Zhengzhou (郑州; Zhèngzhōu) is a city on the south bank of Yellow River (Huang He) in China. It is the capital of Henan Province.

Zhengzhou

Understand

The name Zhengzhou comes from a city in the Sui Dynasty, but its actual location was in modern day Chenggao. During the Tang Dynasty, the name switched here. The area remained an unimportant backwater until it was selected for development by the Chinese Government after 1949. Strategically located in the center of the country, Zhengzhou is now a major transportation hub and rapidly growing city. To travelers, Zhengzhou is a convenient starting point to explore a series of Chinese cultural sites, like Kaifeng, Luoyang and Shaolin Temple.

Get in

By plane

• 1 Zhengzhou Xinzheng International Airport (CGO  ^IATA 郑州新郑国际机场) (about 30 km outside of town). It has one terminal, confusingly named Terminal 2. Terminal 1 is the old terminal that has been closed, but it could reopen if additional capacity is needed.  

An airport shuttle bus leaves from Zhengzhou Hotel, centrally located and costs ¥15.

A public bus runs from the airport to the Aviation Hotel (民航酒店 mín háng jiǔ diàn) on Jin Shui Road (金水路 jīn shuǐ lù). It costs ¥25.

Taxis to the airport will cost around ¥120-140. While the distance implies it should only be ¥60, you're charged for the round trip driving. Bargaining seldom helps as locals pay this price as well.

The airport is now served by the Zhengzhou Metro Line 2's Chengjiao (Suburban) extension. The first and last trains depart at 06:30 and 20:00 respectively. Additionally, mainline rail service connects the airport to Zhengzhou and Kaifeng (mostly to Zhengzhou East Station), at intervals fluctuating between approximately 30-60 minutes.

By train

Zhengzhou is China's biggest train hub; you can get here from nearly every major metropolitian area in China. There are several arrivals each day from Beijing (about 11 hours, or 5½ hours by high-speed rail), Guangzhou (about 18 hours), Xi'an (about 5 hours, or 2 hours by high-speed rail) and Shanghai (about 14 hours, or 6 hours by high speed rail). Trains arrive from other places less often. The Hanoi to Beijing train also stops here.

Be sure to clarify which of the two stations your train will arrive at or depart from:

• 2 Zhengzhou Station (郑州站) (in the main city centre). Serves all regular and some high-speed trains. 
• 3 Zhengzhou East Station (郑州东站) (on the east side of town in the Zhengzhou New Area). Exclusively serves high-speed trains. 45 min by metro from Erqi Square (二七广场). 

By bus

Across from the train station, you will find a long-distance bus station. Buses arrive regularly from almost anywhere in Henan province. Buses may be less comfortable than the trains, but are cheaper and you do not have to push and shove your way in and out of the train. You are guaranteed a seat but sometimes buses wait to fill up, rather than leaving at a set time, and be aware that long-distance buses may be sleepers rather than seated if the trip is very long.

Get around

The city's focal point is Erqi (February 7) Square (二七广场). This large public square comes alive at night, when an entire market fills the space with vendors and locals hanging out. From the square, several main streets fan out to different areas of the city.

Since Zhengzhou was handpicked to serve as a transportation hub - and does not have a very long history as a large city - the urban planning is more noticeable here than in other places of China. This means there is plenty of green space, tree-lined streets and logical arrangement to the city.

Zhengzhou is relatively spread out, but most sites are accessible by public bus, which costs ¥1 or ¥2 per ride - depending on whether or not there is air-conditioning, those with A/C being more expensive but usually less crowded.

By taxi

Taxi fares begin at ¥8 in the day, and ¥10 late at night (after 22:00), with each kilometer after the second costing ¥1.5. All taxis are metered but sometimes the drivers will try to cheat foreigners.

