Arthur's Pass National Park
Arthur's Pass National Park is a major national park in the heart of New Zealand's South Island. The park is a popular stop from the TranzAlpine train and has hikes both long and short. Arthur's Pass village is a small village within the park and is the location of the train station, motels, cabins and a few places to eat.
Understand
History
Arthur’s Pass National Park was established in 1929 and was New Zealand’s third national park and the first one in the South Island.
Arthur's Pass was first surveyed in 1864 by Arthur Dudley Dobson to establish which pass was most suitable to build a road to the Goldfields of 'West Canterbury' in Hokitika. The road was built and opened in 1865 with stage coaches operating until 1923 when the Otira rail tunnel was opened. It has a significant place in the history of New Zealand as the rail tunnel was the longest tunnel in the British Commonwealth when it was opened.
The rail line and road to Arthur's Pass were considered to be major accomplishments which opened up the west coast of New Zealand to settlement.
Landscape
The landscape is typical of the Southern Alps of New Zealand.
Forests
On the east side of the main divide (which divides streams and rivers flowing into the Tasman Sea or the Pacific Ocean), the predominant forest cover is made up of different varieties of beech. The most common is mountain beech, but silver, red and black beech can also be found. The west side of the main divide predominantly has mixed podocarp forest, on account of the heavier rainfall.
Mountains
The mountains are primarily composed of graywacke and rise approximately 1,600–2,000 metres above sea level. The highest peak is Mount Murchison at 2,400 m. The mountains receive heavy snowfalls in winter, but are generally snow-free in summer, apart from small glaciers, such as the Crow, on the flanks of Mount Rolleston.
Rivers
Several large rivers flow out of Arthur's Pass. On the eastern side of the divide, they tend to become large alluvial rivers. The best, and largest, example of this is the Waimakariri. On the western side, the rivers tend to be more rugged and have a larger number of gorges. Travel through these river systems can be very difficult.
Climate
Located in the mountains of the South Island, Arthur's Pass can be colder than elsewhere in New Zealand due to its high elevation. However, this should not stop you from visiting the park any time of the year, as long as you are adequately prepared for the temperature. In the spring and autumn, mornings and evenings can be brisk. Winters can be a wonderland of snow.
Get in
By train
- Main article: Rail travel in New Zealand
The Tranzalpine train is considered to be one of the most beautiful train rides in the world, and offers daily trips to Arthur's Pass. The train begins its journey early morning departing Christchurch, and arrives at Arthur's Pass mid-morning. After Arthur's Pass, the train continues to Greymouth on the west coast.
It is possible to make a day trip of Arthur's Pass if coming from Christchurch. The train drops you off around 10:15AM, then continues on to Greymouth, then turns around and heads back to Arthur's Pass around 4:15PM and back to Christchurch. Best way to see Arthur's Pass if your time is limited; however an overnight of at least one night is recommended.
By bus
- Atomic Travel departs Christchurch 8.30AM and arrives in Arthur's Pass about 10:35AM and can be caught to continue on to Greymouth. They can be caught at 3PM to Christchurch, arriving Christchurch about 5:15PM.
- West Coast Shuttle departs Greymouth at 8AM and arrives in Arthur's Pass about 9:30AM and can be caught to travel to Christchurch (via Christchurch airport 11:30AM). From Christchurch at 3PM (Christchurch airport 3:15PM) and arrives in Arthur's Pass about 5:15PM and can be caught to travel to Greymouth arriving at 7PM
By car
State Highway 73 goes through Arthur's Pass. The road is majestic and beautiful but can be test of nerves for the driver. Particularly in winter, when snow and ice may cover the road and chains are recommended at times. Consider taking the train or coach to Arthur's Pass instead.
Fees and permits
Entry to the park and village is free.
Get around
Arthur's Pass is a small village built along Highway 73. You can easily walk to anywhere in town. Highway 73 is one of only three crossings to New Zealand's west coast. Vehicles on the highway drive at speed, so when walking please stay on the pavements (sidewalks).
See
- The Arthur's Pass Visitor's Centre is larger than most i-SITEs in New Zealand. In addition to information about the hikes and safety, it has museum-quality displays about the pioneers who settled the area as well as dioramas showing the surrounding mountains and shelters.
- The Arthur's Pass train station has an elaborate mural in its waiting room.
- Mountains, rivers, forests – even if you are not a hiker, there are several short walks right around the town that afford great views of the surrounding scenery.
Do
There isn't much else to do in Arthur's Pass besides Hiking. Starting from the village you will find everything from one hour hikes to the Devil's Punchbowl falls, to challenging overnight hikes.
If it is nice summer weather and you are fit enough to hike up 1100m height over rough terrain, then go up Avalanche Peak, which has the only marked large mountain loop track (6-8 hours return, up Avalanche Peak Track, down Scott's Track). On the summit you will have a great view and also probably meet Keas waiting for you, trying to make friends and steal your food.
Ask the i-site about the weather and which track they would recommend you.
Buy
Try to bring what you need from outside of Arthur's Pass. The village is quite small, the only shop is at the Arthur's Pass Cafe and Store, which offers a small selection of groceries and other supplies for about three times the price you would pay in a Christchurch supermarket. Besides that the i-site sells dried camping food.
- Possum fur pelts. The visitor's centre sells fur pelts made from brushtail possums – an invasive, introduced pest in New Zealand. Buying them helps support small-scale hunters and trappers who control the population of destructive possums without the use of poisons.
Eat
There are three options for eating in Arthur's Pass National Park village.
