodges in the small foothill towns. To the east, there's a variety of options in Winthrop.

The Stehekin Valley has two hotels. There are also a handful of private cabins and cottages for rent.

• 1 North Cascades Lodge (at Stehekin Landing). (updated Oct 2024)
• 2 Stehekin Valley Ranch (9 miles up the Stehekin Valley Rd). (updated Oct 2024)

Camping

There are a number of campgrounds throughout the park, administered by the National Park Service. Most offer potable water, dump stations, and firewood.

During the summer, all campsites should be reserved well in advance, though a handful of tent-only walk-up sites may be available. In the winter, some campsites close, and others become first-come-first-serve.

The following campgrounds are along the North Cascades Highway:

• 3 Colonial Creek North Campground (north side of WA-20 at milepost 130. Twenty miles (40 km) east of Marblemount, 63 miles (101 km) west of Winthrop). 41 sites. Camp in old growth forest at the base of the impressively glaciated Colonial Peak on the shore of Diablo Lake. Elevation 1200 feet. Fully accessible fishing pier and boat launch. Near Trailhead for Thunder Creek and Thunder Knob trails. $24 summer, $0 winter. (updated Oct 2024)
• 4 Colonial Creek South Campground (south side of WA-20 at milepost 130. Twenty miles (40 km) east of Marblemount, 63 miles (101 km) west of Winthrop). 93 sites (1 group site). Remote, yet busy campground nestled in old growth forest on the shore of Diablo Lake. Elevation 1200 feet. Fully accessible fishing pier and boat launch. Near Trailhead for Thunder Creek and Thunder Knob trails. $24 summer, $0 winter. (updated Oct 2024)
• 5 Goodell Creek Campground (south of WA-20 at milepost 119. Thirteen miles (21 km) east of Marblemount, 74 miles (119 km) west of Winthrop). 21 sites (2 group sites). Situated in lush, old growth forest on the banks of the Skagit River. Elevation 500'. Appropriate for tents and small RVs. Drinking water, garbage service, and vault toilets provided. No hook-ups or showers. Covered picnic shelter. Gathering firewood is prohibited, but firewood can be purchased outside of the park. Recreational Opportunities: Raft/kayak launch on the Skagit River. Fishing on the Skagit and tributaries. $20 summer, $0 winter. (updated Oct 2024)
• 6 Gorge Lake Campground (just outside Diablo village, north of WA-20 at milepost 126. Twenty miles (32 km) east of Marblemount, 67 miles (108 km) west of Winthrop). 8 sites. On the bank of Gorge Lake, next to the cascading Stetattle Creek. Elevation 900'. Primitive camp with no water. Vault toilets. Recycling and trash collection. Recreational Opportunities: Boat launch on Gorge Lake. Fishing on Gorge Lake. Hiking trails nearby. $20. (updated Oct 2024)
• 7 Newhalem Creek Campground (south of WA-20 at milepost 120, just west of Newhalem. Fourteen miles (23 km) east of Marblemount, 73 miles (117 km) west of Winthrop). 107 sites (2 group sites). On the banks of the Skagit River, near many natural and historic destinations. Elevation 500'. Recreational Opportunities: Several short walks and interpretive trails. Fishing on the Skagit River. $20 summer, closed winter. (updated Oct 2024)

The following campgrounds are near Stehekin. As you cannot drive to Stehekin, you will probably need to reach these by walking or riding the park shuttle.

• 8 Harlequin Campground (4.5 miles up the Stehekin Valley Rd). 7 sites (1 group site) $20 summer, $0 winter. (updated Oct 2024)
• 9 Lakeview Campground (five minute walk south of Stehekin Landing). 9 sites $20 summer, $0 winter. (updated Oct 2024)
• 10 Purple Point Campground (ten minute walk north of Stehekin Landing). 6 sites $20 summer, $0 winter. (updated Oct 2024)

Backcountry

Sleeping overnight in the park, outside of the developed campgrounds, requires a backcountry permit. Hikers are required to stay in designated backcountry campgrounds, which generally offer composting toilets.

Connect

There is poor or no cell phone coverage in most of the park, including the North Cascades Highway from Ross Lake to Mazama, and Stehekin. If you need assistance, you'll have to flag someone down.

The Stehekin ranger station offers slow (but better than nothing) wifi for $5 per day.

Stay safe

Fuel

On the North Cascades Highway, there is no gas for 70 miles between Marblemount and Mazama.

Backcountry

Always carry the 10 Essentials. A request to Search and Rescue takes several hours or longer to carry out, so make yourself comfortable.

Climbing is inherently dangerous. Do not attempt any routes you are not prepared for.

The Cascades see significant snow accumulation during the winter, which persists well into the summer. Avalanches trigger frequently, especially during warming periods. Refer to the Northwest Avalanche Center for current avalanche information.

The Cascades are habitat for black bears, and brown (grizzly) bears have also been reintroduced into remote parts of the park. There have been fewer than a dozen bear attacks in Washington in the last century, but hikers need to know about bear safety. Ask a park ranger for local advice.

Go next

• Mount Baker, one of the Cascade volcanoes, has a famous ski resort and provides views of Mt. Shuksan.
• Bellingham, a charming college town.
• Seattle and Vancouver are major cities just a few hours away.
• Washington's other great mountain parks, Mount Rainier National Park and Olympic National Park.

North Cascades National Park is on the North Cascade Loop itinerary.

Routes through North Cascades National Park

Burlington ← Sedro-Woolley ←

W  E

→ Winthrop → Omak