By metro

The Metro system has four lines:

• Line 1 runs east-west that connects Zhengzhou Station, Zhengzhou East Station and a few other points of interest. The first train leaves each terminus at 06:00 and the last at 22:00, at a 6-minute frequency.
• Line 2 is a north-south route, and runs to Nansihuan (with through services to Zhengzhou International Airport on the Chengjiao line). You can transfer to Line 1 at Zijingshan 紫荊山 station.
• Line 5 is the newest and functions as a loop line around the city center.
• Chengjiao line is a suburban metro line, starting from Nansihuan in Guancheng and ending in Xinzheng International Airport. There are through services through Line 2.

In 2019, the southern extension of Chengjiao line to Zhengzhou South railway station is expected to open, along with Line 14 which will serve the CCD area to the west of the city.

Fares are calculated by distance traveled, ranging from ¥2 (within 6 km) to ¥9. A journey shorter than 6 km costs ¥2; ¥1 is charged for every 7 km after 6 km, every 8 km after 13 km, and every 9 km after 21 km. Children under 130 cm may ride for free when accompanied by an adult. Single journey tickets can be bought from ticket vending machines at every station. Tap it on the sensor on the ticket gate when entering and insert it into a slot at the exit gate where the ticket is reclaimed.

Lv Cheng Tong (Chinese: 绿城通, literally: "Green City Pass") is a rechargeable contactless smart card which can be used on the metro and buses in Zhengzhou with discounts. A 5% discount is available for taking Zhengzhou Metro using Lv Cheng Tong compared to using single journey tickets.

See

Historical sites

• 1 Northern Song Dynasty Imperial Tombs (北宋皇陵), 1/84 Dufu Road, Gongyi City (巩义市杜甫路84附1) (take a bus or train to Gongyi City; the tombs are about 950 m west of the bus station and 2.8 km south of the train station; take bus # 6 from Gongyi Bus Station or bus # 2 from Gongyi Railway Station), ☏ +86 371 64356170. 08:00-18:00. Contains the remains of seven of the nine emperors of the Northern Song Dynasty. Zhao Hongyin (the father of Zhao Kuangyin, the dynasty's founding emperor) is also buried here as are dozens of concubines, government officials, military leaders and nobles. In total there are around 1000 tombs. Free. 
• 2 Shang Dynasty Wall Ruins (商城遗址, 商都遗址公园 Shang Capital Ruins Park), Intersection of Dongda Street and Chengdong Road, Guancheng Hui District (管城回族区东大街与城东路交叉口) (a few hundred metres east of Dongda Street Metro Station on Line 2; Bus # 206 and s162). Normally open 09:00-17:00. Opens at 06:00 during the first 15 days of Chinese New Year. You can see remants of the wall in the east side of town. Be warned: these mounds are not terribly impressive. Free. 
• 3 Yellow Emperor's Palace (黄帝宫, 云岩宫, Yunyan Palace, Yunan Temple,), Enjoyland International Tourist Resort, Xinmi City (新密市银基国际旅游度假区) (37 km southwest of Zhengzhou City, take bus # 563 from the Xinghua Street Bus Stop (兴华街公交站) about 600 m east of Jiliyan Metro Station on Line 5; get off at the second last stop and walk from there or catch a taxi; the site is about 1 km from the bus stop), ☏ +86 371 63111097. 08:00-18:00. The Yelllow Emperor is the mythological ancestor of all Chinese people and is traditionally believed to have ruled over China between 2698 and 2598 BC. The 'palace' is essentially a temple dedicated to the worship of the Yellow Emperor. It was first built during the 10th century AD and has been renovated several times over the centuries. Today, the site is part of the tourist resort known as Enjoyland. You will find it on the north side of the Yunyangong Reservoir, a few hundred metres southwest of Lehai Water World. ¥30. 