- Arthurs, ☏ +64 3 318-9236. 350 m west of the Arthur's Pass Visitor's Centre. Good restaurant and bar. Arthur's also has powered campervan sites and a B&B.
- 1 Wobbly Kea Cafe and Bar, ☏ +64 3 318-9101. 300 m west of Visitor's Centre. Good restaurant and bar, nice fireplace, friendly atmosphere. Home made pastries.
- 2 Arthur's Pass Store and Cafe, ☏ +64 3 318 9235. 300 m west of Visitor's Centre across from the Wobbly Kea. Store has some basic groceries especially for camping or hiking, also has sandwiches, soup and ice cream. Pay internet access available. (The store closes at 6PM).
Some B&Bs also offer breakfast or other meals; make arrangements with your host.
Drink
All of the restaurants listed above are fully licensed to serve drinks. The Wobbly Kea has happy hours on Tuesday and Friday nights.
Sleep
Camping
There is a DoC campground just across the road from the Visitor's Centre. Suitable for both campervans and tents, there are grassy spots to pitch a tent. There is an indoor shelter with cold running water and bathrooms. $6 a night.
Lodging
- 1 The Sanctuary Backpackers, ☏ +64 3 942 2064. To the left as you drive in to the town from Greymouth. This is an owner-away accommodation run on an honesty box system. Sleeps eight in the main hall (mattresses and pillows provided, sleeping bags required), and has a kitchen and lounge attached. Internet is consistent in price and speed with place down the road. Either ring ahead or when you get there, pick up the phone under the balcony. Beds are $30 a night.
- 2 Arthur's Pass Alpine Motel. Nice motel with a few rooms and en suite cabins. 400 m towards Christchurch from the Visitor's Centre, not far from the train station. Friendly owner, cheap internet available. from $130.
- Lake Grace Hutel (Howard's Hut), liddi@slingshot.co.nz. A private lodge in the deep mountains of the Lake Grace area of Arthur's Pass National Park. It has been refurbished and includes a flush toilet, shower and electricity.
- Arthur's Pass Village B&B Homestay. 200 m towards Christchurch from the Visitor's Centre, not far from the train station. Friendly owners.
- 3 YHA Arthur’s Pass Mountain House, ☏ +64 3 318 9258. 24 bed hostel, 2 motel units and two 8-bed railway cottages from the 1900s. bed from $30, room from $75.
- Otira Stagecoach Hotel, SH 73, Otira (14 km west of Arthur's Pass), ☏ +64 3 738 2890. A building from the 1865 filled with antiques. Gollum sits atop the building, and Gandalf guards the pigpen. Meals served (a variety of burgers with chips $16, fish and chips $20), full bar. Double with shared bath $105.
Stay safe
Amongst both the tramping and the permanent Arthur's Pass communities, it is felt that the combination of harsh alpine terrain and easy accessibility combine to contribute to the high death and injury rate in this National Park.
The mountains around Arthur's Pass contain some very challenging terrain. The marked day walks in the park, all easily accessible from the Arthur's Pass village car parks, involve vertical ascents of around 1000 metres (3000 feet) and will include several hours well above the tree line. The peaks are highly exposed to the weather, the tracks are often very steep (steep enough to require the walker to pull themselves up with their hands in some places) and are often marked only by poles strung across a rocky landscape. Below the tree line the bush is dense and thick. In common with many alpine areas the weather is subject to frequent and sudden change. There are frequent bluffs and cliffs and most creeks running down the mountains tumble over waterfalls in one place or another. Further, there are a number of harder routes within the park that require a high level of mountaineering skill and the use of ropes and other alpinist equipment. In short, safely traversing this terrain requires at least a moderate level of experience, knowledge and equipment since it is true 'back country'.
Arthur's Pass National Park is also within a few hours' driving time of Christchurch, the largest city in the South Island of New Zealand. This easy access for visitors to NZ, as well as the immediate access to the mountain trails from the village (unlike many other parts of the Southern Alps where getting to the mountains requires a day or more tramp over more gentle terrain, which tends to dissuade the less prepared tramper) appears to lead to larger numbers of unprepared people overstepping their abilities and getting into mortal peril. Common scenarios are: getting caught above the tree line in bad weather with insufficient clothing or food and then being incapacitated by hypothermia; attempting a climb without either the required knowledge or equipment and then becoming stuck on a ledge or cliff, unable to climb back or continue on due to the steepness of the terrain, often then facing problems of bad weather or hypothermia; attempting a climb that really requires knowledge and specialised equipment that are both sadly lacking, with an attempted manoeuvre then resulting in a serious or fatal fall; becoming lost or disoriented, often due to change of weather, losing the trail or attempting to take a short cut and then suffering a serious or fatal fall.
If you are walking alone or just want to be careful, fill out a ticket stating your route and itinerary and leave it at the office in town. Wardens check these nightly. You do, of course, have to return to remove it on schedule to prevent a search and rescue. It's usually best to let someone else know as well.
If you plan on doing substantial overnight hiking around Arthur's Pass or elsewhere in New Zealand you should consider investing in a radio beacon transmitter. The Arthur's Pass visitor's centre has information about renting or buying a transmitter as well as instructions on how to use them.
Avalanches can be a concern during winter hikes. Familiarize yourself with avalanche safety and warning signs if you are hiking high in the mountains in winter.
A police station is located about 450 m east from the visitor's centre.
Connect
The Arthur's Pass post office is probably one of the world's tiniest staffed post offices, with service hours from 10AM to 10:30AM daily.
Arthur's Pass Web Scape is a non-commercial community site which lists all information about Arthur's Pass in one place. Highly recommended.