Landmarks

• 4 Er Qi (February 7) Memorial Tower (二七纪念塔), Er Qi Square, 230 Er Qi Road, Er Qi District (二七区二七路230号二七广场) (just outside Er Qi Square Station on Metro Line 1), ☏ +86 371 66966798, zzcceqg@163.com. 09:00-17:00, closed on Mondays. Museum inside a rather garish double pagoda that looms over February 7 Square. Inside there are exhibits explaining the city's development. Free.  
• 5 Ruyi Lake (如意湖; Ruyi Hu), Jinshui District (金水区) (Metro Line 1 to Exhibition Centre (会展中心) station). The centrepiece of the Zhengzhou New Area, surrounded by an impressive ring of modern apartments, malls and office towers, including the Henan Arts Centre, and crowned by a JW Marriott designed like a Chinese lantern. The area is lit up in a charmingly tacky fashion at night.  
• 6 Zhongyuan Tower (Fu Tower, 中原福塔), 1206 Hanghai East Road, Guancheng Hui District (管城回族区航海东路1206号) (Zhongyuan Tower Station, Metro Line 5), ☏ +86 371 60609199. 09:30-19:00. This 388-metre high tower is the 10th tallest tower in the world and has great views of the city. On the third and fourth floors of the observation deck, you can see the largest panoramic painting in the world. Standard ticket price is ¥98. Children under 1.2 metres in height and adults over 70 may enter for free. (updated Dec 2019)

Museums

• 7 Henan Geological Museum (河南省地质博物馆), 18 Jinshui East Road, Zhengdong New District (郑东新区金水东路18) (just outside the western exits of Nongye South Road on Metro Line 1; bus routes 43, 47, 115, 186, b38, k901, k902, s131 and y13), ☏ +86 371 68108999, zhanlanbu8359@163.com. 09:00-16:30, no tickets issued after 16:00, closed on Mondays (except public holiday Mondays). Contains rock specimens, and many fossils, including dinosaur fossils. Visitors are required to show their ID. Tickets are free. (updated Nov 2019)
• 8 Henan Museum (河南博物院), 8 Nongye Road, Jinshui District (金水区农业路8号) (in the north part of the city, 1 km west of Guanhutun Station on Metro Line 2; bus routes b2, b11, b18 and b102), ☏ +86 371 63511237, +86 371 63511239, hnbwybgs@126.com. 09:00-17:30, closes at 17:00 in winter, no tickets issued in last 60 minutes, closed on Mondays. This monolithic pyramid-shaped museum is worth a visit (the main building is under renovation as of August 2019, but the museum is still open). Learn about ancient civilizations in the area (most of which were not based in Zhengzhou, but nearby cities such as Kaifeng and Luoyang), and even see a dinosaur bone or two in the area. The museum is one of the three key museums in China along with one in Beijing. If you are into modern art, this is not the place for you. It generally has acceptable squat toilets on the first floor. There is an English audio tour you can rent, and there are cheapish lockers to store your stuff. Come to see old pottery from the Song dynasty, old bells, bronzes, things like that, but anything more recent does not have English captions. Don't miss the Ivory cabbage. Across the street is a coffee house that makes ok tea and coffee for about ¥30 and has comfortable chairs. Free.  
• 9 Henan Museum of Science and Technology (河南省科学技术馆), 53 Huayuan Road, Jinshui District (金水区花园路53号) (about 670 m south of Guanhutun Station on Metro Line 2; bus routes 9, 29, 32, 42, 47, 62, 63, 77, 93, 900, b32, y11, and y27), ☏ +86 371 65707500. Fascinating insight into Chinese children's education. Play on crumbling science exhibits, gawk at the garish space tributes and meet local families. It won't be like this forever. Construction of a new home for the museum is now well underway. ¥5. 
• 10 Yellow River Museum (黄河博物馆), Northeast corner of the intersection of Yingbin Road and Huayuan Road, Huiji District (惠济区迎宾路花园路交叉口东北角) (bus # 32, 79, 196, 263, 270, y11 and tourist bus 6; you can take bus # 32, 270 and tourist bus 6 from the northern teminus of Metro Line 2), ☏ +86 371 69556704, +86 371 69556715. March 16th to November 15th: 09:00-17:00. November 16th to March 15th: 09:00-16:30, no entry in last 60 minutes, closed on Mondays. A natural history museum focused on the Yellow River. Free.  
• 11 Zhengzhou Art Museum (郑州美术馆), 83 Ruida Road, High-Tech Manufacturing and Development Zone (高新技术产业开发区瑞达路83号) (bus # 31, 279, b2, b12, b27, b28 and y18; you can take bus no. 279 from Wutong Street Station on Metro Line 1), ☏ +86 371 67983163, hnzzmsg@163.com. 09:00-17:00, closed on Mondays (except public holiday Mondays). Free. (updated Nov 2019)
• 12 Zhengzhou Museum (郑州博物馆), 168 Songshan South Road, Zhongyuan District (中原区嵩山南路168号) (660 m southwest of Exit C of Lücheng Square Station on Metro Line 1; bus routes 46, 58, 84, 216, 254, 273, 298, 560, 919, b10, b13, s112, s123, s125 and s153), ☏ +86 371 67447301 (enquiries), +86 371 67438090 (extension 8088 group bookings). Summer: 09:00-17:00, winter: 09:00-16:30, closed on Tuesdays. Free. (updated Nov 2019)
• 13 Zhengzhou Science & Technology Museum (郑州科学技术官), 32 Songshan South Road, Zhongyuan District (中原区嵩山南路32号) (next door to the Zhengzhou Museum), ☏ +86 371 67970900. 09:00-17:00, closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, as well as the first four days of Chinese New Year. This local-level science museum is larger and more updated than the provincial-level Henan Museum of Science and Technology. However, this won't be the case for long, as the latter is getting a major upgrade. Free. (updated Nov 2019)

Parks and nature

• 14 People's Park (人民公园; Rénmín Gōngyuán, Renmin Park), 97 Er Qi Road, Er Qi District (二七区北二七路97号) (bus # 6, 21, 28, 34, 603, 906, 966 and y6 will take you to the east gate; bus # 8, 78, 91, 100, 302, b20, y21 and Tourist Bus 16 will take you to the west gate; Metro Line 3, which is due for completion in late 2020, will include a station near the west gate), ☏ +86 371 66222219. 06:00-21:00. Has a theme park inside with a quaint Ferris Wheel that is worth riding. Free.  
• 15 Yellow River Scenic Area (黄河风景区, 黄河风景名胜区), No. 1 Yellow River South Bank, Jiangshan Road, Huiji District (惠济区江山路黄河南岸1号) (take Tourist Bus 16 (游16路) from Zhengzhou Railway Station; you can also take a train, though the Yellow River Scenic Area Station (黄河景区站) is about 2 km from the scenic area), ☏ +86 371 68222228, hhscenic@gmail.com. 06:30-19:00 (June to September), 06:00-19:30 (October to May). Scenic area consisting of five scenic spots, Five Dragons Peak, Camel Mountain Range, Yueshan Temple, Stone Figures, and the Ancient City of Liubang and Xiangyu. ¥60.  
• 16 Zhengzhou Zoo (郑州市动物园), 103 Huayuan Road, Jinshui District (金水区花园路103号) (just outside Guanhutun Station on Metro Line 2), ☏ +86 371 65721245. 07:30-17:30 (winter and spring), 07:30-18:00 (summer and autumn). More depressing than it is impressive in any way. Some of their imported animals include turkeys and coyotes which might be interesting for a local but hardly for a foreigner. If you generally enjoy zoos, you may very well walk away sad at how the animals are cared for, or not in this case. Entry fee is ¥30, cable car tickets are ¥10 one-way.  

Do

There's relatively few things to do in Zhengzhou but a possible evening might involve eating at a Sichuan or Henanese restaurant, buying yourself a bottle of decent Dynasty wine, parleying with the local clientele, getting lazy, and rounding off the evening at a KTV bar.

• Museum Area. One thing worth knowing about is that the museum area is also the area of the 2 branches of government - federal and communist - so the area is much nicer. We are talking trees and some flowers along with a more neighborhood feel that might remind you of Shanghai. Do not expect wild nightclubs, but it is a more pleasant place to be if you are looking for a walk. Erqilou is fine, but a bit dirty, so see this other side of Zhengzhou if you get a chance. Also, some nice places to eat are in this area. 

Amusement parks

• 1 Century Fun Park (郑州世纪欢乐园), 1 Shihua Road, Guancheng Hui District (管城回族区石化路1号) (20-30 minutes away from Er Qi Square; about 1.4 km north of Qili River Station on Metro Line 5; bus routes 321, b15, s126, and s163), ☏ +86 371 63282288. 09:00-17:30 (March 15th-October 14th), 09:30-17:30 (October 15th-March 14th), 17:00-22:00 (extended opening hours on select days). It is quite a huge amusement park. Be aware most rides have a 90-kg limit for anyone using them, sometimes staff can be strict and refuse to let you ride even after you have paid to get in. ¥160 (adults), ¥80 (children between 1.2 and 1.5 metres in height), ¥50 (special price for entry after 17:00). Free entry is granted to children under 1.2 m in height and adults over 70. 
• 2 Enjoyland (银基国际旅游度假区), 1 Dahong Road, Liuzhai Town, Xinmi City (新密市刘寨镇大鸿路1号) (take bus # 563 from the Xinghua Street Bus Stop (兴华街公交站) about 600 m east of Jiliyan Metro Station on Line 5; get off at the 3rd or 2nd last stop), ☏ +86 4000 178 178. Lehai Water World is open 10:00-19:00 from May 25th to August 31st. Enjoy Snow & Ice World is open 10:00-18:00 on weekdays and 10:00-19:00 on weekends. The Yellow Emperor Palace Hot Springs is open from 10:00 to 22:00. As of December 2019, this park is still partly under construction. Sections that have opened include Lehai Water World (乐海水世界), Enjoy Snow & Ice World (银基冰雪世界), and the Yellow Emperor Palace Hot Springs (黄帝宫御温泉). More sections are expected to open in 2020. Tickets for Lehai Water World are ¥160. Tickets for Enjoy Snow & Ice World are ¥138. Tickets for the Yellow Emperor Palace Hot Springs are ¥280. Tickets are generally cheaper on 3rd-party websites. (updated Dec 2019)

Buy

Large department stores and international brands tend to be concentrated around Erqi (February 7) Square. The two major department stores are Kingbird (金博大) and Beijing Hualien (北京华联), which are next to each other. Both stores have supermarkets in their basements.

Some of the most interesting gifts can be purchased at the city's antique market. Most of the shop owners will have a calculator handy so you can bargain by typing in prices. Consider that you got a good deal if you pay half of what they originally quoted. The people are friendly but many of the shops sell fake antiques made to look old. Nevertheless there are interesting items that will decorate your walls or look great on a stand back at home. You can even impress your friends by telling them you bought them an antique from China.

Some of the small shops sell real antiquities. You'll know when you're buying one because the prices will rise dramatically from about ¥100 or less for fake goods to well over ¥5,000 for the real deal.

China will not let foreigners take antiques out of the country that are over 200 years old or possibly even more recent items depending on their cultural value.

Make sure you know where your wallet is at all times. There are some unsavory characters in the markets. This is, in fact, true of Zhengzhou in general, which has a reputation for pickpockets. Buses are especially risky. Keep your wallet in your front pocket.

Eat

Zhengzhou has a diverse array of fine Chinese cuisine. Its location at China's center means you can find almost any type of Chinese food here. The city is big enough to have a scattering of cosmopolitan restaurants, and while there are a number of imitation Korean, Japanese, Indian, and Western options about, you will do best to stick with Chinese food.

Budget

There is the usual assortment of dumpling shops and noodle joints on every street and back alley.

There is a good number of Sichuan restaurants, which makes sense considering the proximity to the Province of Spice.

You should not miss a special breakfast in Zhengzhou (hulatang), it is a special soup, a little spicy. You better go to Shunhelu where you will find the best hulatang in town.

Noodles, especially the mutton noodle (羊肉烩面; yangrouhuimian) and beef noodle (牛肉拉面; niuroulamian) are must-eat in Zhengzhou. There are three good yangrouhuimian restaurants with many locations, ask a taxi driver to take you the nearest one, and you will taste the best delicilous huimian in Zhengzhou:

• Xiaoji (萧记). 
• Heji (合记). 
• Jufengyuan (聚丰园). 

Other cheap eating places include:

• Night market in Erqi (February 7) Square. A good place for a snack and scenery. 

Mid-range

Chinese

Some of the finest Chinese restaurants are located on Jingsan Road (经三路). To find these restaurants, ask a taxi driver to take you to Xiaonanguo Restaurant and just look around. You will find a number of options about:

• Xiaonanguo (小南国), 经三路北16号. Excellent restaurant featuring regional dishes from all over China. 

Other Asian

Korean:

• Tudali (near the corner of Wenhua Road and Huanghe Road). Korean-style restaurant and bar. If you have an affinity for soju, this is the place for you. 

Muslim halal food is available all throughout Zhengzhou, with the banner on the entrance board saying Mata'am al muslimeen(Restaurant of the muslims) in Arabic. The food tastes delicious. Once you go and eat at these restaurants you just feel like coming back again, especially those yangrou chuars (lamb kababs) taste yummy:

• Muslim Restaurant, Erqi Square (Near the mosque and Beijing Hualian Mall). 

Western

• Crowne Plaza. A good place for Western cuisine with an Italian restaurant and a Western-style pub. It offers a buffet during dinner including Brazilian Rodizio and a desert bar. There is also a smattering of pizza and pasta joints called Cappuccino around the city. 
• New Island Coffee. Serves a plethora of dishes including waffles and fajita-style meat plate alongside a smattering of coffee and deserts and has several locations throughout Zhengzhou. 
• Cibo Coffee, Jinsan Road. Among the best Western restaurants in the city. You can order Chinese food by the plate or Western food like steak in set meals with many courses. Each plate is a small portion but overall the set meals are a great deal, for ¥75-200 you get many plates of very good food. Make sure to ask for the dishes to come one at a time for the best dining experience. 
• Toscana Cafe, Weilai Road at Wei Wu Road, Jin Jiang Garden, ☏ +86 371 - 65628899. 11:00-23:00. A very good Italian-style restaurant in North-eastern Zhengzhou. Considering the owner and staff have never been outside of Zhengzhou or China, it is pretty decent food, and not badly priced. Lasagna noodles are made in house and they have an American chef to try to help them become "more authentic". He updated the Caesar Salad dressing, and it is well worth a try! ¥40-200. 

Drink

There are bars around the city, but the best area for drinking is around the tree-lined Weiyi Road:

• Target Pub, On the southernmost block of Jingliu Road (经六路) near the corner of Weiyi Road (伟一路). Old ex-pat favorite. Lao Wang, who speaks great English, is the proprietor of this staple Zhengzhou dive bar. 
• Helen's, Just north of Target across the street. ¥6 Tsingtao for foreigners, popular 
• Tao Bar, Near the corner of Jin Shui Lu and Jing Qi Lu. A lively new bar opened near the corner Jin Shui Lu and Jing Qi Lu. 
• Bird Bar, On Jing Qi Lu, a ways off Jin Shui Lu, the main road. A small bar on Jing qi Lu. Laid-back mood, fooseball, etc. 

Other areas:

• Western Pub, Nongye Road (to the right of the Henan Provincial Museum). For an unusual drinking experience, consider this pub, located in a bunker-like concrete building. This place features a cabaret-style show with a mix of song, dance, and jokes. Unless you understand Chinese, it will be mostly incomprehensible, yet the experience will give you insight into Chinese drinking culture. The place is noisy, smoky, crowded, and occasionally bizarre. You can order half-a-dozen or so bottles of beer by the bucket. Try to get there early, around 19:00, as the show ends around 22:00 or 23:00. This building also houses one of Zhengzhou's movie theaters. 

Sleep

Budget

Zhengzhou is not a major backpacker stop, so there are few cheap lodgings in the city. That said, there are some hotels that offer real value for money if you are more than two people. As with most Chinese cities, there are several a bit run down hotels to be found near the train station. These might be your cheapest options. Most likely English is not spoken but you can get a room for ¥50 or even cheaper if there are two people splitting a bill for a double room. Bargain, especially if you are staying more than one night.

• Home Inn, Jiefang Road (解放路) (short walk from Erqi Square). This is your best bet on a budget hotel. It is a relatively new chain with several locations around town. This listing is the most centrally located. Another good location is on Zhengyi Street (政一街) near Jinshui Road (金水路). The rooms are super-clean with tile and laminate floors and a fresh coat of paint. Complimentary high-speed Internet hookups are installed in all the rooms. A standard going for around ¥180, breakfast buffet for ¥10. 
• White Dove Hotel (郑州白鸽宾馆), 中原区中原西路183号, ☏ +86 371 67621616, fax: +86 371 65319618. Discounted rates for doubles start just above ¥100. 

Mid-range

• Home Hotel. Chain of business hotels scattered about the city. Their rooms are clean and have a style that invokes a SoHo loft more than a Chinese hotel. 
• Jinjiang Inn, 92 Hongqilu. Double rooms have one large and one standard bed. There is another branch on 46 Zhonghanghailu. ¥138-159. 
• Guangzhou Hotel, Erqi Road (Near the corner of Jinshui Road). Caters to business travelers. Doubles start at around ¥240 with a discount. 
• Erqi Hotel (in the main square). This hotel might be a little loud at night. Full service rooms are about ¥250, budget rooms with shared bathroom for ¥150 (can be hard to get). 
• Londoo Hotel, Erqi Street (close to Erqi Square). Massive Chinese-style business hotel with well-worn carpets and paper-thin walls, but otherwise functional. A discounted standard room goes for ¥190. 

Splurge

• Sheraton Grand Zhengzhou Hotel, No.33 Jinshui East Road, Zhengdong New District Zhengzhou, Henan 450046 China (Nongye South Road (Zhengzhou Metro Line 1), Exit 3), ☏ +86 371 6063 6666, Sheraton.Zhengzhou@sheraton.com. New hotel. The rooms are well appointed, and the buffet breakfast spread has good reports. (updated Sep 2017)
• JW Marriott Hotel Zhengzhou, Millennium Royal Plaza, No 2 Central Business District, Zhengdong New District, Zhengzhou Henan, 450018 China (Exhibition Center station (Zhengzhou Metro Line 1), exit C2 - 5-10 minute walk), ☏ +86 371 8882 8888. A glitzy joint around Ruyi Lake and near facilities such as an exhibition centre, art museum and shopping mall. (updated Sep 2017)

Go next

Henan awaits:

• Kaifeng is a laid-back town about 90 minutes to the east of Zhengzhou. Enjoy ancient temples and an escape from Chinese skyscrapers. Sizeable night market comes to life in the evenings too. Kaifeng was the capital of several dynasties before it slid into irrelevance the last 200 years. Buses leave every half hour from Zhengzhou central bus station (90 min). Alternatively, there are quite a few trains in the morning and evening to Kaifeng station (45 min) from Zhengzhou station. High speed trains depart half hourly to Songchenglu station from Zhengzhou East.
• Another great city nearby by is the ancient capital of Luoyang, home to the Longmen Grottoes. The city is worth a look, with an interesting old section and easy walking downtown. It's about three hours by bus, which leave Zhengzhou every hour or so. An express - the "elephant bus" or kuai che - costs ¥40. One train in the morning departs from Zhengzhou station straight to Luoyang Longmen station (45 min) very close to the grottoes.
• Yuzhou is a small and relatively undeveloped city, off the main rail network, but well worth a visit to see the Jun Royal Kiln Museum and to get an insight into life in Henan off the tourist trail. One and a half hours by bus, and very walkable once you get there.

Routes through Zhengzhou

Beijing ← Xinxiang ←	N  S	→ Wuhan → Changsha
Xi'an ← Luoyang ←	W  E	→ Kaifeng → Xuzhou